What did you do to your stereo rig today?

CH46E

DATSUN fan boy right here buddy. Grew up riding in a 68 Roadster 2000 SRL311.

pitdogg2

I had a Datsun B210 it had 19 micro horses under the hood.
Dream car

deronb1

Bought an ''89 Dodge Shadow from AAFES while stationed in Germany. 4 spd manual, no air and a whopping 97 hp. About got run over on the Autobahn...lol.

gp4jesus

gmcman wrote: »

Well, that's going to be part 2 of this endeavor. Once finished I leveled the table and went for a test run. I immediately heard a lot of distortion and shut it down. I double-checked the stylus and found that my DL301 Mk2 had the tip torn off.



Now I'm looking for an upgrade, been eyeballing the Audio Technica AT33SA or another Denon...the AT is pricey.

The following may ease your emotional pain, exonerate your family, but the financial pain remains...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B001AIPXLC/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1

According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.

I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.

Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony

gmcman

gp4jesus wrote: »

gmcman wrote: »

Well, that's going to be part 2 of this endeavor. Once finished I leveled the table and went for a test run. I immediately heard a lot of distortion and shut it down. I double-checked the stylus and found that my DL301 Mk2 had the tip torn off.



Now I'm looking for an upgrade, been eyeballing the Audio Technica AT33SA or another Denon...the AT is pricey.

The following may ease your emotional pain, exonerate your family, but the financial pain remains...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B001AIPXLC/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1

According to this Amazon review, the only 1 ⭐️, you may not be alone. It’s possible the vinyl may have torn off the stylus the instant it made contact w/the vinyl.

I was curious to see what other “Fans of Vinyl” were using. I like the “higher output” low output spec, .4mV. But that occasional losing of stylus has me looking elsewhere.

Again, my condolences 😢. I hope that record is still intact. Tony

Thanks bud.

I've seen a few reviews of the suspension failing on some carts. Which is worrisome on the MC variants as it's not an easy, or cheap fix.

Hard to say why that has happened to others, could possibly be poor compliance matching of cart to tonearm, or just age of cart...or possibly a bad apple.

dromunds

I've been using Denon LO and HO MC's for a long time and never had an issue. gmcman, PM me if you want I may have a spare I'd let go but I'll have to take a look.

jdjohn

Sorry about that tip gmcman I ruined a DL-301MkII cantilever (and coils) once. You can get yours re-tipped with a nude elliptical for about $175.

As far as something new, you might consider an AT-OC9...pick your flavor of them. I have a MkIII, and think it sounds quite good. And, they're cheaper than the AT33Sa.

Also popular are the Hana MC carts, although I have not heard one myself.

Btw, great work on re-wiring your 1200 tonearm

BlueFox

You guys are making great arguments to not have a turntable.

jdjohn

But the chicks dig it.

It took me a few minutes to find a pic vanilla enough to post here.

gp4jesus

Well I plan to stay the TT course.

I dislike taking 2-3 years to secure a new cart, mostly because my current configuration does not permit vinyl; after I relocate my system...

Meanwhile I’m open to LO MC* suggestion - to have something to save for/drool over. May need a “TT pre-amp” - I have 2-3 years to sort that out, too
*Circa 80s Rega Planar 3 w/their RB300 arm - quite the pain to set up but worth it.

Keep spinin’... Tony

codycatalist

OldmanSRS wrote: »

Building the cat proof SDA SRS exoskeleton enclosure covers inspired me to build a new subwoofer. I used the HSU Research VTF-3 250W plate amp and their 12" driver purchased from Parts Express and cloned the cabinet out of the same materials and to the same quality and dimensions as the original VTF-3 that I own. I maintained the Polk SRS styling queues in the home made "Polk Sub". It sounds EXACTLY like the VTF-3. Sorry, I don't now why the pics don't post in the order I loaded them.

I don't say this a lot but man those are bad azz.

gp4jesus

codycatalist wrote: »

OldmanSRS wrote: »

I don't say this a lot but man those are bad azz.

use heavier wire - at least 12 ga. If you’re using that - my bad

jbreezy5

Last night I picked up an Axiom Audio EP175 powered sub for just over a Benjamin!

It’s supplementing MA Silver 1 bookshelves.

It never ceases to amaze me how a good low end improves the mids/highs.

audioluvr

Back home for the weekend and Installed two of these in my B&K monoblock.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hi-Fi-TUNING-Silver-Star-Fuses-LARGE-6-3x32mm-FAST-BLO-Types-60-Off/371946656065?

About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.

Tony M

audioluvr wrote: »

Back home for the weekend and Installed two of these in my B&K monoblock. About all I can afford right now anyways. There is a fuse right before the positive speaker terminal in the back and I often wondered if this was affecting the sound. Partsconnexion has these on closeout for $24 ea. so I figured WTH right? With all the other stuff we spend our money on. Initial impressions are VERY positive. Could be the booze and I'm really tired from travelling but the upper registers are more crisp and accurate.

@Darqknight put some $$ fuses in his gear years ago and said he heard an immediate improvement too.

Both of your systems are top-shelf and I'm sure that has a lot to do with hearing the differences.

audioluvr

Sorry forgot to add the link to what I got. It's in my previous post

Tony M

audioluvr wrote: »

Sorry forgot to add the link to what I got. It's in my previous post

Yup, I think that's what Raife used also.

audioluvr

Anyone who has a standard automotive fuse in the signal path of their system, whether in the amp or on the speaker, should seriously consider putting in one of these fuses. Almost makes me want to invest in the Synergistic Research fuses. Almost. As for using these in the power supply end I'm still a skeptic because I upgraded my power cables with no noticeable change. Of course I have a very good power source here in the PNW. Also each of my amps has 4 fuses in the power supply so this would be big bucks...

CH46E

I googled that brand and thierbhime page shows $159.00 for ta fuse, that would cost more to replace than the 2 Emit tweeters they are protecting. I'd be more afraid of blowing the fuse than the tweeters.

I have no doubt they sound great as you described!

audioluvr

I went with a 7a fuse where the factory one was 6a because I didn't want to "blow" my money. Also this type of fuse is mainly intended to protect the speakers from DC voltage if something were to go wrong with the amp or if it went into clipping etc. As long as you are using clean, high quality components, that's not likely to happen... But if you are using a vintage receiver etc. you best keep one in there.

motorstereo

Earlier this week I accidently hooked up the fixed output of a tuner which sent the full power of a Proton d1200 power amp into my khorns. Why are those rca jacks so close together and so hard to read especially in the dark on a chrome chassis. Thankfully the 1 1/4 amp fuse on the horns blew quickly. Once my heart rate got back to normal (100wpc into 105db sensitive speakers is stupid loud in case anyone is wondering) I started thinking how glad I was that those blown fuses weren't the $100+ type. Plus those generic fuses did their job and saved the horns from certain destruction.

Wardsweb

The only constant is change. I added a Pro-Ject RPM 1 to this system.

Wardsweb

While I was at it, I swapped in a Technics SL-1700 to this system.

mhardy6647

The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.

One down, one to go.





I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.

ken brydson

mhardy6647 wrote: »

The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.

One down, one to go.





I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.

Does the "B" stand for back so you remember which side is which? Yeah, I'm old too...

halo

Taking an integrated amp for a spin

mhardy6647

ken brydson wrote: »

mhardy6647 wrote: »

The Frankenaltecs are in the midst of a heart woofer transplant.
Since I am only using the woofer sections of the 604Es at this point anyway, and since the opportunity presented itself, I am swapping out the Duplexes for a gorgeous (and - currently - borrowed!) pair of 515Bs.

One down, one to go.





I fired it up to give a listen -- and I cannot stop long enough to do the other one.

Does the "B" stand for back so you remember which side is which? Yeah, I'm old too...

You mean, like writing "TGIF" on a pair of sneakers?

Toes go in first.

Close!
The cabinetmaker labeled one enclosure "A" and the other "B". The backs of the baffles are likewise labeled A and B. The speakers are also each labeled (1 and 2)
I actually have the measured T/S parameters of "1" and "2" so... it sort of matters. They are, fortunately, pretty close (not a given with drivers that are as old as I am -- perhaps even older).


PS both cabinets are now rewoofered with 515Bs. I had a town Finance Committee meeting tonight, so I haven't heard the pair -- yet.

maxward

That’s common practice for cabinet makers. My dad was one and all drawers were labeled, along with other parts that could be swapped.

gmcman

dromunds wrote: »

I've been using Denon LO and HO MC's for a long time and never had an issue. gmcman, PM me if you want I may have a spare I'd let go but I'll have to take a look.

Thanks, I appreciate that.

I did pick up a new cart anyway, but never can have too many. I went with the Audio Technica 33PTG/2 and pretty much have it dialed in, but need to get back to it tomorrow. Also need to find some shorter screws.



This is in conjunction to the Cardas tonearm wire and Cardas Spiral air 1M interconnects, both are Litz style wires.

The results so far are excellent, I'm taken back at the moment at the level of air around the entire audio spectrum. Not overwhelming, but that sense of "being right there" really stands out, and not bright by any means, the highs are well controlled throughout.

I will revisit this, but for now I wanted to share my experience in leveling the table. I used a Starrett 98-8 level to get as much accuracy as I could, even though my regular bench level is adequate, I feel any amount of added accuracy is worth the trouble.

This Starrett is very sensitive, it will register the difference if I place a piece of register recipt under one end, each graduation is .005" per foot. The level would pick up a few deg of movement of the feet so this was a tedious task.





I've had good results with this mat, but cannot use a clamp due to he recessed center. Not trying to bash it, but was surprised at the deviation...and this likely wouldn't be an issue but the thickness varied at many points.





Once I realized this, I used a pair of calipers on the mat. The thickness varied from two points, 180 deg apart, from .1975" to .2060. This is somewhat depicted with the Starrett.

I'm currently using the stock rubber mat which is pretty much level, only a small variation but almost .009" across the other mat is still significant...unless I'm way overthinking it.

If you have the 1200, I highly reccommend at least these wire mods. This current setup is quite the upgrade from where it was.

Clipdat

That level is awesome. I need one of those in my life at some point.