Equipment Racks

145791019

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  • leftwinger57leftwinger57 Posts: 2,904
    Sorry to hear and see that your rack buying journey was/is so painful. To Doug's credit if the VTI stands are not meeting up w/ any standards and can not back them then he has to drop them as a supplier. I will say your photos do not lie, those spikes and end caps are far from plumb vertical and anyone who denies that is nuts... Lew
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • delkaldelkal Posts: 345
    With a spike design like that you have to exactly adjust each rack so there is perfect contact on all posts. With four posts this can be an exercise in futility.

    When I was trying to level my non spiked rack it was almost impossible to do on a hard wood floor (depending on how anal you are). Its easy to get it to within a millimeter, then the fun starts. I had my girlfriend push down on each corner and I checked the fit by sliding a piece of paper under the opposite post. When it was off I would turn everything upside down and adjust.......then keep repeating, adjusting one post would always screw up the post next to it. It didn't take long to realized home floors are not perfectly level. I could move the rack a few inches and it wasn't level again.

    After about 30 min I eventually got it so you couldn't slide a piece of paper under any of the foot pads. But even then not the whole pad, just about 1/4 were touching (the pads are not perfectly square either).

    I eventually quit and figured the small gaps would fill in with dust / dirt/ and fuzzy stuff. Who new racks have a burn in time too!
  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 6,657
    Just checked mine, they seem very stable there is no rocking motion
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • verbverb Posts: 3,992
    Viking64 wrote: »
    From what I can see, there seems to be a combination of 2 or 3 issues, any or all of which are contributing to the alignment issues. If the spikes can't screw down flush to the caps, that will create one issue. If the caps aren't seated correctly, that will create another issue and/or add to the first issue. Also, based on some of the images, it seems like the frame has some kind of warping/torquing issue.

    Have you tried rotating the frame 180 degrees to see if that changes anything? If the frame isn't square, that certainly should have some impact.

    Agree with @Viking64 - Based on the pics submitted earlier, each piece seems to have some element of mis-alignment. Either the spikes were crooked, or the legs, or both, etc. As you stack them on top of each other, the mis-alignment is additive from bottom to top. In my world, we call that a geometric tolerance stack up.

    The issue is exacerbated by the mass of each component. Especially at the top. Any tall building will have some amount of deflection (swaying back and forth) just due to the weight, especially at the top floors.

    Without re-working each piece, as we discussed earlier, straightening out the legs, spikes, removing material to allow the threaded spikes to be fully seated, you may never get it corrected.

    If you were closer to me we'd get that thing in the garage and fix it up!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Preamplifier, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Project BoxE, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,582
    Might try taking it apart and reassembling. When you reassemble try putting each section on a flat, level surface and aligning it so it's true. You could also fill the tubes with shot, rice, dried sand, etc.

    I bought coated shot to use for the Ushers and some speaker stands.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 6,657
    Send it back

    Now you know, it ain’t easy to find a good rack these days
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,950
    This is the wobble/oscillation I'm talking about. I'm lightly pushing on the column.

  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 6,657
    Yeah that’s a wobble alright
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 10,236
    Clipdat wrote: »
    I thought the point of an audio rack was to reduce vibration.

    Actually, it’s purpose is to hold the gear. :).

    Vibration is a major issue in higher end, revealing systems, and a good rack should absorb vibrations, and keep it from the gear. However, that is easier said than done, as you are finding out. Good luck.

    Sometimes stuff happens. When I was putting together my Mapleshade rack some of the ‘nuts’ that go on the steel legs to support the shelves were improperly threaded, and wouldn’t go on. They sent out replacements, and all is well, but it still was an irritant at the time.

    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin S1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,950
    Emphasis on "audio" rack, versus just a regular piece of furniture or shelving. An "audio" rack should have a design goal to reduce vibration.

    That's what I meant.
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Actually, it’s purpose is to hold the gear. :).

  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 6,657
    Maybe it's time to return
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,950
    I couldn't find any terms and conditions on their site in regards to returns, but on another site that sells their stuff (standsandmounts.com) their terms mention no returns on opened/assembled products - exchanges only.

    So, don't think a "return" is an option at this point. Also neither me, nor VTI is going to want to foot the bill for return shipping, that's for sure.
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Maybe it's time to return

  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,582
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • verbverb Posts: 3,992
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.

    Agree.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Preamplifier, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Project BoxE, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 10,236
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.

    Yes. LOL

    I was so happy with my Mapleshade rack for the stereo, I bought a five shelf, single width, rack for the HT. Spent an hour or more assembling it, and it looked wrong, and it was wrong. Tilted to the right, and wobbly. Disassembled it and then slowly put it back together. The problem was the steel poles for the shelves screw into brass footers. If they all aren’t screwed into the same depth then you get a FUBAR rack.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin S1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,582
    BlueFox wrote: »
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.

    Yes. LOL

    I was so happy with my Mapleshade rack for the stereo, I bought a five shelf, single width, rack for the HT. Spent an hour or more assembling it, and it looked wrong, and it was wrong. Tilted to the right, and wobbly. Disassembled it and then slowly put it back together. The problem was the steel poles for the shelves screw into brass footers. If they all aren’t screwed into the same depth then you get a FUBAR rack.

    I love the utilitarian, beefy look of the Mapleshade rack.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 6,657
    When I buy a rack I’m going to do my best to buy a Grand Prix Audio Monaco. When I grow up.
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,618
    When you grow up Joey you want an Adona rack. I'll argue there is none better and I've got nothing in the game.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,618
    Clipdat wrote: »
    This is the wobble/oscillation I'm talking about. I'm lightly pushing on the column.


    Sledge hammer, video posted on YouTube. Buy an Adona.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,950
    edited March 4
    Kerry, there's literally nothing to "disassemble". It's just **** frames that sit on top of other **** frames. Nothing was "square and true" as it arrived from the factory. How am I supposed to make it "square and true" short of starting over from where it was flawed initially which is the factory worker welding them on the jig?

    It's not going to magically stop wobbling and oscillating rapidly if I adjust the frames a few millimeters. It's an inherently flawed design and it's a piece of ****. Filling the tiny section of tubes isn't going to do jack **** to add any "rigidity" to it.

    Sorry for the rant, but I'm beyond pissed off about this.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.

  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,582
    The end caps screw on and off, so, I'd start by taking them off and checking threads to verify that none are cross threaded. Then, after doing that, I'd set each section down on something flat and level, and check the piece for trueness. If its true I'd fill it with shot. I'd do the same for each section. If there is one that's not right I would find out where it's out and gently persuade it back to true, fill it with shot and put it back together.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,950
    edited March 4
    The end caps don't screw on and off, they are press fit and/or glued. The only thing with threads that screws on or off are the spikes.

    Verifying that each section is true, flat, and level would not help align the rack. This is due to the spikes and cups being off as described in earlier posts on this thread. What I actually had to do to get each spike and cap to line up is align each frame section to it's adjacent frame.

    It already required several hours of bending/persuasion of the frame pieces, in order to get it how it is now with the spikes actually sitting in their respective cups.

    I appreciate your suggestions, but this thing is beyond any sort of repair at this point. It's a piece of junk that belongs in the garbage.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    The end caps screw on and off, so, I'd start by taking them off and checking threads to verify that none are cross threaded. Then, after doing that, I'd set each section down on something flat and level, and check the piece for trueness. If its true I'd fill it with shot. I'd do the same for each section. If there is one that's not right I would find out where it's out and gently persuade it back to true, fill it with shot and put it back together.

    Post edited by Clipdat on
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,582
    Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,950
    edited March 4
    From their website:

    Q: How to fill sand or metal bits?
    A: Before you screw the spikes on, fill it with sand or metal bits. Screw the spikes on and turn the unit over.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.

    Anyway, why are you getting hung up on a technicality regarding how to fill the little poles with lead shot? That's not going to suddenly save the design and make it so it doesn't wobble excessively with a turntable on the top rack. It's a lost cause.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,582
    Clipdat wrote: »
    From their website:

    Q: How to fill sand or metal bits?
    A: Before you screw the spikes on, fill it with sand or metal bits. Screw the spikes on and turn the unit over.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.

    Anyway, why are you getting hung up on a technicality regarding how to fill the little poles with lead shot? That's not going to suddenly save the design and make it so it doesn't wobble excessively with a turntable on the top rack. It's a lost cause.

    No offense here, but, you're an IT guy with very limited skills in the construction area. That's not me, but, paraphrasing you. I, on the other hand, design and build all levels of electrical and robotic components, and all necessary hardware to install and support, as my career. I'm not hung up on anything except telling you how, exactly, I would go about diagnosing and fixing this problem. This isn't rocket science, and, shot is a universally know product used to aid in deadening. The added weight, along with proper aligning, squaring, and plumbing, would probably make for a very nice, solid rack.

    This is the last I will comment as you appear to have gotten the answer figured out on your own and seem somewhat irritated at, what to some, seems to be a simple task. Peace.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • verbverb Posts: 3,992
    @kharp1 if you're willing I will pay for round trip shipping from @Clipdat to you!

    I would also give it a go but work is killing me right now!

    What d'ya say @kharp1 ?

    See @Clipdat Karma may befall you as well!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Preamplifier, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Project BoxE, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,950
    edited March 5
    Sorry Kerry, but even with your impressive credentials, not even you could polish this.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    No offense here, but, you're an IT guy with very limited skills in the construction area. That's not me, but, paraphrasing you. I, on the other hand, design and build all levels of electrical and robotic components, and all necessary hardware to install and support, as my career. I'm not hung up on anything except telling you how, exactly, I would go about diagnosing and fixing this problem. This isn't rocket science, and, shot is a universally know product used to aid in deadening. The added weight, along with proper aligning, squaring, and plumbing, would probably make for a very nice, solid rack.

    This is the last I will comment as you appear to have gotten the answer figured out on your own and seem somewhat irritated at, what to some, seems to be a simple task. Peace.

    Amusing suggestion, but that would be an epic waste of money.
    verb wrote: »
    @kharp1 if you're willing I will pay for round trip shipping from @Clipdat to you!

    Post edited by KennethSwauger on
  • verbverb Posts: 3,992
    No waste my friend. I’ve reworked welded pieces before. Just need the right tools. The press on end caps will indeed come off. Etc. What do you have to lose?
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Preamplifier, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Project BoxE, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,950
    Might as well just directly Paypal me that $250+ that shipping would cost, so I can put it toward a legit audio rack from a reputable company with proper engineering/design, and made with accuracy and precision.
    verb wrote: »
    No waste my friend. I’ve reworked welded pieces before. Just need the right tools. The press on end caps will indeed come off. Etc. What do you have to lose?

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