What did you do to your stereo rig today?
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DATSUN fan boy right here buddy. Grew up riding in a 68 Roadster 2000 SRL311.
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I had a Datsun B210 it had 19 micro horses under the hood.
Dream car
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Bought an ''89 Dodge Shadow from AAFES while stationed in Germany. 4 spd manual, no air and a whopping 97 hp. About got run over on the Autobahn...lol.
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The following may ease your emotional pain, exonerate your family, but the financial pain remains...Well, that's going to be part 2 of this endeavor. Once finished I leveled the table and went for a test run. I immediately heard a lot of distortion and shut it down. I double-checked the stylus and found that my DL301 Mk2 had the tip torn off.
Now I'm looking for an upgrade, been eyeballing the Audio Technica AT33SA or another Denon...the AT is pricey.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B001AIPXLC/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1
According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.
I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.
Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
The following may ease your emotional pain, exonerate your family, but the financial pain remains...Well, that's going to be part 2 of this endeavor. Once finished I leveled the table and went for a test run. I immediately heard a lot of distortion and shut it down. I double-checked the stylus and found that my DL301 Mk2 had the tip torn off.
Now I'm looking for an upgrade, been eyeballing the Audio Technica AT33SA or another Denon...the AT is pricey.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B001AIPXLC/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1
According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.
I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.
Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony
Thanks bud.
I've seen a few reviews of the suspension failing on some carts. Which is worrisome on the MC variants as it's not an easy, or cheap fix.
Hard to say why that has happened to others, could possibly be poor compliance matching of cart to tonearm, or just age of cart...or possibly a bad apple. -
I've been using Denon LO and HO MC's for a long time and never had an issue. gmcman, PM me if you want I may have a spare I'd let go but I'll have to take a look.
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Sorry about that tip gmcman
I ruined a DL-301MkII cantilever (and coils) once. You can get yours re-tipped with a nude elliptical for about $175.
As far as something new, you might consider an AT-OC9...pick your flavor of them. I have a MkIII, and think it sounds quite good. And, they're cheaper than the AT33Sa.
Also popular are the Hana MC carts, although I have not heard one myself.
Btw, great work on re-wiring your 1200 tonearm
"This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon -
You guys are making great arguments to not have a turntable.
Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
But the chicks dig it.
It took me a few minutes to find a pic vanilla enough to post here."This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon -
Well I plan to stay the TT course.
I dislike taking 2-3 years to secure a new cart, mostly because my current configuration does not permit vinyl; after I relocate my system...
Meanwhile I’m open to LO MC* suggestion - to have something to save for/drool over. May need a “TT pre-amp” - I have 2-3 years to sort that out, too
*Circa 80s Rega Planar 3 w/their RB300 arm - quite the pain to set up but worth it.
Keep spinin’... TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Building the cat proof SDA SRS exoskeleton enclosure covers inspired me to build a new subwoofer. I used the HSU Research VTF-3 250W plate amp and their 12" driver purchased from Parts Express and cloned the cabinet out of the same materials and to the same quality and dimensions as the original VTF-3 that I own. I maintained the Polk SRS styling queues in the home made "Polk Sub". It sounds EXACTLY like the VTF-3. Sorry, I don't now why the pics don't post in the order I loaded them.
I don't say this a lot but man those are bad azz.
Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member -
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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Last night I picked up an Axiom Audio EP175 powered sub for just over a Benjamin!
It’s supplementing MA Silver 1 bookshelves.
It never ceases to amaze me how a good low end improves the mids/highs.
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Back home for the weekend and Installed two of these in my B&K monoblock.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hi-Fi-TUNING-Silver-Star-Fuses-LARGE-6-3x32mm-FAST-BLO-Types-60-Off/371946656065?
About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.Gustard X26 Pro DACBelles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme capsB&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgradedPolk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va DreadnaughtWireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cablesHarman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
Back home for the weekend and Installed two of these in my B&K monoblock. About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.
@Darqknight put some $$ fuses in his gear years ago and said he heard an immediate improvement too.
Both of your systems are top-shelf and I'm sure that has a lot to do with hearing the differences. Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Sorry forgot to add the link to what I got. It's in my previous postGustard X26 Pro DACBelles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme capsB&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgradedPolk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va DreadnaughtWireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cablesHarman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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Sorry forgot to add the link to what I got. It's in my previous post
Yup, I think that's what Raife used also.Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Anyone who has a standard automotive fuse in the signal path of their system, whether in the amp or on the speaker, should seriously consider putting in one of these fuses. Almost makes me want to invest in the Synergistic Research fuses. Almost. As for using these in the power supply end I'm still a skeptic because I upgraded my power cables with no noticeable change. Of course I have a very good power source here in the PNW. Also each of my amps has 4 fuses in the power supply so this would be big bucks...Gustard X26 Pro DACBelles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme capsB&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgradedPolk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va DreadnaughtWireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cablesHarman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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I googled that brand and thierbhime page shows $159.00 for ta fuse, that would cost more to replace than the 2 Emit tweeters they are protecting. I'd be more afraid of blowing the fuse than the tweeters.
I have no doubt they sound great as you described! -
I went with a 7a fuse where the factory one was 6a because I didn't want to "blow" my money. Also this type of fuse is mainly intended to protect the speakers from DC voltage if something were to go wrong with the amp or if it went into clipping etc. As long as you are using clean, high quality components, that's not likely to happen... But if you are using a vintage receiver etc. you best keep one in there.Gustard X26 Pro DACBelles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme capsB&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgradedPolk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va DreadnaughtWireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cablesHarman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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Earlier this week I accidently hooked up the fixed output of a tuner which sent the full power of a Proton d1200 power amp into my khorns. Why are those rca jacks so close together and so hard to read especially in the dark on a chrome chassis. Thankfully the 1 1/4 amp fuse on the horns blew quickly. Once my heart rate got back to normal (100wpc into 105db sensitive speakers is stupid loud in case anyone is wondering) I started thinking how glad I was that those blown fuses weren't the $100+ type. Plus those generic fuses did their job and saved the horns from certain destruction.
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The only constant is change. I added a Pro-Ject RPM 1 to this system.
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While I was at it, I swapped in a Technics SL-1700 to this system.
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The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.
One down, one to go.
I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.
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mhardy6647 wrote: »The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.
One down, one to go.
I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.
Does the "B" stand for back so you remember which side is which? Yeah, I'm old too... -
Taking an integrated amp for a spin
Post edited by halo on -
ken brydson wrote: »mhardy6647 wrote: »The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.
One down, one to go.
I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.
Does the "B" stand for back so you remember which side is which? Yeah, I'm old too...
You mean, like writing "TGIF" on a pair of sneakers?Toes go in first.
Close!
The cabinetmaker labeled one enclosure "A" and the other "B". The backs of the baffles are likewise labeled A and B. The speakers are also each labeled (1 and 2)
I actually have the measured T/S parameters of "1" and "2" so... it sort of matters. They are, fortunately, pretty close (not a given with drivers that are as old as I am -- perhaps even older).
PS both cabinets are now rewoofered with 515Bs. I had a town Finance Committee meeting tonight, so I haven't heard the pair -- yet.
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That’s common practice for cabinet makers. My dad was one and all drawers were labeled, along with other parts that could be swapped.
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I've been using Denon LO and HO MC's for a long time and never had an issue. gmcman, PM me if you want I may have a spare I'd let go but I'll have to take a look.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
I did pick up a new cart anyway, but never can have too many. I went with the Audio Technica 33PTG/2 and pretty much have it dialed in, but need to get back to it tomorrow. Also need to find some shorter screws.
This is in conjunction to the Cardas tonearm wire and Cardas Spiral air 1M interconnects, both are Litz style wires.
The results so far are excellent, I'm taken back at the moment at the level of air around the entire audio spectrum. Not overwhelming, but that sense of "being right there" really stands out, and not bright by any means, the highs are well controlled throughout.
I will revisit this, but for now I wanted to share my experience in leveling the table. I used a Starrett 98-8 level to get as much accuracy as I could, even though my regular bench level is adequate, I feel any amount of added accuracy is worth the trouble.
This Starrett is very sensitive, it will register the difference if I place a piece of register recipt under one end, each graduation is .005" per foot. The level would pick up a few deg of movement of the feet so this was a tedious task.
I've had good results with this mat, but cannot use a clamp due to he recessed center. Not trying to bash it, but was surprised at the deviation...and this likely wouldn't be an issue but the thickness varied at many points.
Once I realized this, I used a pair of calipers on the mat. The thickness varied from two points, 180 deg apart, from .1975" to .2060. This is somewhat depicted with the Starrett.
I'm currently using the stock rubber mat which is pretty much level, only a small variation but almost .009" across the other mat is still significant...unless I'm way overthinking it.
If you have the 1200, I highly reccommend at least these wire mods. This current setup is quite the upgrade from where it was.
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That level is awesome. I need one of those in my life at some point.
