Billet RD-0194/8 tweeter plate design.

xschop

I moved them out to garage to continue playing and burning in caps. Mids are sounding so accurate and blending with the tweets much better than first few hours of play. Still haven't decided cabinet treatment yet lol.

motorstereo

My plates arrived today and I've got one speaker done already. The attention to detail is excellent and I love the new look. I haven't had enough time with them yet to notice if there's a sound difference or not. But one thing I did notice is it takes about a second longer for the passive to come out compared to the plastic plates. I'm thinking this means a tighter air seal than the old plastic plates. Very well done sir; thank you

xschop

Wow.....Thanks for the Comparison Pic. I intentionally left the billet extrusion texture on the back side as it seems to grab the PVA foam I used,as it is less "spongy" than armacell even. The design goal was to take full advantage of the cabinet's sealing surface.

xschop

I just read your post on Sound Recluse's thread. Not sure how you insulated your coil leads.
The idea is to have as thin as possible insulator like common electrical tape, or "liquid elec. tape" as Pittdogg Suggested. This ensures the entire mating surfaces of the coil frame, magnet, and billet bezel are all evenly seated when magnet screws are snugged down.

pitdogg2

After further pondering this afternoon I thought of another that maybe could also work.

What about that "Flex Seal" stuff?
It's supposed to be some sort of rubberized material. I've personally never used any of it.

I don't know if somehow the chemical make up of the paint on stuff may have a reaction with the copper.

motorstereo

xschop wrote: »

I just read your post on Sound Recluse's thread. Not sure how you insulated your coil leads.
The idea is to have as thin as possible insulator like common electrical tape, or "liquid elec. tape" as Pittdogg Suggested. This ensures the entire mating surfaces of the coil frame, magnet, and billet bezel are all evenly seated when magnet screws are snugged down.

I tried some building "flashing tape" at first but it was a pain to cut and peel those tiny pieces. That stuff is very sticky and squishy and works very well once it's in place. It's not cheap at $60 a roll and thankfully I have some left over from a siding job. I really didn't notice any difference tightening the magnet screws with the gorilla tape but it was a lot easier to cut and put into place. I also cleaned the back of the plates first with brake cleaner to remove any possible contaminants.

BlueBirdMusic

Guys, Those look fantastic!!!!

Harry (was a perfectionist in early years)

xschop

Listening to my 5Bs doing some other stuff in garage. I started looking at the set of SL2000 magnets. I'll see what jig I can make to copy the bolt pattern of their magnets so the end user can convert his SL-2000s to silk domes using these plates.

xschop

Besides the PCD of magnet holes being a couple mm's wider, the SL-2000's have 0.100" more wider magnet inteface/centering at the bezel than RD0's

Gardenstater

Thanks Polk

xschop

Anyone who's placed an order, I'm shipping today. The holiday weekend threw my schedule off.

xschop

westmassguy wrote: »

Have you considered doing a similar design for the SL1000? The RD-0194 is the replacement for it, however the SL1000 faceplate is substantially smaller.

How thick is the SL1000 plate?
I left a set of RDO plates without magnet countersinks and will see what can be done to adapt a set. I have the length and widths and corner radii written down.

westmassguy

xschop wrote: »

westmassguy wrote: »

Have you considered doing a similar design for the SL1000? The RD-0194 is the replacement for it, however the SL1000 faceplate is substantially smaller.

How thick is the SL1000 plate?
I left a set of RDO plates without magnet countersinks and will see what can be done to adapt a set. I have the length and widths and corner radii written down.

Unfortunately, I don't have any SL1000s anymore

Outlaw9

Beautiful work!

Tony M

Those DO look great!

I think a silver cross-over plate would take the look to the max.

xschop

I'm not sure how the little handles fit on there, but that flat plate could be stripped and brushed easily to match. Glad you're happy.

ptrooper

There two screws for each handle from the inside of the plate !

xschop

ptrooper wrote: »

There two screws for each handle from the inside of the plate !

Then chem-stripping and brushing to match would be easy.

Toolfan66

Will you be making any more?

nooshinjohn

I am curious if any improvements in sound have been made with these.

xschop

In My monitor 5B's, not a single peep from the 194 diaphragms (It would resonate quite often in the plastic housings).

Indeed the cabinet sealing has improved on mine as well.
And with simple hurricane nuts, the monocoque design renders the cabinet area much stiffer also. You can crank down the cabinet mount screws with ZERO deformation.

xschop

Toolfan66 wrote: »

Will you be making any more?

As market forces dictate. If you didnt get in on the current run, you may in 3-4 weeks.
Like any custom parts I've made over the years, they can take a back seat to oilfield parts that take precedence. $1200 part vs a $45 part is an economic no-brainer where I'm from.

JayCee

@xschop, I'll take 8 for my 1.2tl's if/when you make another run.

xschop

JayCee wrote: »

@xschop, I'll take 8 for my 1.2tl's if/when you make another run.

Got you down for a set JayCee.
Care to take a couple of measurements of the Passives for me?

JayCee

Sure, what do you need?

gmcman

Excellent work!


Do you have the ability to anodize them? I do like the beautiful machine work, but would likely anodize them black.

xschop

JayCee wrote: »

Sure, what do you need?

The inner thru-hole on the cabinet itself (RED)
The outer in-step (BLUE)

and ON THE PASSIVE itself, the exact center-to-center of the mount holes.

xschop

gmcman wrote: »

Excellent work!


Do you have the ability to anodize them? I do like the beautiful machine work, but would likely anodize them black.

Yes I do. One member will be doing black. I know they'll be stunning. If I do a set, they'll be red and I'll anodize the MW phase-plug to match for my last set of Jr's that I have good cabinets for.

ptrooper

Hey Rob. You going to make reference rings for the x over plate ?
I know the tweeters will be solid as ❤️

xschop

Take good measurement or send me an X-over plate and take pictures inside the cabinets to ensure there are no MDF supports in the way. I'll build them.

The X-over plate looks like it could double in thickness itself and simply use hurricane nuts for even more rigidity in that area.