Do power cables make a difference?

mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
edited April 2018 in Electronics
I read another thread that you can hear a difference in power cables. Not to hijack the thread I thought I’d start a new thread. I think it’s a bunch of baloney.

Assuming you have a standard AC outlet how far do you go back to upgrade your wiring? Get new AC outlets? Get new electrical runs? Get new breaker panel? And new breakers? Get new 200A service wire to your house? Request 3 phase commercial power?

A power regulator and noise conditioner I get, the transformers need good clean AC. But what is the point of an upgraded power cord to assuming a standard IEC receptacle. Once the new power cord is plugged in, what kind of wiring is inside? Also I’ve seen fuse upgrades, really? $100 for a new fuse will make a sonic difference? Really, after AC has gone through a transformer (likely) and then rectified and regulated (unless it’s an AC circuit) will the fuse allow more current than a standard one... nope, it’s supposted to commit suiside.

If people continue to buy, there will always be a market for suckers IMHO.
Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
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Comments

  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 9,314
    giphy.gif
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • ConradiclesConradicles Posts: 5,989
    They look better.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 8,805
    Lots of attitude and snark in your post. I'm guessing this thread nosedives as a result.

    To think, you could've approached this a lot differently and actually gotten an intelligent discussion going.
  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 2,819
    Dis gonna be gud!
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,759
    Oh I’m not looking forward to this...
    However I do agree with you that it doesn’t make sense that it would sound better. However I’ve never heard an upgraded power cord so I wouldn’t know.
  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
    @Conradicles that makes sense. Answer accepted and let’s just leave it at that.
    Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
    Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
    Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
    Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
    Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
    Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
    Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
    Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
    Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
    Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 10,740
    I'm still homeless!
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 9,314
    lightman1 wrote: »
    I'm still homeless!

    Are you going planning on getting a house?
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
    I’m all for solid foundations.

    2012 x I have a relatively new power run from the street/electric company, from a new step down transformer to the house.

    2011 - A new 200amp heavy gauge aluminum (electricians choice) service main feed to a new breaker panel. All new breakers and 240V panel/service entrance surge protector. All new electrical outlets with hand torqued screwed down terminals.

    The copper in the walls are still original to the house and should still be viable if left undisturbed with some minor oxidation. I run standard power cords to a Panamax regulator & filter, conditioner and the standard included power cables to the audio components.
    Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
    Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
    Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
    Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
    Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
    Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
    Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
    Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
    Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
    Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 9,314
    Nightfall wrote: »
    lightman1 wrote: »
    I'm still homeless!

    Are you going planning on getting a house?

    How'd that going get in there? Keyboard ghosts.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 1,511
    edited April 2018
    "Do power cables make a difference"? Hmmm; I'll be finding that out today firsthand rather than relying on internet speculation. I have a pair of 7 gauge Pangeas arriving today that are 10' long which allows me to go all the way back to the breaker panel. At the panel yesterday I installed a pair of dedicated 20 amp receptacles with a mere 10 gauge wire for their short 18'' run out from the panel. My guess is there's going to be a very noticeable difference on my 1200 wpc monoblocks with their 124 s/n ratio. On a receiver based rig with a short cord plugged into a crowded circuit my best guess is no it more than likely won't make an audible difference.

    There is a possibility to that just maybe those power supplies in my monoblocks won't benefit. If the thread isn't shut down by the end of the day I'll come back and post my findings :)
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 3,858
    Is there any documented measured difference? I've see other threads asking this question and have even asked myself, and I can't recall ever seeing documentation showing an acoustic difference. I know in car audio, you can choke an amp with too small a wire, but in those cases the amps can draw over [email protected] Any kind of draw like that in a home audio amp happens internally, after the transformer/rectifier.
  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
    @motorstereo in cases where you are near the circuit rating of a 5-15 to C14 plug, even if it’s for a transient, it would be best to move to the higher voltage rating. The MC1.25KW monoblocks look to peak at 12A at 120V, moving to 240V its 6.5A and much better headroom. I looked at the manual and I couldn’t tell if voltages are switchable, or if you need to order the desired voltage. Also if you run dual outlets for each and want a good balance each should go to a different phase on the main for symmetrical current draw, hot 1 and hot 2 are out of phase coming off a transformer where center tap is bonded to neutral and ground.

    Does matching the phase also make a difference? Assuming we’re using the standard 120v and not a 240v outlet.
    Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
    Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
    Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
    Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
    Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
    Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
    Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
    Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
    Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
    Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
    @BlueFox I’m not doing this for amusement? Also I purposely did not post my questions and opinions in another thread to take it off topic or disrespect and disrupt the flow. I fact going by troll standards you did exactly that. Do power cords make a difference?
    Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
    Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
    Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
    Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
    Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
    Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
    Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
    Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
    Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
    Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • marvda1marvda1 Posts: 4,105
    if you enjoy the sound you are getting from your system, why worry about it.
    Amplifiers: MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800,Kinki Studio EX-M1
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Transport/Dac: L.K.S MH-DA004, Cayin Venus cd-100i, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkI,
    Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2, Analysis Plus Black Mesh Oval 9,
    Cerious Technologies Graphene Extreme
    Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2, Gabriel Gold Reckoning
    Power Cables by: Cullen Cables, 6sons Audio, Swiss Cables
  • mrbigbluelightmrbigbluelight Posts: 8,091
    Do power cords make a difference ?
    Some people can hear a difference.
    Some people can't.

    Now, for a brief musical interlude while we take a brief break for complimentary snacks and beverages in the lobby.


    MrBigBlueLight
    Here to pick your brain & steal your cookies
    Shifting to Plan B+
  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 1,511
    mpitogo wrote: »
    @motorstereo in cases where you are near the circuit rating of a 5-15 to C14 plug, even if it’s for a transient, it would be best to move to the higher voltage rating. The MC1.25KW monoblocks look to peak at 12A at 120V, moving to 240V its 6.5A and much better headroom. I looked at the manual and I couldn’t tell if voltages are switchable, or if you need to order the desired voltage. Also if you run dual outlets for each and want a good balance each should go to a different phase on the main for symmetrical current draw, hot 1 and hot 2 are out of phase coming off a transformer where center tap is bonded to neutral and ground.

    Does matching the phase also make a difference? Assuming we’re using the standard 120v and not a 240v outlet.

    Yes the MC1201's are switchable to 240 volts but it's more involved than I want to get into. I can also say with complete confidence there will never ever be a time where I'll need that extra headroom either. 99% of the time they run at sane levels. During that other 1% I still don't come anywhere near their limits to my knowledge. I ran them what I thought was very hard for several hours and they were barely even at operating temperature.
    Yes I have each receptacle wired to the opposite 120 taps. If there's a problem (hum?) doing it that way I've made things easy to swap back to using both amps on the same 120 tap.
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,535
    edited April 2018
    tonyb wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Is there any documented measured difference? I've see other threads asking this question and have even asked myself, and I can't recall ever seeing documentation showing an acoustic difference. I know in car audio, you can choke an amp with too small a wire, but in those cases the amps can draw over [email protected] Any kind of draw like that in a home audio amp happens internally, after the transformer/rectifier.

    Does it matter ? Many things in audio "measure" differently, but still not audible. There are some things that measurements simply can't tell you. Like soundstage width and height, how well it will gel with the rest of your system, clarity and dynamics, decay. All that may not apply to power cables specifically, but do to cables in general.

    Power cables, like all cables, add or subtract from the overall sound. To what degree depends on many variables. Your not going to put a 200 buck power cord on a 400 buck receiver, know what I'm saying ?

    The more revealing your system gets, the more these other changes become more noticeable, and the more they will contribute to the overall sound. Audio, being subjective as it is too, is hard to attach blanket statements to. Just sayin'....because most who deny xyz in audio, either never tried them, never tried them under the right scenarios, or simply have no idea what they are listening for.

    I say "under the right scenarios", because some may just do as I explained with a 200 buck power cord and a 400 buck receiver. The better your system gets, the more power cords can and will make a difference, maybe small, maybe large, depends.
    Regardless of the specifics, (ICs, cables, etc) much wisdom in the above. When I feel I’ve done all the big stuff, and I believe I’ve just three* remaining, I will begin that journey.
    * prepro upgrade, acoustics, bi-** or tri**-amped surrounds,
    ** depending upon your point of view

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 7,512
    Your setup has become tiresome. Play it!
    rpf65 wrote: »
    I’m thinking you’ve reached the point where people are afraid to open your posts.

    I disabled, I am the South Carolina woman who gouged her eyes out on meth.
  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 7,570
    mpitogo wrote: »
    I read another thread that you can hear a difference in power cables. Not to hijack the thread I thought I’d start a new thread. I think it’s a bunch of baloney.

    Assuming you have a standard AC outlet how far do you go back to upgrade your wiring? Get new AC outlets? Get new electrical runs? Get new breaker panel? And new breakers? Get new 200A service wire to your house? Request 3 phase commercial power?

    A power regulator and noise conditioner I get, the transformers need good clean AC. But what is the point of an upgraded power cord to assuming a standard IEC receptacle. Once the new power cord is plugged in, what kind of wiring is inside? Also I’ve seen fuse upgrades, really? $100 for a new fuse will make a sonic difference? Really, after AC has gone through a transformer (likely) and then rectified and regulated (unless it’s an AC circuit) will the fuse allow more current than a standard one... nope, it’s supposted to commit suiside.

    If people continue to buy, there will always be a market for suckers IMHO.

    Just try it and see what it does for you and your system. You might be surprised. I think of it as an antenna, reduces excess noise picked up from the surrounding. Also, better power cords have larger gauge wiring which helps with current transmission.

    I do agree with you though, how does that last 3 feet help when the internal 300 feet is standard run o' the mill 12g wiring? That I have yet to figure out.

    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> Audio Research Reference 40th Anniversary -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2


    Main speakers system evolution over the years:
    Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???

    Old Gear:
    Speakers:
    BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source:
    Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification:
    Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ARC Ref 40th Anniversary
    Amplification:
    HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer:
    Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 26,344
    edited April 2018
    In general in life (I think) there is considerable value added for a person by manifesting the following characteristics.

    * An open mind
    * An empirical but informed approach to acquiring infromation on a subject
    * A healthy skepticism (but stopping short of cynicism)
    * An earnest interest in seeking out and understanding the underlying how and why of any claims.

    Here's one quantum of food for thought vis-a-vis wires of any sort. How important are the terminations (i.e., the interfaces) between components and their interconnections? In the case of power cords -- how important is the blade/socket connection from the wall to the cord and the IEC connector/cord connector at the component end. Is it not plausible that resistance (or AC impedance) at the interfaces might make a difference, independent of anything else?

    The nice thing is that these are testable hypotheses.
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 26,344
    edited April 2018
    Joe Roberts -- the redoubtable founder of the great (and much missed) Sound Practices magazine of the 1990s -- is a well-educated guy (anthropologist) who's spent much of his life chasing the hifi dragon, running in some pretty rarefied circles and, more to the point, building up a huge practical database of experience informed by "book" knowledge and a true and abiding love of and enthusiasm for the subject.

    Joe's recently written some (I would suggest) cogent and insightful commentary on how darn hard it can be to tease apart the objective and subjective in this furshlugginer hobby. I offer a couple of examples -- these may be a little arcane in the abstract... but I'd encourage anyone with an interest in this hobby to peruse the threads from which these posts were taken.

    http://www.hifihaven.org/index.php?threads/heater-wire-question.3470/#post-64775
    http://www.hifihaven.org/index.php?threads/truly-fantastic-tube-phono-kit-for-beginners.3471/page-7#post-65734

    Open ears & an open mind are excellent tools, I'd opine.

  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
    Gotta love it. Go to 10:30 on this video.
    Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
    Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
    Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
    Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
    Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
    Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
    Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
    Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
    Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
    Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 13,833
    mpitogo wrote: »
    If people continue to buy, there will always be a market for suckers IMHO.

    This is troll territory.

    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1 file player
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 7,512
    BlueFox wrote: »
    mpitogo wrote: »
    If people continue to buy, there will always be a market for suckers IMHO.

    This is troll territory.

    Territory?
    rpf65 wrote: »
    I’m thinking you’ve reached the point where people are afraid to open your posts.

    I disabled, I am the South Carolina woman who gouged her eyes out on meth.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 8,805
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