Just jamming out and drinking many beers! Also decided I need to pick up the modwright PH 9.0 phono, this rega fono mc is too noisy!
2 Channel - Dual Purpose system in the works
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Marantz AV7707 I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs/Audience Forte F3 Power Chord/Acoustic Zen Satori I Cambridge 851N
Yamaha RX-A2070, Music Hall A70.2 integrated amp, B&K 4420 Reference, Benchmark Dac1, Bluesound NODE 2i, HSU VTF-2 MK5, LSiM705, LSiM704, Douglas Connection Alpha 12AWG OCC Speaker Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha Analog Interconnect Cables, Audioquest Interconnects and Digital Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 11 OCC Custom Power Cable, Cullen Gold and Crossover Series Power Cables, Signal Power Cable, Furman PL-8C 15 Power Conditioner, Fluance RT85, Parasound Zphono USB Phono Preamp, Sony 65" 900F, Sony UBP-X700, Fios.
I turned my gear off and unplugged it for the first time in a month. I usually leave it on 24/7 even the tube preamp with separate power supply, I'm going away for a few days. Hopefully it doesn't take too long for my solid state amp to sound great again.
I’m reading up on proper implementation to try to learn as much as I can since this is new territory for me...and tips are welcome.
please chime in Brother Polkies if missed something - sorry for the long post
You will need:
a.time, - at least an uninterrupted afternoon.
b. patience,
c. music* or movie* soundtrack w/heavy bass
d. ears.
Look for a Polk thread of “bass bustin*’” program material as not a lot of effective “sub 30hz/40hz” material available. A free iPhone app called “Sonic” produces single tones down to 20hz can be helpful to tweak (EQ) your sub - best used for another session; see below. While helpful, you won’t need any equipment.
a. Turn off or disconnect all other channels from the amp/AVR end,
b. Place sub in your preferred seating.
c. Play “c” (above) at preferred XO - 100hz?
d. Crawl around the room w/your head less than 12” from the floor, listening for the smoothest response - you may find several😊
Note: moving your head 1-3 inches in any direction can produce radically different results
e. Where it sounds the smoothest, is the best place - may have low a SAF😢
f. go to “c” drop the frequency to the next lower setting* 80hz? 60hz? ...repeat d & e...
...until you are satisfied you found “e” w/an acceptable SAF (compromise) * 40 and below may be a challenge though your sub’s specs suggests above average robustness in the lower registers.
After you have settled on the location for your sub, you can tweak. If your AVR/prepro has EQ for the sub, think as a wood or stone carver - If you were carving a face, how do you “fill in a nose?” REMOVE the peaks or the louder portions of of your sub’s frequency range - NEVER fill in a dip.
You will likely hafta turn up your sub a click or two, as the final adjustment
Hope this helps - so sorry, so long... Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981 CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6 5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3 Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
So far, lucky for me the response is very smooth when the sub is placed on the front wall close to the corner of the room(so max WAF there lol...not that she cares much).
I’m surprised how low I have the volume knob on the sub to have it fill in the bottom registers nicely without being overbearing.
I’m not using an AVR, this is straight from my amp via High Level inputs so I guess next step is to tweak the phase/delay and make sure I’m not canceling waves from the main speakers...is this correct?
Last night and this morning, I fabricated a new power cord for my PS Audio PerfectWave Transport from"leftovers from previous power cord DIY projects.
Just a bit of diversion during my Covid-19 "hibernation."
This upgrade from the stock cable appeared to improve SQ. The clarity and presence of the various instruments improved, as did the quality of the bass.
However, I had not had a lot of experience with this transport in this system.
I know that when I replaced the stock power cord on my Cambridge Audio CD player in the system I have in my NJ condo with a similarly constructed power cord, the improved SQ surprised both my wife and me. [I use the CA Azur 840C only as a transport, because I have a PS Audio DirectStream DAC in this system.]
Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer with Morrow Audios USB cable to DirectStream DAC w/Bridge II; AQ Sky XLRs, McIntosh MC 220 Tube Pre; AQ Sky XLRs, CAT 600.2 Dualmono Amp, Morrow SP7 Speaker Cables, SDA SRS 1.2tls (RD0198s, Dreadnought, Black Hole 5, Acousta-Stuf, Dynamat Extreme, JBWeld. Vr3 Mods: "The Abbot" Monastery-Level Xovers, Custom Internal Wiring, Binding Post Plates, & SDA ICs).
Exercise Room, Wadia 171 iPod Dock, PS Audio PerfectWave Transport, Innuos Streamer with Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ Sky XLRs, Perreaux PMF3150 Amp, Dreadnought, Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables, SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers).
Synology 713+ NAS on Gigabit LAN serving PW MkII DAC & DirectStream DAC.
So one of my PASS ACA monoblocks shite the bed the other day. Left channel getting a loud hum. In the meantime, I swapped in a pair of Antique Sound Labs tube mono's.
Great to have back-ups!
Had to do a little re-arranging too. Moved the EAR CD player to the top of the riser.
Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cables, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Working on an Akai GX-77 R2R from my dad's collection.
It isn't working correctly, so had to dig in. Rear guts:
Ultimately got the main cam out, and then cleaned and re-lubed it. If you've ever worked on a R2R, maybe you can appreciate the effort to get this bad boy out.
Now I've got the front exposed for closer inspection.
"This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
^^^ Re: the AKAI deconstruction: I wouldn't even try Most impressive, young Tapedeckwalker.
Ha, perhaps young enough to foolishly make an attempt, and old/stubborn enough to not give up...but, I am done with it now.
The GX-77 was one of Akai's last desperate home-run swings. It has auto-reverse (six heads in total ), and a compact design thanks to the 'loading roller', which is controlled by a large plastic cam - much akin to auto turntables. Old waxy lube is a typical culprit in servicing these. Did I mention the similarity to old auto tt's? One of the major deficiencies in this deck is/are the weak DC reel motors.
I successfully serviced the main cam, all major levers, and DeOxit'd all pots and switches. I replaced the capstan flywheel belt, and both reel motor drive belts. Also cleaned and polished front faceplate surfaces and knobs.
In the end, I have this one 'mostly' working. 'Parts only' units sell for $300-400 on eBay, with fully-functional tested units selling for over $1,000, so I figured it was worth the effort. My dad probably paid $20 or less for this unit as-is. I seem to be doing all the work he had planned on doing
"This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
Another clean-out trip at my parents' house last weekend, so another installment to share.
Yamaha C-60 preamp and Kenwood KM-992 power amp:
I'd been eye-balling that Kenwood power amp for awhile on a storage rack, and was finally able to dig it out. It's a great piece IMO, and the light meters even work! I initially thought the Yamaha preamp had a channel out, but after a couple of days, I finally discovered the balance wheel that protrudes from the underside of the faceplate, and hey [cough], both channels actually work! Great little combo here!
The Yammie still needs a good cleaning, which is evident from the pic. The Kenwood cleaned-up pretty well
Pioneer RT-707 tape deck:
Nice direct-drive R2R here with auto-reverse. The left channel is out, as you can tell by looking at the meter readout in the pic. Hopefully I can get that remedied since this is otherwise a very nice, compact R2R. This unit was sitting over on a workbench, away from most other gear, stuffed into a couple of plastic bags. Oh, Pop
"This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
Thanks guys. BTW, it looks like I will be coming into a treasure trove of big band, swing, and oldies mix tapes in reel format. PM me if interested
"This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
We actually used ours last night. Ever since it moved to the new basement it has not seen much action as we are waiting for the new furniture to arrive. We all sat down and watched the original Grinch.
TV room- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607, Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 1 and AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Signal Dig Coax, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung QN75Q7DR Qled 75" tv, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Marantz DV-4200 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII, Family room Samsung 55JS7000 Android Mi Box3 and Apple TV, Polk Magnifi Max. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Polk Patio 25x4, Rotel RDV 1045 (as CDP) MIT AVT3 ICs - Work - Spotify Premium or Neutron App to my FiiO Kunlun into my Grado SR125e
Another clean-out trip at my parents' house last weekend, so another installment to share.
Yamaha C-60 preamp and Kenwood KM-992 power amp:
I'd been eye-balling that Kenwood power amp for awhile on a storage rack, and was finally able to dig it out. It's a great piece IMO, and the light meters even work! I initially thought the Yamaha preamp had a channel out, but after a couple of days, I finally discovered the balance wheel that protrudes from the underside of the faceplate, and hey [cough], both channels actually work! Great little combo here!
The Yammie still needs a good cleaning, which is evident from the pic. The Kenwood cleaned-up pretty well
Pioneer RT-707 tape deck:
Nice direct-drive R2R here with auto-reverse. The left channel is out, as you can tell by looking at the meter readout in the pic. Hopefully I can get that remedied since this is otherwise a very nice, compact R2R. This unit was sitting over on a workbench, away from most other gear, stuffed into a couple of plastic bags. Oh, Pop
Two comments:
1) I like those Yamaha preamps (FWIW) -- aesthetically & sonically.
2) That RT-707... and this is gonna sound random... but, did you try the headphone output? I have a CT-F1000 that happily outputs stereo from the headphone jack but not the line-level outputs. If memory serves, there is a transistor that fails (perhaps in the output buffer?). Of course, the RT-707 ain't a CT-F1000, and vice versa. but they're both roughly contemporaneous products of the same engineering teams -- and corporate bean-counters.
Otherwise, you know the usual suspects for that sort of issue.
In fairness, if one has a good, calibrated transconductance tester, one can do a pretty good job of determining the true operating condition of a given tube, and of course match tubes (or sections of tubes, like the pair of twin triode tubes in the Paramour phono preamp above). I, sadly, haven't managed to convince myself to spend the $$$ for a good transconductance tester in good, calibrated working order.
I am fortunate enough to have my father's workhorse Sencore Mighty Mite III, and it still serves well for basic testing (emission, grid leakage, and shorts).
I rocked out for a bit today ( my entrance system [ BIG Onkyo Rec. and Def. Tech. BP30s] ) while replacing my cottage's front door hinges and adding one that was never there when I bought it.
I had to modify the door's side receiving slots some . There are no new original hinges so I ordered new ones. Long story BUT Andersen Windows and door Co. is First class! . A woman at Cust. Serv. gave me a free one. 60.00.
Polished up the entrance handle a week or two ago also.
I sometimes really enjoy listening to FM while doing stuff out there. Today and the past week or two has been pretty good. Good music. Some Christmas music songs too.
Recessed the striker plate on this door today too. Took less than 3 min. to do.
All while listening at Reference Levels sometimes. 15+ years and things are finally getting done, one by one.
I know this isn't stereo related but...after doing the cottage door hinges today, I took my back door off to look at the torn seal on the bottom ( been like this for YEARS ) and found a replacement online. I Ordered it. This should've been done 15 years ago too.
Little by little.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
Andersen is definitely first class.
When you call the parts dept. it says something along the lines of "for products made before 1981 press 1, for products after 1981 press 2."
Support for 30+ year old products always a good sign.
Comments
It is addicting. Very easy to use the app as well. Enjoy!
Great product. I Love my Mini 😳
In case you weren’t aware, AS has an interesting and informative Lumin thread
https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/14016-lumin-audiophile-network-music-player/page/119/?tab=comments#comment-1088146
PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
Source PSA PWT into NSD Supremo
Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
LCD Samsung LN46B750
Mains Salk HT2-TL
Center Salk HT2C
Pre Cary SLP-05
Wires WW & MIT
Congrats! That is awesome!
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Marantz AV7707 I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs/Audience Forte F3 Power Chord/Acoustic Zen Satori I Cambridge 851N
I've had the PH 9.0 for quite some time, I think you'll be happy.
My bet is you’ll love it.
I’m reading up on proper implementation to try to learn as much as I can since this is new territory for me...and tips are welcome.
Nice. I added an F12 a few months ago. It was a great upgrade. Enjoy.
You will need:
a.time, - at least an uninterrupted afternoon.
b. patience,
c. music* or movie* soundtrack w/heavy bass
d. ears.
Look for a Polk thread of “bass bustin*’” program material as not a lot of effective “sub 30hz/40hz” material available. A free iPhone app called “Sonic” produces single tones down to 20hz can be helpful to tweak (EQ) your sub - best used for another session; see below. While helpful, you won’t need any equipment.
a. Turn off or disconnect all other channels from the amp/AVR end,
b. Place sub in your preferred seating.
c. Play “c” (above) at preferred XO - 100hz?
d. Crawl around the room w/your head less than 12” from the floor, listening for the smoothest response - you may find several😊
Note: moving your head 1-3 inches in any direction can produce radically different results
e. Where it sounds the smoothest, is the best place - may have low a SAF😢
f. go to “c” drop the frequency to the next lower setting* 80hz? 60hz? ...repeat d & e...
...until you are satisfied you found “e” w/an acceptable SAF (compromise)
* 40 and below may be a challenge though your sub’s specs suggests above average robustness in the lower registers.
After you have settled on the location for your sub, you can tweak. If your AVR/prepro has EQ for the sub, think as a wood or stone carver - If you were carving a face, how do you “fill in a nose?” REMOVE the peaks or the louder portions of of your sub’s frequency range - NEVER fill in a dip.
You will likely hafta turn up your sub a click or two, as the final adjustment
Hope this helps - so sorry, so long... Tony
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered
LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
So far, lucky for me the response is very smooth when the sub is placed on the front wall close to the corner of the room(so max WAF there lol...not that she cares much).
I’m surprised how low I have the volume knob on the sub to have it fill in the bottom registers nicely without being overbearing.
I’m not using an AVR, this is straight from my amp via High Level inputs so I guess next step is to tweak the phase/delay and make sure I’m not canceling waves from the main speakers...is this correct?
Just a bit of diversion during my Covid-19 "hibernation."
This upgrade from the stock cable appeared to improve SQ. The clarity and presence of the various instruments improved, as did the quality of the bass.
However, I had not had a lot of experience with this transport in this system.
I know that when I replaced the stock power cord on my Cambridge Audio CD player in the system I have in my NJ condo with a similarly constructed power cord, the improved SQ surprised both my wife and me. [I use the CA Azur 840C only as a transport, because I have a PS Audio DirectStream DAC in this system.]
Exercise Room, Wadia 171 iPod Dock, PS Audio PerfectWave Transport, Innuos Streamer with Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ Sky XLRs, Perreaux PMF3150 Amp, Dreadnought, Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables, SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers).
Synology 713+ NAS on Gigabit LAN serving PW MkII DAC & DirectStream DAC.
Great to have back-ups!
Had to do a little re-arranging too. Moved the EAR CD player to the top of the riser.
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
It isn't working correctly, so had to dig in. Rear guts:
Ultimately got the main cam out, and then cleaned and re-lubed it. If you've ever worked on a R2R, maybe you can appreciate the effort to get this bad boy out.
Now I've got the front exposed for closer inspection.
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
Re: @verb and his ACA monoblock's untimely boudoir defecation
The GX-77 was one of Akai's last desperate home-run swings. It has auto-reverse (six heads in total
I successfully serviced the main cam, all major levers, and DeOxit'd all pots and switches. I replaced the capstan flywheel belt, and both reel motor drive belts. Also cleaned and polished front faceplate surfaces and knobs.
In the end, I have this one 'mostly' working. 'Parts only' units sell for $300-400 on eBay, with fully-functional tested units selling for over $1,000, so I figured it was worth the effort. My dad probably paid $20 or less for this unit as-is. I seem to be doing all the work he had planned on doing
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
Yamaha C-60 preamp and Kenwood KM-992 power amp:
I'd been eye-balling that Kenwood power amp for awhile on a storage rack, and was finally able to dig it out. It's a great piece IMO, and the light meters even work! I initially thought the Yamaha preamp had a channel out, but after a couple of days, I finally discovered the balance wheel that protrudes from the underside of the faceplate, and hey [cough], both channels actually work!
The Yammie still needs a good cleaning, which is evident from the pic. The Kenwood cleaned-up pretty well
Pioneer RT-707 tape deck:
Nice direct-drive R2R here with auto-reverse. The left channel is out, as you can tell by looking at the meter readout in the pic. Hopefully I can get that remedied since this is otherwise a very nice, compact R2R. This unit was sitting over on a workbench, away from most other gear, stuffed into a couple of plastic bags. Oh, Pop
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
Two comments:
1) I like those Yamaha preamps (FWIW) -- aesthetically & sonically.
2) That RT-707... and this is gonna sound random... but, did you try the headphone output? I have a CT-F1000 that happily outputs stereo from the headphone jack but not the line-level outputs. If memory serves, there is a transistor that fails (perhaps in the output buffer?). Of course, the RT-707 ain't a CT-F1000, and vice versa. but they're both roughly contemporaneous products of the same engineering teams -- and corporate bean-counters.
Otherwise, you know the usual suspects for that sort of issue.
or
One can test tubes.
In fairness, if one has a good, calibrated transconductance tester, one can do a pretty good job of determining the true operating condition of a given tube, and of course match tubes (or sections of tubes, like the pair of twin triode tubes in the Paramour phono preamp above). I, sadly, haven't managed to convince myself to spend the $$$ for a good transconductance tester in good, calibrated working order.
I am fortunate enough to have my father's workhorse Sencore Mighty Mite III, and it still serves well for basic testing (emission, grid leakage, and shorts).
Sonic craft order came today after a long usps journey! Put this new outlet at the end of my dedicated 20a. Seems well built.
Furutech makes good stuff
I had to modify the door's side receiving slots some . There are no new original hinges so I ordered new ones. Long story BUT Andersen Windows and door Co. is First class!
Polished up the entrance handle a week or two ago also.
I sometimes really enjoy listening to FM while doing stuff out there. Today and the past week or two has been pretty good. Good music. Some Christmas music songs too.
Recessed the striker plate on this door today too. Took less than 3 min. to do.
All while listening at Reference Levels sometimes.
I know this isn't stereo related but...after doing the cottage door hinges today, I took my back door off to look at the torn seal on the bottom ( been like this for YEARS ) and found a replacement online. I Ordered it.
Little by little.
When you call the parts dept. it says something along the lines of "for products made before 1981 press 1, for products after 1981 press 2."
Support for 30+ year old products always a good sign.