Building a pair of Polk Monitor 10's

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Comments

  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    rmpolk wrote: »
    I think he's referring to rounding the cabinet's inside edges to smooth out the air flow as I read that in the link he provided earlier that included box design [ btw Thanks for that it was a good read] Just curious on this topic -would it be at all detrimental to use a thin veneer on the front face to provide a all wood look?


    Yes! That's what I mean.

    I'm not a fan of that look but it would be interesting with a contrasting wood color. Walnut cabinet and chamfer with a maple face? (with figure)



    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    Question. If I rearrange the components like a 7 starting at the top working down, driver, tweeter, driver, PS, narrow the width to M7's width, keep the depth, but adjust the height of the case to match volume of a M10, wouldn't the design resonance stay the same.

    Of course many bad things could happen but what do you know will happen?
    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    Like my super seven picture posted previously...
    Will I am
  • Toolfan66Toolfan66 Posts: 14,201
    The ideas are looking good, let's see some wood getting cut..
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,377
    willwilly wrote: »
    Like my super seven picture posted previously...
    I actually like that idea. You could do an MTM arrangement, and either reverse the phase of the Tweeter, or offset it 45 degrees from the centerline of the two woofers to mitigate lobing. the offset version should be made in mirror images.
    These all fall under the category of Franken-Polks of course.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    The ideas are looking good, let's see some wood getting cut..

    This weekend! I'm so looking forward to it! Still looking for 1" MDF locally, the right veneer and contact cement, and waiting for my RD0-194 tweeters.

    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    willwilly wrote: »
    Like my super seven picture posted previously...
    I actually like that idea. You could do an MTM arrangement, and either reverse the phase of the Tweeter, or offset it 45 degrees from the centerline of the two woofers to mitigate lobing. the offset version should be made in mirror images.
    These all fall under the category of Franken-Polks of course.

    How would that effect the PR's performance with drivers not equal distance or is that not an issue?
    Will I am
  • Toolfan66Toolfan66 Posts: 14,201
    willwilly wrote: »
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    The ideas are looking good, let's see some wood getting cut..

    This weekend! I'm so looking forward to it! Still looking for 1" MDF locally, the right veneer and contact cement, and waiting for my RD0-194 tweeters.

    Your drivers shipped out today..

  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,377
    willwilly wrote: »
    willwilly wrote: »
    Like my super seven picture posted previously...
    I actually like that idea. You could do an MTM arrangement, and either reverse the phase of the Tweeter, or offset it 45 degrees from the centerline of the two woofers to mitigate lobing. the offset version should be made in mirror images.
    These all fall under the category of Franken-Polks of course.

    How would that effect the PR's performance with drivers not equal distance or is that not an issue?
    It's called fluid coupling, air being the fluid. No difference as long as the internal volume is the same.

    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    edited March 2016
    The expensive parts arrived today.04hpmahx76kb.jpg
    Will I am
  • heiney9heiney9 Posts: 24,088
    No difference for volume and coupling, but big difference on imaging, lobing, etc. One shouldn't just place drivers willy nilly in the front baffle.

    A car still rolls down the street w/ 1 wheel in front and 3 in back. But probably better to have 2 in front and 2 in back........a poor analogy, but you get what I'm saying.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    heiney9 wrote: »
    No difference for volume and coupling, but big difference on imaging, lobing, etc. One shouldn't just place drivers willy nilly in the front baffle.

    That's what I'm thinking? But since M10's have issues with that anyway, does it get worse if I set the drivers vertically over the PR like a 7?

    Will I am
  • heiney9heiney9 Posts: 24,088
    I would imagine so, you'd have to design a new crossover. How tall are you making the cabinets so that all those drivers can fit vertically? As soon as you increase the size of the cabinet then you have to use your speaker software to compensate. You are using speaker software?

    It's nothing like a Monitor 7 if you do that. M7's us a single driver, not two.

    Yes, it will be much worse.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
  • heiney9heiney9 Posts: 24,088
    I think you're focusing too much on the side by side drivers in the M10. All the comments are compared to the M5 and M7. In and of itself, it's not ideal, but it's still pretty damn good.

    Don't overthink, build the M10 clones and enjoy them.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    edited March 2016
    heiney9 wrote: »

    Don't overthink, build the M10 clones and enjoy them.

    H9

    That's what I'm doing. I like hearing you say M10's are "pretty damn good" finally. They are damn good for what they are. Just playing around with ideas.
    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    edited March 2016
    b4w08tjshgch.jpg
    So I had a little bit of time this evening to start the crossovers. I started by stripping one of the boards including the inductor since it came loose from the old hot glue. I reinstalled the inductor with new hot glue and a tie strap.
    So my first question. Isn't the red post positive and the black post negative? If so, than my eBay crossovers had them reversed according to the schematic.
    Also, the schematic I'm following is slightly different than my eBay crossovers which I believe someone has mentioned these crossovers are for the old peerless tweeters and I'm using RD0-194's.
    I have seen other M10 updated crossovers with the same components I'm using. Some are far neater installations than others so I need to do a little searching of this forum to find a the best. One I remember seeing had a two tier approach.
    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    6fxbfwkx701y.jpg
    The buisness side.
    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    pebzkem8cos1.jpg
    Inductor installed.
    Will I am
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,377
    willwilly wrote: »
    So I had a little bit of time this evening to start the crossovers. I started by stripping one of the boards including the inductor since it came loose from the old hot glue. I reinstalled the inductor with new hot glue and a tie strap.
    So my first question. Isn't the red post positive and the black post negative? If so, than my eBay crossovers had them reversed according to the schematic.
    Also, the schematic I'm following is slightly different than my eBay crossovers which I believe someone has mentioned these crossovers are for the old peerless tweeters and I'm using RD0-194's.
    I have seen other M10 updated crossovers with the same components I'm using. Some are far neater installations than others so I need to do a little searching of this forum to find a the best. One I remember seeing had a two tier approach.

    I believe this is what you're referring to:
    58g1oofeowek.jpg
    rqphm8gn89gg.jpg
    gct7yb84hyfi.jpg

    The Red Binding Post is +/Positive, Black Post -/Negative. The internal wiring, is Black +/Positive, White -/Negative. The wiring under the circuit board could be different. I've seen them use all white, with tape marking the black leads. Just trace the circuit.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • heiney9heiney9 Posts: 24,088
    Have you figured a way around the x-overs you have since they are from an earlier pair of M10's that used the peerless tweeter. You will have to address that issue. I'm pretty sure there is a simple solution, I just don't recall.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    That is exactly what I want. That is the cleanest update I have seen. Thank you very much. I'm ordering new stand-offs today.

    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Have you figured a way around the x-overs you have since they are from an earlier pair of M10's that used the peerless tweeter. You will have to address that issue. I'm pretty sure there is a simple solution, I just don't recall.

    H9

    I'm using this schematic.

    RD0-194 Tweeters
    MW6503's
    10" Polk PR
    Sonicap and Mills Caps and Resistors...

    lk9t31oq2jud.jpg

    I'm using fuse rather than the switch...



    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    Do I recess the tweeter in the front panel?
    Will I am
  • heiney9heiney9 Posts: 24,088
    I'd jumper the fuse, unless you think you will overdrive your amp. I jumpered the fuse on my 5B's and didn't look back.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
  • Toolfan66Toolfan66 Posts: 14,201
    I agree, the fuse, and or poly switch= crap IMO.. Just power them with a good amp, watch the volume, don't look back...
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    I'm powering with a Deno AVR5700 so I think I'll keep the fuse for now. 140 W
    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    Well my MDF doesn't come in until Wed so I played around with the PR'S this evening. I cut out 50 mil sound deadening material to cover the cages. 2mgj1xpn555h.jpg
    02nhasdys0a3.jpg
    3dxnmfje88u6.jpg



    Will I am
  • willwillywillwilly Posts: 185
    rmpolk wrote: »
    If it helps I took some measurements of my 10a's with the speakers ...BTW the outside dimensions of the finished box are- [ 40.4x71.1x11cm deep ] the cabinet board thickness is 1,5cm

    11 cm deep. That doesn't sound right. Should be near 12.5 inches?
    Will I am
  • Toolfan66Toolfan66 Posts: 14,201
    Impressive layout...
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