Thank you, it's been a worthwhile journey updating and improving these classic Polk's. The top and bottom edges are not that far from the baffle after all. I may go the further step on my modded 5B's to include the slight angles (calculated 6°) to really update the aesthetics.
For the dome/coil wire I simply taped 1/4" wide piece of electrical tape to diaphragm. Simple and effective.
Upon further inspection, those lip edges are also there to ensure the plastic fascia doesn't detach from the baffle. I'm going to radius off another 0.020" leaving 0.025" thick lip. This will still be @ 50x stronger than the factory plastic, and the stainless setscrews will set perfectly flush or a tad under....
Upon further inspection, those lip edges are also there to ensure the plastic fascia doesn't detach from the baffle. I'm going to radius off another 0.020" leaving 0.025" thick lip. This will still be @ 50x stronger than the factory plastic, and the stainless setscrews will set perfectly flush or a tad under....
Upon further inspection, those lip edges are also there to ensure the plastic fascia doesn't detach from the baffle. I'm going to radius off another 0.020" leaving 0.025" thick lip. This will still be @ 50x stronger than the factory plastic, and the stainless setscrews will set perfectly flush or a tad under....
That is crazy cool! Beautiful work.
Thank you WMG. Means a lot coming from a Polk veteran as yourself. You and F1 are an invaluable asset to the community here with your knowledge and experiences.
I'm not sure how long it takes for caps to burn in, but so far the sound is excellent and balanced with no errant resonating.
Also I went to do a weight comparison, but my cheap Harbor Freight gram scale went out. I would say these are 3 to 4 times heavier than factory plastic ones.
Last tidbit detail. I machined the coil lead channels to accommodate any common 1/2" wide electrical tape.(White tape used as reference) Simply snip 1.25" lengths for each side and place over wire lead while slightly overlapping silk dome fabric.....
Have you considered doing a similar design for the SL1000? The RD-0194 is the replacement for it, however the SL1000 faceplate is substantially smaller.
It can be done. The design limitation, is the fact that SL-1000 cabinet router depths are more shallow than the SL2000 and RDO depths, if achieving a curved bezel. A flat plate is easy to do, just need to drill for RDO magnets.
Also the SL1000 and SL2000 magnet bolts are 41mm on square as opposed to 39mm for RDO
I'm thinking you could make a curved bezel mounting plate with the RD0 throat angle and all, for folks who want to replace their SL1000's and SL2000's with the RD0194, but don't want to have to route out their cabinets or modify the plastic bezels of the RD0194's. If the router cutout depth is deeper for the SL2000 equipped speakers, perhaps you could have an adapter shim of the required thickness for those folks.
PS: Or simply make two different thicknesses.
Post edited by Gardenstater on
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
I'm thinking you could make a curved bezel mounting plate with the RD0 throat angle and all, for folks who want to replace their SL1000's and SL2000's with the RD0194, but don't want to have to route out their cabinets or modify the plastic bezels of the RD0194's. If the router cutout depth is deeper for the SL2000 equipped speakers, perhaps you could have an adapter shim of the required thickness for those folks.
PS: Or simply make two different thicknesses.
The SL2000s have same mounting dimension as RD0
I just looked at some old posts of mine and others. These plates fit left and right. The top or bottom needs about 1/8" trim to fit SL1000, but will need @ .080" fly cut from bottom face to get it close to enclosure.
Comments
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
For the dome/coil wire I simply taped 1/4" wide piece of electrical tape to diaphragm. Simple and effective.
B E A Utiful! WOW!
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
That is crazy cool! Beautiful work.
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
It would be cool to duplicate the "polkaudio" lettering in that radial pattern around the center.
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
Surely cleans up vocals and some instruments...
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/190301/phase-plug-design-for-mw65xx/p1
Thank you WMG. Means a lot coming from a Polk veteran as yourself. You and F1 are an invaluable asset to the community here with your knowledge and experiences.
Also I went to do a weight comparison, but my cheap Harbor Freight gram scale went out. I would say these are 3 to 4 times heavier than factory plastic ones.
You have 3 sets of 2.3TLs? lol.
I'm sending out a set for a nice set of 2.3Tl's. Can't wait to see them myself.
Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
Looks like this batch will be gone with a set of SRS
I'll build a 6° jig when I get time. As for now I'm enjoying the new look and new sound.
Harry / Marietta Georgia
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
Also the SL1000 and SL2000 magnet bolts are 41mm on square as opposed to 39mm for RDO
PS: Or simply make two different thicknesses.
Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
The SL2000s have same mounting dimension as RD0
I just looked at some old posts of mine and others. These plates fit left and right. The top or bottom needs about 1/8" trim to fit SL1000, but will need @ .080" fly cut from bottom face to get it close to enclosure.