My 2.3 TL rebuild - so close it hurts

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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited December 2011
    One other question to go with that; when cleaning up/resealing the cabinets, which is better: silicone caulk or hot glue?
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
    Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    quadzilla wrote: »
    One other question to go with that; when cleaning up/resealing the cabinets, which is better: silicone caulk or hot glue?

    Non hardening, Non flammable silicon.
    Too much **** to list....
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    Using that long of resistor I might be inclined to build a stacked board like Vmxr does and run a jumper to the corresponding holes in gimpods boards. If done properly you would be able to use the pin socket as a spacer and bend the leads to double as standoffs. That would also free up some space for the little inductors on th main board.
    Too much **** to list....
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited December 2011
    quadzilla wrote: »
    One other question to go with that; when cleaning up/resealing the cabinets, which is better: silicone caulk or hot glue?


    I just ran a bead of hot glue around the inside of the cabinet and called it a day..
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited December 2011
    SDA1C wrote: »
    Using that long of resistor I might be inclined to build a stacked board like Vmxr does and run a jumper to the corresponding holes in gimpods boards. If done properly you would be able to use the pin socket as a spacer and bend the leads to double as standoffs. That would also free up some space for the little inductors on th main board.

    Use the leads as stand offs?? WTF are you talking about:rolleyes:
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Use the leads as stand offs?? WTF are you talking about:rolleyes:

    Look at the xovers I did. I bent the leads about an 1/8 inch out from the body at 90 degrees. When you solder the lead it acts to hold the resistor off the board. For having all the answers some of you ask some pretty simple questions.
    Too much **** to list....
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited December 2011
    SDA1C wrote: »
    For having all the answers some of you ask some pretty simple questions.

    stfu.. Have you ever used a Duland resistor? There will be no problem keeping them off the board also I had my mills on my boards for over a year with no problems. There is no way to mount the dulands flat to the board I tucked little pieces of sonic barrier Under the dulands to take away some of the vibrations since they stick above the board.
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    oop sorry I was doing something more important than argue with you ...like scratching my...:redface: We clearly don't understand one another. No biggie not everyone does...
    Too much **** to list....
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited December 2011
    Silicone has no business inside a speaker cabinet and hot glue doesn't really seal that well on wood products. Liquid Nails or maybe acrylic caulk would be better choices. Smoothing out the bead (wear latex gloves) will force the product into the seams for a tight seal.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited December 2011
    Ok Mr I have upgraded a set of crossovers now I know it all guy!!!

    Take it down a notch you act like everyone is out to get you..
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited December 2011
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Take it down a notch you act like everyone is out to get you..

    They are.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited December 2011
    F1nut wrote: »
    Silicone has no business inside a speaker cabinet and hot glue doesn't really seal that well on wood products. Liquid Nails or maybe acrylic caulk would be better choices. Smoothing out the bead (wear latex gloves) will force the product into the seams for a tight seal.

    I agree with you Jesse I just used what I had as I really don't feel thet cabinets leaked any air but since I had them apart and had two big bags of glue sticks I figured it couldn't hurt to go over the seams.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited December 2011
    You're right, hot glue certainly won't hurt anything. Silicone is another matter.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited December 2011
    f1nut wrote: »
    they are.

    lol!!!
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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited December 2011
    F1nut wrote: »
    You're right, hot glue certainly won't hurt anything. Silicone is another matter.

    I am intrigued by your statements, and wish to subscribe to your newsletter. Seriously, why is silicone caulk a bad thing? I thought acrylic got hard, while the silicone would stay flexible? Did you have a bad experience with an "enhanced" exotic dancer, maybe?

    Also, I've had a lot of coffee already this morning. I mean a lot.

    edit: never mind, found this as an explanation. http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/FAQ/Build/
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
    Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    The whole fume thing is why I said use the nonflammable type. Generally it wont have caustic fumes if it isn't flammable. Also with a random spark it could go boom if it had the right air mixture (not likely but not worth the risk in my view).
    Too much **** to list....
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Ok Mr I have upgraded a set of crossovers now I know it all guy!!!

    Take it down a notch you act like everyone is out to get you..

    I know.... when someone doesn't drink your koolaid and honor your lifetime achievement of 2 years on an audio forum you get your balls in a bunch...I understand. I have seen the same attributes before and know it takes a lifetime of therapy to overcome such woes. I don't hold it against you Larry. I really don't. It's a sickness that has no known cure...only treatment. The way to be rid of it for the most part is to TREAT others with a little friggin respect and not assume that the only experience they have in audio (or life for that matter) is the time they have spent online having to deal with people like you.

    There's lots of "sealers in a tube" options. The liquid nails is a good one but it too has some fumes that must be abated. (The acrylic Liquid Nails that is) I used that exact one in conjunction with gorilla glue to repair the side panels of the (dare I even mention them) 1c's.

    OH yea...Making my second pot right now:cheesygrin:
    Too much **** to list....
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  • chumlie
    chumlie Posts: 8,658
    edited December 2011
    Don't mean to butt in. But just out of curiosity i called my son who builds speaker enclosures. He uses glue or fiberglass.
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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited December 2011
    Girls, girls... you're both pretty. Now stop it.

    Chum, I can see a bead of wood glue. Not sure how well the fiberglass would work.

    But then, if you let the silicone cure at least 24 hours, it should be ok too. Well, more thought required. I just want something that will seal the corner and stay flexible to handle changes in humidity, the vibrations that will, obviously, be going on a lot, etc.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
    Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    chumlie wrote: »
    Don't mean to butt in. But just out of curiosity i called my son who builds speaker enclosures. He uses glue or fiberglass.

    Was that what he builds them with or reseals them with? I too don't quite understand the reseal with fiberglass thing. Seems a bit difficult to me. Unless hes talking about redoing the outside, sanding it down all that. Then I get it.
    Too much **** to list....
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited December 2011
    SDA1C, you don't play well with others, eh?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    Face wrote: »
    SDA1C, you don't play well with others, eh?

    To be honest Face I do quite well with -most- others. But it does seem as I look back that the ones I don't do well with..I really really don't do well. lol
    Too much **** to list....
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  • chumlie
    chumlie Posts: 8,658
    edited December 2011
    I have no idea how the fiberglass works. But if you tell me i'm the prettiest, i'll find out.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited December 2011
    SDA1C wrote: »
    To be honest Face I do quite well with -most- others. But it does seem as I look back that the ones I don't do well with..I really really don't do well. lol
    It appears you like to cause friction with the most helpful members here and once you start posting in a thread it starts to go downhill. You may want to re-think your attitude.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    I'll see what I can do.....
    Too much **** to list....
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited December 2011
    chumlie wrote: »
    I have no idea how the fiberglass works. But if you tell me i'm the prettiest, i'll find out.

    Quadzilla might get jealous lol
    Too much **** to list....
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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited December 2011
    chumlie wrote: »
    I have no idea how the fiberglass works. But if you tell me i'm the prettiest, i'll find out.

    Of course you're the prettiest. You're a pretty, pretty princess.

    <where's a blueberry man smiley when you need one?>
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
    Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited December 2011
    Face wrote: »
    It appears you like to cause friction with the most helpful members here and once you start posting in a thread it starts to go downhill. You may want to re-think your attitude.

    Good observations and advice.

    Greg
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
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  • chumlie
    chumlie Posts: 8,658
    edited December 2011
    quadzilla wrote: »
    Of course you're the prettiest. You're a pretty, pretty princess.

    <where's a blueberry man smiley when you need one?>
    I'm on it Pumpkin. Soon as my son gets out of work i'll find out. Seriously though. Excellant job
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited December 2011
    quadzilla wrote: »
    Chum, I can see a bead of wood glue. Not sure how well the fiberglass would work.

    But then, if you let the silicone cure at least 24 hours, it should be ok too. Well, more thought required. I just want something that will seal the corner and stay flexible to handle changes in humidity, the vibrations that will, obviously, be going on a lot, etc.

    I'm sure he means fiberglass resin, which would be used to seal coat the interior MDF walls.

    Besides the corrosive issue of uncured silicone, it also creeps. That is, it will likely contaminate everything inside the cabinet. MDF is not subject to movement from changes in humidity, so there is no need for a flexible sealer. Take a look at the original glue/sealer Polk used and you'll see that it is pretty much rock hard.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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