What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 22,990
    Thank god Russ and Tony are the only ones here with a foot fetish....
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    “Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,101
    edited July 2020
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    We are back in action after the basement flood!

    le7vbot0tg6r.jpeg

    Ryan, glad you're back in business! I know the water table is pretty high in parts of Iowa, does the flooding happen very often, or was this just one of those Big Rains?

    TS Cristobal came through that Tuesday and saturated the ground.
    That night there was a second storm systems that was feeding into the warm moist air from the gulf and we got huge rains overnight.
    The sump pump was working and running non-stop but there was just way too much water coming in from the drain tile for it to keep up with.



    Ah man, that certainly sucks. If you haven't, you might consider investing in a good quality Liberty Sump Pump.

    Minimum 1/2 hp. depending on the lift, they will PUMP water.

    SDA SRS 2.3TL's/SDA SRS 3.1TL's/SDA CRS+4.1TL's and some other stuff
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,257
    Or a sewer pump. They tend to pump more water faster. You may need larger piping. My 1hp sewer pump needed 2" pvc. That thing had a head of 15' before any considerable drop in volume of flow.
    One downside is the pit tub may need to also be larger in diameter as their footprint is larger than most sump pumps.

    We needed to separate all my basement drains from the sewer line. The storm water street drain and sewer line at the street were the same. Anytime we got large rains the water would back up into the house. The city paid a plummer to put in new lines in the basement to the pit which was then pumped up and dropped into the sewer stack vent on the first floor.

  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,483
    Oddly enough, I did replace the existing pump (Liberty 1/3hp, 1 1/4” outlet) with a much larger pump...Barracuda stainless and cast iron 1hp, 2” outlet. The original pump was feeding a 2” PVC pipe that had about 9.5’ of lift to the outlet in the back yard. Which made no sense...why connect a 1.25” outlet to a 2” pipe?!! 🤦‍♂️

    Since we live in a conservation community, sumps can’t be directly routed to the storm water drainage ditches (swales). The outlet is about 25’ out from the house in the back yard and dumps into a French drain.

    We also added 3 water sensors. 1 at the sump pump lid, 1 in my office and 1 at the bar. Between the 115db alarm, email alerts and push notifications, we should be golden. Couple that with the near future additional of a battery backup for the sump pump and having the original pump and a 1/3hp utility pump on a shelf in the storage room, we should be good moving forward.

    We also had the basement waterproofing company that originally did the basement waterproofing during the initial build inspect for any issues (10 year warranty on the original waterproofing) and they found 3 cracks that could potentially allow water in so they are sealing those under warranty.

    Now we buckle down and finish the rest of the basement so the next water incursion can be truly devastating. 😂
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,101
    ^^^^Sounds like you'll be well prepared for the next Monsoon^^^^
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's/SDA SRS 3.1TL's/SDA CRS+4.1TL's and some other stuff
  • butterbean
    butterbean Posts: 335
    Man I am so sorry. I have had my basement flooded twice. What a freaking mess! I am seriously thinking buying a whole house generator. At least then I wouldn’t have to worry about the battery back up just replaced my pump last year. Wondering if it isn’t good insurance to replace the pump yearly. I love having a basement. But if I ever bought a new house it would never have a basement.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,339
    Tested my Hafler XL600 for DC offset. I think it's good. Had .03 and .07 at the speaker terminals. Does this just mean dc offset is good? Does that have anything to do with bias?
  • 91exznk2pn2k.jpg
    When gluing MW drivers, do you have to glue both sides of the magnet? JB weld is pretty strong, and the other side is a pain to get to.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,339
    edited July 2020
    I think you are supposed to put the jb between the basket and the magnet.

    The whole idea is to stop the motor structure from shifting out of alignment with the basket and cone/voice coil.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,257
    edited July 2020
    91exznk2pn2k.jpg
    When gluing MW drivers, do you have to glue both sides of the magnet? JB weld is pretty strong, and the other side is a pain to get to.

    Yes most of us have done both sides of the magnet.

    We have also moved on to the loctite power grab. It's much easier to apply and cleans up with water unless you choose to use one of their other adhesive products.
    I've used the heavy duty caulk gun size and always do the inside of the magnet first then do the outside the next day.
    They also make a squeeze tube size which may be helpful.
    I've always put it on then smoothed it out with my finger. I've used a fairly generous amount to be sure to push into the area of the magnet and plates.

    9dahzv2j4o9j.jpg

    1clhdd8ougdm.jpg



    https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&source=android-browser&q=loctite+power+grab#fpstate=imgv&imgv=0
  • Wow, that's a nice glue job! I made a friggin mess. After doing the other side of the magnet and making a bigger mess It was starting to feel counterintuitive to "save the speakers" with my messy glue job. I'll try power grab on the other speakers.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,339
    Oh wow, my bad Spongebob! I'm sure glad I did not try this on mine cause I would have screwed that all up. I could have sworn I've seen pics of the basket to the motor structure being glued.

    Doh!
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,257
    When using JB Weld I always used popsicle sticks to just dab the end into the mix dab into the corner area around the magnet.
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    When using JB Weld I always used popsicle sticks to just dab the end into the mix dab into the corner area around the magnet.

    My instinct was to use a flat head screw driver, but it immediately got stuck to the magnet... ha

    I wound up using a plastic knife and a latex glove
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 27,928
    Hey! I am actually "doing something for my 'stereo rig' today!
    To paraphrase Blondie, I ripped it to shreds.

    50108449906_c19a428324_b.jpgDSC_0708 (2) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

    50108692397_f45e5440cb_b.jpgDSC_0722 (2) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

    50107888183_2f7ef1d1ba_b.jpgDSC_0724 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

    more to come... :p

  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 9,865
    edited July 2020
    That's a major reorganization going on. ;)

    Can't wait to see the next phase. B)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • jumpindick
    jumpindick Posts: 412
    I put Star Sound Sistrum Apprentice platforms underneath monoblocks. And audio points underneath preamps.

    As much as I loved the entertainment rack I built recently, it did muddy the overall sound. The Star Sound components seem to remove the vibration and clear background noise.
  • aprazer402
    aprazer402 Posts: 2,399
    ^^^^^ Was ist das? Eine Klimaanlage?
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 27,928
    edited July 2020
    nahezu B)
    Wärmepumpe

    boo-yah.

  • HzTweaker
    HzTweaker Posts: 599
    Tony M wrote: »
    That's a major reorganization going on. ;)

    Can't wait to see the next phase. B)

    Maybe giant SDAs? Like 1.2TLs???
    2ch rig:
    Speakers: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods
    Preamplifier: Parasound P5
    Amplifier: Parasound A23
    CDP: Pioneer DV-563A
    Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB
  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,944
    That’s COOL Mark
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 679
    mf4dxcxr9as0.jpg
    Picked up some NOS NIB Taylor 866a Mercury tubes for my power supply
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 14,687
    Nice picture. :)
    Lumin X1 file player; Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 679
    Thanks, I have one that had a better light show but it was from the really old and the filement burned out.apoz986njkoa.jpg
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 27,928
    you need a better camera, ol' son :)
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 679
    I always wreck the camera and the speakers on my phones. Construction work seems to be hard on them.
  • maxward
    maxward Posts: 917
    Yeah, I thought the first one was of the Lubbock lights.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,706
    edited July 2020
    91exznk2pn2k.jpg
    When gluing MW drivers, do you have to glue both sides of the magnet? JB weld is pretty strong, and the other side is a pain to get to.
    I hope I got here in time w/a simple, quick tweak that’s worth the trouble.

    dynamat*, armaflex, or ordinary pipe wrap: use one of those to cover driver baskets, magnets, and any other metal or internal shiny, sound reflective surfaces before reassembly.
    *damps better than the others though $y and harder to use

    Enjoy😊 Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 27,928
    edited July 2020
    invalid wrote: »
    I always wreck the camera and the speakers on my phones. Construction work seems to be hard on them.

    They still make cameras that are cameras. Just sayin'.

    :p

    zmbr548om29d.jpg
    edit: that's actually my old DSLR -- my son just recently got me a newer one (also 'reconditioned'... he's a frugal lad, like his ol' mom & dad. :) The D5000's been passed along to our daughter (per our son's request).