I like to keep it simple and see the wood without stains and color.
Me too, I don't like using stain and it drives me nut when people stain hard wood.
Let the natural color come out.
Sorry, but nothing makes the grain of wood pop like a dye and a film coat. New walnut is cold, it needs to be warmed up.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
I like to keep it simple and see the wood without stains and color.
Me too, I don't like using stain and it drives me nut when people stain hard wood.
Let the natural color come out.
Sorry, but nothing makes the grain of wood pop like a dye and a film coat. New walnut is cold, it needs to be warmed up.
The type of finish has everything to do with how the wood looks and I am not talking about stain. I once ruined (well not ruined but not the look I was going for) a pre-amp box I made. I used Bloodwood and maple for the box. At that time I did not know finishes too well and used a poly to finish it. The blood wood turned brown. If you know Bloodwood it has a nice deep red to it.
From this
While true that the type of finish and the sheen have an effect on the final appearance, it's not everything. Poly should not have caused that to happen. What brand, wiping or brush, how old was it?
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
I like to keep it simple and see the wood without stains and color.
Me too, I don't like using stain and it drives me nut when people stain hard wood.
Let the natural color come out.
Sorry, but nothing makes the grain of wood pop like a dye and a film coat. New walnut is cold, it needs to be warmed up.
To each their own... walnut can be a bit cold but to that point almost any wood grain can be a bit harsh... With the right dye and film coat you can make poplar pop...
While true that the type of finish and the sheen have an effect on the final appearance, it's not everything. Poly should not have caused that to happen. What brand, wiping or brush, how old was it?
Not sure about the brand name but it was a quality brand, not a no brand name from Walmart. It was a brush on and I think it was water based.
I know what you are saying, I was not expecting that color either. I just know certain finishes go deep into the wood to bring out the beauty. I never had Walnut look cold.
Now back to speaker building. Let see some more pictures.
Polk S10, S8, S4
Polk RT8
Polk Monitor 7s
Working on getting SDAs
There's the problem. Water borne finishes have gotten better, but still aren't there. Not unlike fluorescent compared to incandescent lighting. I do not use water borne finishes, won't even consider them.
I never had Walnut look cold.
The walnut in willwilly's pics is cold.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
Will, I would be remiss if I didn't say your craftsmanship is top notch.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer SC-1222k AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One
Well a bit of bad news, using one of my MW6503'S in the shop to test fit holes several times, being passed around with visitors... even having the JB weld treatment on the top plate, the driver locked up.
I see the logic in the JB weld technique, but make sure you do it on the top and bottom side of the magnet... Mine were done on just the top edge of the magnet.
So if anyone has a good 6503 laying around, I'm interested.
I have yet to abandoned a resemblance of a budget, or I would buy four new drivers.
So while I'm waiting for the last coat to dry, this is a sample I put together of 1" MDF. I have been researching vinyl wraps to see what is available. These wraps can be pricey, and make any wood worker gag, but...for a speaker, handled properly, vinyl may be an acceptable option. Did I say that out loud.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
Somehow I knew I was in for it posting a picture of my system...
I
There is some relevance to the comments, but it's only because we want everyone to achieve maximum enjoyment. If you are there, don't fret.
Just some are more apt to Criticize than Advise! But that aside. Exemplary workmanship! I've enjoyed following your thread,looking forward to seeing the finished pair! Btw if your interested in starting another project,yesterday in the for sale section GEPPY1 listed a selection of parts for sda2b's that are definitely worthy of your level of craftsmanship,,,[upgraded crossovers and tweets- worth consideration]
I don't know if this is proper but it is a great deal easier than painting MDF.
One complement I have for this forum is the high res pictures. You can zoom up on these and see the most minute detail. I see things in the pictures I don't see, even with my glasses on.
The next discussion will be Monitor 7's. I have most of the parts. These will most likely get new drivers and RDO 198's. I have original crossovers that will get new caps, and a original pair of PR's.
Look at me throwing around speaker talk like I know what I'm doing...
Off to the fabric store for polyfill. I feel so uncomfortable in that store...
The next discussion will be Monitor 7's. I have most of the parts. These will most likely get new drivers and RDO 198's. I have original crossovers that will get new caps, and a original pair of PR's.
Look at me throwing around speaker talk like I know what I'm doing...
Off to the fabric store for polyfill. I feel so uncomfortable in that store...
If they have bonded Dacron, it will work better than Polyfil. It's what Polk used originally.
Comments
Me too...
Sorry, but nothing makes the grain of wood pop like a dye and a film coat. New walnut is cold, it needs to be warmed up.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
Like it is with most trades, it sure pays to have the right tools. Beautiful work there.
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
The type of finish has everything to do with how the wood looks and I am not talking about stain. I once ruined (well not ruined but not the look I was going for) a pre-amp box I made. I used Bloodwood and maple for the box. At that time I did not know finishes too well and used a poly to finish it. The blood wood turned brown. If you know Bloodwood it has a nice deep red to it.
From this
To this
Same wood, different finishes.
Polk RT8
Polk Monitor 7s
Working on getting SDAs
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
To each their own... walnut can be a bit cold but to that point almost any wood grain can be a bit harsh... With the right dye and film coat you can make poplar pop...
Not sure about the brand name but it was a quality brand, not a no brand name from Walmart. It was a brush on and I think it was water based.
I know what you are saying, I was not expecting that color either. I just know certain finishes go deep into the wood to bring out the beauty. I never had Walnut look cold.
Now back to speaker building. Let see some more pictures.
Polk RT8
Polk Monitor 7s
Working on getting SDAs
There's the problem. Water borne finishes have gotten better, but still aren't there. Not unlike fluorescent compared to incandescent lighting. I do not use water borne finishes, won't even consider them.
The walnut in willwilly's pics is cold.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Denon 2910, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's/ RTA8t
I see the logic in the JB weld technique, but make sure you do it on the top and bottom side of the magnet... Mine were done on just the top edge of the magnet.
So if anyone has a good 6503 laying around, I'm interested.
I have yet to abandoned a resemblance of a budget, or I would buy four new drivers.
Thanks in advance.
I link to the vinyl product would be nice.
Because I am The Pumpkinking
A Kind Word Is An Easy Gift To Give
vvividvinyl.com
Village Idiot of Club Polk
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
And they deserve a new gear family
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
Might I suggest a pair of Klipsch on Emotiva gear?
All things aside, I agree with Skip.
Village Idiot of Club Polk
Just some are more apt to Criticize than Advise! But that aside. Exemplary workmanship! I've enjoyed following your thread,looking forward to seeing the finished pair! Btw if your interested in starting another project,yesterday in the for sale section GEPPY1 listed a selection of parts for sda2b's that are definitely worthy of your level of craftsmanship,,,[upgraded crossovers and tweets- worth consideration]
One complement I have for this forum is the high res pictures. You can zoom up on these and see the most minute detail. I see things in the pictures I don't see, even with my glasses on.
Look at me throwing around speaker talk like I know what I'm doing...
Off to the fabric store for polyfill. I feel so uncomfortable in that store...
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards
"And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
A roll sitting behind the tweeter, and just a few staples to hold it in place...