Power distribution and conditioning

1246789

Comments

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited February 2018
    I don’t think the idea is to plug/unplug the cable over and over. The idea to me is does a tight grip improve conductivity. I do know bigger power cables, such as Pangea, tend to fall out of ordinary sockets.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I don’t think the idea is to plug/unplug the cable over and over. The idea to me is does a tight grip improve conductivity. I do know bigger power cables, such as Pangea, tend to fall out of ordinary sockets.

    My Wireworld feeding the Power Plant falls out of a regular socket, and, I think it's a lighter weight, fairly flexible cord.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,949
    Yeah, that makes sense, maybe it was designed for use with the larger Pangea power cables like the AC-9.
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I don’t think the idea is to plug/unplug the cable over and over. The idea to me is does a tight grip improve conductivity. I do know bigger power cables, such as Pangea, tend to fall out of ordinary sockets.

  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,981
    Rather have a tight grip than a loose one. Seriously though, how many times are you going to unplug stuff ? I have stuff plugged in for years without ever unplugging them.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
    edited February 2018
    I don't understand the need for power "conditioning". I understand if you look at your power on an oscilloscope you can sometimes see less than perfect sine waves. But every audio component I know of converts AC to DC before doing anything else. Why does it matter to make a perfect sine wave before its all converted to DC? What am I missing here?

    As for surge protection......I have not been able to hear a difference with or without it but it did save my system once. A tree fell down in the neighborhood and when they turned the power back on we had a power surge (probably a new guy hitting the wrongs switch?). I noticed a loud hum and it was my sub giving a 60 cycle tone (it was plugged directly into the wall).

    My Ex called and complained and the power company did eventually admit it was there fault. They sent us a check to replace the sub.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    tonyb wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    Sorry @tonyb us youngsters trying to keep up.

    MOV = Metal Oxide Varister?

    Move
    Over
    Verb

    :):)

    Hahaha!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • vcwatkins
    vcwatkins Posts: 1,993
    I bought a couple PS Audio Dectets a couple years ago when they were half off. I was shocked by the improvement they made over my APC and Panamax protectors/conditioners.

    Later bumped up to the PSA Power Plant 3 in the den and swapped in a PSA wall outlet. Noticeable improvement, but not as big an incremental SQ jump as the basic-to-Dectet. We have frequent power issues in this neighborhood, so I feel much better about the protection/sound quality mix with the P3. It took me a while to come to terms with the cost of the P3 (discounted to $1,500), but I will keep forever and never look back.
    b]Beach Audio[/b]: Rega RP6 (mods) - AT33PTG/II - Parks Budgie SUT - PSAudio NPC * Eversolo DMP-A6 * Topping D90iii * Joule-Electra LA-100 mkIII * Pass Aleph 30 * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 2.3tl (mods) * PSAudio PPP3
    Beach Study: Pro-Ject Stream Box S2 Ultra & Pre Box S2 * Pass ACA * DH Labs SS Q10 * Brines Folded ML-TQWT RS 40-1354 * PSA Dectet
    Beach Master: WiiM Pro * Dayens Menuetto * Zu Libtec * Dynaudio Audience 50
    Beach Den: Bluesound Powernode 2i * DH Labs SS Q10 * Zu Omen DWII * Richard Gray RGPC
    Town Study: WiiM Pro * Chord Qute (Pardo) * Elekit TU-8600 * MIT S3 * Revel M22 * Beyer DT-990 * Shunyata Hydra 2
    Town Den: Music Hall mm5.1se - Denon DL-103r - Jolida JD9ii (mods) * WiiM Pro * Cary xCiter * Rogue 99 Magnum * Schiit Aegir * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 1.2tl (mods) * Dectet * Bottlehead Crack - Senn 600
    Town Porch: WiiM Pro Plus * Sunfire Sig II * Canare 4S11 * Magnepan 1.6 * Dectet
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,949
    edited February 2018
    The need for unplugging and re-plugging would most likely only arise if you're switching out components, moving the system, or trying out different power cables.

    However, regardless of if you only plug a cable in once for the first time, and leave it, it's still going to be getting scratched upon insertion. This could hurt resale value of an expensive cord that you're trying to flip, or even invalidate your 30 day return window of a new cable, under the stance that it now shows "use".

    There has to be a difference between a nice snug outlet, and the insane grip that the Pangea outlets have. I'm planning on calling Audio Advisor and discussing this next week.
    tonyb wrote: »
    Seriously though, how many times are you going to unplug stuff ?

    This was my understanding as well. The gear's power supply basically conditions the power before it gets to the individual components.
    delkal wrote: »
    I don't understand the need for power "conditioning". I understand if you look at your power on an oscilloscope you can sometimes see less than perfect sine waves. But every audio component I know of converts AC to DC before doing anything else. Why does it matter to make a perfect sine wave before its all converted to DC? What am I missing here?

    Nice, glad you like the Dectet. How snug are the outlets?
    vcwatkins wrote: »
    I bought a couple PS Audio Dectets a couple years ago when they were half off. I was shocked by the improvement they made over my APC and Panamax protectors/conditioners.

  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,569
    The Audioquest Niagara has really clamped down outlets.

    They recommend priming it first with a cheap home depot type power cord before putting in the good stuff.

    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    @Clipdat I have never bought a cable or cord where I thought "I need to keep this in mint condition so I can resell it."
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,949
    I'm not saying I personally do either, as I tend to not ever sell my cables and accessories, but I'm just stating it as a possible/potential circumstance since some people do flip a lot of gear.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    @Clipdat I have never bought a cable or cord where I thought "I need to keep this in mint condition so I can resell it."

  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    delkal wrote: »
    I don't understand the need for power "conditioning". I understand if you look at your power on an oscilloscope you can sometimes see less than perfect sine waves. But every audio component I know of converts AC to DC before doing anything else. Why does it matter to make a perfect sine wave before its all converted to DC? What am I missing here?

    Probably quite a bit :^ /

    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    delkal wrote: »
    I don't understand the need for power "conditioning". I understand if you look at your power on an oscilloscope you can sometimes see less than perfect sine waves. But every audio component I know of converts AC to DC before doing anything else. Why does it matter to make a perfect sine wave before its all converted to DC? What am I missing here?

    Probably quite a bit :^ /

    Yes, that poster needs to do a lot of research, and try some things. I am not going to waste time discussing the subject, but I will say dedicated lines, power conditioners, and power cables have given me a tremendous improvement in sound. My speakers are the only thing that made a bigger difference than clean power.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    BlueFox wrote: »
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    delkal wrote: »
    I don't understand the need for power "conditioning". I understand if you look at your power on an oscilloscope you can sometimes see less than perfect sine waves. But every audio component I know of converts AC to DC before doing anything else. Why does it matter to make a perfect sine wave before its all converted to DC? What am I missing here?

    Probably quite a bit :^ /

    Yes, that poster needs to do a lot of research, and try some things. I am not going to waste time discussing the subject, but I will say dedicated lines, power conditioners, and power cables have given me a tremendous improvement in sound. My speakers are the only thing that made a bigger difference than clean power.

    Ha ha...yeah, I started off with a long, drawn out post myself but decided that those 4 words summed it up pretty well. I've been experimenting with different cables and tweaks of all sorts for 40 plus years and, like anyone else that has can attest, I've come to the conclusion that you can't rely on what might make sense theoretically because we'd be pretty naive to believe that "we" (the experts in any field...take your pick) know all there is to know about how **** works.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,949
    edited February 2018
    Why don't you expand on what he's supposedly missing, instead of just making a worthless sarcastic comment that contributes nothing to the discussion at hand?
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    Probably quite a bit :^ /

    How is it a "waste of time" to meaningfully contribute to this thread and the discussion at hand? Isn't that the very point of this site - to have discussions?
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Yes, that poster needs to do a lot of research, and try some things. I am not going to waste time discussing the subject, but I will say dedicated lines, power conditioners, and power cables have given me a tremendous improvement in sound. My speakers are the only thing that made a bigger difference than clean power.

  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    I did, probably as you were posting. Let him experiment for 40 yrs like many of us have and then come back with some actual real-life experience.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,111
    Oh, here we go again.

    m2mdcf466tjv.jpg
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,111
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    I did, probably as you were posting. Let him experiment for 40 yrs like many of us have and then come back with some actual real-life experience.

    And you? You stop making so much sense. :p
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited February 2018
    Viking64 wrote: »
    Oh, here we go again.

    m2mdcf466tjv.jpg

    I know....I've been here since 2003 I think and 15 yrs later we're still in the same infinite loop :^ /
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited February 2018
    Clipdat wrote: »
    How is it a "waste of time" to meaningfully contribute to this thread and the discussion at hand? Isn't that the very point of this site - to have discussions?

    LOL. I guess you missed “but I will say dedicated lines, power conditioners, and power cables have given me a tremendous improvement in sound. My speakers are the only thing that made a bigger difference than clean power.

    Can’t get more meaningful than that. :)
    Post edited by BlueFox on
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,569
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Why don't you expand on what he's supposedly missing, instead of just making a worthless sarcastic comment that contributes nothing to the discussion at hand?
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    Probably quite a bit :^ /

    How is it a "waste of time" to meaningfully contribute to this thread and the discussion at hand? Isn't that the very point of this site - to have discussions?
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Yes, that poster needs to do a lot of research, and try some things. I am not going to waste time discussing the subject, but I will say dedicated lines, power conditioners, and power cables have given me a tremendous improvement in sound. My speakers are the only thing that made a bigger difference than clean power.

    To be fair, you have spent more on your power cords and conditioners than on any other component sans the S5 I believe.
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    You guys are feisty tonight! Just watched 2 more episodes of Punisher on Netflix, and I tell ya, had to take a break.

    But in reading this thread, @delkal got it a little bit like Frank Castle!

    @delkal, I'm a believer now. Just got a Furman Elite 15PFi, and I tell ya, what a difference. Quieted things down magnificently. No more interference from other electrical devices in the same circuit, or having to deal with power fluctuations coming into the house.

    Just pure clean, low noise power coming into my rig. And the peace of mind that I got a heavy duty surge protector keeping it safe.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    Joey_V wrote: »
    To be fair, you have spent more on your power cords and conditioners than on any other component sans the S5 I believe.

    Yes, and if you include the purchases made that resulted in the upgrades to the current gear, it might be double. :)

    Actually, if you divide the system into three parts, source and IC cables, speakers, and power then the cost is roughly the same for each.

    Power is a component, and a very critical component. I have posted in other threads that I now consider clean power and vibration control the foundation for a good stereo.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    @Clipdat the subject has been discussed at length here before, and I'm not against offering up my take on it again, but, the onus is with the person questioning the concepts and theories to research it first to get a basis of info.

    There is professional info available, with a Google search, that will give measurements and detailed reasonings as to why clean power at tge start is better.

    Or, like me, he could buy a conditioner and try it. Even though I deal with various levels and types of electricity every day, I was convinced that I wouldn't hear much, if any, difference and would be utilizing the liberal return policy MD offers. I became a practical believer.

  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    verb wrote: »
    You guys are feisty tonight! Just watched 2 more episodes of Punisher on Netflix, and I tell ya, had to take a break.

    But in reading this thread, @delkal got it a little bit like Frank Castle!

    @delkal, I'm a believer now. Just got a Furman Elite 15PFi, and I tell ya, what a difference. Quieted things down magnificently. No more interference from other electrical devices in the same circuit, or having to deal with power fluctuations coming into the house.

    Just pure clean, low noise power coming into my rig. And the peace of mind that I got a heavy duty surge protector keeping it safe.

    Not only have I been watching The Punisher, but I've also got a Furman Elite 15PFi....now that's eerie.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Why don't you expand on what he's supposedly missing, instead of just making a worthless sarcastic comment that contributes nothing to the discussion at hand?
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    Probably quite a bit :^ /

    How is it a "waste of time" to meaningfully contribute to this thread and the discussion at hand? Isn't that the very point of this site - to have discussions?
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Yes, that poster needs to do a lot of research, and try some things. I am not going to waste time discussing the subject, but I will say dedicated lines, power conditioners, and power cables have given me a tremendous improvement in sound. My speakers are the only thing that made a bigger difference than clean power.

    I'm with @Clipdat on this one. However @delkal did come on a bit strong, maybe even troll like on the power conditioning front.

    @delkal there are plenty of threads in CP and other forums out there. Do some research and I venture to guess you'll be intrigued.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    dragon1952 wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    You guys are feisty tonight! Just watched 2 more episodes of Punisher on Netflix, and I tell ya, had to take a break.

    But in reading this thread, @delkal got it a little bit like Frank Castle!

    @delkal, I'm a believer now. Just got a Furman Elite 15PFi, and I tell ya, what a difference. Quieted things down magnificently. No more interference from other electrical devices in the same circuit, or having to deal with power fluctuations coming into the house.

    Just pure clean, low noise power coming into my rig. And the peace of mind that I got a heavy duty surge protector keeping it safe.

    Not only have I been watching The Punisher, but I've also got a Furman Elite 15PFi....now that's eerie.

    OMG dude Punisher - Wow!

    Furman Elite - I guess we're brothers!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    kharp1 wrote: »
    @Clipdat the subject has been discussed at length here before, and I'm not against offering up my take on it again, but, the onus is with the person questioning the concepts and theories to research it first to get a basis of info.

    There is professional info available, with a Google search, that will give measurements and detailed reasonings as to why clean power at tge start is better.

    Or, like me, he could buy a conditioner and try it. Even though I deal with various levels and types of electricity every day, I was convinced that I wouldn't hear much, if any, difference and would be utilizing the liberal return policy MD offers. I became a practical believer.

    I hear ya @kharp1, but how many recent threads are really new questions?

    I look at my history here on CP, and yes I do my research, get a lot of what I need, but some threads are old, others are opinion based sans facts, and IMO the discussion may need to be refreshed a bit. So I will raise a new thread.

    I have seen some newbie's raise questions and think "how many times has that been asked". Is it not incumbent on us to help other Polkies along?

    Not sayin @clipdat is a newbie, far from it, but is just reaching out for information.

    @clipdat IMO has raised some very interesting points in this thread, we should support that dialogue. In the end, @clipdat will make the decision.

    BTW, I did jump in and got the Furman, and am happy that I did!

    Group hug everyone!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    Speaking of vibration control, I just put my Triton v3 source gear power conditioner on three Mapleshade Micropoint Brass Footers. I have been slow to do that since Shunyata says their new feet are designed to remove vibrations.

    The sound does seem different, but not sure if better. Need to hear more songs.

    fwwxelix8f1j.jpeg
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Cool. BTW @BlueFox humidity's kinda low. Watch out for static discharge! :smiley:

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/180570/static-electricity-in-the-house/p1
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.