Spearker cables..fact or fiction?
Comments
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CAT5e is rated for 350Mhz, bend radius is 4 times the diameter of the cable.
Runs are limited out at 328ft but with most modern transceivers you can get 380ft.
No more than 1/2 inch of untwisted pair for termination due to NXT. Been doing plenty of POE with CAT5 as of late. Can't wait the for the next standard: 32Watts baby! -
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Somebody PLEASE print this up in poster size! I'll pay you for it.
That's a keeper. -
Somebody PLEASE print this up in poster size! I'll pay you for it.
That's a keeper.
I gotcha 8.5x11 buddy, but that is all I can do. Download it and bring it to kinky's. Edit pick up 10 copies;) Great stocking stuffer for some Polkies;)Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
comfortablycurt wrote: »I think this is the one that I want in poster size.
I want one of those too. The only thing is I am dissapointed that my name didn't make it on there:(Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
I want one of those too. The only thing is I am dissapointed that my name didn't make it on there:(
Yes...I was disappointed that I wasn't included too. Perhaps we can get a modified version?:pThe nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
Well I would say something smart, but according to the newbs lately I can't:(Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
I have the picture of the cat.:p It is heavy. :p:pLiving room
Speakers: McIntosh XR100 Fronts, LSIM707 Fronts, LSIM 706 Center, LSIM 703 Surrounds, LSi/FX Surround backs.
Player: Oppo 95.
Amps: Bryston 4B SST, B&K Ref 200.7 S2.
Pres: B&K Ref 50 S2, Paraound P5.
Subs: Dual Rythmik F15HP subs.
Man Cave
Speakers: Martin Logan Vistas.
Player: OPPO 105.
Preamp: B&K Ref 50 S2.
Amp: B&K Ref 125.2 S2
Sub: Rythmik F12.
Sub management: SMS-1.
Headphones: HD800, HD380, RS220, SRH-1840. Headphone amp: Woo WA2.
Room treatment: GIK Room Kit #1. -
comfortablycurt wrote: »I think this is the one that I want in poster size.
Hey curt, SHUT UP!!! This here's about spearker wires... keap yer Emohtuva comments in the Emohtuva thred.:mad:
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mdaudioguy wrote: »Hey curt, SHUT UP!!! This here's about spearker wires... keap yer Emohtuva comments in the Emohtuva thred.:mad:
lmao
I'm still trying to figure out what a spearker cable is.The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
Bump, back to the top we go!:)
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EDIT: never mind. No more 'cable' posts for me...
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EDIT: ditto!
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Do any of you Cat5 guru's even know what the rated characteristics are with Cat5 wire before you have altered it's capabilities?
Come on Cat5 guru's. You can answer that one simple question, right?
Those with degrees should be able to tell me over what kind of length and degree of bend, along with the amount of bending limits acceptable before you are now out of tolerable range of specifications for the electrical performance as well.
+1
That is what I want to know also. While waiting for the answer, I am making one and check it out myself. Anyway, it was fun for me to experience making speaker cable.Living room
Speakers: McIntosh XR100 Fronts, LSIM707 Fronts, LSIM 706 Center, LSIM 703 Surrounds, LSi/FX Surround backs.
Player: Oppo 95.
Amps: Bryston 4B SST, B&K Ref 200.7 S2.
Pres: B&K Ref 50 S2, Paraound P5.
Subs: Dual Rythmik F15HP subs.
Man Cave
Speakers: Martin Logan Vistas.
Player: OPPO 105.
Preamp: B&K Ref 50 S2.
Amp: B&K Ref 125.2 S2
Sub: Rythmik F12.
Sub management: SMS-1.
Headphones: HD800, HD380, RS220, SRH-1840. Headphone amp: Woo WA2.
Room treatment: GIK Room Kit #1. -
suprafantx wrote: »+1
That is what I want to know also. While waiting for the answer, I am making one and check it out myself. Anyway, it was fun for me to experience making speaker cable.
What, this post not enough? -
Bottom line is some people have had good luck and others no luck and yet more bad luck with Cat 5. I don't have the time or want to put forth the effort to build a pair to find out. I'm perfectly happy with the synergy provided by my MIT's.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Bottom line is some people have had good luck and others no luck and yet more bad luck with Cat 5. I don't have the time or want to put forth the effort to build a pair to find out. I'm perfectly happy with the synergy provided by my MIT's.
H9
My experienment is fust for fun. I don't care if it is good or bad at the end. I do not use cat 5 cable. I am using cat 6 shielded cable because I talked to a friend and he explained to me that a good cable is not only base on the quality of the cooper or silver wires, the shield also is an important part of quality cable.
The reasons I picked cat 6 shielded cable:
1) It is better than cat 5.
2) It is shielded.
3) Very easy to customize the size of the speaker wires ( add on latter if I want to):pLiving room
Speakers: McIntosh XR100 Fronts, LSIM707 Fronts, LSIM 706 Center, LSIM 703 Surrounds, LSi/FX Surround backs.
Player: Oppo 95.
Amps: Bryston 4B SST, B&K Ref 200.7 S2.
Pres: B&K Ref 50 S2, Paraound P5.
Subs: Dual Rythmik F15HP subs.
Man Cave
Speakers: Martin Logan Vistas.
Player: OPPO 105.
Preamp: B&K Ref 50 S2.
Amp: B&K Ref 125.2 S2
Sub: Rythmik F12.
Sub management: SMS-1.
Headphones: HD800, HD380, RS220, SRH-1840. Headphone amp: Woo WA2.
Room treatment: GIK Room Kit #1. -
suprafantx wrote: »My experienment is fust for fun. I don't care if it is good or bad at the end. I do not use cat 5 cable. I am using cat 6 shielded cable because I talked to a friend and he explained to me that a good cable is not only base on the quality of the cooper or silver wires, the shield also is an important part of quality cable.
The reasons I picked cat 6 shielded cable:
1) It is better than cat 5.
2) It is shielded.
3) Very easy to customize the size of the speaker wires ( add on latter if I want to):p
Have you been able to do any listening tests? I'm curious how they sound and to learn what other cables you have for comparison.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »Have you been able to do any listening tests?
No, not yet.Living room
Speakers: McIntosh XR100 Fronts, LSIM707 Fronts, LSIM 706 Center, LSIM 703 Surrounds, LSi/FX Surround backs.
Player: Oppo 95.
Amps: Bryston 4B SST, B&K Ref 200.7 S2.
Pres: B&K Ref 50 S2, Paraound P5.
Subs: Dual Rythmik F15HP subs.
Man Cave
Speakers: Martin Logan Vistas.
Player: OPPO 105.
Preamp: B&K Ref 50 S2.
Amp: B&K Ref 125.2 S2
Sub: Rythmik F12.
Sub management: SMS-1.
Headphones: HD800, HD380, RS220, SRH-1840. Headphone amp: Woo WA2.
Room treatment: GIK Room Kit #1. -
Curt you nimrod. You honestly don't know what a spearker cable is?
I'll tell ya what a spearker cable is...It's what them pygmy dudes in Africa use. They tie it on the end of their spears so they don't lose em'.
I'll put it in JVC terms for ya...
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=idiot+strings
Ahhh...I get it now. I don't know how I could have missed that.
So what's with all the off-topic discussion about speaker cables in this thread?
Let's get it back on topic. What kind of spearker cables does everyone prefer? I've been having trouble with losing my spears lately, it sounds like a spearker cable is just what I need.The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
comfortablycurt wrote: »Ahhh...I get it now. I don't know how I could have missed that.
So what's with all the off-topic discussion about speaker cables in this thread?
Let's get it back on topic. What kind of spearker cables does everyone prefer? I've been having trouble with losing my spears lately, it sounds like a spearker cable is just what I need.
Actually, I'm not sure more than one or two posts in this thread have been "on" topic as you correctly noted the original poster inquired about "speaRker"cables.
The careful reader might also recall he wrote about ". . . "DAM DIFFERENCE", . . . "some violin thing". . . "classic music" . . . "being riiped off" . . . "jokeing" . . . and that "sound is precived".
Even after 1,059 posts, we've not properly addressed those issues either.
Dam Difference: Hoover vs. Aswan?
some violin thing: Charlie Daniels fiddle?
classic music: Yes, Genesis, Pink Floyd, Deep Purple, Led Zep?
being riiped off - sold overripe fruit?
jokeing: small man attempting humor on horseback?
precived: a thick yellowish musky-odored substance found in a sac near the **** of the civet?VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
String Theory?Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
HEHEHE its me again!.I thought this was buried.I only have one piece of advice.On the pics I saw the twisted pairs and termination was wrong.Run all solid colours into one termination and run all striped colours into another termination.This way you get the noise rejection advantage from the twisted pair.Multi strand is more tough against breakage on installs but one of the reasons I use cat 5 is for the solid core effect
KEEP ON PULLING WIRE:D -
HEHEHE its me again!.I thought this was buried.I only have one piece of advice.On the pics I saw the twisted pairs and termination was wrong.Run all solid colours into one termination and run all striped colours into another termination.This way you get the noise rejection advantage from the twisted pair.Multi strand is more tough against breakage on installs but one of the reasons I use cat 5 is for the solid core effect
KEEP ON PULLING WIRE:D
You were off topic too, never once addressing speaRker cablesVTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
On the pics I saw the twisted pairs and termination was wrong.Run all solid colours into one termination and run all striped colours into another termination.
I guess you are not talking about mine. The flash of camera made the picture looks like they mixed up but they are not.Living room
Speakers: McIntosh XR100 Fronts, LSIM707 Fronts, LSIM 706 Center, LSIM 703 Surrounds, LSi/FX Surround backs.
Player: Oppo 95.
Amps: Bryston 4B SST, B&K Ref 200.7 S2.
Pres: B&K Ref 50 S2, Paraound P5.
Subs: Dual Rythmik F15HP subs.
Man Cave
Speakers: Martin Logan Vistas.
Player: OPPO 105.
Preamp: B&K Ref 50 S2.
Amp: B&K Ref 125.2 S2
Sub: Rythmik F12.
Sub management: SMS-1.
Headphones: HD800, HD380, RS220, SRH-1840. Headphone amp: Woo WA2.
Room treatment: GIK Room Kit #1. -
Conradicles wrote: »That is TOO funny!inspiredsports wrote: »Ah, a graphics designer (with a great sense of humor) in our midst, I see.Somebody PLEASE print this up in poster size! I'll pay you for it.
That's a keeper.comfortablycurt wrote: »I think this is the one that I want in poster size.I want one of those too. The only thing is I am dissapointed that my name didn't make it on there:(
Awwww shucks. Thanks.
I get bored sometimes and it seems these ads and pictures are the result. As far as printable versions... I'll see what I can do.Slowly emerging from the 90's
Fronts: Polk LSi15's
Center: Polk CS350ls
Pre: Sony STRDA555ES
Amp: Rotel RMB-1075
Sub: Velodyne SPL-1000
TV: 46" Sharp Aquos LCD
Dust magnet: Sony PS3 -
Finally, I was able to finish my cat 6 shielded speaker cable and did some listening tests and here is my impression to cat 6 shielded cable. For the low, I can not tell the difference with my other crappy speaker cables I bought from Fry's, Best Buy...For the high and mid, I found a big difference and the cat 6 shielded cable is the winner. My plan is only make one speaker cable for testing purpose but I end up with few of them. They are still in break in period so this is just my initial impressionLiving room
Speakers: McIntosh XR100 Fronts, LSIM707 Fronts, LSIM 706 Center, LSIM 703 Surrounds, LSi/FX Surround backs.
Player: Oppo 95.
Amps: Bryston 4B SST, B&K Ref 200.7 S2.
Pres: B&K Ref 50 S2, Paraound P5.
Subs: Dual Rythmik F15HP subs.
Man Cave
Speakers: Martin Logan Vistas.
Player: OPPO 105.
Preamp: B&K Ref 50 S2.
Amp: B&K Ref 125.2 S2
Sub: Rythmik F12.
Sub management: SMS-1.
Headphones: HD800, HD380, RS220, SRH-1840. Headphone amp: Woo WA2.
Room treatment: GIK Room Kit #1. -
An audio friend sent this to me awhile back and I forgot to post it, so here it is.Jesse, feel free to post all of it, some of it, or however you want to do it. I just want everyone to see how wrong this guy is....... as well as see the common sense which says it is not a very good idea to use that crap to make speaker cables!!!!! Mike
A look at the actual published numbers and specifications on the whole cat5 wire stupidity.
1. Let's look at the voltage drop numbers for a 12 foot run of Cat5 wire vs a few other cables. A 12 foot run of Cat5 cable at 4 amps A/C specifies a voltage drop of up to 20%, that's right 20 percent! This is mostly because while this wire is made to be able to handle a fairly high voltage level it is not designed to handle large amounts of current (amps). Now, let's look at the published numbers for some cables that are designed to be speaker cables. Let's use some Monster cable for an example. Monster cable says that the voltage drop for their 10ga. cable at 5 amps is a mere .05 volts over a 15 foot length and those numbers are for Monster cable! Some of the cables mentioned here as "rip off" or "stupid expensive" are almost truly lossless in this length. So looking at this comparison I think everyone that has common sense does not need to continue with part 1.
2. The published current handling specifications for Cat5 wire is just over .5 amps per strand giving you a grand total of just over 2 amps. Let's compare this to the amount of current that a 6 ga. PS Audio cable can carry. If you have not seen them let's just put it this way, it is larger than the main service feed cable for the 200 amp service coming into your house. Doing the math it would take approximately 100 runs of Cat5 wire to match the current carrying ability of a PS Audio Cable. Anyone who still wants to question this can just look at the electrode cable on your welder which will likely handle 240 amps or more and you will realize the PS cable is larger and heavier than your welders cable! This should certainly end current handling questions/numbers for part 2.
3. Now, let's compare the published specifications for delay in Cat5 cable and once again compare it to some actual speaker cable. (For those who don't know delay is the time difference that the signal takes to travel the fastest strand or pair vs. the slowest strand or pair measured in N/S.) The performance specifications and national installation code state Cat5 is allowed to have a delay of up to 548 N/S in a 30ft. run. They allow this amount of delay because Cat5 is designed to carry what is quite simply computer data, you can call it whatever you want, but it's not really more than that. Computers have provisions like time clocking and error correction to correct many things one of which is delay. Your speakers on the other hand are counting on all of the frequencies arriving with very very little delay from the lower freq's to the higher freq's and have no fixes or provisions to correct delay in any way shape or form. If parts of the signal do not arrive on time with the rest of the signal it can have many negative effects on what your ears hear. One good example of this is delay issues with subwoofers. The phase adjustment is now adjustable from 0 degrees to 180 degrees via a dial instead of the old switch that only gives you 2 choices 0 deg. or 180 deg. This came about because the I/C cables being used to send the signal to the subs were getting longer and longer which was resulting in delay issues because signal travels a 12 foot run of good speaker cable faster than it travels to the sub through a 30 foot interconnect. So the 0-180 dial allows the delay for the sub signal to be compensated for therefore it will be in proper time with the drivers in the main speakers. No offense, but anyone who can not understand this concept should probably go to the Bose site and just order something from them. Now, let's look at the published delay specs for a couple different makes of speaker cable. I was not able to find published delay numbers for a 30 foot run of speaker cable for obvious reasons, but one can still do the simple math. Cobalt cable specs for a 15 foot run of their premium speaker cable specifies a delay of a mere 5.2 N/S.... Extron cable shows a delay spec of 30 N/S which is six times the delay of the Cobalt cable. There was no formula for this, but if you figure that a 30 foot run of Cobalt cable will have double the delay of a 15 foot run the math is not too tough to calculate. If every additional 15 feet adds another 5.2 N/S you will discover that in order to match the max delay spec for Cat5 your run of Cobalt cable will be approximately 52 times longer than the 30 foot run of Cat5. Even if you find the math here to be total BS you can not deny the original delay numbers of up to 548 N/S for Cat5 and only a mere 5.2 N/S for 15 feet of Cobalt's good cable that is specifically designed to pass signal to speakers knowing that delay is not a good characteristic of speaker cable. These numbers are published specifications that can be easily referenced so this concludes part 3.
4. It is not a good idea to solder Cat5 cable and is actually against code in several states that have done their homework and have added this to their installation code for Cat5. I thoroughly enjoyed the picture of the super high quality bananas hacked onto the ends of the Cat5 that has pairs untwisted further than the published spec. which is 1 to 2 inches depending on who's Cat5 you are using. This will end part 4.
5. The last thing that was not addressed by Wiley Coyote, super cable genius, is the specification for Cat5 bend radius. If he had a degree he would know this and would not have bent up the cable like this. Once again, this is the easiest specification of Cat5 to find. The National Electric code specifies the per inch bend radius for Cat5 to be no more than 4 times the diameter of the cable which in this case works out to as follows. The diameter of the cable is .0201 and the allowance is 4 times that of the diameter which equals out to be .08. To put this in terms that most people will understand... a good rule of thumb is do not bend Cat5 more than approximately 45 degrees over a one inch length. Another thing regarding bend radius is when you take several pairs of Cat5 and twist or braid them as pictured I can guarantee the maximum allowed bend radius is being greatly exceeded down the entire length of the cable. I am not going to bother with explaining what too much bend does to Cat5, but feel free to look it up yourself using the references posted at the bottom. The last thing related to bend radius and termination is the specification which clearly says Cat5 cable can not be kinked or squished in any way. This instantly eliminates all of the ends which attach to the cable by inserting the cable into the hole and tightening a screw down on the cable therefore "Clamping" it in place. The installation code and specifications even states that wire ties must be left loose and may not be tightened to the point where the ties may distort the outer jacket in any way. This is why you see cables of this type laying loosely on the railroad track looking things called bridges instead of zip tied, and cable clamped everywhere. This concludes part 5.
I am not a member of this forum, but someone sent me a link to the stupidity being broadcast by "Dr. Cable" who claims to have worked with the cable companies. If he did work with any cable company I bet he was scrubbing their toilets at night! If this Dr. Cable guy actually knew anything he would have mentioned that you should try not to exceed the maximum bend radius when attempting to make your Cat5 cables. He also would have most certainly not have ignored the bend radius like he did while building his own cables!!! He would also have known there are only a limited number of approved connectors for Cat5 none of which use solder or clamping! He should also have mentioned the specification regarding the clamps, staples and zip ties. I have been to school for telecommunications equipment installations and I also have my Motorola cellular service certification. I was sent to Motorola school while I was working for Cellular One. Many of the specifications for Cat5 and other types have changed over time, and I do not claim to be the end all expert, but I learned a great deal of common sense things like the bend radius the first day of school! The numbers and codes are not hard to look up because building codes etc. change frequently. When I saw someone ask for some real numbers on Cat5 I could not take it anymore and put this together for you guys. I hope this clears up some of the special ed. stuff on using Cat5 for any type of high power audio application. Don't get me wrong it is perfectly O.K. to use it for a little pee wee single driver speaker in the ceiling over your kitchen sink that does not have to worry about anything but itself.... The bottom line is Cat5 cable is not designed to be fashioned into a braided rope style cable! If you want to make your own cables there are other types of wire which are much better suited for being made into cables. This should pretty effectively discredit the "cable Dr." for everyone to plainly see! This got way out of hand and I hope it can now go back to a discussion that is relevant and helps you guys...
Some of the sources you can use to verify the published performance, installation specifications, and installation codes for Cat5 are as follows..
National Electric Code and Installation Guidelines
The Handbook of Electric Tables and Formulas
The Hewlett Packard websitePolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
This discussion has been closed.