Come on Will this ain't your first rodeo. I bet you could rig those tweeters using hand tools after a few adult beverages and blind folded no problem. Who you kidding. Great workmanship so far. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Although sight is but one of the aspects of those beuts.
"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass
Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S-Tubes add soul!
You can surface mount the tweeter. I've done it. You need to grind off the lip on the back of the plastic bezel. It will still be raised about an 1/8".
Didn't think about sanding down the lip on the tweeter... I like that idea...
Those look real nice! The corners are perfect and hard to do. Can't wait to see a finish on them and for the grain to pop. What are you going to use?
I'm with you, I want to see these pop. There are all sorts of finish options. I like to keep it simple and see the wood without stains and color. I use a straight tung oil, rubbed on in several coats. You can finish from a dull mat to a french gloss. Just depends on what you like. I'm shooting for a satin to semi gloss finish. It brings out the grain and darkens to a wet look.
Just started the first coat. I like what I'm seeing.
Those look real nice! The corners are perfect and hard to do. Can't wait to see a finish on them and for the grain to pop. What are you going to use?
The mitered corners are very difficult, especially biscuiting accurately on a 45! One thing I have learned from working with MDF, you need to take caution in tightening clamps. MDF will crush.
Come on Will this ain't your first rodeo. I bet you could rig those tweeters using hand tools after a few adult beverages and blind folded no problem. Who you kidding. Great workmanship so far. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Although sight is but one of the aspects of those beuts.
Thank you! Beverages after the ripping is done, a prerequisite to woodworking, especially the sanding.
HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer SC-1222k AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One
I like to keep it simple and see the wood without stains and color.
Me too, I don't like using stain and it drives me nut when people stain hard wood.
Let the natural color come out.
Sorry, but nothing makes the grain of wood pop like a dye and a film coat. New walnut is cold, it needs to be warmed up.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
I like to keep it simple and see the wood without stains and color.
Me too, I don't like using stain and it drives me nut when people stain hard wood.
Let the natural color come out.
Sorry, but nothing makes the grain of wood pop like a dye and a film coat. New walnut is cold, it needs to be warmed up.
The type of finish has everything to do with how the wood looks and I am not talking about stain. I once ruined (well not ruined but not the look I was going for) a pre-amp box I made. I used Bloodwood and maple for the box. At that time I did not know finishes too well and used a poly to finish it. The blood wood turned brown. If you know Bloodwood it has a nice deep red to it.
From this
While true that the type of finish and the sheen have an effect on the final appearance, it's not everything. Poly should not have caused that to happen. What brand, wiping or brush, how old was it?
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
I like to keep it simple and see the wood without stains and color.
Me too, I don't like using stain and it drives me nut when people stain hard wood.
Let the natural color come out.
Sorry, but nothing makes the grain of wood pop like a dye and a film coat. New walnut is cold, it needs to be warmed up.
To each their own... walnut can be a bit cold but to that point almost any wood grain can be a bit harsh... With the right dye and film coat you can make poplar pop...
While true that the type of finish and the sheen have an effect on the final appearance, it's not everything. Poly should not have caused that to happen. What brand, wiping or brush, how old was it?
Not sure about the brand name but it was a quality brand, not a no brand name from Walmart. It was a brush on and I think it was water based.
I know what you are saying, I was not expecting that color either. I just know certain finishes go deep into the wood to bring out the beauty. I never had Walnut look cold.
Now back to speaker building. Let see some more pictures.
Polk S10, S8, S4
Polk RT8
Polk Monitor 7s
Working on getting SDAs
There's the problem. Water borne finishes have gotten better, but still aren't there. Not unlike fluorescent compared to incandescent lighting. I do not use water borne finishes, won't even consider them.
I never had Walnut look cold.
The walnut in willwilly's pics is cold.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
Will, I would be remiss if I didn't say your craftsmanship is top notch.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer SC-1222k AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One
Well a bit of bad news, using one of my MW6503'S in the shop to test fit holes several times, being passed around with visitors... even having the JB weld treatment on the top plate, the driver locked up.
I see the logic in the JB weld technique, but make sure you do it on the top and bottom side of the magnet... Mine were done on just the top edge of the magnet.
So if anyone has a good 6503 laying around, I'm interested.
I have yet to abandoned a resemblance of a budget, or I would buy four new drivers.
So while I'm waiting for the last coat to dry, this is a sample I put together of 1" MDF. I have been researching vinyl wraps to see what is available. These wraps can be pricey, and make any wood worker gag, but...for a speaker, handled properly, vinyl may be an acceptable option. Did I say that out loud.
Comments
Polk RT8
Polk Monitor 7s
Working on getting SDAs
H9
Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
Just started the first coat. I like what I'm seeing.
The mitered corners are very difficult, especially biscuiting accurately on a 45! One thing I have learned from working with MDF, you need to take caution in tightening clamps. MDF will crush.
Thank you! Beverages after the ripping is done, a prerequisite to woodworking, especially the sanding.
Me too, I don't like using stain and it drives me nut when people stain hard wood.
Let the natural color come out.
Polk RT8
Polk Monitor 7s
Working on getting SDAs
I'm offended...
Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Denon 2910, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's/ RTA8t
Me too...
Sorry, but nothing makes the grain of wood pop like a dye and a film coat. New walnut is cold, it needs to be warmed up.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
Like it is with most trades, it sure pays to have the right tools. Beautiful work there.
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
The type of finish has everything to do with how the wood looks and I am not talking about stain. I once ruined (well not ruined but not the look I was going for) a pre-amp box I made. I used Bloodwood and maple for the box. At that time I did not know finishes too well and used a poly to finish it. The blood wood turned brown. If you know Bloodwood it has a nice deep red to it.
From this
To this
Same wood, different finishes.
Polk RT8
Polk Monitor 7s
Working on getting SDAs
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
To each their own... walnut can be a bit cold but to that point almost any wood grain can be a bit harsh... With the right dye and film coat you can make poplar pop...
Not sure about the brand name but it was a quality brand, not a no brand name from Walmart. It was a brush on and I think it was water based.
I know what you are saying, I was not expecting that color either. I just know certain finishes go deep into the wood to bring out the beauty. I never had Walnut look cold.
Now back to speaker building. Let see some more pictures.
Polk RT8
Polk Monitor 7s
Working on getting SDAs
There's the problem. Water borne finishes have gotten better, but still aren't there. Not unlike fluorescent compared to incandescent lighting. I do not use water borne finishes, won't even consider them.
The walnut in willwilly's pics is cold.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Denon 2910, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's/ RTA8t
Speakers: Harbeth: 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Pienza, Certaldo, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S15, RTA 15tl, RTi12; Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, Legato Unum, Legato Semis, Legato Duo; Emerald Physics CS-2.8; Klipsch KLF-20
Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
Integrateds: Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: BoX, Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
Sources: AURALiC Aries, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
Cabling: Wireworld
TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
I see the logic in the JB weld technique, but make sure you do it on the top and bottom side of the magnet... Mine were done on just the top edge of the magnet.
So if anyone has a good 6503 laying around, I'm interested.
I have yet to abandoned a resemblance of a budget, or I would buy four new drivers.
Thanks in advance.
I link to the vinyl product would be nice.
Because I am The Pumpkinking
A Kind Word Is An Easy Gift To Give
vvividvinyl.com