Billet RD-0194/8 tweeter plate design.

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  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,500
    xschop wrote: »
    JayCee wrote: »
    Sure, what do you need?
    The inner thru-hole on the cabinet itself (RED)
    The outer in-step (BLUE)

    and ON THE PASSIVE itself, the exact center-to-center of the mount holes.
    No problem. I'll have time on Saturday.
    xschop wrote: »
    gmcman wrote: »
    Excellent work!
    Do you have the ability to anodize them? I do like the beautiful machine work, but would likely anodize them black.
    Yes I do. One member will be doing black. I know they'll be stunning. If I do a set, they'll be red and I'll anodize the MW phase-plug to match for my last set of Jr's that I have good cabinets for.
    +1. I was going to ask this, too. I'll take mine in black, please.

    Thanks,

    John
    ➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited October 2020
    Just to be clear, the end-user can do the anodizing. I will not be doing post-treatment due to costs and low production numbers.
    That said, the brushed alloy will match the stripped X-over plates and the large SDA spikes I'll be making. They won't be your momma's spikes.
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  • ptrooper
    ptrooper Posts: 501
    Anodising
    A local guy in Perth Australia wants 20 aussies ech. About $14 us.
    Note: If Matching the plates colour is preferred ,it will be a problem as Different grades of aluminium also = different colour variations
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    That is true for 2000 series aluminum alloys. No one has ever done the treatment to a factory Xover plate....yet
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,411
    OOOOO spikes got my attention on that..... as long as the are 1/4x20tpi
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited October 2020
    I got the lathe speed down for the large 2.50" diameter billet to match the tweeter plate patina. Also working on the base pad prototype to go with them. The interface will match the spike cone angle perfectly...
    Two reported back that they clear everything under 1.2s and 2.3s.... And theyll raise the SDA's by at least 3 inches...

    6zrrsfbb6pbz.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited October 2020
    XSive.... And make that at least 3.5" height gain

    j14nja2jksdp.jpg
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    How the hell have I missed this thread till now ! Xcellent !
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    VSAT88 wrote: »
    How the hell have I missed this thread till now ! Xcellent !

    Probably the same way the stealthy black paint thread has eluded my radar all this time I've been a member lol.

    I have not forgotten what Wessmassguy originally asked about either. I looked thoroughly into the SL1000 to RD0 plate design and feel that the smaller curvature needed and the thinner plate required to mate to the cabinet will be WAY too close for comfort near the back magnet inset. They would simply be too weak/flimsy to be worthwhile.

    Now that I've dissected two Old-school Peerless plates, I can design a better SL-1000/RD0 billet adapter plate along with matching block-off plates for the 2 tweeter model SDAs.
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  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,500
    xschop wrote: »
    JayCee wrote: »
    Sure, what do you need?

    The inner thru-hole on the cabinet itself (RED)
    The outer in-step (BLUE)

    and ON THE PASSIVE itself, the exact center-to-center of the mount holes.


    8ltdvxd8z5fr.jpg

    Haven't forgotten...chores took over this weekend. Will get you the measurements in the next few days.
    ➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited October 2020
    Thank you, no rush. Can you take an inner cabinet picture of any bracing near/around the Xover opening and top curvature of Passive?

    If I go forward with solid 1/4" thick billet plate for the Xover, then no backing plate would be needed for the Xover itself nor a top Passive backing ring I believe. But I still want to design and machine the semi-rings for these SDAs. An FEA analysis would put the flexion right at the top area above passive....We'll see.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    OOOOO spikes got my attention on that..... as long as the are 1/4x20tpi

    I'll try start the prototype spike on CNC next week with 1/4-20 taps. I see there are many thread adapters out there for 1/4-20.
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  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,500
    @xschop

    I realize you're in no hurry but apologies for not providing this as soon as promised.

    *Disclaimer. I'm a proud American that's lived quite a bit abroad. I hate the US measurement system. Fractions suck. Metric rules! Measurements in mm's. :)

    Thru-hole and in-step measured w/a trusty steel ruler. My digital caliper is too short for the larger measurements but was used on the center-to-center measurement.
    4whupewobhix.jpg

    As requested:
    yh5eb0fgzm3m.png
    1. Inner thru-hole (RED): 359.0 mm
    2. Outer in-step (BLUE): 389.0 mm
    3. PASSIVE center-to-center mount holes (YELLOW): 142.11 mm (all holes)
    4. Bonus Measurement-Bottom of internal brace to top of inner thru-hole: 38.58 mm
    My guess is the bonus measurement can/will deviate, some, from speaker to speaker as a result of the original assembly process.

    Gut pics of brace/XO plate area follow and I provided several to give you different perspectives. FYI w/the pics, since they will look slightly different than other 1.2's, I mounted the uber big 16 mH inductor on the brace and used an oak dowel to support it. Nothing else modified from stock. I also went Dynamat crazy.
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    Note to self; looks like the front facing side of the cross brace needs a surgical application of Power Grab. Felt fine but appears lacking.

    Hope this helps.
    ➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited October 2020
    Yes, Big help, thank you. If you still have PR out, can you get a center to center of the mount holes diameter on opposite sides if your Steele ruler is long enough?
    Thank you for doing this. The brace is plenty far away to install the steel arcs.

    Off topic, but if the Black Hole 5 reduces standing waves, why aren't people filling in those deep cross-cuts to the inner cabinets?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,411
    The dado's on the inside walls are for breaking up standing waves. BH5 and dacron are to make the cabinet appear larger than it is to the back wave of sound.

    My perspective
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited October 2020
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    The dado's on the inside walls are for breaking up standing waves. BH5 and dacron are to make the cabinet appear larger than it is to the back wave of sound.

    My perspective

    They just look lile they compromise the structural integrity/stiffness

    Good pic of the Xover plate too. I'll be looking into making them thicker 1-piece with integral handles.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    edited October 2020
    This is similar to room treatments where you have Diffusors and you also have Absorbers. Both work to reduce the intensity of reflected sound energy. Polk must've thought this was an effective compromise to using lots of absorbent material. Maybe that would've increased the effective box size and messed up some tuning they were going for.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited October 2020
    Jaycee, I'm calculating 371.33 mm PCD if you want to confirm or not, no biggie. Thank you again.
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  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,500
    I can't give you .33 precision w/the ruler but appears to be correct as best I can tell.
    ➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
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  • BlueBirdMusic
    BlueBirdMusic Posts: 2,267
    xschop wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    OOOOO spikes got my attention on that..... as long as the are 1/4x20tpi

    I'll try start the prototype spike on CNC next week with 1/4-20 taps. I see there are many thread adapters out there for 1/4-20.

    Got my attention too.
    "Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"




    Harry / Marietta GA
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2020
    In shop today for a while. Starting some audio related work to include custom-clearancing a set of plates for aftermarket black-phosphated Allen head screws someone sent me.... I prefer the factory screws for a reason lol.

    0ugap5lm1bcp.jpg

    a1jneef251l3.jpg

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2020
    Lil' preview of my next project....


    ciklaa8b2kjc.jpg


    fnoqu1nq0d2f.jpg

    Post edited by xschop on
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    Copper Sleeve to be shrink fit onto Pole Piece (Eddy Mod)? Seems pretty large though. Hmmm
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2020
    Left a few thousandths clearance for some adhesive between the two....

    8qt04hh3mkes.jpg

    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Copper Sleeve to be shrink fit onto Pole Piece (Eddy Mod)? Seems pretty large though. Hmmm

    Definitely not an Eddy mod. 4.125" diameter would kill Eddy lol...

    How about an XSive point-to-point crossover with integrated terminal plates....

    100% copper and Sch. 80 plastic. On fence whether to use Power grab or go get the Grey PVC glue. Once it's cured, I'm going to cut 6 channels so any iteration of the Polk Monitors and CRS+ /SDA 2B crossover components will drop in. Not 100% sure how to orient the CRS+ inductors just yet, but the aftermarket ones I have on hand fit with plenty of room for the capacitors.
    The channels will allow for multiple choices of point-to-point mounting...

    q2e8omabowh3.jpg





    Post edited by xschop on
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Electronically speaking, do the 0.100" thick walls need to be taken down to 1/16" thick or so?

    6y5jc0373rf1.jpg


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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    edited November 2020
    I guess the thinner it is, the easier to solder. Skin effect may be an issue also, especially for the tweeter bands. Maybe 0.062 for the midwoof tracks and 0.037 for the tweeter? Will the adhesive withstand the heat of soldering? PS: Maybe 0.037 everywhere?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2020
    I know the Power Grab will withstand soldering near it when cured. Even if the immediate area gets a little toasty, the 1/2" wide rings that are left won't budge, being 2 circular flat rings sandwiched together...

    f1mkzifb1p3h.jpg

    I'll let set for a couple days to ensure full cure, then use a part-off tool to seperate the channels....

    npi5zbf873m6.jpg

    Go vote for America.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2020
    Well, after 24hrs cure time, I went to cut the first trace ring on the end and it spun, exposing a beautiful blue non-cured Power Grab. I cleaned as quickly as possible off the plastic and will use a 2-part epoxy next.
    While I had it apart, I took the wall down to .050" and that was pushing the envelope with too much tool push-off. This is indicative of pure copper. I fine machined the ID and will use acetone to wipe down before sealing.....

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  • spongebobsquarepants
    spongebobsquarepants Posts: 167
    fwf4bhc392zl.jpg
    These came in last night. Very cool!
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Nice. What gasket material did you use?
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