Power Conditioner - Who's using one? Which one? Did it help your sound?

124

Comments

  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,384
    I would agree with mantis that the Panamax is a well built piece, but, it's a conditioner and not a regenerator. I would have liked to have seen the 5 on sale, but, I'm not sure I need the 5 with what I run. Was looking at the pre owned market, and, there were a couple of 5's that I was about ready to move on until I saw the 3 about half off. I don't see me using a continuous 750 VA. I am, however, going to keep my eyes out for the 5 possibly going on sale. Wondering if they're going to discontinue the 3.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,611
    mantis wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    mantis wrote: »
    when buying a power conditioner and surge system, it's not designed to make your system sound any better or anything like that.
    What is actually does is makes it perform the way it was designed by suppling clean power and stable power so your devices all work correctly.
    .

    Yes and no Dan. The removal of noise in your signal will make your system sound better. Cause and effect thing. Kinda like saying amps aren't designed to make your system sound better but to simply supply power to your speakers. Cables are designed to get the signal from point A to point B, not necessarily to make your system sound better. Which we all know that the above is inherently false when it comes to the effect it has on making your system sound better....or worse even.

    There's different levels of power conditioners, voltage regulation/surge suppression. Some do a better job at it then others and by different means and the effect on your sound will also vary.
    No they don't. Your system whatever that may be can perform at a certain level. When you use a Power conditioner no matter the quality, it's job is to send clean power to your gear so it can operate at it's best. The gear's best is all it's got and your point is valid from a point of view meaning if the surge is doing harm or not filtering out all the nose or suppling the correct amount of voltage and amps required for given system to operate correctly then yes.

    We sell Power centers from simple strips to multi Thousand dollar range. We carry many different brands and I can tell you that once your noise free and you have the proper voltage with no lack in amps, your system now can perform it's best.

    I think people get to wrapped up in things making their systems "better". The word is loosely defined and I think thats where the disagreement comes to play.
    Wires and power conditioners are support devices not make a system sound better then it already can. You are limited to the gear and their ability to reproduce sound. You can't make that better with ad on things. You can make it perform the way it was designed.
    So I'll explain...
    What really is going on when you think a wire makes your system sound better is the fact that the wire you had their before was hurting your sound. It was not performing at the same level as the so called better cable. Same goes with power conditioners. When you get a higher end model and you hear a difference , you're getting back what you have been missing all the time you where using the lesser quality model.
    So the game we have all been playing over the decades is exactly that, giving this to get that but in the end the signal coming out of the source to the amp to the speaker needs to make it and the tools we use will alter that path some way or another. Thats what we hear.

    I would respectfully disagree with all that. Your premise is that every product you have prior to the new one is faulty somehow. That is simply not the case. Different designs, build quality, will always alter your sound to some degree for better or worse. Has zero to do with xyz product being faulty somehow. Same with cables, they all get the signal from point A to point B, but design, metallurgy used, and other factors will color the sound and also play a part in the flow of that signal and how it interacts with the gear it's connected to. Everything in our systems color the sound, we play on that to our preferences, doesn't mean the prior cable was faulty somehow. Your premise suggests that every cable in the Audioquest line up for example is faulty somehow until you get to the top dog series.

    While "better" is subjective, how do we know when our systems perform their best ? Is there a light that comes on to tell us this is as good as it gets with this system ? Obviously not, because better is subjective. Synergy between pieces is subjective, not faulty somehow. I have a hard time following your reasoning Dan.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1430
    Tad 803 speakers
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 387
    I was not faulting the Panamax at all and know they are completely different products. I always had the Panamax in my system so I never compared it to not having anything at all. The Panamax was surely beneficial but I never knew how much.

    My incoming power isn't horrible either 120+/-1VAC with average 1.5%THD. The reason I upgraded to the P5 was to try to provide the cleanest power that my upgrade budget allowed. I am in complete agreement that providing cleaner power allows components to perform closer to what they were designed to do under ideal conditions.

    Along the same lines I swapped out the Panamax in my HT setup for a Furman Reference 15i. Again there was a noticeable change that was expected based on the upgrade.

    kharp1, I am not sure what your budget is but there is a black P5 on Audiogon right now for $2100. When I purchased mine I took advantage of the PS Audio trade in program and was able to get rid of gear to supplement the cost.
    2 Channel
    Pre:Bryston BP173
    Amp:Bryston 4B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton Reference
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Bryston BDA-3, Bryston BDP-3, Bryston BCD-3, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 Speaker, Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 XLR, AQ Diamond USB/HDMI
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Sony XBR65-Z9F

    Home Theater
    Pre: Yamaha CX-A5100
    Amp: Parasound A21, A31, A51
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 707 (FL/FR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), LSiM 703 (SL/SR), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB13 x 4
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: AQ Rocket 88, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7
    Power: PS Audio P5 Regenerator, Furman IT Reference 15i, Pangea AC14SE and AC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR75X940D
  • Get dedicated circuit, and a PS detect and call it a day.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; Cables ZU Mission IC's, SC and power cords, all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    All TV's sound enhanced by Polk Magnfi Mini's.

    Other; S60'S, M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All speakers have had crossover rebuilds, resulting in a small fortune invested in Sonicaps, and tweeter upgrades.

    Political memes posted as fact and accepted as fact, are sign language of the ignorant, for the ignorant

    tonyb said " but even socialists can do a good thing here and there

    Social media makes dumb people dumber and smart people dumb then dumber.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,897
    Tony nails one outta the park....kissed it right on the sweet spot. Dan hit a foul ball.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,384
    A dedicated circuit is a good idea, but, you're still getting the noise of everything else attached all the way back to the pole and beyond.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • UpstatemaxUpstatemax Posts: 2,398
    You can't follow reason with the power game...

    Not everyone is playing with a level field. WAY too many variables. I have to agree with Dan. Get what you NEED for clean power. If you have good, stable power you probably don't need to dump serious money into it. If you have crap power, you might have to dig deep and get something that is going to provide a lot of help.

    It all boils down to what power you have and what you're willing to spend. For me, I have generally VERY stable power and I don't have the budget to throw a lot of money at power.

    I'm simply not willing to throw thousands of dollars at getting minimal gains.

    If I was up a couple of tax brackets, I might not care so much.

    Or, If I had crappy power I would probably make it a higher priority.

    I would not suggest a magnum condom for EVERYONE, get what you NEED. :wink:
    Living room:
    Samsung PN50B860 50" Plasma : XBOX One : Roku Ultra : Oppo UDP-203 : Pioneer Elite SC-87 : APC H15 : Focal 806V mains : Focal 806V Surrounds : SVS SB2000 : SVS SB12-NSD

    2Ch:
    Sonus Faber Venere S : Parasound HCA 1500A : Oppo UDP-205 : Furman Elite 15 DM i : Sony XBR 55X810C Monitor :
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,897
    It's a lot less to do with power fluctuations, as long as they are within reason and more to do with noise. You don't know how much noise is on the line until some of it is removed and I think most that haven't addressed better power conditioning would be surprised by how much the noise floor can drop.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ^^^^ on amps that you are thinking of.
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • UpstatemaxUpstatemax Posts: 2,398
    F1nut wrote: »
    It's a lot less to do with power fluctuations, as long as they are within reason and more to do with noise. You don't know how much noise is on the line until some of it is removed and I think most that haven't addressed better power conditioning would be surprised by how much the noise floor can drop.

    But from what I've seen, general line noise is fairly easily taken care of.

    My Furman has done a great job. Again, I think it depends a lot on how bad your power is.

    If you have fluctuations and a lot of noise, you might have to drop some coin. But if you just have general line noise associated with residential power and little to no fluctuations, you can get away with something far more reasonable.

    Again, depends on what you're starting with...
    Living room:
    Samsung PN50B860 50" Plasma : XBOX One : Roku Ultra : Oppo UDP-203 : Pioneer Elite SC-87 : APC H15 : Focal 806V mains : Focal 806V Surrounds : SVS SB2000 : SVS SB12-NSD

    2Ch:
    Sonus Faber Venere S : Parasound HCA 1500A : Oppo UDP-205 : Furman Elite 15 DM i : Sony XBR 55X810C Monitor :
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,611
    It's not all about price either as to which is better. My low line PS Audio kicked the snot out of Monsters top of the line for eliminating noise.

    Some just do a better job at their intended function than others. Much like some cdp's sound better than others, they all do the same thing though, right ? Obviously we aren't saying throw 3k worth of power conditioning/regeneration at a 1k system.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1430
    Tad 803 speakers
  • vcwatkinsvcwatkins Posts: 1,921
    IMO it's pretty much the same as with cables - try upgrading to see if it makes a difference in your system/room/house. It is a bit tougher to do with power because the good stuff seems to be pricey relative to other components and heavy, which restricts resale somewhat.

    I was very surprised at the degree of improvement in sound quality going to PS Audio Dectets and a Richard Gray RGPC from Furman, APC, and Panamax units. I ordered a PSA P3 to try as well.
    Den: Rega RP6 * AT33PTGII * Budgie SUT * Jolida jd9 * Roon (Sonic Transporter) * PS Audio DirectStream Jr. * Joule-Electra LA-100 mkIII * Sunfire Signature II * PSAudio PP3 * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 1.2
    Study: Roon * Sonore UltraRendu (LPS-1, WW Plat7, Iso Regen, Lush) * ProJect Pre Box S2 * Pass ACA * PSA Dectet * DH Labs Q10 * Brines Folded ML-TQWT RS 40-1354
    Studio: SBTouch * Marantz 2270 * Polk CRS+(4.1tl)
    Beach: Music Hall MMF5.1se * Speed Box II * DL103r * Lounge Copla/LCRIII * Sonore microRendu * Schiit Yggdrasil * Belles 20a Pre * Pass Aleph 30 / First Watt F5 Clone * PSA Dectet * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 2.3tl
    Beach Den: Dayens Menuetto * Fostex BK-12m Folded Horn / KEF LS50 / Dynaudio Audience 50 / Revel M22
    Beach Study: LG v30 phone * Schiit Aegir * Zu Omen Dirty W/end
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,072
    Have the Panamax MR 4300, picked it up 1/2 off at BB. Wasn't expecting anything, except better surge protection than the old Monster power strip type surge protector. Think I had that one for about 10 years, can't even remember the model number.

    Hard to tell where I heard a bigger difference, the Panamax or running the dedicated circuit. To me there was a big difference in everything in my HT system. Sound is clearer, and picture on the tv was even a little sharper.

    Guess it's just the opposite from subwoofers. If you never heard a good sub, you don't know what you're missing. With dirty power, you won't know what you're hearing until it's cleaned up to some degree.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,384
    I'd say power at my house is better than what I see many places. It's usually very steady. Never seen it dip below 117. Usually stays steady at 121, 122. That's the least of issues in the power grid. My gains were far from minimal.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • doctor rdoctor r Posts: 802
    edited February 2017
    Started years ago with Monster. Some improvement until I installed the dedicated lines and then comparing between straight to the wall and into the Monster, well the Monster found a new home. Had a chance to aquire the single outlet Audience aRp1 and ran it into a CryoParts 6 outlet box that actually improved the experience. I have since moved up the Audience line to the aR2p-TO for my VAC Renaissance and VAC amp with excellent results.
    VAC Renaissance mk5
    Ayre VX-5/20
    Ayre QX-5/20
    Origin Live Resolution Mk3-2 with LSC
    Origin Live Illustrious Mk3c
    Koetsu Rosewood Signature Platinum
    Ortofon Windfeld Ti
    Adona Eris 6dw
    Spendor D9
    Luminous Synestra Sig SC
    Audience AU24 SX XLRs
    Audience aR6-TSSD
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,176
    I have said for a few years now that clean power and vibration control are the foundation of a good stereo. If your foundation is weak then no matter what gear you use the end result will be weak. Now get some decent power cords and be prepared to really be impressed. :)

    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,611
    Nobody mentioned Running Springs , I know a few guys here own them. Tad on the expensive side but those who own one swear by them.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1430
    Tad 803 speakers
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,384
    Sounds like an Indian name...feathers not dots. I've never heard of them.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,250
    mantis wrote: »
    ...a power conditioner and surge system, it's not designed to make your system sound better.

    What it actually does is make (or allows) [your equipment] perform the way it was designed. Supplying clean, stable power, your devices all work correctly.
    SPOT ON and SO to the point.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • mantismantis Posts: 15,426
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    mantis wrote: »
    ...a power conditioner and surge system, it's not designed to make your system sound better.

    What it actually does is make (or allows) [your equipment] perform the way it was designed. Supplying clean, stable power, your devices all work correctly.
    SPOT ON and SO to the point.
    Others think other wise. I'm not here to argue their belief's. They can think whatever they want. It's cool with me.

    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,611
    mantis wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    mantis wrote: »
    ...a power conditioner and surge system, it's not designed to make your system sound better.

    What it actually does is make (or allows) [your equipment] perform the way it was designed. Supplying clean, stable power, your devices all work correctly.
    SPOT ON and SO to the point.
    Others think other wise. I'm not here to argue their belief's. They can think whatever they want. It's cool with me.

    I don't think otherwise Dan, your correct actually. However by everything running better, getting fed clean power, the side effect of that is what ? Your system sounding better....isn't it ? So while they are not designed to make your system sound better, the effect of what they are designed to do will.

    The rules of cause and effect apply here. An amp is designed to store power and deliver current. The side effect of that is better dynamics making your system sound....better, right ?

    Power conditioners/regenerators vary in this also. While they all do basically the same thing, which is what they are all designed to do anyway like you said, the manner of which they do it varies, the build quality varies, and thus the effects you will get on sound as the side effect will also vary. Make sense ?
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1430
    Tad 803 speakers
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,125
    Hi there,

    Please don't laugh at me for this...

    I currently have my nice (to me) goodies plugged into basic mid grade surge protectors I got from Costco. SDG&E guy said that is all I need.

    So should I toss one of the power conditioner on my upgrade list. If I do get one should I plug everything into (sub, AVR, TV and BD players)?

    For power cords I can't see buying $100 power cord for a $500 receiver or sub. I've been using the one my equipment came with.

    Try to take into consideration I am an IT Warehouse manager living in San Diego so funds are tight.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • If you like your stuff, get the best surge protection you can afford.
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,125
    If you like your stuff, get the best surge protection you can afford.

    OK, I will look into it, more reading time. The surge protectors I have now are decent.

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,125
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • How old is the panamax?

    I went with this;
    Furman PST-8D(igital)

    A bit pricey but it is supposed to drop output power on overages and
    sags. Some are let thru's. It's in use on the bedroom system...
    Not for amps however.

    @dskip may be able to chime in here.

    I used pro grade Tripp lite before an thought they were just o.k.
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,125
    So I go to BestBuy and the dude there was telling me about how these work. he shows me this one a lot better than the one I was looking at.

    https://www.amazon.com/Panamax-MR4000-Management-Protection-Conditioning/dp/B009MQTC52

    He got the price down to $140 for me so I got it.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,603
    What ever happened to the Richard Gray power plants? Those were the shiznit not too many tears ago.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,384
    Still around and still building work horses:http://www.richardgrayspowercompany.com/

    They are under new ownership, but, I don't think it was a major change. They sold to a group they had partnered with. Can find some good deals on them on the used market.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
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