To Spike or Not Spike 1.2 TL's

george daniel

thsmith wrote: »

Excellent FI. I will be ordering on Monday. I take it for the t-nuts you drill the hole and hammer into base?

Once I get everything I want to mach up where I plan to install them, take a picture and post here before I commit to drilling.

George, I will buy 50 and shoot you 8, ok?

Thank you sir,, I'll be happy to renumerate you,, I so love tweaking.

thsmith

george daniel wrote: »

Thank you sir,, I'll be happy to renumerate you,, I so love tweaking.

Ordered them yesterday. Should be able to cover 4 or 5 more sets.

george daniel

which mye did you/are you ordering? Thanks

thsmith

George, I ordered the second from the right. Talked to Grant tonight. He had 9 of the 1/4-20s but now only one.

He was not sure he had any when I called him earlier today, You need to call him as I think he will need to have more made.

Seems like a nice guy.

hearingimpared

Grant is one heck of a guy. He'll bend over backwards to help you out.

george daniel

thsmith wrote: »

George, I ordered the second from the right. Talked to Grant tonight. He had 9 of the 1/4-20s but now only one.

He was not sure he had any when I called him earlier today, You need to call him as I think he will need to have more made.

Seems like a nice guy.

Thanks--I'll call today

Toolfan66

I ordered some 1" round brass today a 2 foot piece to make my own spikes on the lathe. should be just enough to make 16 spikes that way i can do my SDA 2's as well. The 2 foot piece cost me $55. I freaking love this stuff.

Larry.

thsmith

Nothing like making your own. I took 2 years of machine shop in High School but those skills are long gone.

Takes some pics of the finished product and share.

Toolfan66

thsmith wrote: »

Nothing like making your own. I took 2 years of machine shop in High School but those skills are long gone.

Takes some pics of the finished product and share.

I will, I thought i would take some pics of the whole process, I don't get a lot of time on the lathe anymore as i manage the sheetmetal side of the shop,so i will be doing this after hours at work. but it will be fun. I did turn a TT weight some time ago with good results, I still want to make a TT clamp.

schwarcw

Spike them! I recognized a little tighter bass, not dramatic but noticeable. Please note that if you have thick carpeting AND padding, the Mye spike has a larger diameter than the original Polk spikes and may actually be supporting some of the weight on the conical transition section of the spike. Translate: all of the weight may not be on the tip if the needle anchored to the floor. Will it make a difference in sound? In theory maybe, in practice probably not.

Those Mye spike are damn nice quality build for a reasonable price. this is a no brainer if you have concrete, wood or tile floors. Use the little brass pads to prevent damage to your floor.

BIZILL

look at what i just had made. for the price of, oh.... free. i love having a cnc dept at work. we didn't have brass so i just substituted with stainless steel. trust me, anything will be better than the factory sda feet on my carpet. LOL.

Toolfan66

Very Nice. they look great, will be doing mine next week.

BIZILL

it's times like these i wish i had blown my load (of money) on a mini cnc mill and lathe setup. i'd make **** like this all day long and make a little money while offering a product people need and have fun doing it all at the same time.

hearingimpared

BIZILL wrote: »

look at what i just had made. for the price of, oh.... free. i love having a cnc dept at work. we didn't have brass so i just substituted with stainless steel. trust me, anything will be better than the factory sda feet on my carpet. LOL.

Man they are pretty, nice work BZ.

nspindel

schwarcw wrote: »

Please note that if you have thick carpeting AND padding, the Mye spike has a larger diameter than the original Polk spikes and may actually be supporting some of the weight on the conical transition section of the spike. Translate: all of the weight may not be on the tip if the needle anchored to the floor. Will it make a difference in sound? In theory maybe, in practice probably not.

So what's the proper advice for carpet on padding? I've been thinking about doing spikes on my 1C's. I've got a burber carpet on top of padding, with a cement floor underneath. Any pointers? No pun intended:D

hearingimpared

The spike should pierce both the carpet and padding and dig into the concrete slab. That is exactly what I have going here.

amulford

Why doesn't anyone use a bass brace??? I mean spike 'em by all means, but i think a bass brace would be that much more, or am i f#cked up???

nspindel

hearingimpared wrote: »

The spike should pierce both the carpet and padding and dig into the concrete slab. That is exactly what I have going here.

Which ones are you using?

hearingimpared

nspindel wrote: »

Which ones are you using?

The medium sized (no longer available) Mye sound brass spikes.

BIZILL

now i'm all levelled out and stable as though i was on a slab without carpet. very nice. and it keeps like a 3/8" gap between the carpet and bottom of the sda where as before it was making contact with the carpet. that last pic shows a AA battery's worth of gap. i prefer this. i have a fishtank right next to my sda's and god forbid something should cause 155 gallons of water to flood the house, this will give SOME measure of safety against wet carpet.

schwarcw

nspindel wrote: »

So what's the proper advice for carpet on padding? I've been thinking about doing spikes on my 1C's. I've got a burber carpet on top of padding, with a cement floor underneath. Any pointers? No pun intended:D

The original SDA spike supplied by Polk are cheap. However, they are thin and I believe will go through the carpet and padding to allow most of the weight to go to the floor.

While the handsome Mye spikes may penetrate both the carpet and padding, I believe some of the conical surface is resting on the carpet. Kind of like a pillow effect. Does it matter that much, probably not as long as your are actually puncturing both the carpet and the padding. Some discerning ears may hear a difference.

schwarcw

Bizill, those look super!

BIZILL

thanks carl. thing is, my flat bottom factory foot/pads really didn't sit well at all on my carpet. i never ever paid it any mind until this thread for some reason. i could with very little effort move each behemoth from the top with my hands about 3-4 inches in front to back direction. i had them sitting level, but they weren't stable worth ****.

i thought maybe in time the weight of each sda alone would allow for it to settle and become stable on it's own. no dice. now they are rock solid. and i didn't have help putting them on. i just laid the 1.2tl's down on their face with grills on, unscrewed old feet and installed the new ones till they topped out. then i lifted it back up, first with all the weight on the front two feet. they were strong enough to hold. they might have sheared smooth off if i didn't have them topped out, even though it's stainless steel.

once i had it erected on all fours, then was i able to screw/unscrew each one until the whole speaker sit DEAD LEVEL with zero wobble. i could feel them suckers stabbing their way through the carpet and padding.

gave it a listen and who is to say how much better they sound. i expected bass to be better but it was about the same. but though it may be placebo effect, i swear my soundstage opened up just a bit. and i noticed i had to re-balance my left/right levels. somehow my center stage was thrown off a bit from being thrown off when i first set this system up.

anyway, music to my ears...


...also i'd love to add that they look SEXY with that raised look. it looked really crappy just 'sitting' on top of the carpet.

nspindel

Wow, I don't suppose you could whip up eight more of those????

BIZILL

nspindel wrote: »

Wow, I don't suppose you could whip up eight more of those????

i can do all these things at my work on my own but i no longer run our machines. i do the job planning now. i sit behind a computer all day. so when i need things made i really have to kiss some bootyhole. it's not like things are hard to make, but the various foremen "expect" to be compensated for their 5 minutes of time. if i were the one in charge i'd whip up a bunch of them as it takes no time at all and give them out free to everyone here who wants them. but alas, i don't have that kind of pull around here.

that's why i said earlier, i WISH i had purchased the small cnc machines i was planning to 4 years ago. i would have set it up in my garage. but instead of making that 'investment' i decided to purchase other toys to keep myself from being bored. i'm kicking myself now as i've come across so many different parts i could actually be making alot of money on the side with through ebay and what not. stupid, stupid, stupid, stupid me!

F1nut

nspindel wrote: »

Wow, I don't suppose you could whip up eight more of those????

It's not like the Mye Sound spikes are expensive.




BIZILL, nice job.

nspindel

F1nut wrote: »

It's not like the Mye Sound spikes are expensive.

Am I looking in the wrong place? On the pricing page on the mye site, they're about $500 and up per set.

BIZILL

you were looking at the frames with the spikes. click on the points 'n pads only page.

nspindel

LOL. That's very different

thsmith

BIZILL wrote: »

you were looking at the frames with the spikes. click on the points 'n pads only page.

$10 for the big points and $4 pads

$122 shipped is what I paid.