Billet RD-0194/8 tweeter plate design.
Comments
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The tweeter throat matches factory angle 100%...
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Very nice work xschop!Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
Thank you, it's been a worthwhile journey updating and improving these classic Polk's. The top and bottom edges are not that far from the baffle after all. I may go the further step on my modded 5B's to include the slight angles (calculated 6°) to really update the aesthetics.
For the dome/coil wire I simply taped 1/4" wide piece of electrical tape to diaphragm. Simple and effective. -
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s -
Upon further inspection, those lip edges are also there to ensure the plastic fascia doesn't detach from the baffle. I'm going to radius off another 0.020" leaving 0.025" thick lip. This will still be @ 50x stronger than the factory plastic, and the stainless setscrews will set perfectly flush or a tad under....
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Upon further inspection, those lip edges are also there to ensure the plastic fascia doesn't detach from the baffle. I'm going to radius off another 0.020" leaving 0.025" thick lip. This will still be @ 50x stronger than the factory plastic, and the stainless setscrews will set perfectly flush or a tad under....
That is crazy cool! Beautiful work.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Looking good. It's a labor of love for sure. I know too well how much time you have invested in this.
It would be cool to duplicate the "polkaudio" lettering in that radial pattern around the center. -
Laser etching would look spiffy in black.
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Laser etch would look great, or a small ball endmill that follows the radial surface.
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I'm going to keep the originals with the extra .020" for the later added angles. Now if I can only decide what type of black to update cabinets.....
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That mid phase plug looks addedSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s -
Those things are tricked out! I vote for Zebrawood Veneer (that kinda black). Sound impressions?George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
That mid phase plug looks added
Surely cleans up vocals and some instruments...
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/190301/phase-plug-design-for-mw65xx/p1 -
westmassguy wrote: »Upon further inspection, those lip edges are also there to ensure the plastic fascia doesn't detach from the baffle. I'm going to radius off another 0.020" leaving 0.025" thick lip. This will still be @ 50x stronger than the factory plastic, and the stainless setscrews will set perfectly flush or a tad under....
That is crazy cool! Beautiful work.
Thank you WMG. Means a lot coming from a Polk veteran as yourself. You and F1 are an invaluable asset to the community here with your knowledge and experiences. -
I'm not sure how long it takes for caps to burn in, but so far the sound is excellent and balanced with no errant resonating.
Also I went to do a weight comparison, but my cheap Harbor Freight gram scale went out. I would say these are 3 to 4 times heavier than factory plastic ones. -
Shop scale still works....
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Ready to put the orders in ?
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Ready to put the orders in ? 18
You have 3 sets of 2.3TLs? lol.
I'm sending out a set for a nice set of 2.3Tl's. Can't wait to see them myself. -
Last tidbit detail. I machined the coil lead channels to accommodate any common 1/2" wide electrical tape.(White tape used as reference) Simply snip 1.25" lengths for each side and place over wire lead while slightly overlapping silk dome fabric.....
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What a labor of love, as they say! Did you do the flycutting yet or try that yet?George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
No, I just pulled this one out to do the tutorial lol. My caps will never be burned in hehe.
Looks like this batch will be gone with a set of SRS
I'll build a 6° jig when I get time. As for now I'm enjoying the new look and new sound. -
If you're interested in a set or more, just PM. I'll take a tally and order material accordingly...
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Incredible workmanship!! I'm really looking forward to owning a set for my 1.2tl's.
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Incredible attention to detail!! Perfection!!Remember at least 2,448 heroes +13 on 08/26/2021
LIFE has to be LIVED
“A sad soul can be just as lethal as a germ.” – John Steinbeck
You Can't Resist Propaganda if You Can't Recognize It
If the telephone doesn't ring ......... it's me
Harry / Marietta Georgia -
Have you considered doing a similar design for the SL1000? The RD-0194 is the replacement for it, however the SL1000 faceplate is substantially smaller.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
It can be done. The design limitation, is the fact that SL-1000 cabinet router depths are more shallow than the SL2000 and RDO depths, if achieving a curved bezel. A flat plate is easy to do, just need to drill for RDO magnets.
Also the SL1000 and SL2000 magnet bolts are 41mm on square as opposed to 39mm for RDO
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Looking back at some of the old posts, a worthwhile mod would be to make an SL1000 plate with the factory RD0- throat angle incorporated?
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I'm thinking you could make a curved bezel mounting plate with the RD0 throat angle and all, for folks who want to replace their SL1000's and SL2000's with the RD0194, but don't want to have to route out their cabinets or modify the plastic bezels of the RD0194's. If the router cutout depth is deeper for the SL2000 equipped speakers, perhaps you could have an adapter shim of the required thickness for those folks.
PS: Or simply make two different thicknesses.Post edited by Gardenstater onGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »I'm thinking you could make a curved bezel mounting plate with the RD0 throat angle and all, for folks who want to replace their SL1000's and SL2000's with the RD0194, but don't want to have to route out their cabinets or modify the plastic bezels of the RD0194's. If the router cutout depth is deeper for the SL2000 equipped speakers, perhaps you could have an adapter shim of the required thickness for those folks.
PS: Or simply make two different thicknesses.
The SL2000s have same mounting dimension as RD0
I just looked at some old posts of mine and others. These plates fit left and right. The top or bottom needs about 1/8" trim to fit SL1000, but will need @ .080" fly cut from bottom face to get it close to enclosure.
