My 2.3 TL rebuild - so close it hurts

quadzilla

More good news... the rest of the crossover parts shipped today. Should be able to start building the crossovers next week.

quadzilla

Caps and resistors are here. Extra caps up for sale in the FM in the next few days. Prices will be what I paid + what it cost to get them shipped to me. Unfortunately, the shipping wasn't cheap.

Also got word that the binding posts, wiring, etc., also shipped today. Spikes are supposed to have shipped out over a week ago, but no show so far. Need to call them tomorrow, as Thurs. will make 2 weeks since shipping.

All that's left are the spikes, and for Polk to get around to shipping the tweeters.

Shaping up to be a very, very merry xmas of xover upgrading.

quadzilla

Does anyone know if the wiring diagrams in the sticky (http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?55888-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-Stereo-Dimensional-Array(SDA) ) are correct? I'm asking because it looks like the stereo drivers are all parallel, but when I had the speakers apart to install Larry's rings, I noticed that in each speaker, the bottom 2 seemed wired in phase and in series, but then the white wire came out of the black side and visa versa with the other side of the harness. And one of the things I wanted to start working on this week is the new harness, since the wiring will be in tonight.

drumminman

Don't know - when I did mine I labelled everything so that I re-connected the wire harness the same way it was connected before I started working on it.

I think Headrott was dealing with this a couple of weeks ago, which was the reason the wiring diagram was posted.

gimpod

I'm not sure how there wired but I believe there wired in a Series/Parallel configuration so that when all wired up the total load will be around 6.5 - 7 Ohms.

I would label each wire pos, neg and what driver it go's to with #1 being the top one as you pull the drivers. Then pull the harness lay it out on your bench and duplicate it with the new wire making sure to label the connections.

drumminman

gimpod wrote: »

I'm not sure how there wired but I believe there wired in a Series/Parallel configuration so that when all wired up the total load will be around 6.5 - 7 Ohms.

I would label each wire pos, neg and what driver it go's to with #1 being the top one as you pull the drivers. Then pull the harness lay it out on your bench and duplicate it with the new wire making sure to label the connections.

+1 that's exactly what I did, except I didn't make a new harness.

quadzilla

Yeah, I figured I'd have to pull the harness, but was hoping to get away with building one using the wiring diagram so it'd be ready to go when I start the assembly.

Any who, here's a pic of a partially done initial component layout for the xovers. This upgrade would be impossible without Gimpod's boards.

Toolfan66

Those Dulands are looking good next to the clarity caps.. I ordered custom short tubes with longer leads from Duland to make the install easier, and I was glad I did..

quadzilla

Yeah, I'm wishing I had now, but I'll be able to make it work, I think. I've got some silver UPOCC that I can extend the leads with. I just didn't expect them to be quite that long.

headrott

Toolfan66 wrote: »

Those Dulands are looking good next to the clarity caps.. I ordered custom short tubes with longer leads from Duland to make the install easier, and I was glad I did..

Larry, did you get the custom sized Duelunds from Partsconnexion? How much were they for the special order short tubes and how long did it take to get them?

Greg

Toolfan66

headrott wrote: »

Larry, did you get the custom sized Duelunds from Partsconnexion? How much were they for the special order short tubes and how long did it take to get them?

Greg

I emailed Duland directly with my needs and they took care of it, it took them longer on my order as they got flooded out from a rain storm, my guess is worst case 4 weeks. Cost was about $8 extra per resistor plus shipping. I did not get the coated ones that quadzilla did they do cost a little more as well.

headrott

quadzilla wrote: »

Yeah, I'm wishing I had now, but I'll be able to make it work, I think. I've got some silver UPOCC that I can extend the leads with. I just didn't expect them to be quite that long.

If the resistors were 3" instead of 5" would the normal leads (not extended) be long enoiught to fit in the 2 spots and still avoid everything else? Thanks again.

Greg

quadzilla

headrott wrote: »

If the resistors were 3" instead of 5" would the normal leads (not extended) be long enoiught to fit in the 2 spots and still avoid everything else? Thanks again.

Greg

I've got a few smaller value resistors that are about 3". I can check that when I get home. But really, I think all I'm going to have to do is turn them sideways and they'll be fine with slightly extended leads.

Toolfan66

Greg,

If you order them from Duland order them with longer leads just knowing they will be longer will give you piece of mind. The ones I ordered from parts connection the lengths were all over the place, thats the biggest reason I went straight to Dueland..

quadzilla

The ones I got were pretty consistent, but then I ordered the cast, so maybe someone paid more attention along the way. I know I would've been seriously pissed at paying 50 bucks per resistor and getting anything less than perfect.

headrott

Yeah, I asked for a quote for longer leads. It's 5 euros more per resistor, but it's better than recieving them finding out they don't fit. Thanks guys for the advice.

Greg

quadzilla

headrott wrote: »

If the resistors were 3" instead of 5" would the normal leads (not extended) be long enoiught to fit in the 2 spots and still avoid everything else? Thanks again.

Greg

So the answer turns out to be "no". It doesn't matter how long the leads are, the boards aren't wide enough between where the 8 uf mounts and the connector, even with a 3" long resistor. They're going to have to be mounted sideways on the board, or else mounted sticking up an an angle. I prefer the sideways mount so I can both anchor and damp them. Or I guess you could mount them on the bottom of the board, then they'll be fine.

gimpod

It's kinda funny all this talk about making dulands fit these boards because when I started the design process I was thinking of doing just that then I went and got the dimensions of the dulands and went hell no at 5" long these boards would be huge! really huge!:eek:

Toolfan66

Any tweaker can make them work..LOL!!

Toolfan66

I am going to build two small cabinets after the holidays to house my inductors and crossovers (external) should be fun..

headrott

quadzilla wrote: »

So the answer turns out to be "no". It doesn't matter how long the leads are, the boards aren't wide enough between where the 8 uf mounts and the connector, even with a 3" long resistor. They're going to have to be mounted sideways on the board, or else mounted sticking up an an angle. I prefer the sideways mount so I can both anchor and damp them. Or I guess you could mount them on the bottom of the board, then they'll be fine.

gimpod wrote: »

It's kinda funny all this talk about making dulands fit these boards because when I started the design process I was thinking of doing just that then I went and got the dimensions of the dulands and went hell no at 5" long these boards would be huge! really huge!:eek:

Toolfan66 wrote: »

Any tweaker can make them work..LOL!!

No sweat, I'll make it work. I got the cast version anyway, so they are dampened that much more.

Greg

quadzilla

gimpod wrote: »

It's kinda funny all this talk about making dulands fit these boards because when I started the design process I was thinking of doing just that then I went and got the dimensions of the dulands and went hell no at 5" long these boards would be huge! really huge!:eek:

Give that audio freak a huge board. Audio freaks love huge boards. I'm starting to strongly consider mounting these things from the bottom. It's starting to look like that'll be easiest, but I'll figure that out over the weekend.

Hey though... just had an idea.... I could use teflon pipe tape to wrap the leads so they don't short, then mount from the top. Should be ok then.

drumminman

quadzilla wrote: »

Give that audio freak a huge board. Audio freaks love huge boards. I'm starting to strongly consider mounting these things from the bottom. It's starting to look like that'll be easiest, but I'll figure that out over the weekend.

Hey though... just had an idea.... I could use teflon pipe tape to wrap the leads so they don't short, then mount from the top. Should be ok then.

Use the teflon gas pipe tape - it's a bit thicker and easier to work with than the white plumber's tape. That white stuff usually ends up in a crumpled wad when I try to use it

Toolfan66

I just used hot glue, it works just fine..

quadzilla

Here are two alternative cap layouts. Obviously, the one on the bottom is a non-starter because the inductors won't fit. Even with the one on the top, getting one of the bolts to hold the xover to the 16.8 mh inductor is going to be a challenge. And that, at this point, is making wonder if I just want to get a couple of project boards and go with a point-to-point wired xover based on gimpod's layout.... Well, I don't, but it might come to that.

gimpod

Just an idea try moving the 18uF cap over to the C2-B position and extend the leads around the inductors L1 & L2 to the C1 holes.

Bet you wish you've ordered the 250V caps about now.

quadzilla

gimpod wrote: »

Just an idea try moving the 18uF cap over to the C2-B position and extend the leads around the inductors L1 & L2 to the C1 holes.

Bet you wish you've ordered the 250V caps about now.

Most of the values I wanted weren't available in 250V. That's the only reason I went 630. Of course, at the time, I didn't stop to think to ask them if they would special order them, since all those "non-stocked" values turned out to really be special order as well. I was just looking at the 630V page and everything but the 5.8 was listed there. So... yeah. I guess if I had it to do over, I might stop to ask that question. On the other hand, I don't think I'll ever have to worry about saturating these.

quadzilla

I just checked, and that's a really good idea. Makes everything fit perfectly. Thanks!

quadzilla

Tony, one other question. You say to leave a 1/16" gap under the resistor. Is that for heat dissipation?

F1nut

I'll answer for Tony, yes.