Equipment Racks
Comments
-
Yeah that’s a wobble alrightMagico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
-
I thought the point of an audio rack was to reduce vibration.
Actually, it’s purpose is to hold the gear.
.
Vibration is a major issue in higher end, revealing systems, and a good rack should absorb vibrations, and keep it from the gear. However, that is easier said than done, as you are finding out. Good luck.
Sometimes stuff happens. When I was putting together my Mapleshade rack some of the ‘nuts’ that go on the steel legs to support the shelves were improperly threaded, and wouldn’t go on. They sent out replacements, and all is well, but it still was an irritant at the time.
Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Emphasis on "audio" rack, versus just a regular piece of furniture or shelving. An "audio" rack should have a design goal to reduce vibration.
That's what I meant.Actually, it’s purpose is to hold the gear..
-
Maybe it's time to returnMagico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
-
I couldn't find any terms and conditions on their site in regards to returns, but on another site that sells their stuff (standsandmounts.com) their terms mention no returns on opened/assembled products - exchanges only.
So, don't think a "return" is an option at this point. Also neither me, nor VTI is going to want to foot the bill for return shipping, that's for sure.Maybe it's time to return
-
I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.
-
I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.
Agree.Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.
Yes. LOL
I was so happy with my Mapleshade rack for the stereo, I bought a five shelf, single width, rack for the HT. Spent an hour or more assembling it, and it looked wrong, and it was wrong. Tilted to the right, and wobbly. Disassembled it and then slowly put it back together. The problem was the steel poles for the shelves screw into brass footers. If they all aren’t screwed into the same depth then you get a FUBAR rack.
Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.
Yes. LOL
I was so happy with my Mapleshade rack for the stereo, I bought a five shelf, single width, rack for the HT. Spent an hour or more assembling it, and it looked wrong, and it was wrong. Tilted to the right, and wobbly. Disassembled it and then slowly put it back together. The problem was the steel poles for the shelves screw into brass footers. If they all aren’t screwed into the same depth then you get a FUBAR rack.
I love the utilitarian, beefy look of the Mapleshade rack. -
When I buy a rack I’m going to do my best to buy a Grand Prix Audio Monaco. When I grow up.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
-
When you grow up Joey you want an Adona rack. I'll argue there is none better and I've got nothing in the game.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
This is the wobble/oscillation I'm talking about. I'm lightly pushing on the column.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Owx0bDh9fWY
Sledge hammer, video posted on YouTube. Buy an Adona.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Kerry, there's literally nothing to "disassemble". It's just **** frames that sit on top of other **** frames. Nothing was "square and true" as it arrived from the factory. How am I supposed to make it "square and true" short of starting over from where it was flawed initially which is the factory worker welding them on the jig?
It's not going to magically stop wobbling and oscillating rapidly if I adjust the frames a few millimeters. It's an inherently flawed design and it's a piece of ****. Filling the tiny section of tubes isn't going to do jack **** to add any "rigidity" to it.
Sorry for the rant, but I'm beyond pissed off about this.I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.
-
The end caps screw on and off, so, I'd start by taking them off and checking threads to verify that none are cross threaded. Then, after doing that, I'd set each section down on something flat and level, and check the piece for trueness. If its true I'd fill it with shot. I'd do the same for each section. If there is one that's not right I would find out where it's out and gently persuade it back to true, fill it with shot and put it back together.
-
The end caps don't screw on and off, they are press fit and/or glued. The only thing with threads that screws on or off are the spikes.
Verifying that each section is true, flat, and level would not help align the rack. This is due to the spikes and cups being off as described in earlier posts on this thread. What I actually had to do to get each spike and cap to line up is align each frame section to it's adjacent frame.
It already required several hours of bending/persuasion of the frame pieces, in order to get it how it is now with the spikes actually sitting in their respective cups.
I appreciate your suggestions, but this thing is beyond any sort of repair at this point. It's a piece of junk that belongs in the garbage.The end caps screw on and off, so, I'd start by taking them off and checking threads to verify that none are cross threaded. Then, after doing that, I'd set each section down on something flat and level, and check the piece for trueness. If its true I'd fill it with shot. I'd do the same for each section. If there is one that's not right I would find out where it's out and gently persuade it back to true, fill it with shot and put it back together.
Post edited by Clipdat on -
Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.
-
From their website:
Q: How to fill sand or metal bits?
A: Before you screw the spikes on, fill it with sand or metal bits. Screw the spikes on and turn the unit over.Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.
Anyway, why are you getting hung up on a technicality regarding how to fill the little poles with lead shot? That's not going to suddenly save the design and make it so it doesn't wobble excessively with a turntable on the top rack. It's a lost cause. -
From their website:
Q: How to fill sand or metal bits?
A: Before you screw the spikes on, fill it with sand or metal bits. Screw the spikes on and turn the unit over.Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.
Anyway, why are you getting hung up on a technicality regarding how to fill the little poles with lead shot? That's not going to suddenly save the design and make it so it doesn't wobble excessively with a turntable on the top rack. It's a lost cause.
No offense here, but, you're an IT guy with very limited skills in the construction area. That's not me, but, paraphrasing you. I, on the other hand, design and build all levels of electrical and robotic components, and all necessary hardware to install and support, as my career. I'm not hung up on anything except telling you how, exactly, I would go about diagnosing and fixing this problem. This isn't rocket science, and, shot is a universally know product used to aid in deadening. The added weight, along with proper aligning, squaring, and plumbing, would probably make for a very nice, solid rack.
This is the last I will comment as you appear to have gotten the answer figured out on your own and seem somewhat irritated at, what to some, seems to be a simple task. Peace. -
@kharp1 if you're willing I will pay for round trip shipping from @Clipdat to you!
I would also give it a go but work is killing me right now!
What d'ya say @kharp1 ?
See @Clipdat Karma may befall you as well!Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Sorry Kerry, but even with your impressive credentials, not even you could polish this.No offense here, but, you're an IT guy with very limited skills in the construction area. That's not me, but, paraphrasing you. I, on the other hand, design and build all levels of electrical and robotic components, and all necessary hardware to install and support, as my career. I'm not hung up on anything except telling you how, exactly, I would go about diagnosing and fixing this problem. This isn't rocket science, and, shot is a universally know product used to aid in deadening. The added weight, along with proper aligning, squaring, and plumbing, would probably make for a very nice, solid rack.
This is the last I will comment as you appear to have gotten the answer figured out on your own and seem somewhat irritated at, what to some, seems to be a simple task. Peace.
Amusing suggestion, but that would be an epic waste of money.
Post edited by [Deleted User] on -
No waste my friend. I’ve reworked welded pieces before. Just need the right tools. The press on end caps will indeed come off. Etc. What do you have to lose?Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Might as well just directly Paypal me that $250+ that shipping would cost, so I can put it toward a legit audio rack from a reputable company with proper engineering/design, and made with accuracy and precision.No waste my friend. I’ve reworked welded pieces before. Just need the right tools. The press on end caps will indeed come off. Etc. What do you have to lose?
-
You're right, it's impossible, let's move on.
-
A local shop carries Salamander and Core Audio Designs, so I might go check them out in person to see about their stability.
http://coreaudiodesigns.com/products/component-racks/ -
A local shop carries Salamander and Core Audio Designs, so I might go check them out in person to see about their stability.
http://coreaudiodesigns.com/products/component-racks/
Very nice! I like the Salamander's as they are infinitely adjustable.Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Do you have to level each shelf? Are the threaded posts one long continuous shaft?Very nice! I like the Salamander's as they are infinitely adjustable.
-
Yep you would. You could mark the threaded rod, but any fine tuning to get em level would require turning the nuts a bit. I believe they are a continuous shaft.Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Interesting. Well, I have a bubble level like this that I got for my TT:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0105/4542/products/ortofon-bubblelevel_1200x.jpg?v=1421686419Yep you would. You could mark the threaded rod, but any fine tuning to get em level would require turning the nuts a bit. I believe they are a continuous shaft.
-
-
here's the adona entry level racks.
http://www.adonacorporation.com/modular.htmlAmplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
Speaker Cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
Interconnects: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
Digital cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2 bnc, Tellurium Q aes, Silnote Audio Poseidon Signature 2 bnc
Puritan PSM156
