Equipment Racks

145791018

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  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 7,124
    Yeah that’s a wobble alright
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2


    Main speakers system evolution over the years:
    Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???

    Old Gear:
    Speakers:
    BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source:
    Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification:
    Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
    Amplification:
    HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer:
    Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,504
    Clipdat wrote: »
    I thought the point of an audio rack was to reduce vibration.

    Actually, it’s purpose is to hold the gear. :).

    Vibration is a major issue in higher end, revealing systems, and a good rack should absorb vibrations, and keep it from the gear. However, that is easier said than done, as you are finding out. Good luck.

    Sometimes stuff happens. When I was putting together my Mapleshade rack some of the ‘nuts’ that go on the steel legs to support the shelves were improperly threaded, and wouldn’t go on. They sent out replacements, and all is well, but it still was an irritant at the time.

    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    Emphasis on "audio" rack, versus just a regular piece of furniture or shelving. An "audio" rack should have a design goal to reduce vibration.

    That's what I meant.
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Actually, it’s purpose is to hold the gear. :).

    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 7,124
    Maybe it's time to return
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2


    Main speakers system evolution over the years:
    Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???

    Old Gear:
    Speakers:
    BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source:
    Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification:
    Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
    Amplification:
    HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer:
    Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    I couldn't find any terms and conditions on their site in regards to returns, but on another site that sells their stuff (standsandmounts.com) their terms mention no returns on opened/assembled products - exchanges only.

    So, don't think a "return" is an option at this point. Also neither me, nor VTI is going to want to foot the bill for return shipping, that's for sure.
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Maybe it's time to return

    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,463
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.
  • verbverb Posts: 8,837
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.

    Agree.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS,Cary SLP-05 Pre,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport,Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC,Cambridge 851N streamer,Marantz SA-14 SACD,McIntosh MC300 Amp,Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Pangea Power Cables,Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's,MIT Shotgun S3 IC's,MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,504
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.

    Yes. LOL

    I was so happy with my Mapleshade rack for the stereo, I bought a five shelf, single width, rack for the HT. Spent an hour or more assembling it, and it looked wrong, and it was wrong. Tilted to the right, and wobbly. Disassembled it and then slowly put it back together. The problem was the steel poles for the shelves screw into brass footers. If they all aren’t screwed into the same depth then you get a FUBAR rack.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,463
    BlueFox wrote: »
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.

    Yes. LOL

    I was so happy with my Mapleshade rack for the stereo, I bought a five shelf, single width, rack for the HT. Spent an hour or more assembling it, and it looked wrong, and it was wrong. Tilted to the right, and wobbly. Disassembled it and then slowly put it back together. The problem was the steel poles for the shelves screw into brass footers. If they all aren’t screwed into the same depth then you get a FUBAR rack.

    I love the utilitarian, beefy look of the Mapleshade rack.
  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 7,124
    When I buy a rack I’m going to do my best to buy a Grand Prix Audio Monaco. When I grow up.
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2


    Main speakers system evolution over the years:
    Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???

    Old Gear:
    Speakers:
    BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source:
    Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification:
    Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
    Amplification:
    HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer:
    Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,382
    When you grow up Joey you want an Adona rack. I'll argue there is none better and I've got nothing in the game.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,382
    Clipdat wrote: »
    This is the wobble/oscillation I'm talking about. I'm lightly pushing on the column.


    Sledge hammer, video posted on YouTube. Buy an Adona.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    edited March 2018
    Kerry, there's literally nothing to "disassemble". It's just **** frames that sit on top of other **** frames. Nothing was "square and true" as it arrived from the factory. How am I supposed to make it "square and true" short of starting over from where it was flawed initially which is the factory worker welding them on the jig?

    It's not going to magically stop wobbling and oscillating rapidly if I adjust the frames a few millimeters. It's an inherently flawed design and it's a piece of ****. Filling the tiny section of tubes isn't going to do jack **** to add any "rigidity" to it.

    Sorry for the rant, but I'm beyond pissed off about this.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I know it's a PITA, but, I would totally disassemble and reassemble each tier, verifying as you go that they are square and true. I would get some shot and fill the tubes for added rigidity. If you have to keep it, might as well take the extra steps to make it the best it can be.

    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,463
    The end caps screw on and off, so, I'd start by taking them off and checking threads to verify that none are cross threaded. Then, after doing that, I'd set each section down on something flat and level, and check the piece for trueness. If its true I'd fill it with shot. I'd do the same for each section. If there is one that's not right I would find out where it's out and gently persuade it back to true, fill it with shot and put it back together.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    edited March 2018
    The end caps don't screw on and off, they are press fit and/or glued. The only thing with threads that screws on or off are the spikes.

    Verifying that each section is true, flat, and level would not help align the rack. This is due to the spikes and cups being off as described in earlier posts on this thread. What I actually had to do to get each spike and cap to line up is align each frame section to it's adjacent frame.

    It already required several hours of bending/persuasion of the frame pieces, in order to get it how it is now with the spikes actually sitting in their respective cups.

    I appreciate your suggestions, but this thing is beyond any sort of repair at this point. It's a piece of junk that belongs in the garbage.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    The end caps screw on and off, so, I'd start by taking them off and checking threads to verify that none are cross threaded. Then, after doing that, I'd set each section down on something flat and level, and check the piece for trueness. If its true I'd fill it with shot. I'd do the same for each section. If there is one that's not right I would find out where it's out and gently persuade it back to true, fill it with shot and put it back together.

    Post edited by Clipdat on
    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,463
    Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    edited March 2018
    From their website:

    Q: How to fill sand or metal bits?
    A: Before you screw the spikes on, fill it with sand or metal bits. Screw the spikes on and turn the unit over.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.

    Anyway, why are you getting hung up on a technicality regarding how to fill the little poles with lead shot? That's not going to suddenly save the design and make it so it doesn't wobble excessively with a turntable on the top rack. It's a lost cause.
    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,463
    Clipdat wrote: »
    From their website:

    Q: How to fill sand or metal bits?
    A: Before you screw the spikes on, fill it with sand or metal bits. Screw the spikes on and turn the unit over.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    Their website even says they screw off for adding shot. Better check again.

    Anyway, why are you getting hung up on a technicality regarding how to fill the little poles with lead shot? That's not going to suddenly save the design and make it so it doesn't wobble excessively with a turntable on the top rack. It's a lost cause.

    No offense here, but, you're an IT guy with very limited skills in the construction area. That's not me, but, paraphrasing you. I, on the other hand, design and build all levels of electrical and robotic components, and all necessary hardware to install and support, as my career. I'm not hung up on anything except telling you how, exactly, I would go about diagnosing and fixing this problem. This isn't rocket science, and, shot is a universally know product used to aid in deadening. The added weight, along with proper aligning, squaring, and plumbing, would probably make for a very nice, solid rack.

    This is the last I will comment as you appear to have gotten the answer figured out on your own and seem somewhat irritated at, what to some, seems to be a simple task. Peace.
  • verbverb Posts: 8,837
    @kharp1 if you're willing I will pay for round trip shipping from @Clipdat to you!

    I would also give it a go but work is killing me right now!

    What d'ya say @kharp1 ?

    See @Clipdat Karma may befall you as well!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS,Cary SLP-05 Pre,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport,Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC,Cambridge 851N streamer,Marantz SA-14 SACD,McIntosh MC300 Amp,Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Pangea Power Cables,Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's,MIT Shotgun S3 IC's,MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    edited March 2018
    Sorry Kerry, but even with your impressive credentials, not even you could polish this.
    kharp1 wrote: »
    No offense here, but, you're an IT guy with very limited skills in the construction area. That's not me, but, paraphrasing you. I, on the other hand, design and build all levels of electrical and robotic components, and all necessary hardware to install and support, as my career. I'm not hung up on anything except telling you how, exactly, I would go about diagnosing and fixing this problem. This isn't rocket science, and, shot is a universally know product used to aid in deadening. The added weight, along with proper aligning, squaring, and plumbing, would probably make for a very nice, solid rack.

    This is the last I will comment as you appear to have gotten the answer figured out on your own and seem somewhat irritated at, what to some, seems to be a simple task. Peace.

    Amusing suggestion, but that would be an epic waste of money.
    verb wrote: »
    @kharp1 if you're willing I will pay for round trip shipping from @Clipdat to you!

    Post edited by KennethSwauger on
    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • verbverb Posts: 8,837
    No waste my friend. I’ve reworked welded pieces before. Just need the right tools. The press on end caps will indeed come off. Etc. What do you have to lose?
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS,Cary SLP-05 Pre,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport,Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC,Cambridge 851N streamer,Marantz SA-14 SACD,McIntosh MC300 Amp,Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Pangea Power Cables,Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's,MIT Shotgun S3 IC's,MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    Might as well just directly Paypal me that $250+ that shipping would cost, so I can put it toward a legit audio rack from a reputable company with proper engineering/design, and made with accuracy and precision.
    verb wrote: »
    No waste my friend. I’ve reworked welded pieces before. Just need the right tools. The press on end caps will indeed come off. Etc. What do you have to lose?

    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,463
    You're right, it's impossible, let's move on.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    A local shop carries Salamander and Core Audio Designs, so I might go check them out in person to see about their stability.

    http://coreaudiodesigns.com/products/component-racks/
    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • verbverb Posts: 8,837
    edited March 2018
    Clipdat wrote: »
    A local shop carries Salamander and Core Audio Designs, so I might go check them out in person to see about their stability.

    http://coreaudiodesigns.com/products/component-racks/

    Very nice! I like the Salamander's as they are infinitely adjustable.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS,Cary SLP-05 Pre,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport,Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC,Cambridge 851N streamer,Marantz SA-14 SACD,McIntosh MC300 Amp,Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Pangea Power Cables,Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's,MIT Shotgun S3 IC's,MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    Do you have to level each shelf? Are the threaded posts one long continuous shaft?
    verb wrote: »
    Very nice! I like the Salamander's as they are infinitely adjustable.

    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • verbverb Posts: 8,837
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Do you have to level each shelf? Are the threaded posts one long continuous shaft?
    verb wrote: »
    Very nice! I like the Salamander's as they are infinitely adjustable.

    Yep you would. You could mark the threaded rod, but any fine tuning to get em level would require turning the nuts a bit. I believe they are a continuous shaft.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS,Cary SLP-05 Pre,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport,Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC,Cambridge 851N streamer,Marantz SA-14 SACD,McIntosh MC300 Amp,Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Pangea Power Cables,Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's,MIT Shotgun S3 IC's,MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,471
    Interesting. Well, I have a bubble level like this that I got for my TT:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0105/4542/products/ortofon-bubblelevel_1200x.jpg?v=1421686419

    verb wrote: »
    Yep you would. You could mark the threaded rod, but any fine tuning to get em level would require turning the nuts a bit. I believe they are a continuous shaft.

    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 4,680
    verb wrote: »

    .....rod.......turning the nuts a bit.....a continuous shaft.

    ^^^^^ Absolute filth. :/
  • marvda1marvda1 Posts: 3,761
    here's the adona entry level racks.
    http://www.adonacorporation.com/modular.html
    Amplifiers: MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800,Kinki Studio EX-M1
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Transport/Dac: L.K.S MH-DA004, North Star Design USB dac32, Cayin Venus cd-100i,
    Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkI
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic 2, Analysis Plus Black Mesh Oval 9,
    Cerious Technologies Graphene Extreme
    Interconnects: Analysis Plus Solo Crystal Oval, Analysis Plus Copper Oval-In Micro,
    Cerious Technologies Graphene Extreme
    Power Cables by: Cullen Cables, 6sons Audio, Swiss Cables
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