What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 2,159
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    Corrected, Stevenson, WA.
    No idea why I keep thinking OR.

    Had someone take a look at it a couple of years ago. Did a good job, but Rolland dealing with these for decades did find some hidden issues.
    He installed remote (Wife Saver😬), upgraded op-amps, caps….
    He provides a warranty of his work on a 45 year old preamp. Who does that? Absolutely incredible!
    Says she’s good for another 30 years.
    Someone’s gonna end up with a sweet PL 4000 II when I sell my gear down the road.

    Haven’t seen the breakdown yet of all he did but he did tell me how many hours he had in it, quite a lot.

    Am way stoked to get her back into the system.
    Will now be able to start the bi-amp trials of the SDA’s.
    Have been driving the Oppo right into the amp since acquiring the Polk’s… looking forward to this too.

    Real nice person to talk to about what my goals are with this final-end-all system for us.

    Next heading to Rolland is my PL 1100 II & 1200 II.
    Goals on those two pieces are to factory specs & longevity.
    Then the rest of the Series Two gear.

    Will post some pics of our 45 year old gear driving our 37 year old speakers….
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 6,079
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    I know he's got a bunch of my money! :D
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre Upgraded with Mundorf Supremes
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,364
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    Rolland has been highly regarded for decades by many, FWIW.

    He also has many unobtainable parts for Carver gear as well. He got all of the leftover inventory.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • crickstricks
    crickstricks Posts: 1
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    I have a bit of a technical question! I have two Sansui 100 watt power amps that are bridgeable to 200 watts. I have them bridged now running the left and right channels separately. Would it be better to use them bi-amped , one running the high end and one on the low. I’m concerned about the loss of the bottom end. They are driving a pair of SDA SRS 2.3 TI’s ? They have the SL 3000 tweeters in them, 4drivers on the inside two on the outside for the sda . I remember years ago when I sold these a Polk engineer telling me to alway bi-amp them if you can.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 2,159
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    Do not bridge your amps. Cuts down on the available current your amps can provide. Even though doubling of the wattage sounds good it’s actually a backwards move.
    Very few amps can be bridged without taking a hit on current… and those that do are very expensive, sept maybe Macs using auto formers?
    If you have 8-ohm or above speakers then bridging can be beneficial.

    Your Sansui’s bi-amped would be beneficial.
    Do they have a factory rating into 4-ohm? If they have a 2 ohm rating from factory they’re power houses.

    On horizontal vs vertical bi-amping, from my recent research, vertical seems the recommended setup.
    But, if your speakers are SDA’s, ask as many folks as possible to confirm vertical is doable.
    Here on Club Polk I believe the gurus recommend an AI-1/Dreadnaught to go vertical.

    I’m researching (actively now) if vertical, bi-amp, is even possible with with my Gen 3 SDA SRS blade/blade speaksers.
    What I’ve found so far is it’s recommended to dreadnaught. That said, blade/blade SDA’s are not compatible with the AI-1/Dreadnaughts.
    Haven’t given up all hope yet 😬


    Talking to the big dogs here will be of great help as you go forward.

    Skip
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,364
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    So, Trey has been an advocate for Audiolund cables for some time now. I have heard his system(s) multiple times over the years, so when the time came to order a BNC cable for the new streaming kit? I went ahead and ordered one. Guess it's time to lose my virginity with this brand and BNC cables (always ran with SPDIF).

    They appear to be extremely well built and they look (and feel) much better in person.

    5gp7aa4mc470.png

    uwd9cdk9u8m5.png

    Tom

    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 6,079
    edited February 2023
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    crickstricks wrote: »
    I have a bit of a technical question! I have two Sansui 100 watt power amps that are bridgeable to 200 watts. I have them bridged now running the left and right channels separately. Would it be better to use them bi-amped?

    The 2.3TL's are 8 ohm. I would stick with them in mono configuration but you should be using an Al-1 or dreadnaught transformer on the SDA cable unless you (can) have the ground wire terminals tied together. You don't loose reserve amperage going mono driving 8 ohm speakers but what you gain is wattage output, you effectively double your damping factor and you increase your noise floor.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre Upgraded with Mundorf Supremes
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,949
    edited February 2023
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    I don't know about other amps, but my Crown D150 states that damping factor is reduced if it is bridged (perhaps that is what you meant to say?). That was a main reason behind my not using another one I have access to and trying that, with my 8 ohm nom. impedance 7Bs.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,559
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    I don't know how you can run the amps bridged with the SDA's, bridged amps are not common ground.
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 6,079
    edited February 2023
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    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I don't know about other amps, but my Crown D150 states that damping factor is reduced if it is bridged (perhaps that is what you meant to say?).

    Correct. My bad. Double the wattage, half the damping, increased noise floor.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre Upgraded with Mundorf Supremes
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 2,159
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    Sweetness... PL 4000 II has just arrived from Rolland 😬
    3pchd15rgjpv.jpg
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 2,159
    edited February 2023
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    Blurry shart happens when a 65 year old is dancing.
    rxsgcew00jcb.jpg
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  • stevep
    stevep Posts: 368
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    Picture depicts the excitement
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 2,159
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    🤣 I'm coming Elizabeth....
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 2,159
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    Have started a new thread about the Phase Linear above...
    "Phase linear & High-Tech Audio."

    Didn't wish to clog up this thread with my journey.
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 6,079
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    You should start a couple more... Might be fun 😜
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre Upgraded with Mundorf Supremes
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
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    Installed a pair of Canare xlr cables allowing me to run fully balanced from Ares II > B&K Ref 50 > Ashly EQ > B&K ST 125.2!

    Cambridge Audio CXC transport as source via KK DV30 digital coax.

    Sound is smooth, warm, and detailed w/o harshness. Canare xlrs are sandwiched between Monster xlrs in the signal chain.

    Thinking about going all Canare now. Really a great sounding low-cost cable.
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
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  • Reagan
    Reagan Posts: 116
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    Nice B&K! I have a B&K REF 200.2. Thinking about either selling it or giving it to my son in law.
    Speakers: Polk 1.2TL w/VR3 mods and Dreadnaught interconnects
    Amplification: ARC Reference 110 w/KT150s; Cary Audio SLP-05 w/Ultimate Upgrade
    Vinyl: VPI HW19 MK III (Heavily Modded); Origin Live Silver Tonearm; Hana ML Cart; Pete Riggle VTAF; VPI TNT Platter; SAMA; Iphono3
    Digital: Aurender N100H; Benchmark DAC1
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  • Reagan
    Reagan Posts: 116
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    What about buying Canare cable and making up Neutrik XLR connectors.
    Speakers: Polk 1.2TL w/VR3 mods and Dreadnaught interconnects
    Amplification: ARC Reference 110 w/KT150s; Cary Audio SLP-05 w/Ultimate Upgrade
    Vinyl: VPI HW19 MK III (Heavily Modded); Origin Live Silver Tonearm; Hana ML Cart; Pete Riggle VTAF; VPI TNT Platter; SAMA; Iphono3
    Digital: Aurender N100H; Benchmark DAC1
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  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
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    Reagan wrote: »
    What about buying Canare cable and making up Neutrik XLR connectors.

    Canare use Neutrik xlrs.
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,364
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    Switched out a throttleneck.

    What a huge difference.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • rebelsoul
    rebelsoul Posts: 802
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    treitz3 wrote: »
    Switched out a throttleneck.

    What a huge difference.

    Tom

    What do you mean ?
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,364
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    Streaming portion of rig. Switched out an Audioquest to a Transparent.

    The difference is literally akin to replacing an amplifier from a a low level to high end in my rig.

    When you get to a certain level of reproduction, the differences between what you have on hand that (in the past) didn't amount to much? Holy crap.

    They do now. In ALL aspects and in ways that are unfathomable. With so many things...

    More later. I am tired but can't stop listening.

    Tom



    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • Reagan
    Reagan Posts: 116
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    I replaced ALL iron in my home brew KT88 SET. For the PT, used a smaller power transformer. Lowered B+ voltage and thus lowered current going through the tubes. Much less stress on the tube. Better grid admittance. Sweeter sound. Current swings! Much longer tube life. Changed output transformers to lower impedance. Again, allows current to really swing! Lower DCR with meatier wires and lower DCR. Then, last but not least…changed my single 10 Henry choke “pi” type power supply to an “L” power supply using two ultra low DCR, ultra low Henry (800 mHy each) chokes. Added four DCLink bypass caps. This is a very fast (responsive) power supply. Everything is still burning in but can’t wait to get home to listen.
    Speakers: Polk 1.2TL w/VR3 mods and Dreadnaught interconnects
    Amplification: ARC Reference 110 w/KT150s; Cary Audio SLP-05 w/Ultimate Upgrade
    Vinyl: VPI HW19 MK III (Heavily Modded); Origin Live Silver Tonearm; Hana ML Cart; Pete Riggle VTAF; VPI TNT Platter; SAMA; Iphono3
    Digital: Aurender N100H; Benchmark DAC1
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  • Reagan
    Reagan Posts: 116
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    I bought Canare 4S11 Star Quad Speaker Cable, 14AWG for $1.40 a ft and the Neutrik Speakons were less than $6 each. I’ve never used Canare for balanced I/C but imagine they are nice. Now that I have gone rogue with SET amps, I only use single ended I/Cs.
    Speakers: Polk 1.2TL w/VR3 mods and Dreadnaught interconnects
    Amplification: ARC Reference 110 w/KT150s; Cary Audio SLP-05 w/Ultimate Upgrade
    Vinyl: VPI HW19 MK III (Heavily Modded); Origin Live Silver Tonearm; Hana ML Cart; Pete Riggle VTAF; VPI TNT Platter; SAMA; Iphono3
    Digital: Aurender N100H; Benchmark DAC1
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  • WagnerRC
    WagnerRC Posts: 2,227
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    Playing the moving game around. Its been awhile since I fired up the Joule LA300. I love my SLP05 but the Joule just takes everything to another level. Jud did know his game. Happy Happy xi2gg989wj0e.jpeg
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  • Dr_Wu
    Dr_Wu Posts: 356
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    Put the entire system through a PS Audio P10 PerfectWave regenerator. May be done. Except now I need a new rack big enough for this beast and an A21 Halo. Ideas?
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