Best speaker wire

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Comments

  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,408
    DSkip wrote: »
    Have we ever really heard what that $1,000 stereo amp was capable of before jumping on the $4,000 one?

    This is exactly what my thoughts were. Try to get the greatest potential out of the equipment I have at a price that won't break me.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,627
    mrloren wrote: »
    I like doing blind test on people.

    When I got my AQ type 4, I hooked on of the warehouse speakers up. people said the left speaker sound different or better.

    When I change wires or interconnects at home I only do one at a time. Once the kids say something then I know there is change. "Dad one speaker sounds better than the other" All the time it's been the one with the change.

    Best one was when I pulled the brass jumpers installing speaker wire jumpers. That change jumped out at everyone.

    Well I guess you have solved the multi decade debate on every audio forum.
    Why do you think there is so much debate about this topic?

    It is for sure not cause some people are not wanting to hear a difference or are stubborn.....and just like to argue.

    If what you claim is true, there would be no debate at all, everyone would easily recognize this immediate change and it would not be the almost religious debate it has become over many years.

  • codycatalist
    codycatalist Posts: 2,662
    edited December 2018
    Everything matters in this game. Just a matter of proper prioritization, I didn't upgrade my cables until I upgraded my pre and amp to something worth better cables. Even before that I upgraded my crossovers and source.

    Granted i'm a budget guy so I just went with 10g Belden 5T00UP but I definitely had an increase of bass quality and tactile sensation with the switch. I'll eventually go into better cables (Looking at the Zu ebay store) but I KNOW more goes into the thought of proper cables than it's expensive and works for someone else.

    I've learned to take my time.
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
    "Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
    "Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
    "Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited December 2018
    DSkip wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    audioluvr wrote: »
    So what would be the best step up from my monster Z series for $250-300 with the gear I have in my sig?

    I can't see your sig, post it up.

    Also, it's not just the gear, but the sound your looking for. The music type you listen to. Sometimes, and more often than not, better cables have a habit of exposing the weak link in your system.

    You like a more laid back sound...more forward ? More dynamic....softer top end or brighter ? Punchy mid bass ? See what I'm getting at ?

    I don't subscribe to this theory at all. I used to, but not anymore. 'Tuning' your system should be done in the active components IMO. A good cable should do what everyone claims - pass the signal. What I look for in a cable is a full range of sound with little to no bloat at any particular frequency and the ability to recreate a soundstage and present the music with as little interference as possible. OFC cable is fine for most but as you move up the grain can be heard. OCC eliminates this quite well and the loss of grain can be heard throughout the entire frequency range.

    Getting a good baseline of cables allows you to hear what your gear is actually capable of. Just as important is the room and eliminating some if its influences. Much like cables, you don't 'tune' a room with treatments. You eliminate its impact.


    My interesting statement that I might have shared before: I was at a client's house a few months ago and compared the $4,500 MastersounD Dueventi to the $11,000 Evo 300B. The Evo is clearly the better amplifier, but what impressed me was that with the $3,000 Platinum Eclipse interconnect, the Dueventi got VERY close to the Evo 300B with the $700 Silver Eclipse. If someone were willing to drop $7,500, they could get damn near the same performance as the $11,700 package. Of course, putting the Platinum Eclipse on the Evo raises that performance to a new level, but that isn't the point.

    The point is that this trial led me to believe that even true cable enthusiasts might not put full stock in how much the cables influence the sound. Have we ever really heard what that $1,000 stereo amp was capable of before jumping on the $4,000 one? In turn, did those $2,500 speakers ever showcase their full potential before we got the $10,000 pair? It's an interesting conundrum.

    I'm not advocating going out and dropping $30k on cables and $10k on equipment, but I AM advocating that putting a price tag on cables vs. what you have spent on the equipment (like 10%) is out of whack to me. Most people would rather spend $7,000 on an amp and $500 on a cable, but you might get vastly improved results spending $4,500 on an amp and $3,000 on a cable. This is an idea that I've been reluctant to share because it goes so against the grain of mainstream cable spending theory. It is so much easier to look at an active component and see value vs a passive one, even when one realizes how much impact said passive components can influence the sound.

    Normally, I don't fully quote long posts, but this is well written, and so true. Good job.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,526
    DSkip wrote: »
    Maybe not. I do use bi-wire cables on single-wired speakers frequently though. I use a set of bananas on one pair of wires and spades on the other.

    I didn't realize bi-wire cables could still be used with speakers with a single set of binding posts. Thanks for the tip.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,420
    Clipdat wrote: »
    DSkip wrote: »
    Maybe not. I do use bi-wire cables on single-wired speakers frequently though. I use a set of bananas on one pair of wires and spades on the other.

    I didn't realize bi-wire cables could still be used with speakers with a single set of binding posts. Thanks for the tip.

    Yep only way is if like skips or both spades. If they are both nanners then you may have problems.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,901
    Your talking apples and oranges Skip. I'm talking to the majority of members here, some who are not so sure about a cables worth to begin with.

    The super high end stuff is another animal all together, and area in audio most of us will never see in our lifetime. We do share some of the same thoughts though, so we are not too far apart.

    Like you'll never know what a piece is capable of until you get the proper cabling. I've seen way too often, on this forum too, people who kick a piece to the curb while still running Monster cables. That was my point to the post anyway.

    Most here are buying gear in the under 3k range. I would never suggest someone spend upwards of 50% of the cost on cables, but heck....they are sure welcome to.
    If someone bought a piece for 3k, and wanted to hook up 2k IC's, knock your socks off if your wallet allows. That's not reality though, on this forum, for most members. Depending on the gear, there is a certain law of diminishing returns with cables.

    Like it or not, cables do tune a system, they will impart a certain flavor, provide a certain presentation to the stage in many different areas, even so called neutral ones. If they didn't, we'd have far fewer choices in cabling.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • gdphoto
    gdphoto Posts: 182
    The 15 foot MIT ATV3's I mentioned earlier on ebay for $175 were sold before I made up my mind on what to get. It must of fell through for the seller because they were re-listed for $169. I just bought them. Can I shorten them to the 10 feet that I need, or just leave them as is?
    Hafler DH220 Power amp Recapped
    Hafler DH110 Preamp Recapped
    Hafler Digital FM Tuner
    Virtue Audio M1 Piano CD Player
    Technics SL-1210-MK5 with a Rega Exact Cartridge
    Polk SDA1c's(Rebuilt XO's by Ben) RDO194 Tweeters
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,420
    gdphoto wrote: »
    The 15 foot MIT ATV3's I mentioned earlier on ebay for $175 were sold before I made up my mind on what to get. It must of fell through for the seller because they were re-listed for $169. I just bought them. Can I shorten them to the 10 feet that I need, or just leave them as is?

    Leave them as is. Coil them up if you have to but do not muck them up by cutting. Very nice cable by the way.
  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,190
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    gdphoto wrote: »
    The 15 foot MIT ATV3's I mentioned earlier on ebay for $175 were sold before I made up my mind on what to get. It must of fell through for the seller because they were re-listed for $169. I just bought them. Can I shorten them to the 10 feet that I need, or just leave them as is?

    Leave them as is. Coil them up if you have to but do not muck them up by cutting. Very nice cable by the way.
    8qla5lb971pc.jpg

    :smiley:
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,420
    DK proved that wrong, and yes i get what you're sayin Herm. B)B)
  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,190
    Make him do a Figure 8 with the cables and everyone will be happy and harmonious for the holidays.
  • gdphoto
    gdphoto Posts: 182
    Just so I'm clear, don't coil them. Instead do a figure of 8.
    Hafler DH220 Power amp Recapped
    Hafler DH110 Preamp Recapped
    Hafler Digital FM Tuner
    Virtue Audio M1 Piano CD Player
    Technics SL-1210-MK5 with a Rega Exact Cartridge
    Polk SDA1c's(Rebuilt XO's by Ben) RDO194 Tweeters
  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
    Serpentine...........Flat on the floor.

    Coiling a cable is how you make an inductor (same as an inductor in your crossover). Even if the effect is theoretical or inaudible you don't want to do it.

    Or maybe you can try a coil or two to "tune" your cables. I have heard stranger speaker cable voodoo.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,420
    edited December 2018
    delkal wrote: »
    Serpentine...........Flat on the floor.

    Coiling a cable is how you make an inductor (same as an inductor in your crossover)

    In order to create inductance the signal must go only ONE way. In speaker cables you have signals going two ways which cancel such effect. @DarqueKnight in a thread proved that coiling a cable did no such thing.
    If you have the room don't do it, but tossing a one or two loops to take up slack will not in any way adversely affect the sound.

    @Hermitism was just making fun of me and joking that the fugure 8 would make the world a happy place.

    Look place the cables how it works for you. You're not coiling up 25' of cable you are taking up 5' of slack so lets just say the coil in all intents and purposes is 2 1/2 ft. big whoop not enough to induct anything even if in fact it did

    Carry on.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    I believe that cables do make a difference. However, if you’re going to spend mega $$$$ on cables, I think a better place to put that money is into room treatment. Once the room has been treated, it makes perfect sense, to me, to upgrade your cables. I think that the room treatment will have an immediate and noticeable effect on the sound of your setup. I’m not saying that cables won’t do the same thing, but I think the room treatment is very important.

    For clarification, I have no room treatment because I live in an apartment and I’m limited in what I can do here. But, I’ve heard setups where the room interaction was very carefully measured and room treatment was purposefully placed. The difference is huge. GIK can help you map out your room and they’ll make suggestions based on what you want and what you can afford.

    Proper speaker placement is an even better place to start. That costs nothing but your time and effort.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,901
    DSkip wrote: »
    Tony, you do realize I still use $680 speaker cables with my system right? My statement still stands regardless of price point. If you are having to use cables to tune a system the. You have things out of whack to begin with.

    Before I was a dealer I used a full PNF loom. I tried multi thousand dollar cables and none of them provided a better experience because they all imparted their own flavor. The PNF was an excellent value but you never see them for sale since people are realizing how good they are for the money. What finally got me out of those was the Wireworld Equinix loom. The loom I used at the time was under four figures for interconnects and speaker cables.

    If you are tuning your system with cables then you’re going to have to treat it like any other component and risk having to change them if you get any new piece in the mix. The Wireworld stuff really wins me over due to the fact that it sounds good in most systems and never sounds bad. You’ll get a more honest evaluation of your system and not get fooled by a masking of your cables.

    It’s absurd to say that it works at a higher level but will not work at a lower level. I truly believe that you build a baseline for your cables and then you can really explore the component side of things. The Equinox line is where I try to coach people to go because it sets that baseline. Is it perfect? No, but you can spend a hell of a lot more time, energy, and money to find something to better it and their impact won’t be changed when a new component is added to the mix.
    DSkip wrote: »
    Tony, you do realize I still use $680 speaker cables with my system right? My statement still stands regardless of price point. If you are having to use cables to tune a system the. You have things out of whack to begin with.

    Before I was a dealer I used a full PNF loom. I tried multi thousand dollar cables and none of them provided a better experience because they all imparted their own flavor. The PNF was an excellent value but you never see them for sale since people are realizing how good they are for the money. What finally got me out of those was the Wireworld Equinix loom. The loom I used at the time was under four figures for interconnects and speaker cables.

    If you are tuning your system with cables then you’re going to have to treat it like any other component and risk having to change them if you get any new piece in the mix. The Wireworld stuff really wins me over due to the fact that it sounds good in most systems and never sounds bad. You’ll get a more honest evaluation of your system and not get fooled by a masking of your cables.

    It’s absurd to say that it works at a higher level but will not work at a lower level. I truly believe that you build a baseline for your cables and then you can really explore the component side of things. The Equinox line is where I try to coach people to go because it sets that baseline. Is it perfect? No, but you can spend a hell of a lot more time, energy, and money to find something to better it and their impact won’t be changed when a new component is added to the mix.

    I think your missing my interpretations Skip. We don't intentionally use cables to tune our systems, it just works out that way. I agree, getting a baseline with a certain brand of cables is a good idea. That is why once you do, you simply move up within a brands series.

    It all comes back to "everything matters". We switch out gear because of the sound differences it will bring to the table within ones system, we do the same with cables. Many here will attest to the fact that certain cables sound great in one system, but crap in another. Boils down to synergy, and if your the type to keep switching gear in and out, doesn't matter if your baseline is good, the synergy may be bad. Is that the gear or the cabling ? One never knows until they try different things, right ?

    So sticking to one brand, can result in one flipping more gear than is necessary too. To me, it's easier and more cost effective to flip cables around before flipping 3k+ pieces of gear. Make sense ? One has to know what a certain piece is capable of first, within their own system to truly understand if it's going to be a keeper or not.

    For the record, I never said what works at a higher level, won't work at a lower level. Without knowing exactly the scenario in question, one is not going to put 2-3k in cables on a 500 buck HT receiver and RTIA1'S and experience the same jump in SQ as higher end components/Speakers would allow to happen.

    There's a lot of real estate in cables between low and high end. Enough so that anyone can system match to their preferences, realize jumps in SQ, and not spend used car kind of money.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,901
    edited December 2018
    Let me expand a bit further.

    Lets say your system is lacking some mid or deep bass. Lets say you have your certain baseline of cabling you like. Which component are you going to flip to get better bass, the cdp, the pre amp, the amp, maybe even the speakers, better dac ?

    See how that expense can add up, when sometimes a simple cabling change can do the trick. I'm not saying it always will, but in my world we start with the cheapest fix first then move up to the more expensive by flipping gear.

    ….and if changing the cables did work in bringing more bass to your system, then boom....you just tuned your system with cabling.

    ….and again, cabling isn't the only way to tune a system either. Spikes, weighted stands, placement, room treatments....everything will matter. We all tune our systems using one technique or another, sometimes multiple ways, cables is just one way.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,666
    Cables, just like the rest of a rig, can and should be used to tune the sound to your liking. After all, they are as much a component as the rest.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,007
    DSkip wrote: »
    Using cables as tuning devices will diminish stereophonic qualities or details in most cases. While it's easier to swap cables, you are admittedly altering the signal with components and detracting from the impact your actual components make in the system.

    When I got the Wilson Watt Puppy I also got a pair of Transparent Reference cables with them. It was a great match but I still preferred the Equinox over the $6,000 retail cables. Why? Even though the sound was smoother with the Transparent cables, I could hear the way they shaped the signal and I didn't like it. It was unnatural and seemed to eliminate space between images even though it really didn't.

    Cables should be absolutely transparent and I still firmly believe you should find cables in your price point that are as Transparent and unfiltering as you can get. If you accomplish that and still have issues with the sound, you are hearing a poorly matched system. I've found the shortcomings of components to be much easier to overcome than the shortcomings of flavored cables.
    I completely agree.

    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,007
    K_M wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    I like doing blind test on people.

    When I got my AQ type 4, I hooked on of the warehouse speakers up. people said the left speaker sound different or better.

    When I change wires or interconnects at home I only do one at a time. Once the kids say something then I know there is change. "Dad one speaker sounds better than the other" All the time it's been the one with the change.

    Best one was when I pulled the brass jumpers installing speaker wire jumpers. That change jumped out at everyone.

    Well I guess you have solved the multi decade debate on every audio forum.
    Why do you think there is so much debate about this topic?

    It is for sure not cause some people are not wanting to hear a difference or are stubborn.....and just like to argue.

    If what you claim is true, there would be no debate at all, everyone would easily recognize this immediate change and it would not be the almost religious debate it has become over many years.
    There is so much debate on this topic because of marketing and about 90% of cables made that are so called AUDIOPHILE grade stuff is all ****. Now that's not to say some companies don't build quality cables which are required for a system to perform properly. But there is a point when using the rarest materials and the highest end technics don't return any benefits or we would all be seeking them. Why would anyone want who gives any crap want to put cables in ones system that can't perform the task?
    Most people on forums have no real world experience with cables. They didn't spend the time to learn if cable a is better then cable b. Most peoples goal is to get the best quality cables at the cheapest price. Not to mention most of them are not mental enough to spend countless hours learning about cables and what are the differences are. And then finally learning where the **** starts and knowing when at some point you are just buying eye candy and not a better performing cable.
    So to talk about what your saying here of the AQ type 4's is the fact that the cables he was comparing them to probably didn't pass the signal correctly in comparison to the to AQ Type 4's ability to do so properly. The Type 4 is a wonderful affordable high quality cable that basically meets or exceeds most systems needs. There is little to gain past the Type 4 and beyond unless you have powerful amps and longer runs with higher demanding speakers. Then you would need heavier gauge cables that are properly built and terminated.

    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,666
    There it is folks, Dan finally admits to being mental.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,408
    Ok. So i just bought a pair of Wireworld mini eclipse 7's to replace my monster z series. If i don't hear an improvement I'm going to be pi$$ed and may not troll this forum for at least a day or two...

    Merry Christmas all!
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    What!?! Who on earth would talk you into those wires?!?
  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    Just kidding btw. Great wires and congrats!🎊🎈🍾
  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,851
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Ok. So i just bought a pair of Wireworld mini eclipse 7's to replace my monster z series. If i don't hear an improvement I'm going to be pi$$ed and may not troll this forum for at least a day or two...

    Merry Christmas all!

    provided you know what to listen for and that's another can of worms :D
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
    Puritan PSM156
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,408
    marvda1 wrote: »
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Ok. So i just bought a pair of Wireworld mini eclipse 7's to replace my monster z series. If i don't hear an improvement I'm going to be pi$$ed and may not troll this forum for at least a day or two...

    Merry Christmas all!

    provided you know what to listen for and that's another can of worms :D

    More detailed boom and twang... Got this!
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    Its hard to say exactly what to listen for, but it should be obvious to hear. :)

    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,851
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Its hard to say exactly what to listen for, but it should be obvious to hear. :)

    sometimes the difference can be quite small which reminds me of back in the day (don't want to date myself) B&O made two cartridges, one for $70 and the other for $140, the only difference was the $140 had less noticeable highlighted ssssss and ccccc sounds.
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
    Puritan PSM156