I moved them out to garage to continue playing and burning in caps. Mids are sounding so accurate and blending with the tweets much better than first few hours of play. Still haven't decided cabinet treatment yet lol.
My plates arrived today and I've got one speaker done already. The attention to detail is excellent and I love the new look. I haven't had enough time with them yet to notice if there's a sound difference or not. But one thing I did notice is it takes about a second longer for the passive to come out compared to the plastic plates. I'm thinking this means a tighter air seal than the old plastic plates. Very well done sir; thank you
Wow.....Thanks for the Comparison Pic. I intentionally left the billet extrusion texture on the back side as it seems to grab the PVA foam I used,as it is less "spongy" than armacell even. The design goal was to take full advantage of the cabinet's sealing surface.
I just read your post on Sound Recluse's thread. Not sure how you insulated your coil leads.
The idea is to have as thin as possible insulator like common electrical tape, or "liquid elec. tape" as Pittdogg Suggested. This ensures the entire mating surfaces of the coil frame, magnet, and billet bezel are all evenly seated when magnet screws are snugged down.
I just read your post on Sound Recluse's thread. Not sure how you insulated your coil leads.
The idea is to have as thin as possible insulator like common electrical tape, or "liquid elec. tape" as Pittdogg Suggested. This ensures the entire mating surfaces of the coil frame, magnet, and billet bezel are all evenly seated when magnet screws are snugged down.
I tried some building "flashing tape" at first but it was a pain to cut and peel those tiny pieces. That stuff is very sticky and squishy and works very well once it's in place. It's not cheap at $60 a roll and thankfully I have some left over from a siding job. I really didn't notice any difference tightening the magnet screws with the gorilla tape but it was a lot easier to cut and put into place. I also cleaned the back of the plates first with brake cleaner to remove any possible contaminants.
Listening to my 5Bs doing some other stuff in garage. I started looking at the set of SL2000 magnets. I'll see what jig I can make to copy the bolt pattern of their magnets so the end user can convert his SL-2000s to silk domes using these plates.
Have you considered doing a similar design for the SL1000? The RD-0194 is the replacement for it, however the SL1000 faceplate is substantially smaller.
How thick is the SL1000 plate?
I left a set of RDO plates without magnet countersinks and will see what can be done to adapt a set. I have the length and widths and corner radii written down.
Have you considered doing a similar design for the SL1000? The RD-0194 is the replacement for it, however the SL1000 faceplate is substantially smaller.
How thick is the SL1000 plate?
I left a set of RDO plates without magnet countersinks and will see what can be done to adapt a set. I have the length and widths and corner radii written down.
I am curious if any improvements in sound have been made with these.
The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.
“Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell
“If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
In My monitor 5B's, not a single peep from the 194 diaphragms (It would resonate quite often in the plastic housings).
Indeed the cabinet sealing has improved on mine as well.
And with simple hurricane nuts, the monocoque design renders the cabinet area much stiffer also. You can crank down the cabinet mount screws with ZERO deformation.
As market forces dictate. If you didnt get in on the current run, you may in 3-4 weeks.
Like any custom parts I've made over the years, they can take a back seat to oilfield parts that take precedence. $1200 part vs a $45 part is an economic no-brainer where I'm from.
Do you have the ability to anodize them? I do like the beautiful machine work, but would likely anodize them black.
Yes I do. One member will be doing black. I know they'll be stunning. If I do a set, they'll be red and I'll anodize the MW phase-plug to match for my last set of Jr's that I have good cabinets for.
Take good measurement or send me an X-over plate and take pictures inside the cabinets to ensure there are no MDF supports in the way. I'll build them.
The X-over plate looks like it could double in thickness itself and simply use hurricane nuts for even more rigidity in that area.
Comments
The idea is to have as thin as possible insulator like common electrical tape, or "liquid elec. tape" as Pittdogg Suggested. This ensures the entire mating surfaces of the coil frame, magnet, and billet bezel are all evenly seated when magnet screws are snugged down.
What about that "Flex Seal" stuff?
It's supposed to be some sort of rubberized material. I've personally never used any of it.
I don't know if somehow the chemical make up of the paint on stuff may have a reaction with the copper.
I tried some building "flashing tape" at first but it was a pain to cut and peel those tiny pieces. That stuff is very sticky and squishy and works very well once it's in place. It's not cheap at $60 a roll and thankfully I have some left over from a siding job. I really didn't notice any difference tightening the magnet screws with the gorilla tape but it was a lot easier to cut and put into place. I also cleaned the back of the plates first with brake cleaner to remove any possible contaminants.
Harry (was a perfectionist in early years)
Harry / Marietta Georgia
Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
How thick is the SL1000 plate?
I left a set of RDO plates without magnet countersinks and will see what can be done to adapt a set. I have the length and widths and corner radii written down.
Unfortunately, I don't have any SL1000s anymore
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
Beautiful work!
I think a silver cross-over plate would take the look to the max.
Then chem-stripping and brushing to match would be easy.
“Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell
“If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
Indeed the cabinet sealing has improved on mine as well.
And with simple hurricane nuts, the monocoque design renders the cabinet area much stiffer also. You can crank down the cabinet mount screws with ZERO deformation.
As market forces dictate. If you didnt get in on the current run, you may in 3-4 weeks.
Like any custom parts I've made over the years, they can take a back seat to oilfield parts that take precedence. $1200 part vs a $45 part is an economic no-brainer where I'm from.
Got you down for a set JayCee.
Care to take a couple of measurements of the Passives for me?
Do you have the ability to anodize them? I do like the beautiful machine work, but would likely anodize them black.
The inner thru-hole on the cabinet itself (RED)
The outer in-step (BLUE)
and ON THE PASSIVE itself, the exact center-to-center of the mount holes.
Yes I do. One member will be doing black. I know they'll be stunning. If I do a set, they'll be red and I'll anodize the MW phase-plug to match for my last set of Jr's that I have good cabinets for.
I know the tweeters will be solid as ❤️
The X-over plate looks like it could double in thickness itself and simply use hurricane nuts for even more rigidity in that area.