SDA SRS new to me
Comments
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It's ok to put them face down on cardboard or something to dry. It fact I use small pieces when I glue mine. That way they can turn with no fear of tearing the surround.
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skipshot12 wrote: »Tanks for the tip.
Trip to ace to see what I can find to spread the jb.
Just waiting on the BH 5 for the cabinet and the armacell for the insides of the baskets.
I like what I read about the inside basket treatment some of you’s have reported on.
I would really like to get more definition in the midrange.
I like the idea of mechanical upgrades. I’m a tinkerer…..
Will save the electrical upgrade of the crossover for last.
This is a fun trip for me to play mad scientist 😬
You have the right idea. You can put big $$$ caps in and still not reach their full potential until all the mechanical deficiencies are addressed.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Ima gonna add to your long list.
The end caps are attached with threaded studs. The nuts tend to loosen over time, which will result in an air leak. So, be sure to check if they are loose. I recommend adding a lock washer to prevent the nuts from ever loosening again.
I'll grab some lock washers at Ace. -
It's ok to put them face down on cardboard or something to dry. It fact I use small pieces when I glue mine. That way they can turn with no fear of tearing the surround.
Thanks, I was worried about the surrounds with putting them face down.
That'll save some awkward movements with turning them in my hands while applying the JB. -
Pay no mind to my supplement dish in the background...
Spreading worked much better. Cleaner looking job for sure.
Getting a hand on how much JB Weld to intilially put on the magnet without creating a monster amount to clean up.
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Sa-Weet... the BH 5 has arrived.
Can install as I go. 4x4 squares.
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I'm not sure what internal differences there are between the two speakers, but here is DarqueKnight's BH5 thread for his 1.2tl speakers:
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/148198/blackhole-5-damping-material-in-the-sda-srs-1-2tl/p1George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
I believe most have gone to just adding BH5 directly behind the mid-drivers, none on the side walls. A little bit goes a very long way.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I believe most have gone to just adding BH5 directly behind the mid-drivers, none on the side walls. A little bit goes a very long way.
I used a 3" strip on the sides of my 2.3tls. The strip is just long enough for the drivers on each side. -
Tanks for the link Garden…
Reading all I can.
Gonna go to a friend’s place tomorrow and cut up my bh5 on a saw. -
Got the bh5 cut.
Also picked up some powergrab to seal the cabinet.
F1, the nuts on the top piece were only finger tight.
From all the years of vibration no doubt. Picked up some lock washers to keep that from happening again.
file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/fd/13/C27D0F28-FE12-42C5-87C3-893CE6D35BBB/IMG_1905.JPG
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Think I did something stupid by way of not knowing…
Is there a difference in my MW drivers? From reading the forum there’s a 6503 & 6511. One’s the dimensional driver and the other’s the stereo driver.
By looking at the sticker on the back they look all the same. All say made for the CRS.
What’s the easiest way to tell them apart? -
I'm surprised they aren't marked somehow (Ruh Roh). 6503 is 6.54 Ohms and 6511 is 3.13 Ohms.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
The MWxxxx model is printed near the top of the label. Like this...
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
6503 is stereo, 6511 is dimensional.skipshot12 wrote: »Is there a difference in my MW drivers? From reading the forum there’s a 6503 & 6511. One’s the dimensional driver and the other’s the stereo driver.
SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
Two things.
Picture above shows what looks like a 4" square BH square, is that because your speakers have boxes behind the drivers preventing you from running a continuous 4" strip behind all the MW's top to bottom on both sides.
Didn't the first SRS blade/Blade model have MW6503 in all 8 positions -
The MWxxxx model is printed near the top of the label. Like this...
We’ll friggin duh on me. Right in front of me.
Thanks F1
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Two things.
Picture above shows what looks like a 4" square BH square, is that because your speakers have boxes behind the drivers preventing you from running a continuous 4" strip behind all the MW's top to bottom on both sides.
Didn't the first SRS blade/Blade model have MW6503 in all 8 positions
Yes it is a 4x4 square.
See if I can attach the photo I took with my phone.
Not completely a box but close.
Trying squares behind the drivers first.
We’ll see how that damps the megaphone effect I’m getting from my midrange.
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Inside the top right MW driver. -
Thought about a whole strip but decided against that for the first go.
Can add later if I haven’t damped the mids enough.
Being a tad cautious as this is my first go at the SDA SRS’s.
Damn this is taking me a lot of time!
I’m most likely being overly cautious.
Pretty sure that’s my OCD… 🤣 -
I have 5 of my MW drivers out on the left speaker.
All say 6503.
It shouldn’t matter how I put them back in based on that.
I’ll do an ohm check just to be sure. -
It doesn't matter.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You are correct again Sir…
Ohmed out 6 drivers and all read 6.5-6.7 ohms. -
Have to take a break on my sda mods.
Had a flash flood here and had quite a bit of water into our house.
Well that definitely made my decision whether to put my Polk’s in the basement….
Not gonna happen.
Did ruin quite a few irreplaceable lp’s 🤬
My coin-op Tempest, subwoofer and some furniture.
Lucked out that the water didn’t reach my turntables.
On top of that the insurance company says no coverage for flash floods. We’re nowhere near the flood plain here.
They’re also not covering water that came into our finished garage. All walls and ceiling drywall soaked. That came in by the chimney where it overran the flashing. And we just had a malarkey roof put on 3 years ago.
Don’t understand why I pay for homeowners insurance…. What a racket.
Apologize for the off topic rant but needed to vent a little….. -
What a bummer. Sorry to read this! Yah, the fine print on homeowner's insurance....I'm in agreement. Vent away.➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
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Damn!!! Sorry to hear such bad news.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
We came out lucky compared to some of our neighbors.
All water & moisture been removed along with the small damage to the floor, walls & insulated.
Back to what keeps me sane….
Onto the right speaker. Have two MW drivers and the passive left to do.
One thing I noticed in the difference in the mods.
The Dynamat on the passive made the largest change in sound. Bass tightened up considerably.
The Dynamat & BH5 on the MW’s took out some of what I call a hollowness in the voices. Kinda like removing an echo hall sound.
It was a very noticeable improvement when doing a listening test.
Did the left speaker completely so as to do a comparison to the unmodified right speaker.
Dynamat the drivers & passive, JB’d the MW magnets, 4x4 inch squares behind the MW’s & sealed the cab with Loctite.
Left channel speaker provided a much clearer midrange sound with voices and drums.
Bass sounds tighter too.
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And thank you to all wishing us well…
The Gods must have heard & listening.
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Finishing up the mechanical mods on my speakers. 1-1/2 mw & passive to go.
Have a question to those that have come before me, that have been there done that, regarding the crossovers.
I have the blade/blade original SDA SRS.
Once done with the mech upgrade I’d like to address the crossovers.
So my question….
I don’t know whether to replace like for like in the crossovers or go to upgrade caps & resistors.
What I would really like to do is change the voicing of my speakers a bit. I would like to go more to a more accurate & detailed sound vs a mellower colored sound.
What I’ve read is this…
Sonicaps provide an upgrade in comparison to original caps but are on the mellow side?
Clarity Caps also provide an upgrade to originals but have a more detailed and slightly brighter approach?
So….
Like for like, Sonicaps or Clarity Caps?
If this helps I like deep tight bass, detailed highs along with detailed & clear un-colored mids with attack on drums.
I really love what I’m hearing from my Polk’s and would like to take them to the next level.
From reads it sounds like Clarity for caps & Deulund for resistors.
Looking for some guidance y’all….
Skip -
IME, Sonicap and Clarity CSA sound alike. Sonicap has an advantage of having the exact values.
A lot of reading for you.
https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.htmlPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
