What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
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    newbie308 wrote: »
    I let the magic smoke out of my Jolida JD502B. Time for some refurbishing and then it's going up for sale.

    Bummer!
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
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  • Wardsweb
    Wardsweb Posts: 944
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    newbie308 wrote: »
    I let the magic smoke out of my Jolida JD502B. Time for some refurbishing and then it's going up for sale.

    I have run into that on a couple of Jolida pieces. Had a JD1000RC that I had to totally resolder the entire board.

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  • newbie308
    newbie308 Posts: 845
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    I think this unit is from 2001, so the electrolytic capacitors are due for replacement. It is stock with no upgrades or alterations, so I think it will respond well to a tune-up.
    Enjoying the journey while never attaining the destination.
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  • Wardsweb
    Wardsweb Posts: 944
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    Moved the Arte Forma 2A3 into the sunroom. Something special about SET and horns.

    648ebj34ta6a.jpg
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  • Wardsweb
    Wardsweb Posts: 944
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    The Gilmore Raptors moved to the dining room.

    mybkr3v6umlv.jpg
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,520
    edited May 2023
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    @Wardsweb Hey Luther, you still sporting the modded JBL and setup in the living room?
    Loved that sound?

    --Ron
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • Wardsweb
    Wardsweb Posts: 944
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    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    @Wardsweb Hey Luther, you still sporting the modded JBL and setup in the living room?
    Loved that sound?

    --Ron

    My main system and still my fav.

    z9wz310n2rbb.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,879
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    I'll have to try the bean bag mod this weekend. Looking good.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,365
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    Damn. I must be a bass trap then.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • stevep
    stevep Posts: 368
    edited May 2023
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    It's a big old a$$ trap. Once you sit in it you can't gracefully get back up.
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  • jdjohn
    jdjohn Posts: 3,446
    edited June 2023
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    For my Micro Seiki MA-505L tonearm, I got this AST-05 stabilizing nut. The stock nut is on the right...quite a difference.

    nwadngz6cym6.jpg
    These nuts screw onto the bottom of the tonearm pillar, under the arm board. It is clear how much more substantial the AST-05 nut is than stock.

    Similar stabilizing nuts exist for other tonearms. Except for suspended sub-chassis turntable designs, these bigger nuts make a lot of sense. I'm using mine on a Micro Seiki BL-91L turntable, which has a one-piece, solid plinth.
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
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  • xsmi
    xsmi Posts: 1,812
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    So, when I got my turntable and figured out the cue lever was sticky, I watched a video on YouTube about how to fix the problem. The guy on the video took the entire arm apart desoldering the cables from the main board and everything. I immediately decided it was not a job I could do because, if you know about the mockery I made of my SDA-SRS upgrades, you know my soldering skills are pathetic.

    Anyway, last week as I was watching other videos on YouTube, that video came on again, and there was a throw away line in the dialogue where he mentioned that he normally fixes this problem with the tone arm still attached. So, I started looking at mine, contacted Sumiko to get a new cue arm, and in 10 mins, I had it fixed and readjusted.
    2-channel Yaqin B2-T Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Denon DP-59L Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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  • jdjohn
    jdjohn Posts: 3,446
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    I believe Jelco made tonearms for Sumiko. You can normally remove the cue platform, and then the piston itself without dismantling the entire arm. It's typically a matter of stripping and replacing the very thick silicon oil, although getting the correct weight of oil can be a challenge...trial and error.
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
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  • xsmi
    xsmi Posts: 1,812
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    That’s what I did.
    2-channel Yaqin B2-T Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Denon DP-59L Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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  • newbie308
    newbie308 Posts: 845
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    jdjohn wrote: »
    I believe Jelco made tonearms for Sumiko. You can normally remove the cue platform, and then the piston itself without dismantling the entire arm. It's typically a matter of stripping and replacing the very thick silicon oil, although getting the correct weight of oil can be a challenge...trial and error.

    5c6t7nbbo9se.jpg

    I ordered this through Amazon and it worked great for my SME3009 cueing piston.
    Enjoying the journey while never attaining the destination.
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  • Braddles63
    Braddles63 Posts: 191
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    Added a new Eversolo Streamer....

    jqp73siepad5.jpeg
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  • gidrah
    gidrah Posts: 3,050
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    I recently shipped an ADS C2000 crossover out for repair and it came back last week. I took the Dunlavy SC-IIIs out of service and put the ADS L1530s back in. I'm currently bi-amping them with a 200wpc Soundstream SS amp on the bottoms and a 60 wpc VTA ST-120 tube amp on the mids and highs.
    Make it Funky! :)
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  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,102
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    Today I moved my gear from between the speakers,to the left wall next to my listening chair. I’ve been wanting to do this for,well, a very long time. I always felt my system threw a great soundstage, but this absolutely took it to he next level. Voices now truly sound like the vocalist is literally standing right in front of me. I knew from all the reading I have done over the years,that moving the gear out of there would make a difference. I’m shocked at how much it matters. The best 2 hours I’ve ever spent.
    pov4hctduwor.jpeg
    coe00mbkt0j2.jpeg
    See my profile for list of gear.
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  • maxward
    maxward Posts: 1,743
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    Good move! It’s worth the extra length of interconnects or speaker cables.
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  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,102
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    maxward wrote: »
    Good move! It’s worth the extra length of interconnects or speaker cables.

    Longer interconnects in this case. I will eventually replace the old Wireworld cables I’m currently using.
    See my profile for list of gear.
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,365
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    Upgrade time, if you can wing it. It's a buyer's market right now, so make the most of it.

    That said, speaker placement is extremely underrated.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
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    TEAforONE wrote: »
    maxward wrote: »
    Good move! It’s worth the extra length of interconnects or speaker cables.

    Longer interconnects in this case. I will eventually replace the old Wireworld cables I’m currently using.

    Soundstaging was the one thing I felt Wireworld cables upgraded, and in no small way.

    What version do you currently have?
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
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  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,102
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    jbreezy5 wrote: »
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    maxward wrote: »
    Good move! It’s worth the extra length of interconnects or speaker cables.

    Longer interconnects in this case. I will eventually replace the old Wireworld cables I’m currently using.

    Soundstaging was the one thing I felt Wireworld cables upgraded, and in no small way.

    What version do you currently have?

    I picked these up off of flea bay a couple years back. Audio Vision, according to my purchase history. I’m sure they aren’t the final word in detail,but they suffice for the time being. They are 6 meters,and pick up no interference. I’ve had much shorter cables pick up radio stations.
    See my profile for list of gear.
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  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
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    TEAforONE wrote: »
    jbreezy5 wrote: »
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    maxward wrote: »
    Good move! It’s worth the extra length of interconnects or speaker cables.

    Longer interconnects in this case. I will eventually replace the old Wireworld cables I’m currently using.

    Soundstaging was the one thing I felt Wireworld cables upgraded, and in no small way.

    What version do you currently have?

    I picked these up off of flea bay a couple years back. Audio Vision, according to my purchase history. I’m sure they aren’t the final word in detail,but they suffice for the time being. They are 6 meters,and pick up no interference. I’ve had much shorter cables pick up radio stations.

    I know @erniejade had higher end Wireworld cables than the ones I tried (Oasis 8). Going from memory, I believe he opined that Equinox is where they start to get good. That was too rich for my blood for wire.
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
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  • Wardsweb
    Wardsweb Posts: 944
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    New PSVANE Reference 845T tubes for my Antique Sound Labs mono blocks.

    udirx5uigvza.jpg
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,365
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    You get those when you stopped by Josh's the other day?

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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