Power Conditioner - Who's using one? Which one? Did it help your sound?

245

Comments

  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,073
    The OP is looking at something in the neighborhood of $700. Just wants to know if anybody thinks the sq will improve compared to no conditioning.

    Is Shunyata and/or PS Audio a better product. Of course it is, but they are also about 5 times more than what he's looking to spend.

    Everybody needs to get their feet wet. I personally think he will hear a difference if he plugs his gear into the Furman. This is like going from hardware store wire to Blue Jeans cable. Maybe to some not a really big jump, but to others it's huge.

    This is what the OP was asking. Will he hear a difference. Nothing more.

    Real simple jetmaker737, you will hear a difference. There are better products out there , but I understand that you may be scepticle. What you gain in a power conditioner is the lack of sound where it shouldn't be; that simple.

    Isolation units will give you even more lack of sound, which means even better sq, but it comes at a price. Buy the Furman, and see if you can hear a difference. At least you'll protect your gear from power surges/dips, so that would probably be worth it alone.

    The people on this forum know their stuff, but they really like to spend other people's money. Unfortunately sometimes they don't realize that some of us have a tight budget. You really shouldn't hold that against them. It's actually cheaper to do it right the first time, than it is to keep climbing up th food chain

    Go to 5 different sites, and you'll have 5 different recommendations of what to buy Personally happy with my Panamex, but would buy a Shunyata if funds were available. i personally think a power conditioner would make a huge difference in sq.
  • gurot1gurot1 Posts: 505
    edited November 2016
    I don't know if the Furman will choke power to the amps or how it will affect SQ. One of the benefits of the furman elite is that it does not have sacrificial parts (other than for the satellite(?telephone)). Thus it will work for power surges for many years to come.
    lsim705,lsim706c,fx500,rti4
    rti6,csi5...no rears on system 2
  • Stop me before I go off the tracks but,
    Doesn't PF correction usually entail switching from AC to DC and then back?
    Anyway, I would go w/ stuff made for HOME audio.
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • UpstatemaxUpstatemax Posts: 2,398
    I think a lot of you guys way overestimate how much power your systems actually draw.

    From what I can see in his sig, he is running a 2ch system. If I have to guess, if he is running his system to near ear bleeding levels he MAY be drawing 6 amps (probably closer to 5).

    I have my entire 2ch system hooked up through my Furman Elite 15 DMi. When I turn everything on and turn it up too loud, I might see 2.4 amps of draw.

    With larger speakers and extra electronics, I saw a shade over 4 amps.

    Clean power is important, but a lot of us do not use nearly as much power as we think we do.

    I doubt many of us are pushing our amps near their limits too often...
    Living room:
    Samsung PN50B860 50" Plasma : XBOX One : Roku Ultra : Oppo UDP-203 : Pioneer Elite SC-87 : APC H15 : Focal 806V mains : Focal 806V Surrounds : SVS SB2000 : SVS SB12-NSD

    2Ch:
    Sonus Faber Venere S : Parasound HCA 1500A : Oppo UDP-205 : Furman Elite 15 DM i : Sony XBR 55X810C Monitor :
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 16,197
    Stop me before I go off the tracks but,
    Doesn't PF correction usually entail switching from AC to DC and then back?
    Anyway, I would go w/ stuff made for HOME audio.

    If this is a dig against Furman, it is an illegitimate one. Furman has some pro gear, but many of their pieces, including the one jet bought on here, are designed with the home setup in mind. Panamax and Furman are one and the same, where Panamax is consumer grade and Furman is a notch up in quality. Furman is good stuff... maybe not Shunyata or PS Audio, but still good stuff. It is probably on a tier right below those names.
  • O.K., Furman isn't aimed at Pro Audio. The OP wanted something that
    would make a noticeable difference in sound quality.
    What Furman product will get him there?
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 10,496
    Okey dokey. The stuff I work with is nasty. In a pure power delivery way. Every point of attachment along the distribution system will cause a power factor loss beyond regulators or capacitors.
    Your utility provider doesn't care if your amp has 125v constant and end user.
    But at point of use, it can be "conditioned" . Lagging current is the culprit here. You can't expect a constant voltage at the point of delivery. I've seen voltage drop to 112v and peak at 128v at the same meter base.
    So.... if you are looking for stable voltage with a capacitor storage for transients...get the best "point of use" conditioner/regen.
  • I have my Sunfire amp and my center channel amp plugged into switched outlets on my Monster AVS-2000 (*which is essentially a variac*)
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 10,496
    I have my Sunfire amp and my center channel amp plugged into switched outlets on my Monster AVS-2000 (*which is essentially a variac*)

    Good point. Variac voltage regulator.
  • Thanks @lightman1
    The Monster Power 7000 is also plugged into the AVS-2000. If some on here don't like Monster that is fine for them and their systems. It works for me and mine.
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • I'm picking up the Furman unit from GlennDog. I'll report back on my impressions after some time with it. Some real good discussion here. Why I've always liked this site.
    System
    Yamaha A-S3000 Integrated Amplifier
    Sonus Faber Cremona Loudspeakers
    PS Audio Directream Jr| Jolida JD-100A CDP | Sansui TU-9900 Tuner|TEAC A-6100 RtR
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 16,197
    O.K., Furman isn't aimed at Pro Audio. The OP wanted something that
    would make a noticeable difference in sound quality.
    What Furman product will get him there?

    The one he got should. Perhaps it won't, but the only reason I don't have that unit he has is because I haven't built up the funds to jump on one yet. It is possible it won't yield any results for him, but at the price he paid it was a safe investment.
  • UpstatemaxUpstatemax Posts: 2,398
    DSkip wrote: »
    O.K., Furman isn't aimed at Pro Audio. The OP wanted something that
    would make a noticeable difference in sound quality.
    What Furman product will get him there?

    The one he got should. Perhaps it won't, but the only reason I don't have that unit he has is because I haven't built up the funds to jump on one yet. It is possible it won't yield any results for him, but at the price he paid it was a safe investment.

    I can't imagine that it won't.

    I have the Elite 15 DMi and it made a very positive impact on my system.

    I have my entire 2ch system hooked to it, including amp. MUCH blacker background and improved detail.

    I even have pretty darn stable, consistent power.
    Living room:
    Samsung PN50B860 50" Plasma : XBOX One : Roku Ultra : Oppo UDP-203 : Pioneer Elite SC-87 : APC H15 : Focal 806V mains : Focal 806V Surrounds : SVS SB2000 : SVS SB12-NSD

    2Ch:
    Sonus Faber Venere S : Parasound HCA 1500A : Oppo UDP-205 : Furman Elite 15 DM i : Sony XBR 55X810C Monitor :
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,250
    ...my center channel amp...
    Which is your CC amp? Couldn't determine from your sig.

    Sorry for thread derail, guys

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus wrote: »
    ...my center channel amp...
    Which is your CC amp? Couldn't determine from your sig.

    Sorry for thread derail, guys

    @gp4jesus
    I have the Polk CS-1000p.Which is essentially a CS-400 with a pair of powered subs on each end.
    Look below here at my equipment listing.
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 2,045
    but at the price he paid it was a safe investment.

    I wanted to price it right, but shipping killed me to the other side of the country
    For the price, it's a fantastic piece almost 10 out of 10 in appearance/cosmetics & functionality
    You WILL dig it, bro!
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
    Source PSA PWT into NSD Supremo
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Center Salk HT2C
    Pre Cary SLP-05
    Wires WW & MIT
  • gurot1gurot1 Posts: 505
    Interesting read this thread is. Interested to hear your impressions of the pfi15. My furman pfi15 just made it to my town via UPS. I just have to self clear the customs payments (will be the first time I try this, wish me luck) so I don't have to pay all those UPS brokerage fees and then pick it up. I will let you guys know what I hear...but my ears aren't the best. Too bad none of you seasoned veterans are close by. If there does happen to be some polkie in my neck of the woods that wants to try it out, I am sure I can lend it for a trial to see if it makes a difference in your system.
    lsim705,lsim706c,fx500,rti4
    rti6,csi5...no rears on system 2
  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,823
    Seems to me that the realized benefit is primarily dependent on the quality of the power at the outlet. If it is poor then greater benefit will be realized with a conditioner. Power factor correction adds to the benefit.

    Monster gets little love but they make some decent stuff and the only crime is that it is usually over priced and over hyped. If you get it at a steep discount than good. I was pleasantly surprised that I actually heard benefit with my HTS-3600ii and given that I paid $130, I can't complain. Furman and others are probably better.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,250
    edited November 2016
    ...my center channel amp...
    Which is your CC amp? Couldn't determine from your sig.

    Googled CS1000p and discovered the RT3000p - WOW! Kinda did that to my RTi A7s by tri-amping one channel so far. CC to follow the left channel, but...

    ...the Sunfire drives the CC's MT? And is that SK-6506 tweeter something you did? Or did it come that way. I'm afraid to XO the RD-690 tweeter much below 2.6K

    Thanks. Again sorry for thread derail, guys

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Rick88Rick88 Posts: 13,088
    edited November 2016
    I've owned and APC H15 for several years now. I've only used it for my sources, never for amps of any kind except small 40-60 watt integrateds. I've always read that some of these kind of units can limit current and your best bet is to plug your amp directly into the wall outlet.

    After reading this thread, and especially Upstatemax and lightman's posts because their explanations sound logical to me, I decided to do an experiment. I plugged my current amp into it and I'll leave it that way for a week and see if I notice any difference. My amp is a Cambridge Audio 651R. It has a large power supply with a massive (one of the most overused terms in amp specs that makes me laugh sometimes :) ) toroidal transformer and 2 big 22,000uf caps. It puts out 140 wpc with 2 channels driven (how I listen most of the time) & 100 wpc with 7 channels driven (both honest ratings).

    I have seen the incoming voltage range from 117 to 128 volts according to the meter on the H15, though it usually doesn't deviate from 120-122 much. Plus there's the surge protection gained. It'll be fun to watch the meter and see how many amps I am drawing depending on how loud I am listening. Right now I am listening to Dire Straits Brothers In Arms on SACD at comfortable and good sounding levels of 82-85 db averages and my amp is drawing 1.5 to 2.0 amps of current. I'm going to leave the front panel lights on a dim setting to keep an eye on the amp draw. B)

    I'll report my findings at a later time...

    j17ro40yqzn1.jpg


    "Life is one grand, sweet song, so start the music." ~ Ronald Reagan

    “I love songs about horses, railroads, land, Judgment Day, family, hard times, whiskey, courtship, marriage, adultery, separation, murder, war, prison, rambling, damnation, home, salvation, death, pride, humor, piety, rebellion, patriotism, larceny, determination, tragedy, rowdiness, heartbreak and love. And Mother. And God.” ~ Johnny Cash




  • Rick88Rick88 Posts: 13,088
    pqnpobgtpkdq.jpg
    "Life is one grand, sweet song, so start the music." ~ Ronald Reagan

    “I love songs about horses, railroads, land, Judgment Day, family, hard times, whiskey, courtship, marriage, adultery, separation, murder, war, prison, rambling, damnation, home, salvation, death, pride, humor, piety, rebellion, patriotism, larceny, determination, tragedy, rowdiness, heartbreak and love. And Mother. And God.” ~ Johnny Cash




  • Rick88Rick88 Posts: 13,088
    edited November 2016
    If I'm only drawing 11% of the H15's available power at the levels I listen to most often, there should be no problems at all with my amp getting enough current, no?

    rgka28gvtwjp.jpg
    "Life is one grand, sweet song, so start the music." ~ Ronald Reagan

    “I love songs about horses, railroads, land, Judgment Day, family, hard times, whiskey, courtship, marriage, adultery, separation, murder, war, prison, rambling, damnation, home, salvation, death, pride, humor, piety, rebellion, patriotism, larceny, determination, tragedy, rowdiness, heartbreak and love. And Mother. And God.” ~ Johnny Cash




  • Rick88Rick88 Posts: 13,088
    edited November 2016
    12 Amps of output current? I'll never use nowhere near that much.

    yhpqqzpww8b6.jpg
    "Life is one grand, sweet song, so start the music." ~ Ronald Reagan

    “I love songs about horses, railroads, land, Judgment Day, family, hard times, whiskey, courtship, marriage, adultery, separation, murder, war, prison, rambling, damnation, home, salvation, death, pride, humor, piety, rebellion, patriotism, larceny, determination, tragedy, rowdiness, heartbreak and love. And Mother. And God.” ~ Johnny Cash




  • the other 3 amps (20%) are saved for peaks
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • gp4jesus wrote: »
    ...my center channel amp...
    Which is your CC amp? Couldn't determine from your sig.

    Googled CS1000p and discovered the RT3000p - WOW! Kinda did that to my RTi A7s by tri-amping one channel so far. CC to follow the left channel, but...

    ...the Sunfire drives the CC's MT? And is that SK-6506 tweeter something you did? Or did it come that way. I'm afraid to XO the RD-690 tweeter much below 2.6K

    Thanks. Again sorry for thread derail, guys

    Tony

    @gp4jesus
    The CS-1000P comes with an SL-6502 tweeter.The 6506 tweeter is the one that they used when the CS-400 center got upgraded to "i" status. It's a better tweeter,so I replaced the SL-6502 in the CS-1000P with the SL-6506. Again the CS-1000P is a CS-400 with a pair of powered subs on each end. So it has an AC cord for the amp that powers the subs. That cord is plugged into a switched outlet on the Monster AVS-2000 voltage regulator unit. The CS-1000P is capable of being bi-wired/bi-amped just like the CS-400,so I am running the "Voltage" output from the center channel on my Sunfire amp to the mid woofers and the "Current" output to the tweeter just like I did with my CS-400. The sub amp in the CS-1000P is driven off of the speaker level inputs. Or you can use a line level input to drive it.
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,620
    Rick,
    Everything depends on....well, everything. Amps store power theoretically, and use those reserves for those quick transients. However if your habits are loud music or loud movies over a period of time then those reserves of the amp get depleted and it wants more power, more current draw from the wall. This is where you can run into problems with an amp plugged into these current limiting power conditioners.

    Depends on the power conditioner, depends on the amp, your listening habits, etc. It's not a one size fits all scenario.

    As a rule of thumb in the audio world, it's always better to have more power than not enough, more power reserves so you never run out. Over protection, than too little. Better power conditioners, than too cheaply made.

    The ones that use MOV devices are one hit wonders. Meaning they can handle surges, might clean up some noise in the signal, but if they take anywhere near a direct hit they are toast. I had lightning hit 100 feet away and my Monster 5100 was toasted. If your going to spend upwards of 300 bucks for a power conditioner, least get one without these MOV devices so you don't lose 500 bucks in one shot like I did.

    Those Mov devices too, like the poly switches in speakers, get weaker over time as they open and close frequently depending on use.

    A better example, which is the reason I'm posting, is just this last week I had another lightning strike closer to the house. It actually blew out the retaining wall to my pond that was 4 feet high and spread out those blocks 100 feet away. The PS Audio power conditioner didn't even blink, and it's in the corner of the house closest to the pond.

    We buy power conditioners as an insurance policy, peace of mind, sound quality is a side benefit. If you want peace of mind, move away from power conditioners with MOV devices in them. Just my .02 from experience is all.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1430
    Tad 803 speakers
  • recoveryonerecoveryone Posts: 774
    edited January 2017
    I was late to the power conditioner game, thinking it was for people that lived in older homes or out in the sticks. A simple Panamax 500 on my 2ch setup in the living room sold me and I went out and picked up a M5300-EX for the HT rig and it paid off big, it not only tighten up the bass on the subs, but saved my 55" from the dreaded dying pixel graying. By providing the full and clean power it needed to wake up those pixels and the screen pops again. The 500 cut out a popping I was getting through the wall as the living room shares the same circuit as the kitchen. Now I just picked up a M5100-EX to upgrade the 500, putting that one in the downstairs bedroom and I have 2 M5300-EX coming for the systems in the up stairs rooms. I have a M5100 in the master bedroom
    Family Room HT 7.2/i]:
    Vizio P55-E1UHD Pioneer Elite SC-LX502 Pioneer Elite BDP 85FD Pioneer Elite N-50 Panamax M5300-EX
    Living room 2ch:
    Integra ADM 2.1 Teac EQ MKII Squeezebox Touch Fluance SX Speakers Panamax M5100-EX
    Upstairs media room:
    Vizio D1 32" Pioneer Elite VSX 32 Sony PS4 Squeezebox Touch Polkaudio Rti 6's fronts Polk CSR Center Polkaudio PSW 10 sub Panamax M5300-EX
    Master bedroom:
    Vizio VF550M Pioneer Elite VSX 33 Pioneer Elite BDP 80FD Squeezebox Touch Polk audio Monitor 40 II fronts, Rears Dayton B652 Jensen CCS center Polkaudio PSW 10 sub Panamax 5100
  • good point on the video. I don't remember, but I probably wasn't considering that.
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • WillowWillow Posts: 9,702
    lightman1 wrote: »
    http://www.electricaleasy.com/2015/11/understanding-power-factor.html?m=1
    Power factor (pf) explanation with lagging and capacitive differentials from various load and voltage situations. Easy Peasy....

    And for any of you dingleberries still scoffing at cable sizing for current loads....
    read subpart 4.

    Holy dude , you sound smart!
    2Ch- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607, Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 1 and AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Signal Dig Coax, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung 55JS7000, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Marantz DV-4200 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII, Android Mi Box3 and Apple TV. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Polk Patio 25x4, Rotel RDV 1045 (as CDP) MIT AVT3 ICs - Work - Spotify Premium or Neutron App to my FiiO Kunlun into my Grado SR125e

  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 10,611
    Willow wrote: »
    lightman1 wrote: »
    http://www.electricaleasy.com/2015/11/understanding-power-factor.html?m=1
    Power factor (pf) explanation with lagging and capacitive differentials from various load and voltage situations. Easy Peasy....

    And for any of you dingleberries still scoffing at cable sizing for current loads....
    read subpart 4.

    Holy dude , you sound smart!

    Seeing is believing, kinda goes with beauty is in the eye of the beholder
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
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