Building a pair of Polk Monitor 10's

Added cross bracing to the fronts. I don't think it needs it but why not. This is far beyond the originals as far as rigidity.

westmassguy wrote: »

Man, those are gorgeous. It would almost be a sin to put a grill on them.
BTW, the originals had a front to back brace between the two woofers, starting at the bottom of the woofer opening, running vertically to just below the tweeter opening.
A roll of Dacron was stuffed horizontally behind the tweeter. A second roll, cut like a pair of pants, was inserted behind the woofer openings, with a flap at the bottom.

Very good info. You all are on top of keeping me straight. That was my next question.

Today is final assembly! It is getting stressful. Good stress but this is where all the hard work comes together, so far it looks like our diligent on making accurate cutting pays off.

Biscuit cutting on the tops, ready for glue.

Sanded and test fitting components. There are a couple decisions left. Do I route the tweeter to sit flush, do I chamfer the edge. I like how the walnut frames the oak... routing a perfect gusset for the tweeter is risky. Hence why I was looking for a RDO-194 router template... I'm still trying to figure that one out...

I see two different options. I could route out 3/8" deep recess just outside the edge of the tweeter. But the face of the RDO is contoured, not flat like the peerless so it looks odd sitting in a recess.

Or I could route to a lip just under the edge of the tweeter and set the tweeter in the recess like a cookie jar lid. Unfortunately there is less than an 1/8" reveal. This would have to be a very accurate cut.

I use a collar on a router to follow an inside profile of a template. The profile is the same shape but larger to compensate for the distance from the collar to the bit. This is an accurate cut. I believe I would have to have a template made on a 3 axis router table.

I could do free hand routing in the center and use sharp wood chisel and wood carving tools.

Still working on it. Or I could mount them as is...

westmassguy wrote: »

You can surface mount the tweeter. I've done it. You need to grind off the lip on the back of the plastic bezel. It will still be raised about an 1/8".

Didn't think about sanding down the lip on the tweeter... I like that idea...

deucekazoo wrote: »

Those look real nice! The corners are perfect and hard to do. Can't wait to see a finish on them and for the grain to pop. What are you going to use?

The mitered corners are very difficult, especially biscuiting accurately on a 45! One thing I have learned from working with MDF, you need to take caution in tightening clamps. MDF will crush.