Earlier this week I accidently hooked up the fixed output of a tuner which sent the full power of a Proton d1200 power amp into my khorns. Why are those rca jacks so close together and so hard to read especially in the dark on a chrome chassis. Thankfully the 1 1/4 amp fuse on the horns blew quickly. Once my heart rate got back to normal (100wpc into 105db sensitive speakers is stupid loud in case anyone is wondering) I started thinking how glad I was that those blown fuses weren't the $100+ type. Plus those generic fuses did their job and saved the horns from certain destruction.
The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.
One down, one to go.
I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.
The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.
One down, one to go.
I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.
Does the "B" stand for back so you remember which side is which? Yeah, I'm old too...
HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer SC-1222k AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One
The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.
One down, one to go.
I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.
Does the "B" stand for back so you remember which side is which? Yeah, I'm old too...
You mean, like writing "TGIF" on a pair of sneakers?
Toes go in first.
Close!
The cabinetmaker labeled one enclosure "A" and the other "B". The backs of the baffles are likewise labeled A and B. The speakers are also each labeled (1 and 2)
I actually have the measured T/S parameters of "1" and "2" so... it sort of matters. They are, fortunately, pretty close (not a given with drivers that are as old as I am -- perhaps even older).
PS both cabinets are now rewoofered with 515Bs. I had a town Finance Committee meeting tonight, so I haven't heard the pair -- yet.
I've been using Denon LO and HO MC's for a long time and never had an issue. gmcman, PM me if you want I may have a spare I'd let go but I'll have to take a look.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
I did pick up a new cart anyway, but never can have too many. I went with the Audio Technica 33PTG/2 and pretty much have it dialed in, but need to get back to it tomorrow. Also need to find some shorter screws.
This is in conjunction to the Cardas tonearm wire and Cardas Spiral air 1M interconnects, both are Litz style wires.
The results so far are excellent, I'm taken back at the moment at the level of air around the entire audio spectrum. Not overwhelming, but that sense of "being right there" really stands out, and not bright by any means, the highs are well controlled throughout.
I will revisit this, but for now I wanted to share my experience in leveling the table. I used a Starrett 98-8 level to get as much accuracy as I could, even though my regular bench level is adequate, I feel any amount of added accuracy is worth the trouble.
This Starrett is very sensitive, it will register the difference if I place a piece of register recipt under one end, each graduation is .005" per foot. The level would pick up a few deg of movement of the feet so this was a tedious task.
I've had good results with this mat, but cannot use a clamp due to he recessed center. Not trying to bash it, but was surprised at the deviation...and this likely wouldn't be an issue but the thickness varied at many points.
Once I realized this, I used a pair of calipers on the mat. The thickness varied from two points, 180 deg apart, from .1975" to .2060. This is somewhat depicted with the Starrett.
I'm currently using the stock rubber mat which is pretty much level, only a small variation but almost .009" across the other mat is still significant...unless I'm way overthinking it.
If you have the 1200, I highly reccommend at least these wire mods. This current setup is quite the upgrade from where it was.
Doing some re-freshing testing today. This combo doesn't suck.
Dual 1229Q into Pioneer SA-8100 driving a pair of Infinity Column II. Full disclosure: I was missing the left channel, so had to refresh headshell connections, and then all was well
I love these types of tests
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
It wasn't today but last Friday. I was working from home (very sick dog) and during lunch I decided to calibrate the system again seeing as we have added some art work to the walls. I also decided to lessen the toe in and kept the large speaker setting Audyssey chose and to my surprise the system sounded better than ever. The sound stage increased and there was a big difference in instrument/vocal separation.
2Ch- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607, Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 1 and AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Signal Dig Coax, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung 55JS7000, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Marantz DV-4200 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII, Android Mi Box3 and Apple TV. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Polk Patio 25x4, Rotel RDV 1045 (as CDP) MIT AVT3 ICs - Work - Spotify Premium or Neutron App to my FiiO Kunlun into my Grado SR125e
Finally got around to doing the crossover mod in my 7B on the right speaker. Sounds like a veil has been lifted. Much more clarity. Won't wait long to do the left one! 12 gauge OCC solid wire for the midbass because I wouldn't have been able to get to it later. Was going to do the wires as stage 2 but had to do it this way due to the huge size of the 34 uF cap.
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub
Crown D150 amp
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14 gauge, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
Nice jammies. And socks... What's your schedule for getting those bigguns recapped again?
I have those same house pants on right now! LOL
You guys share the same house pants? how cute
2Ch- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607, Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 1 and AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Signal Dig Coax, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung 55JS7000, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Marantz DV-4200 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII, Android Mi Box3 and Apple TV. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Polk Patio 25x4, Rotel RDV 1045 (as CDP) MIT AVT3 ICs - Work - Spotify Premium or Neutron App to my FiiO Kunlun into my Grado SR125e
I did pick up a new cart anyway, but never can have too many. I went with the Audio Technica 33PTG/2 and pretty much have it dialed in, but need to get back to it tomorrow. Also need to find some shorter screws.
That is sexy, right there Congrats!
Don't start measuring the thickness of your vinyl (or look for warps)...then you'll really drive yourself crazy.
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
Comments
Sun room: DIY Nelson Pass B1 w/Korg NuTube pre, Technics SL-1700 turntable, DIY Anaview d-class mono block amplfiers, JBL C50 Olympus speakers with custom Smith horns, Mapleshade Samson rack
Den: Onkyo TX-NR929 receiver, Oppo BDP-103 player, Behringer EP 4000 sub amp, Electrovoice DX-38 active, DIY EL-34 horn amp, Behringer NU6000 bass amp, Klipsch Jubilee speakers, Martin Logan Cinema center, JBL SAT2 surrounds, Danley DTS-10 sub
Dining room: Pro-Ject RPM 1 turntable, Shanling CD-T1500 SACD, Sumo Athena pre, SST Ampzilla 2000 amps, Quad 2905 speakers
Sun room: DIY Nelson Pass B1 w/Korg NuTube pre, Technics SL-1700 turntable, DIY Anaview d-class mono block amplfiers, JBL C50 Olympus speakers with custom Smith horns, Mapleshade Samson rack
Den: Onkyo TX-NR929 receiver, Oppo BDP-103 player, Behringer EP 4000 sub amp, Electrovoice DX-38 active, DIY EL-34 horn amp, Behringer NU6000 bass amp, Klipsch Jubilee speakers, Martin Logan Cinema center, JBL SAT2 surrounds, Danley DTS-10 sub
Dining room: Pro-Ject RPM 1 turntable, Shanling CD-T1500 SACD, Sumo Athena pre, SST Ampzilla 2000 amps, Quad 2905 speakers
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.
One down, one to go.
I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.
Does the "B" stand for back so you remember which side is which? Yeah, I'm old too...
Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Denon 2910, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's/ RTA8t
Vinyl: Fluance RT82 * Nagaoka MP-110 * Bottlehead Reduction + Integration Upgrade * KAB RF1
Video: Hisense 55H8F * Panasonic DMP-UB200 * ROKU Streaming Stick + * Z-line Designs Elektra
You mean, like writing "TGIF" on a pair of sneakers?
Close!
The cabinetmaker labeled one enclosure "A" and the other "B". The backs of the baffles are likewise labeled A and B. The speakers are also each labeled (1 and 2)
I actually have the measured T/S parameters of "1" and "2" so... it sort of matters. They are, fortunately, pretty close (not a given with drivers that are as old as I am -- perhaps even older).
PS both cabinets are now rewoofered with 515Bs. I had a town Finance Committee meeting tonight, so I haven't heard the pair -- yet.
Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
Thanks, I appreciate that.
I did pick up a new cart anyway, but never can have too many. I went with the Audio Technica 33PTG/2 and pretty much have it dialed in, but need to get back to it tomorrow. Also need to find some shorter screws.
This is in conjunction to the Cardas tonearm wire and Cardas Spiral air 1M interconnects, both are Litz style wires.
The results so far are excellent, I'm taken back at the moment at the level of air around the entire audio spectrum. Not overwhelming, but that sense of "being right there" really stands out, and not bright by any means, the highs are well controlled throughout.
I will revisit this, but for now I wanted to share my experience in leveling the table. I used a Starrett 98-8 level to get as much accuracy as I could, even though my regular bench level is adequate, I feel any amount of added accuracy is worth the trouble.
This Starrett is very sensitive, it will register the difference if I place a piece of register recipt under one end, each graduation is .005" per foot. The level would pick up a few deg of movement of the feet so this was a tedious task.
I've had good results with this mat, but cannot use a clamp due to he recessed center. Not trying to bash it, but was surprised at the deviation...and this likely wouldn't be an issue but the thickness varied at many points.
Once I realized this, I used a pair of calipers on the mat. The thickness varied from two points, 180 deg apart, from .1975" to .2060. This is somewhat depicted with the Starrett.
I'm currently using the stock rubber mat which is pretty much level, only a small variation but almost .009" across the other mat is still significant...unless I'm way overthinking it.
If you have the 1200, I highly reccommend at least these wire mods. This current setup is quite the upgrade from where it was.
Vinyl: Fluance RT82 * Nagaoka MP-110 * Bottlehead Reduction + Integration Upgrade * KAB RF1
Video: Hisense 55H8F * Panasonic DMP-UB200 * ROKU Streaming Stick + * Z-line Designs Elektra
Dual 1229Q into Pioneer SA-8100 driving a pair of Infinity Column II. Full disclosure: I was missing the left channel, so had to refresh headshell connections, and then all was well
I love these types of tests
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Sorry sir, but your egress is blocked by an 80lb amplifier. You'll have to move it. 😉
Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
My toes hurt just thinking about it.
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
I have those same house pants on right now! LOL
I swear by my life and my love of it that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine.” .
“If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
Polk 7B main speakers (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub
Crown D150 amp
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14 gauge, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
You guys share the same house pants? how cute
Maybe those pants were tucked inside the speakers as damping material?
Vinyl: Fluance RT82 * Nagaoka MP-110 * Bottlehead Reduction + Integration Upgrade * KAB RF1
Video: Hisense 55H8F * Panasonic DMP-UB200 * ROKU Streaming Stick + * Z-line Designs Elektra
He needs a pair of these tube socks.
(IMO, of course)
https://www.vivatubes.com/matched-pair-of-tube-socks/
I don't know if anyone's making transistor socks (or IC socks, for that matter).
Don't start measuring the thickness of your vinyl (or look for warps)...then you'll really drive yourself crazy.
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
That'll make the rig sound too sterile.
You'll need a pair of walken shoes to go with those tube socks.
Sometime this year!
Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub