To Spike or Not Spike 1.2 TL's

hearingimpared

Great stuff Terry!

thsmith

Thanks hearing. I love this place, My audio listing experience has improved damatically due to many people here like yourself. Your advise on the record clamp was spot on.

Not to be picky but it's Tracy:) but I have been called worse.

Just in case anyone missed it I still have an extra set of T-nuts 1/4 20 if someone needs a set of 9.

F1nut

Tracy, I'm glad you're pleased with the outcome. I knew you would be.

nspindel

I haven't done mine yet, but I would imagine that it's quite painful to get the spikes flush to the bottom of the speaker. In that case, how are you supposed to level the cabinet? Understood you can add several layers of washers in between, but that would mean you would first need to level the cabinet, then estimate how many washers each spike needs, then remove the spikes, add the washers, and hope it's all level again and tight with the floor when you're done. Seems like quite a painful process....

thsmith

The method I used allowed the spikes to tighten flush with T-nuts.

dbnh

Any opinions / suggestions on similarly spiking studio 1Cs? I note they lack the oak bottoms and wonder if that may be problematic in applying spikes. In advance, thanks for all replies.

hearingimpared

thsmith wrote: »

Not to be picky but it's Tracy:) but I have been called worse.

Don't mind me Tracy I've been a bit tardy lately!:eek::D

nspindel

thsmith wrote: »

The method I used allowed the spikes to tighten flush with T-nuts.

So how were you able to level the speakers?

thsmith

dbnh wrote: »

Any opinions / suggestions on similarly spiking studio 1Cs? I note they lack the oak bottoms and wonder if that may be problematic in applying spikes. In advance, thanks for all replies.

I would imagine it is the same as the oaks provided the MDF on the bottom is 1" thick.

nspindel wrote: »

So how were you able to level the speakers?

Never thought to check, I just screwed them in until they bottomed out againest the T-nuts but I did just check and they are perfectly level front to back and side to side.

No rocking in any direction.

nspindel

That means your floor is level. You're lucky. I'm not confident that I will have similar luck with my concrete slab in the basement.

BIZILL

nspindel wrote: »

That means your floor is level. You're lucky. I'm not confident that I will have similar luck with my concrete slab in the basement.

exactly. my foundation is a joke. i know my spikes are not topped out. one of four is, but the rest needed to be adjusted. but i doubt any foundation would force you to have to use any more than 2 washers MAX. personally, i see no need to do the washers or a nut. if you're anal and must do this, i say forget the washer and go with a nut. you can screw/unscrew the spikes till all four tips find foundation. if there is a nut, just keep it loose and get it level and there should be enough room to get in there with the speaker erect for an open end wrench and torque her down.

with MY speakers, i find the weight alone is good enough. solid as a rock. there's enough thread against thread to unnecessatate (is that a word?) topping out of the spike. and yes, thsmith has a nice level floor prolly because it was made sure of when the hardwood flooring was put down.

hearingimpared

BIZILL wrote: »

with MY speakers, i find the weight alone is good enough. solid as a rock. there's enough thread against thread to unnecessatate (is that a word?) topping out of the spike. and yes, thsmith has a nice level floor prolly because it was made sure of when the hardwood flooring was put down.

You are correct Sir!

SpeedyFE

Anyone spike a pair of SRS speakers? Would you use the same ones you guys are getting for the 1Cs?

BIZILL

SpeedyFE wrote: »

Anyone spike a pair of SRS speakers? Would you use the same ones you guys are getting for the 1Cs?

original poster's sda's as well as my own...

leroyjr1

Anyone looking to spike there SDA's on a budget. I used my spikes from my RTI A series speakers on my 2.3tl's with great results. Called Polk CS today to price the spikes and they cost $8.50 ( 8 spikes ) shipped for Polk Forum members.

BIZILL

plastic, aren't they? wouldn't it be better to just use a 1/4-20 screw and file it down to a point? also, there are other options out there cheaper than the myespikes deals.

leroyjr1

BIZILL wrote: »

plastic, aren't they? wouldn't it be better to just use a 1/4-20 screw and file it down to a point? also, there are other options out there cheaper than the myespikes deals.

Plastic???? No they're metal and painted black.

analog97

Gents,

I would love to spike my 1.2 TL's, but it ain't gonna happen. I have a spiked Paradigm Ref Servo-15 subwoofer (maybe 125lbs?). It is an absolute **** to move that on carpet and I extrapolate that PIA to moving a 1.2......OUCH!! One of these days, I'm gonna show up at Joe's place and listen to his spiked 1.2 TL wonders and maybe that will sway me...:)

BIZILL

leroyjr1 wrote: »

Plastic???? No they're metal and painted black.

wonderful. my rti's are plastic.

hearingimpared

analog97 wrote: »

Gents,

I would love to spike my 1.2 TL's, but it ain't gonna happen. I have a spiked Paradigm Ref Servo-15 subwoofer (maybe 125lbs?). It is an absolute **** to move that on carpet and I extrapolate that PIA to moving a 1.2......OUCH!! One of these days, I'm gonna show up at Joe's place and listen to his spiked 1.2 TL wonders and maybe that will sway me...:)

When I need to move my 1.2TLs I carefully walk them . . . it's really not that hard.

You are always welcome Larry.:)

BIZILL

analog97 wrote: »

Gents,

I would love to spike my 1.2 TL's, but it ain't gonna happen. I have a spiked Paradigm Ref Servo-15 subwoofer (maybe 125lbs?). It is an absolute **** to move that on carpet and I extrapolate that PIA to moving a 1.2......OUCH!! One of these days, I'm gonna show up at Joe's place and listen to his spiked 1.2 TL wonders and maybe that will sway me...:)

no kidding. once i stood mine up by myself with no help, it had moved from its original location by about 2 inches and it took ALL my might to 'walk' it back, centimeter by centimeter.

hearingimpared wrote: »

When I need to move my 1.2TLs I carefully walk them . . . it's really not that hard.

You are always welcome Larry.:)

with my carpet, mine are.

hearingimpared

You need to pivot them on one spike, turn it and pivot on another spike. It really is easy. I guess I've done it so many times that I'm used to doing it without any problems.

BIZILL

hearingimpared wrote: »

You need to pivot them on one spike, turn it and pivot on another spike. It really is easy. I guess I've done it so many times that I'm used to doing it without any problems.

eh, i was afraid of all that weight on one pivot, though mine are tougher than most being that they're stainless steel. i was "pivotting" on TWO. lol.

thsmith

leroyjr1 wrote: »

Anyone looking to spike there SDA's on a budget. I used my spikes from my RTI A series speakers on my 2.3tl's with great results. Called Polk CS today to price the spikes and they cost $8.50 ( 8 spikes ) shipped for Polk Forum members.

Leroyjr1, do you still need to the T-nuts ? There were mailed out Monday.

George, you should be receiving your anytime now since they left Saturday morning at the PO.

I had spikes on myt RTi8s to replace the factory plastic ones from Polk but they were a small spike with rubber bushing, the rubber could be removed leaving a rather small spike.

I know money is tight but the myespikes made such an improvement in my speakers I would save up for them if I had a tighter budget knowing what I know now.

leroyjr1

thsmith wrote: »

Leroyjr1, do you still need to the T-nuts ? There were mailed out Monday.

George, you should be receiving your anytime now since they left Saturday morning at the PO.

I had spikes on myt RTi8s to replace the factory plastic ones from Polk but they were a small spike with rubber bushing, the rubber could be removed leaving a rather small spike.

I know money is tight but the myespikes made such an improvement in my speakers I would save up for them if I had a tighter budget knowing what I know now.

Yes I still need the T-NUTS for my other 2.3's Thanks

leroyjr1

A couple pics nothing fancy.




There's about a 1/4" gap between the carpet and the bottom of the speaker.





All for about $12 total and it's very sturdy, no more rocking

nspindel

thsmith wrote: »

Leroyjr1, do you still need to the T-nuts ? There were mailed out Monday.

George, you should be receiving your anytime now since they left Saturday morning at the PO.

thsmith, just want to check that you mailed a set to me? I got my spikes today from bizill, and they are sweeeeeet!

Reagan

http://www.ttweights.com/catalog/item/6796971/6711997.htm

Has anyone tried Larry Denham's products (see above spikes)?

I use his spikes for my turntable and am very happy. The speakers spikes are a little pricey at 4 bills but I expect the results would be appreciable.

Any experience with these speaker spikes?

I am using some cheapo parts express spikes on my 1.2TL's. Probably not showing much respect.

thsmith

nspindel wrote: »

thsmith, just want to check that you mailed a set to me? I got my spikes today from bizill, and they are sweeeeeet!

SHipped Georges last Saturday and the other 3 sets were at the post office on Monday which was a Holiday so all shipments should have arrived by now.

thsmith

Reagan wrote: »

http://www.ttweights.com/catalog/item/6796971/6711997.htm

Has anyone tried Larry Denham's products (see above spikes)?

I use his spikes for my turntable and am very happy. The speakers spikes are a little pricey at 4 bills but I expect the results would be appreciable.

Any experience with these speaker spikes?

I am using some cheapo parts express spikes on my 1.2TL's. Probably not showing much respect.

Have not tried or heard them. They look huge. I think some of the folks have mentioned that Brass was a better material for this purpose. I like the results of my 1Cs with the mye spikes