In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence.
~ The best way to enjoy digital music reproduction is to never listen to good analogue reproduction ~
~ Not all things that can be measured can be heard and not all things heard can be measured ~
Yamaha RX-A2070, Music Hall A70.2 integrated amp, B&K 4420 Reference, Bluesound NODE 2i, HSU VTF-2 MK5, LSiM705, LSiM704, Technics PD867, Douglas Connection Alpha 12AWG OCC Speaker Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha Analog Interconnect Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 11 OCC Custom Power Cable, Cullen Gold Power Cable, Signal Power Cables, Furman PL-8C 15 Power Conditioner, Fluance RT85, Parasound Zphono USB Phono Preamp, Sony 65" 900F, Sony UBP-X700, Fios.
Some of you ask about the TR6: 1972, unrestored except for I did respray the hardtop and fixed a rip in the headliner. the soft top is original.
That's awesome.....thanks for sharing.
IIRC 1972 was a good year, maybe the last decent year for TR6s. ’73 or ‘74 and up pollution controls, though easily removed, strangled all the Brit imports.
Former MG Midget & Triumph GT6😊 owner.
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981 CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6 5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3 Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
Same was true of the 1972 Datsun 240Z which was the last year that wasn't strangled by emission controls. I bought a 1973 that I basically had to convert to a 72 by changing the carburetors, not to mention headers and a 2-1/2" exhaust. I miss that car......
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub
Crown D150 amp
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14 gauge, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
Bought an ''89 Dodge Shadow from AAFES while stationed in Germany. 4 spd manual, no air and a whopping 97 hp. About got run over on the Autobahn...lol.
Well, that's going to be part 2 of this endeavor. Once finished I leveled the table and went for a test run. I immediately heard a lot of distortion and shut it down. I double-checked the stylus and found that my DL301 Mk2 had the tip torn off.
Now I'm looking for an upgrade, been eyeballing the Audio Technica AT33SA or another Denon...the AT is pricey.
The following may ease your emotional pain, exonerate your family, but the financial pain remains...
According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.
I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.
Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981 CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6 5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3 Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
Well, that's going to be part 2 of this endeavor. Once finished I leveled the table and went for a test run. I immediately heard a lot of distortion and shut it down. I double-checked the stylus and found that my DL301 Mk2 had the tip torn off.
Now I'm looking for an upgrade, been eyeballing the Audio Technica AT33SA or another Denon...the AT is pricey.
The following may ease your emotional pain, exonerate your family, but the financial pain remains...
According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.
I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.
Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony
Thanks bud.
I've seen a few reviews of the suspension failing on some carts. Which is worrisome on the MC variants as it's not an easy, or cheap fix.
Hard to say why that has happened to others, could possibly be poor compliance matching of cart to tonearm, or just age of cart...or possibly a bad apple.
I've been using Denon LO and HO MC's for a long time and never had an issue. gmcman, PM me if you want I may have a spare I'd let go but I'll have to take a look.
Sorry about that tip gmcman I ruined a DL-301MkII cantilever (and coils) once. You can get yours re-tipped with a nude elliptical for about $175.
As far as something new, you might consider an AT-OC9...pick your flavor of them. I have a MkIII, and think it sounds quite good. And, they're cheaper than the AT33Sa.
Also popular are the Hana MC carts, although I have not heard one myself.
Btw, great work on re-wiring your 1200 tonearm
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
You guys are making great arguments to not have a turntable.
Bud - Silicon Valley
Lumin X1
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits.
But the chicks dig it.
It took me a few minutes to find a pic vanilla enough to post here.
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
I dislike taking 2-3 years to secure a new cart, mostly because my current configuration does not permit vinyl; after I relocate my system...
Meanwhile I’m open to LO MC* suggestion - to have something to save for/drool over. May need a “TT pre-amp” - I have 2-3 years to sort that out, too
*Circa 80s Rega Planar 3 w/their RB300 arm - quite the pain to set up but worth it.
Keep spinin’... Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981 CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6 5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3 Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
Building the cat proof SDA SRS exoskeleton enclosure covers inspired me to build a new subwoofer. I used the HSU Research VTF-3 250W plate amp and their 12" driver purchased from Parts Express and cloned the cabinet out of the same materials and to the same quality and dimensions as the original VTF-3 that I own. I maintained the Polk SRS styling queues in the home made "Polk Sub". It sounds EXACTLY like the VTF-3. Sorry, I don't now why the pics don't post in the order I loaded them.
I don't say this a lot but man those are bad azz.
Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member
About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.
One foot on audio nirvana and the other in the poor house.
Back home for the weekend and Installed two of these in my B&K monoblock. About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.
@Darqknight put some $$ fuses in his gear years ago and said he heard an immediate improvement too.
Both of your systems are top-shelf and I'm sure that has a lot to do with hearing the differences.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
Anyone who has a standard automotive fuse in the signal path of their system, whether in the amp or on the speaker, should seriously consider putting in one of these fuses. Almost makes me want to invest in the Synergistic Research fuses. Almost. As for using these in the power supply end I'm still a skeptic because I upgraded my power cables with no noticeable change. Of course I have a very good power source here in the PNW. Also each of my amps has 4 fuses in the power supply so this would be big bucks...
One foot on audio nirvana and the other in the poor house.
I googled that brand and thierbhime page shows $159.00 for ta fuse, that would cost more to replace than the 2 Emit tweeters they are protecting. I'd be more afraid of blowing the fuse than the tweeters.
I have no doubt they sound great as you described!
I went with a 7a fuse where the factory one was 6a because I didn't want to "blow" my money. Also this type of fuse is mainly intended to protect the speakers from DC voltage if something were to go wrong with the amp or if it went into clipping etc. As long as you are using clean, high quality components, that's not likely to happen... But if you are using a vintage receiver etc. you best keep one in there.
One foot on audio nirvana and the other in the poor house.
Comments
'72 Triumph TR-6
__________________
'88 Polk SDA SRS 1.2, with upgraded XO caps and Erse SDA inductors
'86 Polk SDA CRS+
'84 Polk Monitor 10A (Peerless tweeters)
'05 HSU VTF-3 Sub
'93 Carver TFM-35 (just because)
'88 Carver M-1.0t (just because)
'14 PGA2310 based custom remote volume control
'88 Adcom GFP-555
'88 Adcom GFA-555 (upgraded/restored)
'05 Onkyo DV-555 media
'89 Pioneer Laser Disc media
'89 Sony SuperBeta HiFi media
Tom
~ The best way to enjoy digital music reproduction is to never listen to good analogue reproduction ~
~ When the law ends, tyranny begins ~
Wow.
That's awesome.....thanks for sharing.
(didn't know wow was an adjective, did y'all?)
'72 Triumph TR-6
__________________
'88 Polk SDA SRS 1.2, with upgraded XO caps and Erse SDA inductors
'86 Polk SDA CRS+
'84 Polk Monitor 10A (Peerless tweeters)
'05 HSU VTF-3 Sub
'93 Carver TFM-35 (just because)
'88 Carver M-1.0t (just because)
'14 PGA2310 based custom remote volume control
'88 Adcom GFP-555
'88 Adcom GFA-555 (upgraded/restored)
'05 Onkyo DV-555 media
'89 Pioneer Laser Disc media
'89 Sony SuperBeta HiFi media
Former MG Midget & Triumph GT6😊 owner.
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
Polk 7B main speakers (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub
Crown D150 amp
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14 gauge, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
Dream car
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B001AIPXLC/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1
According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.
I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.
Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
Thanks bud.
I've seen a few reviews of the suspension failing on some carts. Which is worrisome on the MC variants as it's not an easy, or cheap fix.
Hard to say why that has happened to others, could possibly be poor compliance matching of cart to tonearm, or just age of cart...or possibly a bad apple.
As far as something new, you might consider an AT-OC9...pick your flavor of them. I have a MkIII, and think it sounds quite good. And, they're cheaper than the AT33Sa.
Also popular are the Hana MC carts, although I have not heard one myself.
Btw, great work on re-wiring your 1200 tonearm
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
Lumin X1
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits.
It took me a few minutes to find a pic vanilla enough to post here.
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
I dislike taking 2-3 years to secure a new cart, mostly because my current configuration does not permit vinyl; after I relocate my system...
Meanwhile I’m open to LO MC* suggestion - to have something to save for/drool over. May need a “TT pre-amp” - I have 2-3 years to sort that out, too
*Circa 80s Rega Planar 3 w/their RB300 arm - quite the pain to set up but worth it.
Keep spinin’... Tony
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
I don't say this a lot but man those are bad azz.
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
It’s supplementing MA Silver 1 bookshelves.
It never ceases to amaze me how a good low end improves the mids/highs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hi-Fi-TUNING-Silver-Star-Fuses-LARGE-6-3x32mm-FAST-BLO-Types-60-Off/371946656065?
About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.
@Darqknight put some $$ fuses in his gear years ago and said he heard an immediate improvement too.
Both of your systems are top-shelf and I'm sure that has a lot to do with hearing the differences.
Yup, I think that's what Raife used also.
I have no doubt they sound great as you described!