What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    We are back in action after the basement flood!

    le7vbot0tg6r.jpeg

    Ryan, glad you're back in business! I know the water table is pretty high in parts of Iowa, does the flooding happen very often, or was this just one of those Big Rains?

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  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,654
    Mike Reeter wrote: »
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    We are back in action after the basement flood!

    le7vbot0tg6r.jpeg

    Ryan, glad you're back in business! I know the water table is pretty high in parts of Iowa, does the flooding happen very often, or was this just one of those Big Rains?

    TS Cristobal came through that Tuesday and saturated the ground.
    That night there was a second storm systems that was feeding into the warm moist air from the gulf and we got huge rains overnight.
    The sump pump was working and running non-stop but there was just way too much water coming in from the drain tile for it to keep up with.



    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,449
    Thank god Russ and Tony are the only ones here with a foot fetish....
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited July 2020
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Mike Reeter wrote: »
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    We are back in action after the basement flood!

    le7vbot0tg6r.jpeg

    Ryan, glad you're back in business! I know the water table is pretty high in parts of Iowa, does the flooding happen very often, or was this just one of those Big Rains?

    TS Cristobal came through that Tuesday and saturated the ground.
    That night there was a second storm systems that was feeding into the warm moist air from the gulf and we got huge rains overnight.
    The sump pump was working and running non-stop but there was just way too much water coming in from the drain tile for it to keep up with.



    Ah man, that certainly sucks. If you haven't, you might consider investing in a good quality Liberty Sump Pump.

    Minimum 1/2 hp. depending on the lift, they will PUMP water.

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,604
    Or a sewer pump. They tend to pump more water faster. You may need larger piping. My 1hp sewer pump needed 2" pvc. That thing had a head of 15' before any considerable drop in volume of flow.
    One downside is the pit tub may need to also be larger in diameter as their footprint is larger than most sump pumps.

    We needed to separate all my basement drains from the sewer line. The storm water street drain and sewer line at the street were the same. Anytime we got large rains the water would back up into the house. The city paid a plummer to put in new lines in the basement to the pit which was then pumped up and dropped into the sewer stack vent on the first floor.

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  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,654
    Oddly enough, I did replace the existing pump (Liberty 1/3hp, 1 1/4” outlet) with a much larger pump...Barracuda stainless and cast iron 1hp, 2” outlet. The original pump was feeding a 2” PVC pipe that had about 9.5’ of lift to the outlet in the back yard. Which made no sense...why connect a 1.25” outlet to a 2” pipe?!! 🤦‍♂️

    Since we live in a conservation community, sumps can’t be directly routed to the storm water drainage ditches (swales). The outlet is about 25’ out from the house in the back yard and dumps into a French drain.

    We also added 3 water sensors. 1 at the sump pump lid, 1 in my office and 1 at the bar. Between the 115db alarm, email alerts and push notifications, we should be golden. Couple that with the near future additional of a battery backup for the sump pump and having the original pump and a 1/3hp utility pump on a shelf in the storage room, we should be good moving forward.

    We also had the basement waterproofing company that originally did the basement waterproofing during the initial build inspect for any issues (10 year warranty on the original waterproofing) and they found 3 cracks that could potentially allow water in so they are sealing those under warranty.

    Now we buckle down and finish the rest of the basement so the next water incursion can be truly devastating. 😂
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    ^^^^Sounds like you'll be well prepared for the next Monsoon^^^^
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Tested my Hafler XL600 for DC offset. I think it's good. Had .03 and .07 at the speaker terminals. Does this just mean dc offset is good? Does that have anything to do with bias?
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  • spongebobsquarepants
    spongebobsquarepants Posts: 167
    91exznk2pn2k.jpg
    When gluing MW drivers, do you have to glue both sides of the magnet? JB weld is pretty strong, and the other side is a pain to get to.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited July 2020
    I think you are supposed to put the jb between the basket and the magnet.

    The whole idea is to stop the motor structure from shifting out of alignment with the basket and cone/voice coil.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,604
    edited July 2020
    spongebobsquarepants wrote: »
    91exznk2pn2k.jpg
    When gluing MW drivers, do you have to glue both sides of the magnet? JB weld is pretty strong, and the other side is a pain to get to.

    Yes most of us have done both sides of the magnet.

    We have also moved on to the loctite power grab. It's much easier to apply and cleans up with water unless you choose to use one of their other adhesive products.
    I've used the heavy duty caulk gun size and always do the inside of the magnet first then do the outside the next day.
    They also make a squeeze tube size which may be helpful.
    I've always put it on then smoothed it out with my finger. I've used a fairly generous amount to be sure to push into the area of the magnet and plates.

    9dahzv2j4o9j.jpg

    1clhdd8ougdm.jpg



    https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&source=android-browser&q=loctite+power+grab#fpstate=imgv&imgv=0
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  • spongebobsquarepants
    spongebobsquarepants Posts: 167
    Wow, that's a nice glue job! I made a friggin mess. After doing the other side of the magnet and making a bigger mess It was starting to feel counterintuitive to "save the speakers" with my messy glue job. I'll try power grab on the other speakers.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Oh wow, my bad Spongebob! I'm sure glad I did not try this on mine cause I would have screwed that all up. I could have sworn I've seen pics of the basket to the motor structure being glued.

    Doh!
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,604
    When using JB Weld I always used popsicle sticks to just dab the end into the mix dab into the corner area around the magnet.
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  • spongebobsquarepants
    spongebobsquarepants Posts: 167
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    When using JB Weld I always used popsicle sticks to just dab the end into the mix dab into the corner area around the magnet.

    My instinct was to use a flat head screw driver, but it immediately got stuck to the magnet... ha

    I wound up using a plastic knife and a latex glove
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,933
    Hey! I am actually "doing something for my 'stereo rig' today!
    To paraphrase Blondie, I ripped it to shreds.

    50108449906_c19a428324_b.jpgDSC_0708 (2) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

    50108692397_f45e5440cb_b.jpgDSC_0722 (2) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

    50107888183_2f7ef1d1ba_b.jpgDSC_0724 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

    more to come... :p

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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,169
    edited July 2020
    That's a major reorganization going on. ;)

    Can't wait to see the next phase. B)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • jumpindick
    jumpindick Posts: 428
    I put Star Sound Sistrum Apprentice platforms underneath monoblocks. And audio points underneath preamps.

    As much as I loved the entertainment rack I built recently, it did muddy the overall sound. The Star Sound components seem to remove the vibration and clear background noise.
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,933
    Tony M wrote: »
    That's a major reorganization going on. ;)

    Can't wait to see the next phase. B)

    Well, there's a root cause...

    xjmefwai87ho.jpg

    I am "hoping" that this gives me some incentive to re-think priorities as to what is actually "installed" upstairs. E.g., I think it is time to join the (early) 21st Century & decomission the cassette deck that's been installed upstairs. :p

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  • aprazer402
    aprazer402 Posts: 3,149
    ^^^^^ Was ist das? Eine Klimaanlage?
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,933
    edited July 2020
    nahezu B)
    Wärmepumpe

    boo-yah.

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  • HzTweaker
    HzTweaker Posts: 789
    Tony M wrote: »
    That's a major reorganization going on. ;)

    Can't wait to see the next phase. B)

    Maybe giant SDAs? Like 1.2TLs???
    2ch rig: Speakers: Magnepan LRS w/Magna Riser stands Preamplifier: Parasound P5 Amplifier: Parasound A23 CDP: Pioneer DV-563A Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp)

    Standby: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods
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  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    That’s COOL Mark
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,375
    mf4dxcxr9as0.jpg
    Picked up some NOS NIB Taylor 866a Mercury tubes for my power supply
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  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    Nice picture. :)
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,375
    Thanks, I have one that had a better light show but it was from the really old and the filement burned out.apoz986njkoa.jpg
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,933
    you need a better camera, ol' son :)
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,375
    I always wreck the camera and the speakers on my phones. Construction work seems to be hard on them.
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  • maxward
    maxward Posts: 1,586
    Yeah, I thought the first one was of the Lubbock lights.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited July 2020
    spongebobsquarepants wrote: »
    91exznk2pn2k.jpg
    When gluing MW drivers, do you have to glue both sides of the magnet? JB weld is pretty strong, and the other side is a pain to get to.
    I hope I got here in time w/a simple, quick tweak that’s worth the trouble.

    dynamat*, armaflex, or ordinary pipe wrap: use one of those to cover driver baskets, magnets, and any other metal or internal shiny, sound reflective surfaces before reassembly.
    *damps better than the others though $y and harder to use

    Enjoy😊 Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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