What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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Comments

  • KexKex Posts: 4,583
    ⬆️ Great pics! ⬆️

    Thanks! 😊
    Alea jacta est!
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,271
    I bet that is sublime!
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 23,237
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I bet that is sublime!

    It is more than that. It is entirely another level, and endgame for sure. It has to be experienced to be believed.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    “Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • tratlifftratliff Posts: 1,151
    doctor r wrote: »
    Spent 4 hours playing with:
    0hdohj9h2b4i.jpeg

    My Christmas present from the wife 👍🏻

    The improvement using Analogmagik on the setup my OL Enterpise Mk4 arm with the Madake has been a little eye opening (really ear opening...). I have always put a lot of effort into my cartridge setups but his placed the sound into a different world.

    That is a great present. Would like to give it a try but its pricey. Sounds like a good investment though.
    2 Channel
    Legacy Focus SE, 2 REL Carbon Limited, McIntosh C50, McIntosh MC601's, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Parasound Halo JC3, Denon DP-59l w/Ortofon 2m Bronze, Marantz SA-14s1, Oppo BDP-105, Technics RS-1500, Furman Elite 15PFi, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Interconnects, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Speaker Cables, Pangea Power Cables
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,271
    tratliff wrote: »
    doctor r wrote: »
    Spent 4 hours playing with:
    0hdohj9h2b4i.jpeg

    My Christmas present from the wife 👍🏻

    The improvement using Analogmagik on the setup my OL Enterpise Mk4 arm with the Madake has been a little eye opening (really ear opening...). I have always put a lot of effort into my cartridge setups but his placed the sound into a different world.

    That is a great present. Would like to give it a try but its pricey. Sounds like a good investment though.

    Group buy
  • tratlifftratliff Posts: 1,151
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    tratliff wrote: »
    doctor r wrote: »
    Spent 4 hours playing with:
    0hdohj9h2b4i.jpeg

    My Christmas present from the wife 👍🏻

    The improvement using Analogmagik on the setup my OL Enterpise Mk4 arm with the Madake has been a little eye opening (really ear opening...). I have always put a lot of effort into my cartridge setups but his placed the sound into a different world.

    That is a great present. Would like to give it a try but its pricey. Sounds like a good investment though.

    Group buy

    Count me in.
    2 Channel
    Legacy Focus SE, 2 REL Carbon Limited, McIntosh C50, McIntosh MC601's, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Parasound Halo JC3, Denon DP-59l w/Ortofon 2m Bronze, Marantz SA-14s1, Oppo BDP-105, Technics RS-1500, Furman Elite 15PFi, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Interconnects, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Speaker Cables, Pangea Power Cables
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,833
    edited January 16
    Finally got around to installing the Blackhole5 that @Moose68Bash so kindly karma'd to me a while back.....err uhh quite a while back :D It was a piece that is 7-1/4" x 9-1/4", so not quite big enough for 2 pieces 6" x 6", so I pieced it into 2 pieces that are 5-7/8" x 5-7/8" with a 1-1/4" square missing from one corner (yeah I'll fix that in the future....maybe). Anyway, this was a bigger transformation than I expected! The first song in the queue happened to be David Gilmour Live at Pompeii, Comfortably Numb and the difference was astoundingly obvious from the git go. The vocals were super clean and breathy.....yeah I'd rather use that in reference to a female vocalist but that was my first reaction. Further songs cemented that in that vocals have taken on a new crystal clarity and the bass is tighter as well. The feeling that there is a live band in my room is now inescapable. I guess attenuating that back wave from the midwoofer is super important. Anyway I'm lovin it.

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    97gjp63q0rdc.jpg



    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,605
    A piece ~7” X 7” in each closure made what sounds like a BIG diff?
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,833
    It was a little less than 6" x 6". The more I think about it, it is probably having that little square missing in the upper outer corner that is where the magic comes in. :D
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,271
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    A piece ~7” X 7” in each closure made what sounds like a BIG diff?
    You just need it directly behind the woofers.

    This stuff is incredible at cleaning/tightening up resonances. In the 2.3tls you just use a piece that's just big enough to go behind the woofers. If you get too much it will suck the life right out of your speakers.
    @Toolfan66 IIRC did most of his enclosure on his 1.2tls and promptly removed most quickly.
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 23,237
    edited January 17
    Man, that looks familiar :p
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    “Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 3,076
    I don't think ive ever heard Krell equipment before. But I am for some reason drawn to it. I want a Krell amp so bad!
  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 1,596
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    A piece ~7” X 7” in each closure made what sounds like a BIG diff?
    You just need it directly behind the woofers.

    This stuff is incredible at cleaning/tightening up resonances. In the 2.3tls you just use a piece that's just big enough to go behind the woofers. If you get too much it will suck the life right out of your speakers.
    @Toolfan66 IIRC did most of his enclosure on his 1.2tls and promptly removed most quickly.

    I finally got around to ordering a sheet of bh5 last week and plan on doing my 1.2tls after reading all the positive reviews for years. I'm thinking 2 strips 27'' long by 3'' wide behind each array should be good. I've read that the adhesive is very good but I wonder if anyone has used extra adhesive to insure they do not loosen up?
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 9,506
    Congrats on your new disc spinner, Ivan!
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,833
    edited January 17
    ...
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,833
    edited January 17
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    A piece ~7” X 7” in each closure made what sounds like a BIG diff?
    You just need it directly behind the woofers.

    This stuff is incredible at cleaning/tightening up resonances. In the 2.3tls you just use a piece that's just big enough to go behind the woofers. If you get too much it will suck the life right out of your speakers.
    @Toolfan66 IIRC did most of his enclosure on his 1.2tls and promptly removed most quickly.

    I finally got around to ordering a sheet of bh5 last week and plan on doing my 1.2tls after reading all the positive reviews for years. I'm thinking 2 strips 27'' long by 3'' wide behind each array should be good. I've read that the adhesive is very good but I wonder if anyone has used extra adhesive to insure they do not loosen up?

    I was wondering that myself but I took the precaution of cleaning the surface of my particle board with some Everclear 190 on a paper towel. I'm sure Isopropyl or Denatured would work fine but you can't use it for a Bloody Mary :). Anyway, some brown stuff came off and it was much smoother and cleaner feeling. You don't want to get the wood wet, just a lil on the surface which will quickly flash off. Then I tested the adhesive with a finger and felt it was plenty sticky enough. Time will tell.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • invalidinvalid Posts: 465
    http://www.lampizator.eu/lampizator/references/krell cd300/Krell CD300.html

    This is what lukasz fikus the owner of lampizator had to say about the krell kav cd300.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 221
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    A piece ~7” X 7” in each closure made what sounds like a BIG diff?
    You just need it directly behind the woofers.

    This stuff is incredible at cleaning/tightening up resonances. In the 2.3tls you just use a piece that's just big enough to go behind the woofers. If you get too much it will suck the life right out of your speakers.
    @Toolfan66 IIRC did most of his enclosure on his 1.2tls and promptly removed most quickly.

    I just went through this process with my 2.3tl. I pretty much covered the back wall and it totally killed bass and mid-bass. Took the life right out of the speakers. I removed all by a 4x4 square behind each drive and the came right back to life.


    Living Room: Marantz ND8006>Anthem TLP-1>Parasound HCA-1500a>Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl/SVS SB-13Ultra, CS400i
    Home Office: Technics SL-QD33>Marantz NR1509>Zu Audio DW/Polk SDA 2Btl/CS400i/Monitor 5jr, SVS-13Ultra
    Office: Closed due to COVID
    Portable: Fiio X3ii, Shure SE-215, Fender FXA2/FXA6
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,605
    edited January 17
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    A piece ~7” X 7” in each closure made what sounds like a BIG diff?
    You just need it directly behind the woofers.

    So this BH stuff is to dampen resonances like say Dynomat, Secondskin, or Armacell*?
    *CHEAP version of Dyno or SS

    Or does it absorb certain frequencies?

    Help me out. Thanks
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,271
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    A piece ~7” X 7” in each closure made what sounds like a BIG diff?
    You just need it directly behind the woofers.

    This stuff is incredible at cleaning/tightening up resonances. In the 2.3tls you just use a piece that's just big enough to go behind the woofers. If you get too much it will suck the life right out of your speakers.
    @Toolfan66 IIRC did most of his enclosure on his 1.2tls and promptly removed most quickly.

    I wonder if anyone has used extra adhesive to insure they do not loosen up?

    No need for that. The glue they use is like that mouse trap glue. If you've ever got into any of that you'll understand.

  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 23,237
    How about some thoughts on that new Krell you are playing with...
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    “Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 1,596
    I now have a 3X27" strip of bh5 behind each of my 1.2tl's arrays. I haven't had the drivers out since 2012 so it was a struggle pulling the first driver out of each cabinet. As was mentioned the glue is very strong and I saw no need for any additional glue. Now I need to spend some time with them for some listening impressions.
    k7mu7mq6zc7e.jpg
    xc8x0advtb8f.jpg

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,271
    edited January 17
    How about some thoughts on that new Krell you are playing with...

    If I can stop the ear orgasms long enough....

    My Pioneer PD-09 was/is no slouch but this Krell is a magnitude force factor of 10.
    Much cleaner bass, better midrange and the sparkle in the upper registers are crisp clean and concise without any fatigue.

    You said it, IT was no lie!!
    END GAME!!!

    I mean really it sucks😳🤣
  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 2,366
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    My Pioneer PD-09 was/is no slouch but this Krell is a magnitude force factor of 10.
    Much cleaner bass, better midrange and the sparkle in the upper registers are crisp clean and concise without any fatigue.

    You said it, IT was no lie!!
    END GAME!!!

    I mean really it sucks😳🤣

    I was wondering whose tranny was missing some gears! Congrats Ivan!
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
    Source PSA PWT into NSD Supremo
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Center Salk HT2C
    Pre Cary SLP-05
    Wires WW & MIT
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,271
    GlennDog wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    My Pioneer PD-09 was/is no slouch but this Krell is a magnitude force factor of 10.
    Much cleaner bass, better midrange and the sparkle in the upper registers are crisp clean and concise without any fatigue.

    You said it, IT was no lie!!
    END GAME!!!

    I mean really it sucks😳🤣

    I was wondering whose tranny was missing some gears! Congrats Ivan!

    Thanks Glenn.
    John and I had fun with all that.
    Great seller and a wonderful Polkie.
    I had ran into some initial problems with it playing some SACD's. While he does have the manual he was not able to include it's due to its location at the time of packing. He was very helpful in getting the player to play the SACD's I was having trouble with.

    It has played everything I have put in it today.

  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 23,237
    Glad this stayed in the family Ivan. It is also good to know my description of you was right on the money! :p;):pB)
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    “Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • jdjohnjdjohn Posts: 1,903
    jdjohn wrote: »
    Oh, so GF is now the backup? I really like the AT house sound. I guess my top ones are OC9/I & III, and AT33PTG. Also an AT33 Mono. Lots of vintage AT MM carts as well. Nice, flat FR IMO.
    I have realized I was off in my comment here, thinking @nooshinjohn had purchased (a lowly) Audio Technica cart. In my defense, the logo on the box confused me between the two manufacturers. Perhaps you can understand my confusion looking at the company logos side-by-side:
    xi4k7l4cjfh6.jpg
    For the record, though, I do like the AT house sound...especially for the money.
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
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