To Spike or Not Spike 1.2 TL's
michaeljhsda2
Posts: 2,184
Any improvement/degredation in bass response if I spike my 1.2 TL's? Speakers are sitting on carpet with padding over a concrete basement floor. Thanks for any input.
Mike
Mike
SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's
Post edited by michaeljhsda2 on
Comments
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Spike those suckers. I recommend Mye Sound spikes, none better.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
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Thanks for the link. I was going to be asking this same question for mine.
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Spike those bad boy's!~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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Listen to them on this one. I got the ones from Mye on my 1.2 and it did make a difference on the bass for me. It made them much tighter then just having them on the floor without anything.Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
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Would anyone have recommendations on which Myes for SDA-1Cs on H/W floor. Size, shape and how to mount ?Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
The big pointy ones with the floor protectors. You'll need to order T-nuts (1/4"-20) from somewhere like Parts Express and make sure you order the same thread pattern from Mye Sound.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I asked the question "Any improvement/degredation in bass response if I spike my 1.2 TL's?"
Jesse said "spike those suckers" and others chimed in as well. All I gotta say is
OMG, the bass response has dramatically improved and that's an understatement. If there's a tweak to be done on these speakers this would be it.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks guys.
MikeSDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
Spike them!Sunfire TGP, Sunfire Cinema Grand, Sunfire 300~2 (2), Sunfire True Sub (2),Carver ALS Platinum, Carver AL III, TFM-55, C-19, C-9, TX-8, SDA-490t, SDA-390t
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michaeljhsda2 wrote: »I asked the question "Any improvement/degredation in bass response if I spike my 1.2 TL's?"
Jesse said "spike those suckers" and others chimed in as well. All I gotta say is
OMG, the bass response has dramatically improved and that's an understatement. If there's a tweak to be done on these speakers this would be it.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks guys.
Mike
Excellent!!! -
i never thought about doing this before for some reason. ya'll may have just convinced me. i'm gonna have the foreman in our cnc dept whip me up a set...someday, anyway.
POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
ONKYO TX-SR805
CENTER: CSI5
MAINS: RTI8'S
SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)
XBOX 360WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd
http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.phpbobman1235 wrote:I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments. -
Do it sooner than later B it really does enhance the bass response of your speakers.
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dang, i may just have to plan it this weekend for monday. i assume the brass is used for anti-corrosive properties, yes? seems that brass will be a bit weak at the tip. brass is semi-maleable. obviously i wouldn't create anything that comes to too fine a point.
POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
ONKYO TX-SR805
CENTER: CSI5
MAINS: RTI8'S
SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)
XBOX 360WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd
http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.phpbobman1235 wrote:I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments. -
dang, i may just have to plan it this weekend for monday. i assume the brass is used for anti-corrosive properties, yes? seems that brass will be a bit weak at the tip. brass is semi-maleable. obviously i wouldn't create anything that comes to too fine a point.
Brass is the BEST! -
Oh Hell, These things are as expensive as the speakers itself. I wonder any cheaper alternative you guys could recommend?
Never mind! I was looking at the wrong page for the pricing.
The pricing for the spike products is at
http://www.myesound.com/Points_n_pads.htmlTrying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
Anybody have the lenght and diameter of a spike that would be best. I was thinking 3/4" in diameter and about an inch in length, minus the thread of course. I was also thinking with a 180lb speaker if i should just make them 1" in diameter and 1 1/4" in length.
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Oh Hell, These things are as expensive as the speakers itself. I wonder any cheaper alternative you guys could recommend?
Never mind! I was looking at the wrong page for the pricing.
The pricing for the spike products is at
http://www.myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html
For SDA-1Cs Oaks on H/W would it be best to have the 5/16" or 1/2" spikes?
How would you install the T-nuts without damging the base (oak) if the 1Cs ?
I want to do this but am nervious about drilling or hammering something into the base. I assume I would remove the factory buttons on the base and place the spikes in buttons locations.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
i assume the brass is used for anti-corrosive properties, yes? seems that brass will be a bit weak at the tip. brass is semi-maleable. obviously i wouldn't create anything that comes to too fine a point.
No, it's used for it's damping qualities.
Every spike I've seen, no matter if it's brass or not, has an extremely fine point. The Mye Sound points are ice pick sharp.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
For SDA-1Cs Oaks on H/W would it be best to have the 5/16" or 1/2" spikes?
How would you install the T-nuts without damging the base (oak) if the 1Cs ?
I want to do this but am nervious about drilling or hammering something into the base. I assume I would remove the factory buttons on the base and place the spikes in buttons locations.
Use the 1" daimeter spikes. Yes, you have to drill a hole, but only about 3/4" deep for the T-nuts. The T-nuts I have from Parts Express require a 5/16" drill bit. The buttons are too close to the corners, measure back about 1.5" from the corner to locate your center point.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
No, it's used for it's damping qualities.
Every spike I've seen, no matter if it's brass or not, has an extremely fine point. The Mye Sound points are ice pick sharp.
no doubt? how's 'bout aluminum. the good stuff. 6061 or what not.
POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
ONKYO TX-SR805
CENTER: CSI5
MAINS: RTI8'S
SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)
XBOX 360WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd
http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.phpbobman1235 wrote:I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments. -
no doubt? how's 'bout aluminum. the good stuff. 6061 or what not.
I've used aluminum cones under my gear and found brass to be the better damper. Carbon fiber is even better but I don't recommend putting them under a 180 lb speaker even though I've never tried it, it is just my opinion based on using carbon fiber cones under some of my gear. -
well, i'm hopin' we have some spare brass laying around work. doubtful. otherwise i'll try either steel or aluminum. anything's gotta be better than the factory 1.2tl feet on uneven padded carpet.
POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
ONKYO TX-SR805
CENTER: CSI5
MAINS: RTI8'S
SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)
XBOX 360WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd
http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.phpbobman1235 wrote:I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments. -
Use the 1" daimeter spikes. Yes, you have to drill a hole, but only about 3/4" deep for the T-nuts. The T-nuts I have from Parts Express require a 5/16" drill bit. The buttons are too close to the corners, measure back about 1.5" from the corner to locate your center point.
Thanks, I will look into the 1"s. I may comeback after looking at PE t-nuts for confirmation I am buying the right ones.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
Use the 1" daimeter spikes. Yes, you have to drill a hole, but only about 3/4" deep for the T-nuts. The T-nuts I have from Parts Express require a 5/16" drill bit. The buttons are too close to the corners, measure back about 1.5" from the corner to locate your center point.
F1, I do not find 1" diameters spikes. Here are the ones I was referring too at mye. The second from right is the one I am thinking I need. Are you referring to something different?Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
Guy's, I need to spike my 1C's,, so those of you who are going to do so,,please post here,if you would,as the t nuts come in packs of 50ea IIRC,, so I'll be happy to buy some from ya'll.:)JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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Yes, the second from the right has a 1" daimeter. Tell Grant you want the 1/4"-20 thread pattern on that one.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
my brizoes, you are only mentioning t-nuts for those who don't already have feet on their sda's, correct? OP was started for spiking the 1.2tl's. and the spikes on myespikes or what not oughtta screw right into the old feet female threads, yes?
just clearing up any confusion. if i'm confused, others may be as well. so let's nip this in the bud.
the feet i'm gonna try to have made will be like the second one from the right on that pic as well.
POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
ONKYO TX-SR805
CENTER: CSI5
MAINS: RTI8'S
SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)
XBOX 360WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd
http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.phpbobman1235 wrote:I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments. -
Excellent FI. I will be ordering on Monday. I take it for the t-nuts you drill the hole and hammer into base?
Once I get everything I want to mach up where I plan to install them, take a picture and post here before I commit to drilling.
George, I will buy 50 and shoot you 8, ok?Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
you are only mentioning t-nuts for those who don't already have feet on their sda's
That is correct. All of the SDA's that came with screw in feet/spikes have the T-nuts already installed. The thread pattern is 1/4"-20.I take it for the t-nuts you drill the hole and hammer into base?
Correct. It's very simple.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk