SDA SRS new to me
Comments
-
Thanks, guys.
There are so many discussions...and I've read them all...but appreciate, Ray, you backtracking politely repeating your findings, often, even though you've already documented it. I'm w/you and prefer jumpers.
I'll have to look at the Path's and Mundorf's. Knowing you, Trey, they probably aren't cheap!
I'm in the detail camp and my gear is tubed, so I'm able to adjust if needed.
Skip, hope my questions help you out. One thing in my favor vs. yours is the SRS XO's vs the 1.2's are mo' expensive to upgrade, so I understand the pain, and know you were trying to do your upgrades as frugal as possible. BUT, I get the sense you won't be happy if you settle in the short-term.
Lots of experience typed above, so, IMO, pay as you go, do in stages if needed and do it right the first time.
Oh yea the questions are helping a shart-ton.
Have been reading all I can to absorb as much info as possible and do the once & done approach.
So many have experimented, tried different components, different approaches to mechanical mods and posted their findings.
This is invaluable to us that are just starting our SDA SRS journey.
These are my end all speakers and appreciate the efforts of all the pioneers…
DK, F1, JayCee, VR3, pitdogg & all the rest I’ve been reading up on.
Where I find myself…..
My speakers are a little too laid back for my liking. Wanting to pull out a little more detail, definition & accuracy.
Now’s the time to install components to eek out that last bit of performance.Thanks, guys.
There are so many discussions...and I've read them all...but appreciate, Ray, you backtracking politely repeating your findings, often, even though you've already documented it. I'm w/you and prefer jumpers.
I'll have to look at the Path's and Mundorf's. Knowing you, Trey, they probably aren't cheap! I'm in the detail camp and my gear is tubed, so I'm able to adjust if needed.
Skip, hope my questions help you out. One thing in my favor vs. yours is the SRS XO's vs the 1.2's are mo' expensive to upgrade, so I understand the pain, and know you were trying to do your upgrades as frugal as possible. BUT, I get the sense you won't be happy if you settle in the short-term.
Lots of experience typed above, so, IMO, pay as you go, do in stages if needed and do it right the first time.
Appreciate the questions all are asking, helps a lot.
Started looking at those Path resistors. Very interesting.
Have a question about those VR3….
Saw they recommend hooking the ground lead to the negative at the binding post?
Where do you hook yours up for ground? -
Never mind.
Haven’t gotten that far yet and see JayCee is talking about that….. -
Well dang it.
Didn’t want that large thing posted I was typing in last night with a great frosty beverage buzz!
Thinking out loud again. -
DarqueKnight wrote: »@DarqueKnight. Hey, Ray. Do your jumper or resist in the polyswitch location?
Jumper. Didn't like the sound of a resistor in place of the polyswitch. Polk recommended getting rid of them anyway. The 3.1TL doesn't even have them. I discussed my polyswitch/resistor replacement/jumper replacement evaluation here:
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/128258/resistor-replacement-for-the-sda-srs-1-2tl-polyswitch
My original "Polyswitches Are Nasty" thread from way back in 2008.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/73796/sda-polyswitches-are-nasty/p1
I’m with this ^
I had ordered three values up to the .5 ohm. Sent them back.
Had ordered them to test vs the jumper.
Like what the jumper brings with no reason to change. Even at high volume levels just crisp and clean.
I believe good amplification helps when evaluating this.
Along with enough power to not get close to any chance of clipping.
Reading DK’s evaluation of the poly switch, and just a jumper, was the reason I started with the jumper… -
On to reading the rest…..
-
I'm still looking for a roundtuit
Jesse, if you never find that elusive round-tuit I call dibs…. 😬 -
Yes, I connect all of the drain wires to the ground of the tweeter circuit
The heat sinks would need to be glued on, they come with an adhesive strip and two pins on the bottom to align them
I probably wouldn't recommend the mundorf if you are using the gimpod boards
VR3….
Are heat sinks a requirement if one has more than 1k watts available into the SDA SRS’s?
-
Iirc the power handling is 3 watts without a heat sink so... Probsbly not- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
-
😳
No ****? -
Yep... Basically they are designed to work with a heat sink- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
-
Their 10w too?
-
Only the ultra needs a heat sink- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
-
Gotcha....
-
Liking what I'm reading on the Path resistors. Nothing but great reviews on DIY, Audiogon and the others.
On to dimensions to see if I can configure a way onto my SDA SRS board.
Lots to think about here... -
Path audio is an extremely good resistor, my current go to- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
-
I don't think you'll find anyone who has heard my SDA and non-SDA rigs with Mills that will say there's anything veiled about the sound.
That said, I am not in the ultra detailed camp. I much prefer a pleasant musical sound, one that sounds like live music. Of course, upstream gear, cables, etc. absolutely play a part in what reaches your ears.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I don't think you'll find anyone who has heard my SDA and non-SDA rigs with Mills that will say there's anything veiled about the sound.
That said, I am not in the ultra detailed camp. I much prefer a pleasant musical sound, one that sounds like live music. Of course, upstream gear, cables, etc. absolutely play a part in what reaches your ears.
^ That's the neatest part of this hobby and, along with the Club Polk site, the fact that everyone's sharing what they found by restoring & upgrading these Polk speakers.
There will be some that want to restore the speakers to original by the original designer and builders... Matthew Polk, the Engineers and what not.
There'll be those that would like to upgrade to get them sounding better.
And, there'll be those that want to push the envelope to see what can be obtained from these speakers.
Neatest part about this, when upgrading, is one can adjust what they're doing according to what they like to hear individually out of the speaker they fell in love with.
Had it not been for all those that started experimenting in the beginning none of this would be possible.
Supposedly my 18 gauge solid copper wire's to be delivered tomorrow. Then I can start lengthening the leads on the 130uf caps. Gonna put them at the L Brackets location, you's suggested, below the pc board.
Only issue will be our weather determining wether I receive that wire.
Yesterday they predicted -70 with wind chill, in Lusk, WY outside Casper, early morning tonight. We're supposed to get a 40 degree drop in temp within hours. Bad part is the 60-70 mph gusts that's coming with it
Think they're already started closing I-80
Off to the Buckhorn Bar to have some frosty beverages.
May be house bound for a bit depending on how bad this storm turns out...
-
Gonna try the first two cap’s install Christmas weekend.
Question on break in time…
Is it strictly by x amount of hours or can the time be shortened by an increase in volume/energy going thru the caps?
Searching brought up something regarding this from Black Gate.
Has anyone experience with shortened break in time?
-
Volume has nothig to do with, leave them on low volume with a radio as source when not home or just 24/7. They will sound horrible then good then horrible. After awhile they will settle down an wala suddenly you get drawn into the music and bliss has happened. Mine took a couple of months and even after that I thought they were still getting better.
-
I find 250 hours is the magic number and it's noticeable
I listen loud all the time and doesn't seem to make it any faster- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
^ Tanks
-
The 18ga copper wire actually made it in before the big storm.
Got the two 130 caps out and will be installing the Solen’s Christmas Sunday.
Only thing not done, mechanical upgrades, is sealing the top caps.
Need to pull the 2 top MW’s in each speaker to get the 8 rubber washers installed.
Was a tight fit to get the lock washers on with the flat & rubber but, with a little persuasion they install fine.
With that lock washer I won’t have to worry about the top or bottom cap coming loose over time.
-
Reading DarkNights posts about Polk’s suggested upgrades….
Saw they recommended a more transparent grill cloth.
Have you’s tried this?
If so, did it improve the sound?
Do y’all recommend this?
If there’s no improvement I’d like to keep the originals. -
Factory grill cloth here. I see no need to change, if I think it's a distraction I remove the grills.
-
quote="pitdogg2;c-2709699"]Factory grill cloth here. I see no need to change, if I think it's a distraction I remove the
That's what I've been doing and will carry on. -
-
^ Bahahaaaaa.....
-
Any update/s on cap replacement, burn-in impressions etc?
Been following your thread and hitting like buttons.
And grills are for people with cats.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
^ Hey xschop,
I'm still at this point... https://youtube.com/shorts/Uzc6XLmM5Mc?feature=share -
Found that my rubber washers weren't sealing my speakers as I thought. The rubber washers sucked into the holes of the studs and did not seal. Used too small a washer under my lock nuts.
Went into the left speaker and re-did my sealing of the caps.
These are the parts I used...
Did a leak test by pushing the passive, after thinking I was done with the physical mods, and was getting the MW's going back into position after about 1-1/2 seconds.
Having read where others were getting 3-5 seconds I had to go back in.
After installing the above parts I'm now at that 3-5 seconds, whew.
Still have to do the washers on the right speaker.
Then I can get to the caps.
Also selling a couple O pieces of gear to fund the rest of the caps...
