My 2.3 TL rebuild - so close it hurts

headrott

quadzilla wrote: »

I just checked, and that's a really good idea. Makes everything fit perfectly. Thanks!

Well that's good! I was getting worried that I bought some without the ability to fit them on Tony's boards!:cheesygrin: Please keep the photos and description of how it's going coming.

Greg

quadzilla

F1nut wrote: »

I'll answer for Tony, yes.

Thanks, also very good to know. I was going to put some foam tape under the resistors to damp them. But now I guess I'll be mounting them from the top and figuring out a way to anchor the end sticking up so they don't move around.

quadzilla

One other question.... Looking at the binding post cup, can anyone think of a downside to making a flat one out of .220 acrylic? Would that be stiff enough? The only thing I can think of is that it might flex and create a resonance. But I've always really hated the recessed binding posts since I use spades.

F1nut

quadzilla wrote: »

Thanks, also very good to know. I was going to put some foam tape under the resistors to damp them. But now I guess I'll be mounting them from the top and figuring out a way to anchor the end sticking up so they don't move around.

Top or bottom mounting won't matter as long as you leave air space around them.

Looking at the binding post cup, can anyone think of a downside to making a flat one out of .220 acrylic? Would that be stiff enough?

Good question and I'm not sure about the acrylic. Delrin or aluminum would be good choices.

Toolfan66

F1nut wrote: »

Top or bottom mounting won't matter as long as you leave air space around them.



Good question and I'm not sure about the acrylic. Delrin or aluminum would be good choices.

Hummmm...Like I need another project:redface:

quadzilla

I'm mounting them from the top because I'm putting an acrylic layer under the xover boards, with 1/2" stand-offs, so I can also anchor the corners. I'm making it out of the thickest acrylic sheets I could find locally, which is .220" thick. I wondering if that would also be stiff enough for a binding post plate.

Where can you get delrin sheets, typically?

headrott

Hmmm, can you post pics of the acrylic layer under the crossover boards? I'd be interested in seeing how it works out.

Greg

gimpod

quadzilla wrote: »

Thanks, also very good to know. I was going to put some foam tape under the resistors to damp them. But now I guess I'll be mounting them from the top and figuring out a way to anchor the end sticking up so they don't move around.

You could use some of that acrylic to make stands for them, something like this, I would use three for each resister one for each end and one in the middle. Hot glue to the board and use just enough to get the job done on the resistors.

Excuse my quicky drawing. :redface:

quadzilla wrote: »

One other question.... Looking at the binding post cup, can anyone think of a downside to making a flat one out of .220 acrylic? Would that be stiff enough? The only thing I can think of is that it might flex and create a resonance. But I've always really hated the recessed binding posts since I use spades.

I don't know about the acrylic and I wouldn't use anything conductive. This is one idea I'm thinking about doing on my CRS+'s is plugging the hole with the right thickness MDF and then drilling holes for the binding posts below and to the side of the original hole.

quadzilla

I looked up the tensile strength of delrin and acrylic. Delrin is 11,000 psi for .250 thick sheet, and acrylic is 10,000 psi .236 thick sheet. The acrylic also has a surface resistivity of 1.9 x 10e15 ohm-cm. I think the acrylic will be fine. The hardest part will probably be cutting to circles that don't look like ****. Or I might just do squares.

Face

I would contact Duelund about the need for an air gap between the board and resistors, I believe it may not be needed.

Toolfan66

Quad,

Let me see how much Delrin or any other plastics I might have at the shop tomorrow, it wouldn't take much to cut a couple of circles for you.

If I don't have anything that will work I will call our vender and see if he has a loose piece laying around on the cheap. You kinda have me thinking here..

quadzilla

Wow Larry, that's great! Thanks very much. If you can do that, I can drill it out for the binding posts and SDA IC holes. I thinking with a flat plate, there's no reason to have the two top posts so far apart. I'd move the IC connector further down, then put the top posts centered and near the top, with the bottom posts maybe a bit closer to the bottom. Probably have to pull the IC to tighten/loosen the binding posts, but I think that'd be a better design than what Polk did. And I could fit my spades on without having to bend the cable at a right angle coming off the posts.

Toolfan66

Yep not having the top post so far apart is what I was thinking as well, I never really cared for the dish cup anyway. I might just router the back so the delrin is at least flush with the cabinet though. Not looking forward to pulling my speakers out from where and how I have them setup but I don't have to do it right away, hell I was one of the last people here to put in tweeter brackets in my speakers and I made them. LOL!!!

Toolfan66

Quad just remember I will do it if I have something in the shop or I can get a piece of drop from our vender on the cheap to avoid ordering a sheet..

quadzilla

It's still effing nice of you. I also found a place that I could order a 12x12 .250 sheet for 25 bucks. And heck, considering how much I'm into this, what's another 25 bucks?

quadzilla

Got the jumpers installed. Took a couple of hours because I was also learning to prep litz wire for soldering. Yes, I made jumpers out of litz wire.

quadzilla

Got the acrylic plates cut. Now to start soldering. Still have to find some 1/2" stand offs though. Even 1/4" will do since I'm mounting everything from the front.

Also, acrylic is a **** to cut without the right tools. What I wouldn't give for a water jet right now.

headrott

Those should work nicely quad. Where did you source the acrylic from? And, how did you cut it?

Greg

headrott

Face wrote: »

I would contact Duelund about the need for an air gap between the board and resistors, I believe it may not be needed.

I asked Duelund and was told there should be "a little" bit of a gap between the board and resistor.

Greg

Toolfan66

That's what I did on my CRS+'s for a backing board. Just order your stand offs, nuts and screws from Mouser Electronics.

SDA1C

A belt sander does wonders on crooked edges.

quadzilla

headrott wrote: »

Those should work nicely quad. Where did you source the acrylic from? And, how did you cut it?

Greg

Home Depot. Dremel to cut.

headrott wrote: »

I asked Duelund and was told there should be "a little" bit of a gap between the board and resistor.

Greg

Cool that should work with what I decided to do. I'm going to put two very small pieces of foam tape down and use a cable tie to secure them.

quadzilla

Toolfan66 wrote: »

That's what I did on my CRS+'s for a backing board. Just order your stand offs, nuts and screws from Mouser Electronics.

Found the stand offs I need at Fry's. Already have bolts, nuts, etc.

Not that worried about how it looks since no one will see them. Just a PITA to cut.

Got started on the soldering too. All the caps are in place. Now I'm going to work out the final resistor placement.

headrott

quadzilla wrote: »

Home Depot. Dremel to cut.

I ended up ordering 4 pre-cut (to size) pieces from a place called Professional Plastics. Located in California, they should get here this week sometime.

quadzilla wrote: »

Cool that should work with what I decided to do. I'm going to put two very small pieces of foam tape down and use a cable tie to secure them.

Are you putting the foam tape on the caps and laying the resitors across them?

Greg

quadzilla

I'll have a pic later when I get it finalized.

gimpod

quadzilla wrote: »

I'm going to put two very small pieces of foam tape down and use a cable tie to secure them.

quadzilla - I wouldn't do that if I was you, Foam tape is fine just use the double sided sticky stuff as long as you use just enough to get the job done. Zip ties with those resistors are a bad idea, you need to remember there graphite/carbon and break really easy.

quadzilla

gimpod wrote: »

quadzilla - I wouldn't do that if I was you, Foam tape is fine just use the double sided sticky stuff as long as you use just enough to get the job done. Zip ties with those resistors are a bad idea, you need to remember there graphite/carbon and break really easy.

That's true, except whatever they make the casing out of is impervious to being stuck to by foam tape. The tie won't be tight, or even very close to it. Just enough to keep the resistors from moving around. This is a pic of the arrangement I came up with.

gimpod

No offense but I see 1 maybe 2 problems.

1. The resistor your using in place of the polyswitch. It's ending up right where the 0.3mH inductor needs to go (solder holes N & J) you may also have to move that 5.8uF cap up a bit for the same reason.

2. That 16uF cap may need to move a little to the right to make room for L5. It's kinda hard to see in your picture.

I think your best bet is to mount those resistors on the bottom side of the board, ether way your going to have to extend the leads on those resistors to make them fit, that way it'll give you more room to move things around a bit. don't forget you've still have to fit those little inductors in there.

quadzilla

Yeah, it's not truly final. And that's why I left the leads on the caps and haven't tied them down yet. I agree, things will almost certainly have to move a bit more before I get to the final layout. It's going to be hard to move the 5.8 though because there are jumpers on both sides of it more or less forcing it to be where it is, and that kind of limits the options of where to put that cap.

quadzilla

I had another idea for the 22.5 ohm resistors and the resistors I'm using to replace the polyswitch, so let me know what you guys think about this. I'll put down a small dab of hot glue at each end, then run a small "rope" across the top of the resistor to keep it in place. I doubt the glue will actually stick to the resistor though, since foam tape won't stick at all. Might be wrong, but we'll have to see.