Power Conditioner - Who's using one? Which one? Did it help your sound?

So my rig hasn't changed in 3-4 years (see my sig). I was thinking of changing my amp. It's an Aragon 8008 Mk II. So I googled reviews of it which reminded me that it's a pretty good amp, so maybe I should keep it. Had been perusing Mac, Pass, and Bryston. Solid state.

Anyways, during my research I stumbled across some dude saying that a power conditioner made a big improvement in his system. Naturally I take such claims with a grain of salt, but the rationale seems logical (dirty power, peak current, etc). Currently I'm just using a Belkin plug strip. All components plug into it. I can't plug my amp into the wall by itself and I'm not going to put in a dedicated 20 amp line or anything. For power conditioner I've been looking at the Furman Elite-15 PFi. At $700 it's a lot cheaper than an amp. I know you can go a lot higher, and a little lower. But I like the features for the price.

So my question for you guys is whether you're using a power conditioner and if so, which one? Did it help your sound? Etc.

Thanks,
Jet
System
Yamaha A-S3000 Integrated Amplifier
Sonus Faber Cremona Loudspeakers
PS Audio Directream Jr| Jolida JD-100A CDP | Sansui TU-9900 Tuner|TEAC A-6100 RtR
«1345

Comments

  • Monster power HTPS 7000MKII Signature series and the AVS-2000 Signature series.
    They keep the power line hash out and the protected my system earlier this month from a HUGE power surge.
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,825
    edited October 2016
    I was skeptical about power conditioners. When I bought my Monster HTS-3600mkII, it was marked down bit time when Circuit City was going out of business and I figured it would at least be good for protection plus the switching capabilities. The dang thing made me a believer in power conditioners. You can actually hear a difference.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,075
    Running a Panamax MR4300. Bought it because it was on sale, $100 off. It works. I've had lights flicker, and microwave clock not blinking, and the conditioner tripped.

    I heard a difference in the upper mid-range area. Seemed to be a more flatter response. Just my personal experience, in my room, with my gear. You may or may not hear a difference.

    Furman makes good stuff, at least according to the people who buy it. It will definitely offer better surge protection than the power strip you're currently using. Probably worth the price for that alone.

    Can you spend more money for a better product? Yes.

    Can you spend less for something just as good? Debatable.

    These people here are almost always right. We all hear things differently, so sometimes you won't hear a difference from a suggested upgrade, and sometimes you will. Personally I think you'll hear a difference, but I can't be sure that you will.

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    The specs for the Furman Elite-15 PFi state;

    "4 (power factor corrected amplifiler outlets - 3 amps RMS reserve - resistive load - over 45 amps peak charge, 2 switched with 5 second delay via 12V trigger)"

    Power factor corrected?

    IMO, if you are looking for audio grade, look at PS Audio or Shunyata. That's it.

    No offense to you Monster users, but their devices choke the music....heard it too many times over the years.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,642
    F1nut wrote: »
    The specs for the Furman Elite-15 PFi state;

    "4 (power factor corrected amplifiler outlets - 3 amps RMS reserve - resistive load - over 45 amps peak charge, 2 switched with 5 second delay via 12V trigger)"

    Power factor corrected?

    IMO, if you are looking for audio grade, look at PS Audio or Shunyata. That's it.

    No offense to you Monster users, but their devices choke the music....heard it too many times over the years.

    I might agree with that assessment.....from personal experiences with a Monster 5100 and PS Audio's lower line of power conditioners.

    Power conditioners range in prices like any piece of audio gear. All depends on what you want it to do. I wouldn't advise plugging an amp into it though as most consumer grade lower level power conditioners are current limiting.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1430
    Tad 803 speakers
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 91
    edited October 2016
    +1 on the PS Audio
    I use this to good effect. (not that I was having big noise issues to begin w/)
    http://hifiheaven.net/shop/PS-Audio-Dectet-Power-Center?language=en&currency=USD&gclid=CIz2xr34hNACFQkKaQodpbkCgA

    Nice amp. Are you having hum or noise issues? As others have said,
    a blacker background and better bass would be expected...
    Post edited by [Deleted User] on
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • ^^I use the same, it works well and is built like a tank.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; Cables ZU Mission IC's, SC and power cords, all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    All TV's sound enhanced by Polk Magnfi Mini's.

    Other; S60'S, M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All speakers have had crossover rebuilds, resulting in a small fortune invested in Sonicaps, and tweeter upgrades.

    Political memes posted as fact and accepted as fact, are sign language of the ignorant, for the ignorant

    tonyb said " but even socialists can do a good thing here and there

    Social media makes dumb people dumber and smart people dumb then dumber.
  • machonemachone Posts: 1,134
    Tripp-Lite LCR2400 for sources and preamp
    PS Audio Soloist for amp
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...SDA-1A (Fully Modded with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • jdjohnjdjohn Posts: 1,015
    I use a Chang Lightspeed and have been pleased, although my power amp goes directly into the wall, and the Chang is used for the all other components.
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator

    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
  • mrbironmrbiron Posts: 5,139
    PS Audio UPC-200

    Love the little guy. Have had it for almost 3 years now. Won't ever let it go even though it is sitting idle on a headphone setup that hasn't been used in 6 months. Time to rearrange!
    Zu Audio Omen MK-1B's, Peachtree Decco65, Bryston BDA-2, Cheap TT, PS Audio UPC200, PS Audio AC3's, Zu Mission SC's, HTPC, One, Bottlehead Crack w/Speedball, Senn's MD HD600
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 16,216
    I use Panamax now, but plan on moving to Shunyata or PS Audio over time. The Panamax fills a void for me, but like Jesse said, I haven't seen too many companies that really do it right for audio.
  • BlueMDPickerBlueMDPicker Old Polk Posts: 6,983
    edited October 2016
    I've acquired several PS Audio power products over the years (UPC-200's, Duet, Quintet, Juice Bar) and found all of them capable of lowering the noise floor of solid state and tube gear. Currently, I'm using their PerfectWave P3 regenerator on my main 2CH rig and consider it to be, IMHO, one of the best investments I've ever made in audio gear.

    P3.png

    Main 2CH: Wadia 301 CDP | PS Audio Digital Link III DAC with Cullen Level IV mods | Bluenote Bellavista Turntable with Boston Audio Design "The Mat 1", B5 Signature Arm and DV-20X2H | PS Audio GCPH Phono Preamp | PS Audio GCP-200 Preamp with External PS | Innersound Active Crossover/Bass Amp | Sanders Sound ESL Panel Amp | SVS PB12-Ultra/2 Sub | Innersound Eros MK III Hybrid ESL Speakers Horizontally Bi-Amped | PS Audio PerfectWave P3 Power Plant | All cabling MIT Shotgun S1 | GIK Acoustic Treatments |


  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,903
    I have 2 APC H15's.

    I temporarily have my Crown XLS2000 connected to the the downstairs, but under NO CIRCUMSTANCE do I plan to hook my B&K 200.5 up to it. In the downstairs system the APC H15 runs all my sources, TV, and my AVR. In my loft the APC H15 runs the entire setup, including the Anthem MRX-500 I am using to power my speakers.

    My goal for protection for my amp(s) are to pony up and install a whole home protector at the breaker as a first line of protection, and then "maybe" later on look at a Shuntya for just my amps, but thats a much later date.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • cvccvc Posts: 65
    Corey Greenburg, who used to write for Stereophile, recommended these conditioners back in the day.. The difference is like drinking tap water or bottled water.. Most if us drink bottled water to avoid a mouthful of sea monkees.. I use 2 of these Power Pack II's..

    http://www.audiopower.com/newsite/pp2.html
  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 2,046
    I moved-up the food chain to a regenerator, and I'm very happy with it.
    The Furman is an excellent product. But, I'll need to sell the good Elite-15 PF i to a worthy home . . . PM me if "innarested"
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
    Source PSA PWT into NSD Supremo
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Center Salk HT2C
    Pre Cary SLP-05
    Wires WW & MIT
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,180
    Spend some time on Shunyata's web site reading, and understanding, their technology. There aren't many audio companies who when they release a new product price it less than the previous line. The new Denali line is getting absolute stunning reviews all around, from the press, and customers. I won't be upgrading, but maybe in a few years to the next generation.

    I will say adding Shunyata power gear is better than adding a new piece of electronic gear. Of course, you do need to do it right with dedicated 20 amp lines.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • gurot1gurot1 Posts: 505
    edited October 2016
    GlennDog wrote: »
    I moved-up the food chain to a regenerator, and I'm very happy with it.
    The Furman is an excellent product. But, I'll need to sell the good Elite-15 PF i to a worthy home . . . PM me if "innarested"

    I see this message just after buying a used on online today (PFi 15)
    lsim705,lsim706c,fx500,rti4
    rti6,csi5...no rears on system 2
  • UpstatemaxUpstatemax Posts: 2,398
    F1nut wrote: »
    The specs for the Furman Elite-15 PFi state;

    "4 (power factor corrected amplifiler outlets - 3 amps RMS reserve - resistive load - over 45 amps peak charge, 2 switched with 5 second delay via 12V trigger)"

    Power factor corrected?

    IMO, if you are looking for audio grade, look at PS Audio or Shunyata. That's it.

    No offense to you Monster users, but their devices choke the music....heard it too many times over the years.

    Furman's power correction is a power reserve for sudden large power draws.

    Designed to make sure the conditioner does not choke off higher current equipment that might be hooked up.

    How is that a bad thing?
    Living room:
    Samsung PN50B860 50" Plasma : XBOX One : Roku Ultra : Oppo UDP-203 : Pioneer Elite SC-87 : APC H15 : Focal 806V mains : Focal 806V Surrounds : SVS SB2000 : SVS SB12-NSD

    2Ch:
    Sonus Faber Venere S : Parasound HCA 1500A : Oppo UDP-205 : Furman Elite 15 DM i : Sony XBR 55X810C Monitor :
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,903
    @GlennDog

    PM me about that Furman... it's a PITA to PM using my phone but I might be in the market....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • slbenzslbenz Posts: 97
    I use a Panamax Max 5100 and mainly because for two reasons. First, to get rid of the hum that is coming from my Xfinity cable box and two, to remotely turn on my power amps. As for sound, the main thing is elimination of the hum.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    You could have simply had the cable company properly ground the cable feed because the main thing should be the sound quality.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Upstatemax wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    The specs for the Furman Elite-15 PFi state;

    "4 (power factor corrected amplifiler outlets - 3 amps RMS reserve - resistive load - over 45 amps peak charge, 2 switched with 5 second delay via 12V trigger)"

    Power factor corrected?

    IMO, if you are looking for audio grade, look at PS Audio or Shunyata. That's it.

    No offense to you Monster users, but their devices choke the music....heard it too many times over the years.

    Furman's power correction is a power reserve for sudden large power draws.

    Designed to make sure the conditioner does not choke off higher current equipment that might be hooked up.

    How is that a bad thing?

    I didn't say it was a bad thing. I was questioning the terminology and methodology.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • CoolJazzCoolJazz Posts: 523
    Power factor correction comes into play when the current and voltage are not exactly 180 degrees from each other. Maximum power delivery occurs to the load when the current is at maximum at the moment the voltage swings to minimum and vice versa.

    In industrial loads, inductive loads of a lot of motors can cause power factor numbers to drop and more heating to occur, costs for the power delivery goes up and so forth. The fix is to use the proper amount of capacitance, in that case, to neutralize the inductance and restore proper timing and maximize power transfer.

    Saying that a device has included power factor correction means they assume to know the conditions of the power demand in your home situation without measuring the real world situation. As far as I know, pf correction normally in the vast majority of situations is the addition of capacitance. I'd hazard the guess in our systems our power demand might tend to be pretty capacitive already. Perhaps if the unit has a built in transformer, they are simply neutralizing it's inherent inductance or something. The concept that they could build in proper pf correction (or that it's even needed) seems pretty far fetched to me.

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."
  • CoolJazz wrote: »
    Power factor correction comes into play when the current and voltage are not exactly 180 degrees from each other. Maximum power delivery occurs to the load when the current is at maximum at the moment the voltage swings to minimum and vice versa.

    In industrial loads, inductive loads of a lot of motors can cause power factor numbers to drop and more heating to occur, costs for the power delivery goes up and so forth. The fix is to use the proper amount of capacitance, in that case, to neutralize the inductance and restore proper timing and maximize power transfer.

    Saying that a device has included power factor correction means they assume to know the conditions of the power demand in your home situation without measuring the real world situation. As far as I know, pf correction normally in the vast majority of situations is the addition of capacitance. I'd hazard the guess in our systems our power demand might tend to be pretty capacitive already. Perhaps if the unit has a built in transformer, they are simply neutralizing it's inherent inductance or something. The concept that they could build in proper pf correction (or that it's even needed) seems pretty far fetched to me.

    CJ

    Okay @CoolJazz can you translate that to English now please for the rest of us? ;)
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 10,501
    edited November 2016
    http://www.marway.com/technology/power-conditioning
    Brief summary of why and how bad power boogers up the signal and ways to condition it.
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,903
    edited November 2016
    Okay @CoolJazz can you translate that to English now please for the rest of us? ;)

    That didnt make sense to you? :wink:

    Mark is a smartypants :smile:

    Russ is I think "slightly" smarter than the average bear... but he does a GREAT job at making us think the opposite.... so that could be the case and I'm giving him more credit than he deserves :mrgreen:

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 10,501
    edited November 2016
    http://www.electricaleasy.com/2015/11/understanding-power-factor.html?m=1
    Power factor (pf) explanation with lagging and capacitive differentials from various load and voltage situations. Easy Peasy....

    And for any of you dingleberries still scoffing at cable sizing for current loads....
    read subpart 4.
  • It's not the size that counts IT'S WHAT YA DO WITH IT!! >:)
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 10,501
    It's not the size that counts IT'S WHAT YA DO WITH IT!! >:)

    :D Can't argue with ya, there!
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,250
    Yes on SQ. I recommend, as best you can, isolate your low power gear from your high power.

    But last year my (then new*) Outlaw 975 spent more time at Outlaw Repair than in my system before I bought** an APC H15*** power conditioner.

    It*** powers all my low power gear fed by a separate circuit. The high power gear fed by 2 dedicated 20 A circuits.
    * early May 2015
    ** mid December '15

    Some believe line conditioners* actually limit amp power - I agree.
    * unless they're ginormous
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!