Billet RD-0194/8 tweeter plate design.

1246

Comments

  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    edited August 2020
    Wow.....Thanks for the Comparison Pic. I intentionally left the billet extrusion texture on the back side as it seems to grab the PVA foam I used,as it is less "spongy" than armacell even. The design goal was to take full advantage of the cabinet's sealing surface.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    edited August 2020
    I just read your post on Sound Recluse's thread. Not sure how you insulated your coil leads.
    The idea is to have as thin as possible insulator like common electrical tape, or "liquid elec. tape" as Pittdogg Suggested. This ensures the entire mating surfaces of the coil frame, magnet, and billet bezel are all evenly seated when magnet screws are snugged down.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,272
    After further pondering this afternoon I thought of another that maybe could also work.

    What about that "Flex Seal" stuff?
    It's supposed to be some sort of rubberized material. I've personally never used any of it.

    I don't know if somehow the chemical make up of the paint on stuff may have a reaction with the copper.
  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 1,596
    xschop wrote: »
    I just read your post on Sound Recluse's thread. Not sure how you insulated your coil leads.
    The idea is to have as thin as possible insulator like common electrical tape, or "liquid elec. tape" as Pittdogg Suggested. This ensures the entire mating surfaces of the coil frame, magnet, and billet bezel are all evenly seated when magnet screws are snugged down.

    I tried some building "flashing tape" at first but it was a pain to cut and peel those tiny pieces. That stuff is very sticky and squishy and works very well once it's in place. It's not cheap at $60 a roll and thankfully I have some left over from a siding job. I really didn't notice any difference tightening the magnet screws with the gorilla tape but it was a lot easier to cut and put into place. I also cleaned the back of the plates first with brake cleaner to remove any possible contaminants.
  • BlueBirdMusicBlueBirdMusic Registered User Posts: 1,496
    Guys, Those look fantastic!!!!

    Harry (was a perfectionist in early years)
    If the telephone doesn't ring ......... it's me
    Harry / Marietta Georgia
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    Listening to my 5Bs doing some other stuff in garage. I started looking at the set of SL2000 magnets. I'll see what jig I can make to copy the bolt pattern of their magnets so the end user can convert his SL-2000s to silk domes using these plates.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    edited August 2020
    Besides the PCD of magnet holes being a couple mm's wider, the SL-2000's have 0.100" more wider magnet inteface/centering at the bezel than RD0's


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  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,843
    Thanks Polk
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
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  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    Anyone who's placed an order, I'm shipping today. The holiday weekend threw my schedule off.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    Have you considered doing a similar design for the SL1000? The RD-0194 is the replacement for it, however the SL1000 faceplate is substantially smaller.

    How thick is the SL1000 plate?
    I left a set of RDO plates without magnet countersinks and will see what can be done to adapt a set. I have the length and widths and corner radii written down.
  • xschop wrote: »
    Have you considered doing a similar design for the SL1000? The RD-0194 is the replacement for it, however the SL1000 faceplate is substantially smaller.

    How thick is the SL1000 plate?
    I left a set of RDO plates without magnet countersinks and will see what can be done to adapt a set. I have the length and widths and corner radii written down.

    Unfortunately, I don't have any SL1000s anymore
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Tony MTony M Posts: 9,837
    Those DO look great!

    I think a silver cross-over plate would take the look to the max. ;)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    I'm not sure how the little handles fit on there, but that flat plate could be stripped and brushed easily to match. Glad you're happy.
  • ptrooperptrooper Posts: 460
    There two screws for each handle from the inside of the plate !
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    ptrooper wrote: »
    There two screws for each handle from the inside of the plate !

    Then chem-stripping and brushing to match would be easy.
  • Toolfan66Toolfan66 Posts: 14,665
    Will you be making any more?
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 23,238
    I am curious if any improvements in sound have been made with these.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    “Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell

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  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    In My monitor 5B's, not a single peep from the 194 diaphragms (It would resonate quite often in the plastic housings).

    Indeed the cabinet sealing has improved on mine as well.
    And with simple hurricane nuts, the monocoque design renders the cabinet area much stiffer also. You can crank down the cabinet mount screws with ZERO deformation.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Will you be making any more?

    As market forces dictate. If you didnt get in on the current run, you may in 3-4 weeks.
    Like any custom parts I've made over the years, they can take a back seat to oilfield parts that take precedence. $1200 part vs a $45 part is an economic no-brainer where I'm from.
  • JayCeeJayCee Posts: 1,083
    @xschop, I'll take 8 for my 1.2tl's if/when you make another run.
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streamer: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC & Uptone EtherREGEN⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    JayCee wrote: »
    @xschop, I'll take 8 for my 1.2tl's if/when you make another run.

    Got you down for a set JayCee.
    Care to take a couple of measurements of the Passives for me?
  • JayCeeJayCee Posts: 1,083
    Sure, what do you need?
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streamer: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC & Uptone EtherREGEN⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • gmcmangmcman Posts: 1,612
    Excellent work!


    Do you have the ability to anodize them? I do like the beautiful machine work, but would likely anodize them black.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    JayCee wrote: »
    Sure, what do you need?

    The inner thru-hole on the cabinet itself (RED)
    The outer in-step (BLUE)

    and ON THE PASSIVE itself, the exact center-to-center of the mount holes.


    8ltdvxd8z5fr.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    gmcman wrote: »
    Excellent work!


    Do you have the ability to anodize them? I do like the beautiful machine work, but would likely anodize them black.

    Yes I do. One member will be doing black. I know they'll be stunning. If I do a set, they'll be red and I'll anodize the MW phase-plug to match for my last set of Jr's that I have good cabinets for.
  • ptrooperptrooper Posts: 460
    Hey Rob. You going to make reference rings for the x over plate ?
    I know the tweeters will be solid as ❤️
  • xschopxschop Posts: 2,071
    edited October 2020
    Take good measurement or send me an X-over plate and take pictures inside the cabinets to ensure there are no MDF supports in the way. I'll build them.

    The X-over plate looks like it could double in thickness itself and simply use hurricane nuts for even more rigidity in that area.
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