SDA SRS new to me

2456714

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 22,123
    xschop wrote: »
    I think you'd want the baffle face of them at least on edge of chimney base.

    They would more than likely be too far away from the wall for bass. That area down there is all passive woofer and the little wall shouldn't take much if any away.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 3,305
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    xschop wrote: »
    I think you'd want the baffle face of them at least on edge of chimney base.

    They would more than likely be too far away from the wall for bass. That area down there is all passive woofer and the little wall shouldn't take much if any away.

    Kinda figured as much. Gotta up my post count somehow.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    edited July 2022
    xschop wrote: »
    I think you'd want the baffle face of them at least on edge of chimney base.

    The PR's are the only thing down that low and bass is non-directional, so the speakers are fine where they are. If he pulls them out any further the bass response will suffer.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    Have the common ground amp solved.
    Was really worried about that initially as the phase linear amps have two prong plugs that can be inserted either way.
    After talking with the phase linear guru that built the amps he said just to watch the load the speakers present to the amps.
    Have some fans from back in the day that mount to the heat sinks to help with cooling. We like to crank up the tunes now & then.
    They really help.

    Started without the cable and all was well. After plugging in the sda cable all was still ok….Sweet.
    Was worried about the possibility of torching my amp…. How does one know unless you try.

    Maybe a little experimentation is in the cards 😬

  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    Pitdogg…
    Yes… first gen blade/blade with sl2000 tweets.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    Don’t think a dread naught is needed. Common ground was my concern but it passed that test.
    Unless there’s something about bi-amping that requires a dreadnaught?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    Common ground has nothing to do with the electric plug. Common ground refers to a ground between the negative outputs measured at the negative binding posts.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    edited July 2022
    Thanks F1,

    Was hoping that's what determined common ground but, was still apprehensive hitting that power on button.
    I did do a measurement between the two negative posts on both amps, 0.2 ohm on both.

    Did help ease my mind when talking with Perry (amp builder) as to how the grounding scheme is on these amps. He said they're star grounded to a common bus.
    As a retired Lineman I got hung up on the "Common Ground" term. Thinking ground literally meant to earth which these amps do not do.
    Took me a while to grasp the concept.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    Finally got to crank the amp up a little last night. Right between 10 & 12 o'clock position on amp input sensitivity knobs.
    Started noticing some different sound from the tweeters as the power/loudness hit that point. Only way I can describe is some sssss's started to sound bright, harsh and not natural? An almost slight breakup of the sound....

    Amp got a tad warmer than idle warm. Nothing I'm too concerned about but, time to install the cooling fan.

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    The SL2000 tweeters are nasty, you need to replace them with the RD0194.

    Amps are supposed to get warm, even hot.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 26,677
    You know you are on track when you can cook an egg on the heat sink
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    Bahahaaaaa…. Egg.

    Try to keep my heat at a level and even keel. Almost like me, to hot and I begin to shut down 🤣

    F1, you’re reading my mind.
    I was gonna stay at stock for a while but no longer. We like to crank the tunes.

    Gonna be asking for guidance here.
    Before getting too involved right away… would you suggest the 194’s as the first change?
    Are those still available?
    If not, is there a comparable or better choice?

    From the reads sounds like the crossover would be a good idea too.
    All original crossovers.
    When I pulled the passive saw 1986. Assuming manufacture date as the prior owner bought these in 87.

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 22,123
    edited July 2022
    Yes get the RD-0194 asap!! They are that good.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    Question….
    In this speaker, is the only crossover the “Isophase Crossover” attached to that plate?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    edited July 2022
    Yes.

    Do the tweeters first.

    By running an amp at a cooler temperature than it would normally be at you are not allowing it to perform at its best.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    edited July 2022
    F1nut wrote: »
    Yes.

    Do the tweeters first.

    By running an amp at a cooler temperature than it would normally be at you are not allowing it to perform at its best.

    RD-0194 it is.

    I understand what you're saying but...
    Phase Linear amps have a known shortcoming when it comes to loads 4 ohm and lower. Even with the full WOPL upgrades cooling is highly recommended. Reasoning behind this, although they have a large enough TX the amount of cooling fins were found to be marginal.
    When these amps were on tour with the big name bands in the day, some actually used dry ice and fans to keep the heat in check. They were in touring cabinets with multiple amps and cooling was paramount for reliability.
    These are my end all amps for the future and beyond.
    Gonna trust my amp builder on this one, thank you.

    Questions will follow for help.
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,701
    edited July 2022
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    Have the common ground amp solved.
    After talking with the phase linear guru that built the amps he said just to watch the load the speakers present to the amps.
    skipshot12 wrote: »

    Phase Linear amps have a known shortcoming when it comes to loads 4 ohm and lower.

    The SDA SRS impedance is 4 ohms nominal. If your amp is comfortable with low impedance loads, no worries. This appears not to be the case with your Phase Linear amps.

    A long time ago, I used to drive my SRSs with a Yamaha MX-1000 amp (in my home theater system). It got scorching hot, which surprised me since the MX-1000 was rated to drive speakers down to 2 ohms impedance.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    That MX1000 is a nice amp. I had the MX1000u that drove my Infinity Kappa 8's after my Phase Linear 400 II went belly up driving those speakers. That amp (400) would get so hot you wouldn't want to touch it. Learned a very expensive to me lesson...
    I miss that Yamaha amp.
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 918
    I know the sda srs are 4ohm but if they are a similar load as my sda2a's which seem to be harder on amps than any other 4ohm speakers I've ever owned. I used to overheat my adcom GFA 555 amp on occasion and I had a few receivers blow up, including a carver receiver which went up in a giant flame.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    Interesting you say that about the 4ohm load of the Polk's.
    They seem to present about the same strain on my amp as the Kappa 9's do so far. Not on paper or graphs but by the heat generated on the Phase Linear amp. Playing at approximately the same loudness, strictly by ear and not measured by an SPL meter the amp gets to about the same temperature.

    The Kappa 9's have been measured to drop down to 0.8ohm at certain frequencies at a couple points.
    My guess is that it's not just what's measured but also how the speaker presents the total load and for how long?

    Both are sealed cabinets.
    SDA SRS has 12 drivers and the Kappa 9 has 7 drivers.
    Maybe how many drivers are being driven?

    I don't know this to be exactly so as I haven't had a long listening session with my Polk's at loud levels yet. I've only done a 2-3 hour run @ a moderate level on the Polk's so far.

    Very interesting.....


  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    Had no luck @ Polk customer service with the 194’s.
    Anyone dealt with Midwest speaker repair for the 194’s?
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    They have very good reviews….
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 918
    I believe the interconnect cable circuit makes them a little harder on amps.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 22,123
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    They have very good reviews….

    It's either Polk or Midwest, they're the same tweeter from both.
    Midwest and speaker exchange are both legit

    https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/polk-sl1000-sl2000-tweeter/
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    Had no luck @ Polk customer service with the 194’s.
    Anyone dealt with Midwest speaker repair for the 194’s?

    What part number did you give the rep?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 4,646
    F1nut wrote: »
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    Had no luck @ Polk customer service with the 194’s.
    Anyone dealt with Midwest speaker repair for the 194’s?

    What part number did you give the rep?

    ^^^^^this. When I called Polk and asked for the RDO 194 they said they had no suck part number. When I told them SL2000 they were like " that part number has been discontinued but we have the RDO-194 as a replacement. Would you like that?"
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    It's RD0(zero)194 not RDO194.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 3,305
    Very strange. Maybe should have asked for the Wuhans.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    edited July 2022
    I did say RDO as in oh....

    Guess I should have asked RD0 as in zero.
    I'll try again, my bad.
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,426
    edited July 2022
    Probably my bad...just looked over our PM's and I typed "O" vs "0". Common mistake when casually referencing. I've purchased from both Polk and The Speaker Exchange (TSE). Here's a snap from my last TSE order. SKU's are the proper nomenclatures for the respective OEM tweeters they replace. Both SKU's are used when ordering from either company:

    cvbzt8fc6mkl.jpg



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