Building a pair of Polk Monitor 10's
Comments
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Weak, old plastic with new seal bends and one hole cracked. Larry's ring for the crossover?
What are you using for the seal?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Really, I have plenty of fill.motorhead43026 wrote: »Stock M10'S do not have Dacron in the PR compartment. Also it is rolled up behind the mids.
Will, motorhead is right. You want one roll behind each mid that does not enter into the PR area. Best to rip out what you've got in there and start again. Parts Express carries what you need.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I explained earlier where the Dacron goes. Since you didn't put in a center brace between the woofer openings, you can do two rolls, side by side. The rolls should be long enough to go from the bottom of the woofer openings to the very top behind the tweeter. Tack the rolls on either side to keep them in place. The bottom of the cabinet should be empty other than the crossover. An additional damping option, is Black Hole 5 or Sonic Barrier under the Dacron, behind the woofers.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
How bout this, a roll behind the tweeter horizontally, and two rolls vertically each behind the drivers. Nothing around the pr.
Will I am -
Black Hole 5 Discontinued but I have seen that modification somewhereWill I am
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afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
1/8" tape from parts expressWill I am -
Finishing the JB weld job with clear weld on the bottom edge. Top edge was already done with the gray JB Weld.
Will I am -
How bout this, a roll behind the tweeter horizontally, and two rolls vertically each behind the drivers. Nothing around the pr.
Will, read westmassguy's description of where and how the material goes.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
That's what I did...westmassguy wrote: »Man, those are gorgeous. It would almost be a sin to put a grill on them.
BTW, the originals had a front to back brace between the two woofers, starting at the bottom of the woofer opening, running vertically to just below the tweeter opening.
A roll of Dacron was stuffed horizontally behind the tweeter. A second roll, cut like a pair of pants, was inserted behind the woofer openings, with a flap at the bottom.
Will I am -
Ah, ok. This is what I saw, "Since you didn't put in a center brace between the woofer openings, you can do two rolls, side by side. The rolls should be long enough to go from the bottom of the woofer openings to the very top behind the tweeter."
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Just thinking out loud here. It's been a long time since I've seen the inside of a Monitor 10, but I do recall what the inside of a Monitor 11 looks like and based on what westmassguy said about the center brace they seem to be the same layout. So, I believe Polk used the vertical center brace to help keep the backwaves of the two mids as separate as possible.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Well then I have my crossover in the wrong place which is possible since I didn't ask...
My cross over is between the tweeter and drivers. Putting in a baffle isn't an option. I could add a baffle glued to the front but only extend 3" towards the back.Will I am -
I'd be more worried about the proximity of the inductors on the crossover to the magnetic fields coming from the drivers.Well then I have my crossover in the wrong place which is possible since I didn't ask...
My cross over is between the tweeter and drivers. Putting in a baffle isn't an option. I could add a baffle glued to the front but only extend 3" towards the back.
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Not me, inverse of distance cubed. Until I see data of significant changes in induction based on real world applications, I'll stick with basic physics. I'm not denying there is an effect, just not a significant effect...Will I am
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If I am not mistaken all the Monitor's have their crossovers as a part of the binding cup which is on the bottom back center of the speaker, behind the passive.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Yup, that's not where I have mine... just the opposite, oh well...Will I am
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Ok, let's talk black hole baffles? I'm concerned with not having the front to back piece between the drivers. Unfortunately I have the crossover too high so the front to back baffle can only go as high as the mid points of the drivers.
I have seen adding block hole panels behind the drivers is a significant improvement.
Has anyone done this to 10's?
Will I am -
I don't know how I missed this build, but the cabinets are outstanding! Very nice looking work indeed.VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
VA 2 Channel Focal Electra 926 speakers, Pass Labs X150.5 Amp, Eastern Electric MiniMax Preamp (Tutay mods), Eastern Electric Minimax CDP (Scott Nixon mods), Music Hall mmf 5.1 Turntable, Parks Audio Budgie Phono Pre , Audioengine B1 streamer, MIT S3 IC's / MIT Shotgun S3 Speaker Cables / PS Audio power cables
Noggin Schiit Valhalla, Pangea, Phillips Fidelio X1, Polk UF8000
Polk SDA1c modded
Polk CRS+ 4.1TL modded (need veneer)
Polk SDA2BTL (fully modded)
A/L 1000VA Dreadnought Canare 4s11 SDA cable
SACD Marantz DV8300
Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD
Yamaha YP-D6
Soundcraftsmen PCR800
Audible Illusions L1 Preamp
Vincent MFA based Cocci Tube Preamp
Pho-700 Phono Pre
Signal Cable Silver Resolution IC's -
I have been researching the internal "brace" on the 10's. It appears after looking at video of the inside, this is more of a brace than a baffle. I'm going to add this brace that will go from the back to the front between the drivers to above the pr. My brace will be made from 1" MDF 3" wide and 10" long.Will I am
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What about the crossover and the binding cup hole?afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
I'll be under it. The brace won't go up to the tweeter since the cup is there.Will I am
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I have been researching the internal "brace" on the 10's. It appears after looking at video of the inside, this is more of a brace than a baffle. I'm going to add this brace that will go from the back to the front between the drivers to above the pr. My brace will be made from 1" MDF 3" wide and 10" long.
Ok, that makes sense as the Monitor 11 was an improved Monitor 10 whereas Polk realized the combing issue inherent to having two mids side by side playing the same frequencies and corrected that in the 11's.
As for the magnet/inductor issue, add bucking magnets to the mids and tweeter to cancel out the magnetic field, problem solved.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Since one of my MW6503'S locked up and I'm not ready to learn how to repair properly, I have spoken with Polk for a new set. Polk won't have stock until June.
I have a 6510 for a temporary replacement. I have seen the specs and understand the differences.
Resistance is the same. My only question is, any problem with running a 10 and 03 together minus sound quality.Post edited by willwilly onWill I am -
Prepping my 6510 for installation. This looks to be in good condition. I cleaned the cone and face of the speaker with a cleaner degreaser. I know if I mention what brand I used we'll start a whole new conversation.
Just don't use alcohol or petroleum distillant as I'm sure this would remove the coating or damage the surround.
I'm epoxying in the magnet, both sides, and adding dampening on the cage. New foam seal and punched screw wholes.
By the way, cut the end off the q-tip and just use the stick to stir and apply the epoxy. The cotton just makes a mess of things.
Will I am -
Arg! I have been testing and the left tweeter stopped working. It is in the cross over. So, I'm going to have to diagnosis the problem. Anything obvious I need to look at first?Will I am
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Loose connector.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I just looked at your crossovers again. I believe you may have the Caps wired to the wrong points. It appears the 12uf below the shunt inductor, is connected where the 34uf is supposed to be. The 34uf is connected on one side where the 12uf should be, and the other side is connected to the wrong point as well.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Fuse! Simple... This is the speaker with the 6510 and 6503 drivers, probably not a good idea. Waiting for new drivers from polk.Loose connector.
But now I'm reviewing my crossovers per westmassguy ' s discovery. Let me map it out again. I was pretty clear on the wiring, had an original crossover sitting next to me during prefitting.
Will I am
