To Spike or Not Spike 1.2 TL's

BIZILL

don't worry, a few others of us have misread the same thing. that's what first prompted me to say hey, funk that, i'll make my own. either way i still saved about $80 i didn't have at the moment anyhow. yay me!

BIZILL

nspindel wrote: »

Wow, I don't suppose you could whip up eight more of those????

actually, i'll see if i can coax the dude to make more. i mean really, who could turn down cash???

leroyjr1

Can't you just buy replacement spikes from Polk? I'm using my RTI series speakers spikes and they work great in my 2.3tl's. Nothing fancy like brass or SS but the all black gets the job done.

SpeedyFE

Is there any input on how much the speakers should be off the ground?

Should the bottom of the speaker still graze the carpet, or be 1", 0.5" or ?_?off the ground? I am assuming it doesn't really matter, but I thought I would ask

F1nut

As long as the base is not into the carpet it doesn't matter.

thsmith

I still have a couple sets of 8 T-nuts 1/4-20 if anyone needs them.

fbm211

Me please, I think its time to spike the 2Bs.

nspindel

Wow, I'm too slow. I was going to take those, my spikes are already on the way! No worries, they're cheap enough on partsexpress. Only question is what to do with the other 42 of them!

thsmith

fbm211 wrote: »

Me please, I think its time to spike the 2Bs.

nspindel wrote: »

Wow, I'm too slow. I was going to take those, my spikes are already on the way! No worries, they're cheap enough on partsexpress. Only question is what to do with the other 42 of them!

Shoot my your addresses. Just came back from the PO from mailing a set out. It will be next week some time before I can get yours out.

nspindel

Ah, I read too fast, missed you saying you had more than one set. Awesome! I'll pm you. Muchos gracias!

thsmith

OK, Nspindel, Leroyjr1 and FBM211 I will get you each 8 pieces out next week.

I think that is all I have available until I get my done which after that I may have one more set depending on if I screw any of mine up.

I will post here if I have any extras. I am hoping my myespikes come today.

nspindel

Thanks!

leroyjr1

Thanks

hearingimpared

Nice job Terry.:)

BIZILL

maybe this thread will convince me to once again spike my hair too.:cool:

fbm211

Thanks

thsmith

Guess what came today ?:D

F1nut, When I put the T-nuts in the cabinets it looks like the spike threads will be exposed some. Spikes will not be screwed in such that spike will be bottomed out againest the T-nut? Second picture for example.

I know I am probably over thinking it but want to get it right.

BTW Goerge, your t-nuts where put in the mail today.

leroyjr1

Thsmith

What are those flat bottom pieces below on the picture?

thsmith

leroyjr1 wrote: »

Thsmith

What are those flat bottom pieces below on the picture?

Those are pads for the spikes to sit in since I have HW floors. They have felt on the bottom.

thsmith

FInut, one more question, I assume I would want to remove the MWs since there will be a bit of pounding getting the T-nuts installed ?

Emlyn

I don't use the Mye brand, but use Starsound Audio Points instead. They recommend **** the thread all the way in to couple the spike to the speaker cabinet as much as possible. They say something about draining vibrational energy to the point better that way. If that's not possible, brass washers could be used in between.

F1nut

thsmith wrote: »

FInut, one more question, I assume I would want to remove the MWs since there will be a bit of pounding getting the T-nuts installed ?

There's no need for that, there's no way you're going to damage the drivers. Tap once with a hammer to set and drive them in with your second stroke, piece of cake.

F1nut

thsmith wrote: »

F1nut, When I put the T-nuts in the cabinets it looks like the spike threads will be exposed some. Spikes will not be screwed in such that spike will be bottomed out againest the T-nut? Second picture for example.

I know I am probably over thinking it but want to get it right.

Good point.....one that I forgot about. I cut off some of the brass thread with a hacksaw to solve that issue.

thsmith

OK, I have spiked one speaker and one more to go.I now have 1 extra set of T-nuts.

Whoever post here claming them can have them.

I will send Nspindel, Leroyjr1, FBM211 and yet to be named 9 T-nuts so you will have one extra to experiment or what ever with.

I will post pictures later but the 1Cs look sweet sitting on spikes and pads.

I measured 1" from the top and side of each corner for drilling. Bought a new Dewalt 5/16" bit from HomeDepot part number DW1386 and measured 7/8 from the flat part of the flute and wrapped masking tape around the bit so as to have a stop point (this drill bit has a pilot point 1/16" which left 1/16' before going through the base). I inspected each hole to make sure I had not drilled all the way through. I did not have to cut any of the spike threads off and they screwed into the T-nut completely. I first experiemnted with a test piece of wood and worked perfectly. I used some liquid soap on the threads of the spike to make installation easier into the T-nuts.

I placed the speaker on its back supported by heavy pillows to absorb some of the shock from hammering in the T-nuts.

thsmith

pics and completed. Now to listen

BIZILL

Lasareath wrote: »

WOW BIZILL!!!

Those Are Hot!!!

I Love Stainless Steel.

I wish I had access to a machine shop

my guy said he'd go ahead and risk doing "outside" work for $60 shipped. (hope the bosses don't frequent the forum. lol.)

you know, i hadn't considered those who have to drill their own holes to insert t-nuts. i'd guess if you drilled through the bottom board you'd create yourself a means by which air can escape. i did not look when i removed my factory feet on my 1.2tl's, but are their t-nuts sealed or do they sit inside the cabinet in any way? i'm too lazy to mess with mine again.

what i do know is that my spikes i had made screw all the way up and top out without issue. no need to cut any threads off. but to level the speaker i obviously had to screw some out so they are not butting up against the t-nut, which is NOT a problem. but i did think about adding a nut to the threads to keep 'em locked down. but i may not need to as i doubt they'll wiggle themselves out. i've played some heavy bass-laden music (techmaster P.E.B.) on them and nothing has budged thus far. i had my roof shaking and possibly my neighbors' roofs as well.

george daniel

Damn nice pair of 1C's,, nice job,, notice any difference after spiking?

leroyjr1

Very nice

thsmith

Thanks Goerge. What I clearly notice is tight punchy bass on both CDs and Albums.

Very pleased with the outcome. Spikes have definately taken the 1Cs to another level.

Well worth the time and money !

thsmith

F1nut wrote: »

Spike those suckers. I recommend Mye Sound spikes, none better.

Thank you F1nut for your help and patience !;)