What did you do to your stereo rig today?
Comments
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Those are to be connected directly to ground. Here is a snippet from the website...
"Resistors are made in thick film technology. The resistive layer is applied to the ceramic molded body. Then it's drying with high temperature and encapsulated with silicon cement. After applying 0.8mm tinned copper wire, the resistor is almost ready to play, but for ultimate mechanical stability and the shielding advantages it's putted into the copper tube and flooded with the best quality resin. The use of copper tubing allows to drain interferences and this is why we used the third long leadout. It's connected only to the casing, having no contact with the signal transmitted by the resistor. The third leadout should be joined to the ground or "-" speaker input."
Tom
Thanks! I got two in 9.1 ohms in today. These things are heavy and look great. -
Could, not will!
I have turned it down, though. And, thanks! -
Finally got the garage rig set up!
Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated from our very own @mantis
Project BoxE used to stream Tidal
Shunyata 2 outlet power conditioner
Douglas Speaker Cables (a bit too long, I may need to order some shorter ones)
Polk TSi200 speakers (I'll be able to rotate other bookies in this rig as well!)
Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Very cool all sleek and out of the way.
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Glad to hear the garage is done and rocking Dave!Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
Glad to hear the garage is done and rocking Dave!
Thanks Rob! Yeah finally have some time over the next couple of weeks! Nice to rock the system while working in the garage!Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
I installed the rasberry pi into wicked aluminum case!
This made the wifi stop working.
So I ran an ethernet cable to the router.
I hastily enlarged a 3/8 hole in the floor to 5/8 so I could fit a premade cable, because I didnt want to drive to work to get an RJ-45 crimper on the holiday weekend.
Roon interface is a lot faster than it ever was on wifi and I'm happy with how it worked out!
But that hole in the floor is going to haunt me. -
No biggie. I've got 4 or 5 behind my racks. One of them is 2".
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Home Depot and Lowe’s and probably amazon sell plugs if the the whole really bothers you...wait, what are we talking about?!?Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Caulking comes in colors.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
No biggie. I've got 4 or 5 behind my racks. One of them is 2".
Perfect size for mice!Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
Or other creepy crawlers...
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Good job.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Put some pants on, ya bum!
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We are back in action after the basement flood!
Ryan, glad you're back in business! I know the water table is pretty high in parts of Iowa, does the flooding happen very often, or was this just one of those Big Rains?
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Thank god Russ and Tony are the only ones here with a foot fetish....The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Mike Reeter wrote: »
TS Cristobal came through that Tuesday and saturated the ground.
That night there was a second storm systems that was feeding into the warm moist air from the gulf and we got huge rains overnight.
The sump pump was working and running non-stop but there was just way too much water coming in from the drain tile for it to keep up with.
Ah man, that certainly sucks. If you haven't, you might consider investing in a good quality Liberty Sump Pump.
Minimum 1/2 hp. depending on the lift, they will PUMP water.
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Or a sewer pump. They tend to pump more water faster. You may need larger piping. My 1hp sewer pump needed 2" pvc. That thing had a head of 15' before any considerable drop in volume of flow.
One downside is the pit tub may need to also be larger in diameter as their footprint is larger than most sump pumps.
We needed to separate all my basement drains from the sewer line. The storm water street drain and sewer line at the street were the same. Anytime we got large rains the water would back up into the house. The city paid a plummer to put in new lines in the basement to the pit which was then pumped up and dropped into the sewer stack vent on the first floor.
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^^^^Sounds like you'll be well prepared for the next Monsoon^^^^
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Tested my Hafler XL600 for DC offset. I think it's good. Had .03 and .07 at the speaker terminals. Does this just mean dc offset is good? Does that have anything to do with bias?
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When gluing MW drivers, do you have to glue both sides of the magnet? JB weld is pretty strong, and the other side is a pain to get to.
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I think you are supposed to put the jb between the basket and the magnet.
The whole idea is to stop the motor structure from shifting out of alignment with the basket and cone/voice coil. -
spongebobsquarepants wrote: »
When gluing MW drivers, do you have to glue both sides of the magnet? JB weld is pretty strong, and the other side is a pain to get to.
Yes most of us have done both sides of the magnet.
We have also moved on to the loctite power grab. It's much easier to apply and cleans up with water unless you choose to use one of their other adhesive products.
I've used the heavy duty caulk gun size and always do the inside of the magnet first then do the outside the next day.
They also make a squeeze tube size which may be helpful.
I've always put it on then smoothed it out with my finger. I've used a fairly generous amount to be sure to push into the area of the magnet and plates.
https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&source=android-browser&q=loctite+power+grab#fpstate=imgv&imgv=0 -
Wow, that's a nice glue job! I made a friggin mess. After doing the other side of the magnet and making a bigger mess It was starting to feel counterintuitive to "save the speakers" with my messy glue job. I'll try power grab on the other speakers.
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Oh wow, my bad Spongebob! I'm sure glad I did not try this on mine cause I would have screwed that all up. I could have sworn I've seen pics of the basket to the motor structure being glued.
Doh! -
When using JB Weld I always used popsicle sticks to just dab the end into the mix dab into the corner area around the magnet.
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When using JB Weld I always used popsicle sticks to just dab the end into the mix dab into the corner area around the magnet.
My instinct was to use a flat head screw driver, but it immediately got stuck to the magnet... ha
I wound up using a plastic knife and a latex glove -
Hey! I am actually "doing something for my 'stereo rig' today!
To paraphrase Blondie, I ripped it to shreds.
DSC_0708 (2) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
DSC_0722 (2) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
DSC_0724 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
more to come...
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That's a major reorganization going on.
Can't wait to see the next phase.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
I put Star Sound Sistrum Apprentice platforms underneath monoblocks. And audio points underneath preamps.
As much as I loved the entertainment rack I built recently, it did muddy the overall sound. The Star Sound components seem to remove the vibration and clear background noise.
