12 Gauge vs 16 Gauge??
Comments
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Actually, in rereading your response, I see that you aren't even primarily quoting me but trying to mix my words with those of Brock and Jesse as well. Maybe you should step back and take a breath and try to comprehend what you are reading and differentiate between users. You may be surprised to find that what you read and what you quote aren't all the same thing."Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
WOW,
I like and hate these cable threads. People do like their high end cables,
I don't have a lot of extra cash to spend on AV gear as I would like to living in SoCal. This is what I would suggest for someone on a budget.
after browsing through this thread nobody once said "Call Doug" http://douglasconnection.com/main.sc I had only one dealing with the man he didn't try to sell me $135 a meter wire. 10AWG Furez @ $1.30 a foot, turned out to sound much better than the Monoprice 12AWG it replaced. I have the Furez hooked up my front 3.
Monoprice 14AWG or 12AWG is just fine for surrounds. Crud I am forced by the jerks who built my house in 2000 to living with generic 16AWG to my 4 in-ceiling speakers. Yes i would like to replace it with better wire but the jerks stapled it down. So no way to pull new wire through. If anybody wants to come over and try without ripping out the drywall I will buy the beer and ribeye.
For end banana's something decent works well https://www.amazon.com/Audioquest-SureGrip-Silver-Bananas-pack/dp/B00TQ1D5W4/ref=pd_sbs_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00TQ1D5W4&pd_rd_r=VNHE3JSMP0YY9P8K2H61&pd_rd_w=XbUNX&pd_rd_wg=rFfWS&psc=1&refRID=VNHE3JSMP0YY9P8K2H61 I will be replacing my old brass GLS audio locking banana's with these in a few weeks
HDMI I find that Audioquest are very good. I have 3 green Audioquest I got at a garage sales years ago for dirt. I will replace these soon as well, they might even be over 10 years old. I will go to Best Buy and have them price match for the best Audioquest I can afford.
Power Cables. If it can be replaced yes do it. At least got to Frys and get 16AWG PC power cord. These 18AWG a lot of gear comes with suck. Not enough juice to the gear when it's needed is not a good thing. I replaced the 18AWG power cord on my Sony ES with a 14AWG PC power cord and yes it did make a big difference.
Power Conditioning, Yes at least get a Panamax AV8 https://www.amazon.com/Panamax-PM8-AV-Outlet-Cable-Sat-Telephone-Silver/dp/B002UI8E4O/ref=sr_1_sc_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491869788&sr=1-3-spell&keywords=penamax This too made a difference in my system.
RCA, Audioquest or BJC depending on budget.
So in my humble opinion yes cables do matter. Spend what you can afford to buy.
When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
I don't believe anyone put claims on $50K, $20k, or even $5K cables
It's the claim of the naysayers that cable cannot produce difference is what I will debate with you.
Cables can also be dependent on the level of your gear. If you have weak links in the chain that can't give you the detail then cables will not matter unless you are starving the voltage signals.
The chain includes music media/recording>>>source input>>>source distribution>>>amplification>>>speakers....this also excludes proper/clean power/interference
6-links
With all the characteristics in metallurgy, gauges, twisted/non twisted, reflective/deflective/dialectic casings etc there is know way you can tell me that signal cannot be augmented down a signal path.
2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Here is a prime example
A few years back a coworker was pulling cat5e through his house. He went and picked up a Monoprice box of Cat5e for $80. I told him to go to this electronics store and get the USA made cat5e @ $130 a box he said it was all the some.
Next day I pulled 120' from each box crimped on some ends and set up 2 PC's in the warehouse. We used a 25GB ISO stored on the hard drive. My USA made 100% pure copper had a transfer rate of 124Mbs on every attempt. His cheap just as good cat5e would start @ 124Mbs and slow down to 80Mbs. Poor dude sat there all day trying different files and PC's. In the end he did find that the USA made cable was better. He went and got a box.
If I could not afford it I would have purchased the cheaper box. still works but I like to buy the best I can afford within reason. Speaker, HDMI, RCA and Power all adds up, I have the same buying practice there too.
Now if someone want to give me $20k cables to try out, sure no problem I will try them. Or even $200 I will give them a shot and give my honest opinion. Don't think it would make that much of a difference on my system.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
Everything matters. Including cables.Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
Sunfire TGP 5
Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
PS Audio GCPH phono pre
Sunfire CG 200 X 5
Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
OPPO BDP-83 SE
SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
Ctr CS1000p
Sur - FX1000 x 4
SUB - SVS PB2-Plus
Workkout room:
Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
Onkyo TX-DS898
GFA 555
Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
Ft - SDA 1C
Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404 -
According to Matthew Polk all you need is 16 gauge or larger.
From every believable study I've seen, the size of the cable only matters as the length increases. For longer runs you want larger gauge but most say 12 gauge is all you need for just about any conventional application.
For a lot of things like audio cables, multi-blade razors, motor oil, etc... for every so-called study that claims that fancy cables make a difference you can find just as many sources that say it BS. You will also find zealots who will defend one side of the argument or the other as-if it was the Bible vs the Koran.
One thing I always felt was total BS was the theory that speaker wires start to sound better after they are "broken -in". I just can't buy that malarkey. Like the electrons start flowing better after they get used to the copper.
I think I would need a bunch of joints and probably a couple hits of acid before my ears would convince me of that nonsense. If there is a difference I can't tell. if it were true why wouldn't these high-end cable manufacturers break them in for the consumers in advance?
Here's a naysayer: http://roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm -
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If YOU hear no difference, then there is no difference. Good for you.
"One thing I always felt was total BS was the theory that speaker wires start to sound better after they are "broken -in". I just can't buy that malarkey. Like the electrons start flowing better after they get used to the copper."
You just don't have any experience then. If you have some, please sight some
examples of cables used.
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According to Matthew Polk all you need is 14 gauge or larger.
Sure, that must be why Polk sold their Cobra cable and why Matt uses better cables at his house. Must to tough being so wrong about so much, so often, but you do bring it upon yourself.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
ken brydson wrote: »Here's Roger Rabbit again, knew it would come up...
You can shoot the messenger in this but he provides a lot more in data to back his claims than any on here that I've seen.
It's real easy to just say the kind of stuff you just did without anything to back your claims. I could do that easily too but I am a little more open minded on the subject. I like to look at all sides of a discussion.According to Matthew Polk all you need is 14 gauge or larger.
Sure, that must be why Polk sold their Cobra cable and why Matt uses better cables at his house. Must to tough being so wrong about so much, so often, but you do bring it upon yourself.
This guy in the link I posted does actual testing on now-discontinued Polk Cobra cable Mein Fuhrer.
http://roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm
Here's what every Polk Audio manual I've ever seen says about the cable requirement for Polk Speakers:
"Use two-conductor 16 gauge or thicker
speaker wires. Measure enough wire to reach
from your receiver or amp to the speaker.
Keep in mind the extra length needed for running
the wire around doors and windows.
Leave yourself about 12" of extra slack to
allow moving the speakers or receiver without
having to disconnect the wires." -
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Rosso Fiorentino breaks in their drivers and crossovers before I get my hands on them. Same concept. This isn't done on a large scale because it isn't practical. You can be absolutely sure that no product is showcased with zero hours on it from any experienced dealer or manufacturer.
Yeah but then you can't tell if there was a difference.
Are you sure they aren't just saying that? Who could tell?
lol
I'm more prone to believe that drivers, capacitors and moving voice coils operate differently after a break-in period than just copper wire does. That makes more sense to me.
Different subject. -
DonnerUndBlitzen wrote: »Gatecrasher wrote: »According to Matthew Polk all you need is 14 gauge or larger.
From every believable study I've seen, the size of the cable only matters as the length increases. For longer runs you want larger gauge but most say 12 gauge is all you need for just about any conventional application.
For a lot of things like audio cables, multi-blade razors, motor oil, etc... for every so-called study that claims that fancy cables make a difference you can find just as many sources that say it BS. You will also find zealots who will defend one side of the argument or the other as-if it was the Bible vs the Koran.
One thing I always felt was total BS was the theory that speaker wires start to sound better after they are "broken -in". I just can't buy that malarkey. Like the electrons start flowing better after they get used to the copper.
I think I would need a bunch of joints and probably a couple hits of acid before my ears would convince me of that nonsense. If there is a difference I can't tell. if it were true why wouldn't these high-end cable manufacturers break them in for the consumers in advance?
Here's a naysayer: http://roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm
Hi gatecrasher:
Please be careful in the suggestions you make, "If there is a difference I can't tell. if it were true why wouldn't these high-end cable manufacturers break them in for the consumers in advance?"
Actually they do. And they sell devices to break in cables, amps, preamps and phono stages.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
DonnerUndBlitzen wrote: »Here is a prime example
A few years back a coworker was pulling cat5e through his house. He went and picked up a Monoprice box of Cat5e for $80. I told him to go to this electronics store and get the USA made cat5e @ $130 a box he said it was all the some.
Next day I pulled 120' from each box crimped on some ends and set up 2 PC's in the warehouse. We used a 25GB ISO stored on the hard drive. My USA made 100% pure copper had a transfer rate of 124Mbs on every attempt. His cheap just as good cat5e would start @ 124Mbs and slow down to 80Mbs. Poor dude sat there all day trying different files and PC's. In the end he did find that the USA made cable was better. He went and got a box.
If I could not afford it I would have purchased the cheaper box. still works but I like to buy the best I can afford within reason. Speaker, HDMI, RCA and Power all adds up, I have the same buying practice there too.
Now if someone want to give me $20k cables to try out, sure no problem I will try them. Or even $200 I will give them a shot and give my honest opinion. Don't think it would make that much of a difference on my system.
Hi mrloren:
Does it matter audibly that you have Polk Signature speakers and Marantz 5010 receivers, or would it matter even more if you had higher end speakers and something like a Parasound Halo integrated amp for a dedicated 2 channel set up?
It's the best I can afford,,, now a nice Halo oh my that poor 15 amp circuit would get a workout.
Yes it does matter I have heard some of the gear you guys talk about on here. Nice stuff man.
I do live within my means so I have my A4L Marantz and Signatures,When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
Here's some to name a few.
2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
And another
2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
There have been times when swapping cables has made little or no difference to my ears and setup but also times where big differences were heard. I recently tried a pair of Cardas IC's in place of TOTL MIT StyleLine IC's between my preamp and amp and I really couldn't hear much if any of a difference. I think it just depends on your particular setup and the cables in question. I think I agree with Ron that just because a cable is more expensive doesn't mean it's going to be better in your particular setup, you need to try cables out for yourself. Buy used so you can recoup costs while trying different cables out. I've personally heard large sound stage differences though, so the thought that cable is cable isn't one I agree with overall.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Anybody that doesn't think cables make a
Difference should attend a nordost power cable demo, or one of their USB demos. It's quite interesting.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
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USA never landed on the moon. It was staged cuz we HAD to beat the Russians there.
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I have to be honest that I've never been able to hear a difference between the speaker cables I've used but I never use anything smaller than 14 gauge stranded copper. I actually have some pretty-nice Monster and Canare wires that I am not even using right now because they really don't seem to sound any better than regular 12 gauge stranded copper speaker wire I am now using. They sure cost a lot more though. Not a lot of bang for the buck though as far as I can tell.
The fancy wires are nice though. They are definitely heavy-duty but other than that I haven't seen any improvement in sound.
I use higher-end RCA cables too but could never really tell any difference between them and the cheap ones that traditionally come with audio equipment. They look cooler though. -
Then you are truly lucky GC because this stuff gets expensive fast.
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I honestly really don't give a shiite, about others opinions
I build my systems and do some tweaking
When you are into system for 10-20k+ a couple extra grand isn't nothing
I have every cable I have purchased over the last 10 years, have fun dialing it in, part of the hobby....so
FYI just bought some golf balls, they are guaranteed out of the box to fly straight 600yards2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
rednedtugent wrote: »Then you are truly lucky GC because this stuff gets expensive fast.
Well I try to be as open-minded and objective as possible. I'm an engineer and a statistics geek and strive to take as much of the emotion out of the decision-making process as possible by letting the numbers do the talking.
It's nothing personal here. Show me the data. -
Gatecrasher wrote: »Here's how people on this forum behave when others question their beliefs about speaker cables .....
I certainly have never acted that way. The way I behave when someone questions any of my beliefs is to outline my reasoning process, along with any supporting scientific documentation. I also ask the same of those questioning my beliefs.Gatecrasher wrote: »
One thing I always felt was total BS was the theory that speaker wires start to sound better after they are "broken -in". I just can't buy that malarkey. Like the electrons start flowing better after they get used to the copper.
The electrons do not flow better. The noise performance of the cable improves due to less energy being absorbed from, and being released back into, the audio signal (from the insulation). I have done several studies, with oscilloscope measurements, of noise characteristics, of cables before and after break in.Gatecrasher wrote: »If it were true why wouldn't these high-end cable manufacturers break them in for the consumers in advance?
For the same reasons that shoe manufacturers don't break in shoes, car manufacturers don't break in cars, and speaker manufacturers don't break in speakers: it costs time and money and it is something the owner will do anyway by normal use of the product.Gatecrasher wrote: »Here's a naysayer: http://roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm
Hypocrite would be a better word. He uses Cardas wire in the speakers he sells.I actually do my own research instead of letting others do my thinking for me).
This is why so many people get suckered into adopting naysayer mindset: they are too lazy to do their own product comparison studies. For some people, it is very comforting to think that such studies are a waste of time because "electronics and cables all sound alike".DonnerUndBlitzen wrote: »K_M reasonably asked that the truth claims of very expensive audio cables be proven by double blind tests and other evidence. The burden of proof is not on K_M, it is on The Cable Co. and other sellers of audio gear.
I asked how was it reasonable to use a test that has been scientifically proven to give erroneous results for the class of sensory stimuli that stereophonic audio is a member of.
I further asked for scientific justification for using blind/double blind tests when the peer reviewed sensory science literature, as well as the experimental work of the Bell Labs researchers who invented home stereo systems, indicated that trained listeners using descriptive tests was the correct method.
If a scientist invents a system, and then specifies a methodology for evaluating the performance of that system, and someone comes along a specifies an evaluation methodology in direct opposition to the inventor's...the opposing party must scientifically point out the errors in the inventor's methods as well as scientifically justify the proposed alternative.DonnerUndBlitzen wrote: »They recommended spending up to 5% and beyond that money could be better spent in other areas to improve my audio system. Info on "What should I buy and why and how much should I spend?" is very helpful.
I can stay within the 5% benchmark at BJC and other vendors.
Did you question what the "5%" figure was based on? What was the experimental process that resulted in the 5% recommendation?Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
Yet another thread that became somewhat obscurely informative but more so entertainingly interesting given to the fact of the relative simplicity of the original op question!
From what should have been a somewhat straight forward answer has in its 10 page convolution addressed the virtues of expenditure on quality spk cable vs wire in relation to its use in a lower mid market system.Given rise to the merits of particular cable brand loyalties and cable tier reasons.Touched on the subject of shaving and it apparatus.Somewhat conservatively condemned Audioholics site for their knowledge base in the hobby, Debated for and against the value and need of blind testing in resolving possible bias issues in comparative product evaluations.And once again reiterated the somewhat moot point that cable matters from a perspective that from what i gathered wasn't even in question and that has now somehow again become relevant again!
AS to the originally posted question-Not being a audiophile or even a avid enthusiast I may not be equipped with the satisfactorily amount of knowledge or expertise to justify my recommendation to the op,But however from what i have read on the subject suggests that by going with a thicker gauge from a reputable manufacture using quality construction methods you may find in laymen's terms to derive at a slightly fuller clearer snd with a deeper bass extension.The value of this limited increase would naturally need to be determined by your time expense and difficulty in making the change over.
However if your using a amp and frt spks of a decent quality and your not limited in amp placement by room design ,esthetics and or user functionality it would be advisable to move the amp near the spks to shorten the wire runs to allow the opportunity to gain a performance increase through the use of higher performance spk cable,Also if the amp is equipped with pre out jacks powering the frt spks with a power amp of decent quality will greatly improve musical performance in comparison to the av amp.However in cable choice due diligence in researching recommendations may be prudent as the level of performance gain is acquainted to the design construction best suited to match the system used and may prove to cost restrictive to obtain the best results,Therefore it can prove somewhat taxing to find a brand within a certain price point that will allow for the best performance gain of the given system
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DarqueKnight wrote: »Gatecrasher wrote: »Here's how people on this forum behave when others question their beliefs about speaker cables .....
I certainly have never acted that way. The way I behave when someone questions any of my beliefs is to outline my reasoning process, along with any supporting scientific documentation. I also ask the same of those questioning my beliefs.
Just because you provide more than pure opinion doesn't necessarily mean I trust your data, but I do give you credit for the effort. I think there is room for error in your logic but value what you are saying.DarqueKnight wrote: »Gatecrasher wrote: »
One thing I always felt was total BS was the theory that speaker wires start to sound better after they are "broken -in". I just can't buy that malarkey. Like the electrons start flowing better after they get used to the copper.
The electrons do not flow better. The noise performance of the cable improves due to less energy being absorbed from, and being released back into, the audio signal (from the insulation). I have done several studies, with oscilloscope measurements, of noise characteristics, of cables before and after break in.
I don't think that the test you did was definitive as to how that translates to an audible difference. It may show there is some difference but if I can't hear the difference I have a hard time believing it is a meaningful experiment. Are you sure your results aren't biased? You sure sound like you want to believe. Again I applaud the effort but there have been other tests disputing yours. Who's are we to believe if we can't hear a difference?DarqueKnight wrote: »Gatecrasher wrote: »If it were true why wouldn't these high-end cable manufacturers break them in for the consumers in advance?
For the same reasons that shoe manufacturers don't break in shoes, car manufacturers don't break in cars, and speaker manufacturers don't break in speakers: it costs time and money and it is something the owner will do anyway by normal use of the product.
So I guess by that logic used speaker wire is more valuable than brand-new? If there was any noticeable difference in sound quality I'd tend to think that it would be common knowledge and audiophiles would be willing to spend more money for old used cables than new ones. Again, as an engineer (and somewhat of an electronics buff) I'm not sold on this one least of all and am more prone to believe it is a total wives tale at best.
But you are entitled to your own opinion and it is a breath of fresh air to hear a response like yours vs some of the others. No personal attack like we've all become accustomed to receiving from F1 and no ridiculous references to legal burden of proof for those who dare to question something that appears to be highly subjective at best.
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I do not respect you or your opinions because you haven't earned either, hence my blunt responses to your nonsense, which started from day one and hasn't changed. In addition, you've shown no interest in becoming part of this group, so you're reaping what you've sown.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Well, next time I set up a public gig to demo....I'll buy you a plane ticket Gatecrasher
If you don't show, the burden of proof is on your hands2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
This discussion has been closed.