Equipment Racks

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  • stangman67stangman67 Posts: 788
    edited February 8
    tonyb wrote: »
    stangman67 wrote: »
    What do think of BDI? Are they quality pieces? I’m looking for something around 48 inches wide.

    The VTI BL503 is a great rack, Its 44" wide. I run one in my 2 channel setup
    XMkEuCF.jpg

    Nice man, sweet, clean looking set-up. How's those Focals breaking in for ya ?


    Focals are sounding good. Mullards have been the best tube match so far as the top end is still strong on those speakers
    2 Channel
    BlueSound Node 2 Streaming Tidal I Marantz SA8005 I Music Hall MMF7.3 I Lounge Audio LCR Mk III I Backert Labs Rhumba 1.1 I B&K Ref 200.2 I Focal Aria 926 I Wireworld Eclipse 7 IC's I Acoustic Zen Satori SC I Pangea AC14SE MkII/PS Audio AC-3 Power Cables

    Living Room HT
    Sony XBR65X930E I Marantz NR-1608 I Q Acoustics 2020i I Q Acoustics 3090c I FXI-A4's I DIY 15" Dayton SW

  • soundfreak1soundfreak1 Posts: 2,823
    If she played her cards right......she could get lucky with me!
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • muncybobmuncybob Posts: 1,890
    That VTI BL503 is something we might consider. A reservation though would be how does it handle being bumped by a wife running a vacuum cleaner? Do the points sit into a dimple of some sort to help lock/stabilize the shelves?
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500, Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Oppo BDP93, "upgraded" Polk SDA 2B.
  • marvda1marvda1 Posts: 3,192
    yes they do.
    Amplifiers: MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800, Usher R1.5
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Transport/Dac: Cayin Venus cd-100i, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkI
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra
    Speaker Cables: Analysis Plus Black Mesh Oval 9, Cerious Technologies Graphene Extreme
    Interconnects: Analysis Plus Copper Oval-In Micro, MG Audio Design Planus Cu2,
    Cerious Technologies Graphene Extreme
    Power Cables by: Cullen Cables, 6sons Audio, Swiss Cables
  • stangman67stangman67 Posts: 788
    edited February 11
    Yop the stand is extremely stable. You’d have to hit it with a truck to know one of the “shelving units off
    2 Channel
    BlueSound Node 2 Streaming Tidal I Marantz SA8005 I Music Hall MMF7.3 I Lounge Audio LCR Mk III I Backert Labs Rhumba 1.1 I B&K Ref 200.2 I Focal Aria 926 I Wireworld Eclipse 7 IC's I Acoustic Zen Satori SC I Pangea AC14SE MkII/PS Audio AC-3 Power Cables

    Living Room HT
    Sony XBR65X930E I Marantz NR-1608 I Q Acoustics 2020i I Q Acoustics 3090c I FXI-A4's I DIY 15" Dayton SW

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    Trying to put together my VTI rack right now, and one of the points doesn't line up with it's recession below. It's "off" and not aligned properly. Not sure how to get around this.
    Got Dayens?
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,564
    IS the post cross threaded possibly, causing it to be slightly canted> IDK, just spit balling.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    Nope. All of the points have screwed in fine so far with no cross threading or seizing issues.

    It's just the physical alignment of that corner's shaft I think. If I grab it super hard and pull it aligns, and then when I let go it goes back to misaligned. It's like the metal frame itself and/or the welds are slightly off.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    IS the post cross threaded possibly, causing it to be slightly canted> IDK, just spit balling.

    Got Dayens?
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    xp3mm5cuzwzg.png
    Got Dayens?
  • machonemachone Posts: 1,017
    It should align itself once the rack is loaded with equipment . I had one like that with my VTI.
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 24 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts PA-6 Elite Mod)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modified)...SDA-1A (Fully Modified with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • Tony MTony M Posts: 6,254
    Looks like that's one of the 12" legs. Right?
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    edited February 18
    I used my feeble nerd arms to use brute force and bend it, and now it's aligning better. Yay.
    machone wrote: »
    It should align itself once the rack is loaded with equipment . I had one like that with my VTI.

    Edit: Tony, it was one of the 7" sections.
    Tony M wrote: »
    Looks like that's one of the 12" legs. Right?

    Got Dayens?
  • TNTsTunesTNTsTunes Posts: 754
    edited February 18
    Clipdat wrote: »
    xp3mm5cuzwzg.png

    Does the top side line up correctly?

    You could stick a pipe that just fits in it and try some manual persuasion. That should work.

    It just needs a bit of caressing.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • SCompRacerSCompRacer Posts: 6,931
    edited February 18
    VTI has suggested to folks whack the leg with a rubber mallet. Experience with hammer wielding to achieve a desired result will help assure a positive outcome. One could dent the leg though.

    TNT's above suggestion sounds good. The caps come off easily, just be careful of the finish.

    Or like machone said, load it.
    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ & Pro 11+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS* Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    Yeah, I see now in the instruction manual that they mention a rubber mallet may be necessary due to things getting knocked out of alignment during "shipping and handling".

    AKA, if your rack was made at the factory on a Monday vs. a Friday. :)
    Got Dayens?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,489
    They've had issues like that going back years and years and why I'll never recommend a VTI rack or stands. You'd think by now they would have fixed their quality control problems.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    edited February 19
    I figured at this price point that the quality would be better than this.

    I had a few more alignment issues with another frame piece. The end caps did not seem to be hammered down all the way, they are simply not installed evenly. I couldn't get them to budge, but I might try putting a towel over them tomorrow and giving some light taps with a hammer to see if I can fully seat them.

    Additionally, two of the end caps that you screw the spikes into had little raised lips on the surface where the spike meets the cap - the metal wasn't completely flat like the others. As a result, the spike's alignment when fully screwed in is skewed and not straight/90 degrees.

    This isn't "oh it might have gotten misaligned during shipping", but rather straight up poor quality control.
    F1nut wrote: »
    They've had issues like that going back years and years and why I'll never recommend a VTI rack or stands. You'd think by now they would have fixed their quality control problems.

    Got Dayens?
  • marvda1marvda1 Posts: 3,192
    when you put equipment with weight on the shelf it will align.
    Amplifiers: MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800, Usher R1.5
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Transport/Dac: Cayin Venus cd-100i, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkI
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra
    Speaker Cables: Analysis Plus Black Mesh Oval 9, Cerious Technologies Graphene Extreme
    Interconnects: Analysis Plus Copper Oval-In Micro, MG Audio Design Planus Cu2,
    Cerious Technologies Graphene Extreme
    Power Cables by: Cullen Cables, 6sons Audio, Swiss Cables
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    The section that I posted about earlier is the only one that required brute force to try to bend and fix the alignment, which I was able to do.

    The others are aligned as it stands currently, it's just visually disappointing to see the silver caps not installed correctly and two of the spikes coming down at something other than a 90 degree angle. That's what I meant about poor quality control.

    It's just not built to as exacting standards of fit and finish that I would expect for the price. Shrug.
    marvda1 wrote: »
    when you put equipment with weight on the shelf it will align.

    Got Dayens?
  • halohalo Posts: 4,419
    Sadly, you never know what you're going to get these days. The rack I had from VTI had no issues whatsoever. Sorry about the trouble you're experiencing with it.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,564
    Clipdat wrote: »
    The section that I posted about earlier is the only one that required brute force to try to bend and fix the alignment, which I was able to do.

    The others are aligned as it stands currently, it's just visually disappointing to see the silver caps not installed correctly and two of the spikes coming down at something other than a 90 degree angle. That's what I meant about poor quality control.

    It's just not built to as exacting standards of fit and finish that I would expect for the price. Shrug.
    marvda1 wrote: »
    when you put equipment with weight on the shelf it will align.

    Though these are nice looking racks, and, appear to be decent solid racks, they are, by far, on the lower end of the price spectrum when it comes to audio racks. If you can get it lined up after putting some weight on it, and are happy with the overall look and stability, I'd forget all about that little detail and be thankful that you got a nice looking, fairly stable rack at that price point. I'm still balking at spending somewhere in the $2K-$3k range for what is still a "fairly priced" rack. I'm seeing stuff in the $10k and up range.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    I should be used to it by now. It seems like with every major purchase I make there's something not quite right. I have bad luck I guess.
    halo wrote: »
    Sadly, you never know what you're going to get these days. The rack I had from VTI had no issues whatsoever. Sorry about the trouble you're experiencing with it.

    I would expect this quality out of the sub $100 Monoprice rack listed earlier in this thread, not a $400+ VTI.

    The caps not being assembled correctly and the spikes coming out at a wonky angle are more than a "little detail", imo. The fact is, it doesn't look like the product photo shown on their website.

    I get that made in China stuff can vary wildly in quality, but I don't think you'd be happy either if you just had purchased this, despite it being on the cheaper side of audio racks.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    Though these are nice looking racks, and, appear to be decent solid racks, they are, by far, on the lower end of the price spectrum when it comes to audio racks. If you can get it lined up after putting some weight on it, and are happy with the overall look and stability, I'd forget all about that little detail and be thankful that you got a nice looking, fairly stable rack at that price point. I'm still balking at spending somewhere in the $2K-$3k range for what is still a "fairly priced" rack. I'm seeing stuff in the $10k and up range.

    Got Dayens?
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,789
    edited February 19
    It's pretty difficult to illustrate the issues in photos, but here are some anyway:

    kd75nzyozxhv.jpg
    xt002w9dhq2g.jpg
    5pe1114cntxf.jpg
    u23honftd01p.jpg
    r2855rk0fbdg.jpg

    All of the other metal shelf units are "acceptable", but this one should not have passed QC, imo. I'm tempted to just order another shelf.
    Got Dayens?
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 3,480
    kharp1 wrote: »
    Those are typically much higher maintenance.

    In a word: Yes.

    Plus, sometimes the "spikes" come out at a wonky angle.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,564
    edited February 19
    @Clipdat It looks like the end caps aren't seated properly. As if they went in slightly [email protected] eyed and aren't seated flush thereby throwing off the projection of the spikes, or, the receiving cup. Might try taking the spike out and lightly tapping with a mallet, or dead blow, to see if they seat properly. Should use a piece of sacrificial wood covered in tape to keep from marring the surface.

    Yeah, I'd be a little ticked, but, would make a decision to try and fix, or, return it. No hill too high...
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • soundfreak1soundfreak1 Posts: 2,823
    In this price level that is inexcusable and totally unacceptable! I'd be raising hell.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 6,634
    My VTI is not anything like that one... everything looks good and aligned. I bought mine 10y ago.

    Sorry buddy, do they send you new endcaps or replace the stands in question?
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • SCompRacerSCompRacer Posts: 6,931
    Having owned a couple of VTI racks, the end caps on the older racks were much thicker than the new ones.

    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ & Pro 11+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS* Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

  • delkaldelkal Posts: 328
    kharp1 wrote: »
    @Clipdat It looks like the end caps aren't seated properly. As if they went in slightly [email protected] eyed and aren't seated flush thereby throwing off the projection of the spikes, or, the receiving cup. Might try taking the spike out and lightly tapping with a mallet, or dead blow, to see if they seat properly. Should use a piece of sacrificial wood covered in tape to keep from marring the surface.

    Yeah, I'd be a little ticked, but, would make a decision to try and fix, or, return it. No hill too high...

    I agree that the caps are not fully seated. But I think the bigger problem is the legs are not aligned. I would try and remove all of the endcaps and bend the legs till they are aligned with each other. Then place one on top of the other to check the fit and make sure the legs match up perfectly, it looks like yours are 1/8 - 1/4 inch off.

    And be careful bending! When everything lines up seat the endcaps fully with the mallet and wood.
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