What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 27,560
    Both are wow vehicles.
    (didn't know wow was an adjective, did y'all?)
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  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 9,299
    I guess y'all don't have salt on the roads down in Tennessee? B)
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  • OldmanSRS
    OldmanSRS Posts: 416
    This year only one time and the rain washed it off the next day. I don't drive them on salty roads, ever.
    '65 427 Shelby AC Cobra
    '72 Triumph TR-6
    __________________
    '88 Polk SDA SRS 1.2, with upgraded XO caps and Erse SDA inductors
    '86 Polk SDA CRS+
    '84 Polk Monitor 10A (Peerless tweeters)
    '05 HSU VTF-3 Sub (Original OEM)
    '20 HSU VTF-3 Sub (three more, 100% cloned)
    '93 Carver TFM-35
    '88 Carver M-1.0t
    '14 PGA2310 based custom remote volume control
    '88 Adcom GFP-555
    '88 Adcom GFA-555 (upgraded/restored)
    '88 Adcom GFA-555 (a second one upgraded/restored)
    '88 Adcom GFT-555
    '05 Onkyo DV-555 media
    '89 Fosgate 360 Digital Space Matrix
    '89 Fosgate 360 Digital Space Matrix (a second one)
    '91 Kenwood Basic M1D Amp
    '89 Pioneer Laser Disc media
    '89 Sony SuperBeta HiFi media
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  • indyhawg
    indyhawg Posts: 1,564
    Love that TR6.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,685
    edited February 2020
    OldmanSRS wrote: »
    Some of you ask about the TR6: 1972, unrestored except for I did respray the hardtop and fixed a rip in the headliner. the soft top is original.


    That's awesome.....thanks for sharing.
    IIRC 1972 was a good year, maybe the last decent year for TR6s. ’73 or ‘74 and up pollution controls, though easily removed, strangled all the Brit imports.
    Former MG Midget & Triumph GT6😊 owner.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 1,946
    Same was true of the 1972 Datsun 240Z which was the last year that wasn't strangled by emission controls. I bought a 1973 that I basically had to convert to a 72 by changing the carburetors, not to mention headers and a 2-1/2" exhaust. I miss that car......
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,273
    edited February 2020
    DATSUN fan boy right here buddy. Grew up riding in a 68 Roadster 2000 SRL311.
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  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,039
    Bought an ''89 Dodge Shadow from AAFES while stationed in Germany. 4 spd manual, no air and a whopping 97 hp. About got run over on the Autobahn...lol.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,685
    gmcman wrote: »
    Well, that's going to be part 2 of this endeavor. Once finished I leveled the table and went for a test run. I immediately heard a lot of distortion and shut it down. I double-checked the stylus and found that my DL301 Mk2 had the tip torn off.

    3yxhyfktqjep.jpg

    Now I'm looking for an upgrade, been eyeballing the Audio Technica AT33SA or another Denon...the AT is pricey.
    The following may ease your emotional pain, exonerate your family, but the financial pain remains...

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B001AIPXLC/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1

    According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.

    I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.

    Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,616
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    gmcman wrote: »
    Well, that's going to be part 2 of this endeavor. Once finished I leveled the table and went for a test run. I immediately heard a lot of distortion and shut it down. I double-checked the stylus and found that my DL301 Mk2 had the tip torn off.

    3yxhyfktqjep.jpg

    Now I'm looking for an upgrade, been eyeballing the Audio Technica AT33SA or another Denon...the AT is pricey.
    The following may ease your emotional pain, exonerate your family, but the financial pain remains...

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B001AIPXLC/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1

    According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.

    I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.

    Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony

    Thanks bud.

    I've seen a few reviews of the suspension failing on some carts. Which is worrisome on the MC variants as it's not an easy, or cheap fix.

    Hard to say why that has happened to others, could possibly be poor compliance matching of cart to tonearm, or just age of cart...or possibly a bad apple.
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  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 9,299
    I've been using Denon LO and HO MC's for a long time and never had an issue. gmcman, PM me if you want I may have a spare I'd let go but I'll have to take a look.
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  • jdjohn
    jdjohn Posts: 1,987
    Sorry about that tip gmcman :/ I ruined a DL-301MkII cantilever (and coils) once. You can get yours re-tipped with a nude elliptical for about $175.

    As far as something new, you might consider an AT-OC9...pick your flavor of them. I have a MkIII, and think it sounds quite good. And, they're cheaper than the AT33Sa.

    Also popular are the Hana MC carts, although I have not heard one myself.

    Btw, great work on re-wiring your 1200 tonearm B)
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
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  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 14,525
    You guys are making great arguments to not have a turntable. :)
    Lumin X1 file player
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
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  • jdjohn
    jdjohn Posts: 1,987
    But the chicks dig it.
    6yun9milr2nt.jpg
    It took me a few minutes to find a pic vanilla enough to post here.
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,685
    Well I plan to stay the TT course.

    I dislike taking 2-3 years to secure a new cart, mostly because my current configuration does not permit vinyl; after I relocate my system...

    Meanwhile I’m open to LO MC* suggestion - to have something to save for/drool over. May need a “TT pre-amp” - I have 2-3 years to sort that out, too
    *Circa 80s Rega Planar 3 w/their RB300 arm - quite the pain to set up but worth it.

    Keep spinin’... Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • codycatalist
    codycatalist Posts: 2,661
    OldmanSRS wrote: »
    Building the cat proof SDA SRS exoskeleton enclosure covers inspired me to build a new subwoofer. I used the HSU Research VTF-3 250W plate amp and their 12" driver purchased from Parts Express and cloned the cabinet out of the same materials and to the same quality and dimensions as the original VTF-3 that I own. I maintained the Polk SRS styling queues in the home made "Polk Sub". It sounds EXACTLY like the VTF-3. Sorry, I don't now why the pics don't post in the order I loaded them.


    3l2qc52evkwc.jpg
    p68djzuy2swu.jpg

    I don't say this a lot but man those are bad azz.

    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
    "Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
    "Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
    "Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,685
    edited February 2020
    codycatalist wrote: »
    OldmanSRS wrote: »
    p68djzuy2swu.jpg

    I don't say this a lot but man those are bad azz.
    use heavier wire - at least 12 ga. If you’re using that - my bad

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 81
    Last night I picked up an Axiom Audio EP175 powered sub for just over a Benjamin!

    It’s supplementing MA Silver 1 bookshelves.

    It never ceases to amaze me how a good low end improves the mids/highs.

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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 3,417
    edited February 2020
    Back home for the weekend and Installed two of these in my B&K monoblock.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hi-Fi-TUNING-Silver-Star-Fuses-LARGE-6-3x32mm-FAST-BLO-Types-60-Off/371946656065?

    About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 9,779
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Back home for the weekend and Installed two of these in my B&K monoblock. About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.

    @Darqknight put some $$ fuses in his gear years ago and said he heard an immediate improvement too.

    Both of your systems are top-shelf and I'm sure that has a lot to do with hearing the differences. B)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 3,417
    Sorry forgot to add the link to what I got. It's in my previous post
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
    · Share on TwitterShare on Facebook
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 9,779
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Sorry forgot to add the link to what I got. It's in my previous post

    Yup, I think that's what Raife used also.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 3,417
    edited February 2020
    Anyone who has a standard automotive fuse in the signal path of their system, whether in the amp or on the speaker, should seriously consider putting in one of these fuses. Almost makes me want to invest in the Synergistic Research fuses. Almost. As for using these in the power supply end I'm still a skeptic because I upgraded my power cables with no noticeable change. Of course I have a very good power source here in the PNW. Also each of my amps has 4 fuses in the power supply so this would be big bucks...
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
    · Share on TwitterShare on Facebook
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,273
    edited February 2020
    I googled that brand and thierbhime page shows $159.00 for ta fuse, that would cost more to replace than the 2 Emit tweeters they are protecting. I'd be more afraid of blowing the fuse than the tweeters.

    I have no doubt they sound great as you described!
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 3,417
    edited February 2020
    I went with a 7a fuse where the factory one was 6a because I didn't want to "blow" my money. Also this type of fuse is mainly intended to protect the speakers from DC voltage if something were to go wrong with the amp or if it went into clipping etc. As long as you are using clean, high quality components, that's not likely to happen... But if you are using a vintage receiver etc. you best keep one in there.
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
    · Share on TwitterShare on Facebook
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 1,627
    Earlier this week I accidently hooked up the fixed output of a tuner which sent the full power of a Proton d1200 power amp into my khorns. Why are those rca jacks so close together and so hard to read especially in the dark on a chrome chassis. Thankfully the 1 1/4 amp fuse on the horns blew quickly. Once my heart rate got back to normal (100wpc into 105db sensitive speakers is stupid loud in case anyone is wondering) I started thinking how glad I was that those blown fuses weren't the $100+ type. Plus those generic fuses did their job and saved the horns from certain destruction.
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