SDA SRS new to me

1810121314

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    The polyswich has a resistance of .5 ohms. If you don't replace it with a .5 ohm 10 or 12 watt resistor the top end gets brighter, which is not a good thing.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • That small gold round piece behind the 12.0J 250v cap is the polyswitch yes?

    k1y2pqntdo2k.jpeg
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 22,123
    Yes that is it. They can also be blue
  • ^ ok.

    Another question, looking at these 4 blue caps… one is facing a different direction. What would be the reason for that?
    + & - reversed at that location?

    Aren’t caps supposed to be oriented a certain way dependent on which is the inner wrap & which is the outer wrap?


    fh3w63oq7isg.jpeg
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    edited November 2022
    Reason for asking so I can install correctly when going back with the new caps.

    I’m not very good with orientation between looking at a schematic and trying to transfer that to understanding a pcb layout…… 😳

    I’m a parts replacer with mad soldering skills 🤣
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 22,123
    edited November 2022
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    ^ ok.

    Another question, looking at these 4 blue caps… one is facing a different direction. What would be the reason for that?
    + & - reversed at that location?

    Aren’t caps supposed to be oriented a certain way dependent on which is the inner wrap & which is the outer wrap?


    fh3w63oq7isg.jpeg

    They are bi-polar electrolytic caps. Shut off your OCD for a bit. I've never worried about any of the "inner/ outer" wrap nonsense when it comes to caps. I'm not about to go and de-solder and 180* them to TRY and hear a difference. If it made a huge difference cap producers one would think put a symble as to which way the signal needs to flow. Only 1 or 2 cap producers actually have a red and black tail to orientate the cap to signal flow. If you use those then by all means follow the flow :smiley:

    I will say you are going to need to get real creative, that 130uf cap is going to be multiple caps or one REAL BIG cap. It will take a monster amount of space.
  • Excellent….

    Going at the crossovers one step at a time.

    Gonna do the bypass of the polyswitch first to see what that brings.

    That’s what’s skull f-ing me on the cap replacement gig right now.
    It’s really overwhelming at this point to think how to go about getting those large caps installed.

    Thinking of replacing like for like, for the caps, in changing out those 36 year old caps to start with. It’ll give me a little confidence before going ball’s deep with installing soda can sized caps 😳

    Even thinking about not un-soldering the wires, to the drivers, and doing it in place.
    Must get the gumption to get started. Don’t want to screw this up.
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 918
    Solen is the only one I know of that make that 130 if cap, I used them in my sda2a's, but I wouldn't use them anywhere else.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    Gonna do the bypass of the polyswitch first to see what that brings.

    Why do I bother!?!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Polyswitch out and jumper installed on the right speaker. Dang, I’ll be…. Inductor lead fell off while removing the crossover. No worries as it was obvious where it went. It’s a little shorter now but ok.

    Have resistors coming in various ohmages to try in place of the jumper, up to 0.5.
    Will move them in & out to see how they affect the sound of the tweeters to decide what sounds best to us.
    Then on to caps….. 😳





  • First impression of the change from the polyswitch to jumpering....
    Definitely more treble. Nothing objectionable yet but have limited time listening. Could be source material as I've only listened to Taj Mahal?
    Will throw some rock on tomorrow.
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 12,712
    Hence the resistor to pad down :)
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
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    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • skipshot12 wrote: »
    First impression of the change from the polyswitch to jumpering....
    Definitely more treble. Nothing objectionable yet but have limited time listening. Could be source material as I've only listened to Taj Mahal?
    Will throw some rock on tomorrow.

    You can put a meter on the polyswitches and see what they ohm out at. When they get tripped multiple times they can acquire a permanently raised resistance.
    George / NJ

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  • skipshot12 wrote: »
    First impression of the change from the polyswitch to jumpering....
    Definitely more treble. Nothing objectionable yet but have limited time listening. Could be source material as I've only listened to Taj Mahal?
    Will throw some rock on tomorrow.

    You can put a meter on the polyswitches and see what they ohm out at. When they get tripped multiple times they can acquire a permanently raised resistance.


    Didn't think of that. I reflowed the two solder points for the switch, cut the leads below the body then soldered the two leads together. Threw the switch away.
    Will do the measurement on the switch when I do the left speaker.

    I like a little more detail in the sound of my speakers.
    Think I'll end up towards the lower end of those resistor values, from what I'm hearing with just the jumper installed.

    The wife likes to play music quite a bit lower than me.
    It has a nice detailed top end at the lower volume.

    Testing with music playing louder will determine where to go from here.
    That's where I found the SL2000's to show their nasty side.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 22,123
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    ^ ok.

    Another question, looking at these 4 blue caps… one is facing a different direction. What would be the reason for that?
    + & - reversed at that location?

    Aren’t caps supposed to be oriented a certain way dependent on which is the inner wrap & which is the outer wrap?


    fh3w63oq7isg.jpeg

    They are bi-polar non-polar electrolytic caps. Shut off your OCD for a bit. I've never worried about any of the "inner/ outer" wrap nonsense when it comes to caps. I'm not about to go and de-solder and 180* them to TRY and hear a difference. If it made a huge difference cap producers one would think put a symble as to which way the signal needs to flow. Only 1 or 2 cap producers actually have a red and black tail to orientate the cap to signal flow. If you use those then by all means follow the flow :smiley:

    I will say you are going to need to get real creative, that 130uf cap is going to be multiple caps or one REAL BIG cap. It will take a monster amount of space.

    Fixed it.

  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,426
    edited November 2022
    Redid my 1.2tl XO's back in ~2013 and, as I recall, the prevailing advice was to try the polyswitch removal w/o and if found to be too hot move from and closer to a .5 resistor. Also, since then, my 3.1tl's, 1C's and 4.1tl CRS+'s. Like you, I preferred a bit of top air and believe my gear choices (more laid back and not aggressive ie. Parasound, Anthem tubed pre and now BHK tubed pre and amp) aided this decision. To date, I've never felt the need to add a resistor. Since you're in tinker mode and having fun w/this, I'd encourage experimenting wit and witout (Philly reference) while it's easy to do. YMMV.
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streamer: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    ^ ok.

    Another question, looking at these 4 blue caps… one is facing a different direction. What would be the reason for that?
    + & - reversed at that location?

    Aren’t caps supposed to be oriented a certain way dependent on which is the inner wrap & which is the outer wrap?


    fh3w63oq7isg.jpeg

    They are bi-polar non-polar electrolytic caps. Shut off your OCD for a bit. I've never worried about any of the "inner/ outer" wrap nonsense when it comes to caps. I'm not about to go and de-solder and 180* them to TRY and hear a difference. If it made a huge difference cap producers one would think put a symble as to which way the signal needs to flow. Only 1 or 2 cap producers actually have a red and black tail to orientate the cap to signal flow. If you use those then by all means follow the flow :smiley:

    I will say you are going to need to get real creative, that 130uf cap is going to be multiple caps or one REAL BIG cap. It will take a monster amount of space.

    Fixed it.

    Did see two 130’s while doing the polyswitch.
    Are those 130uf’s in the tweeter or mid circuit?

    Saw Solen makes 130uf 400v caps.
    Did a short search to see if I could parallel a couple of 65’s but didn’t see much.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 22,123
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    skipshot12 wrote: »
    ^ ok.

    Another question, looking at these 4 blue caps… one is facing a different direction. What would be the reason for that?
    + & - reversed at that location?

    Aren’t caps supposed to be oriented a certain way dependent on which is the inner wrap & which is the outer wrap?


    fh3w63oq7isg.jpeg

    They are bi-polar non-polar electrolytic caps. Shut off your OCD for a bit. I've never worried about any of the "inner/ outer" wrap nonsense when it comes to caps. I'm not about to go and de-solder and 180* them to TRY and hear a difference. If it made a huge difference cap producers one would think put a symble as to which way the signal needs to flow. Only 1 or 2 cap producers actually have a red and black tail to orientate the cap to signal flow. If you use those then by all means follow the flow :smiley:

    I will say you are going to need to get real creative, that 130uf cap is going to be multiple caps or one REAL BIG cap. It will take a monster amount of space.

    Fixed it.

    Did see two 130’s while doing the polyswitch.
    Are those 130uf’s in the tweeter or mid circuit?

    Saw Solen makes 130uf 400v caps.
    Did a short search to see if I could parallel a couple of 65’s but didn’t see much.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/55888/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-amp-more-stereo-dimensional-array-sda#latest
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    edited November 2022
    After looking at the schematics for cap values I have a question for you’s before I decide on which caps to purchase.

    Which are the most important caps to spend cash on?
    Which are least important?
    What about a cap to ground?
    Post edited by skipshot12 on
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 47,944
    edited November 2022
    High frequency circuit caps are supposed to matter more, but IME they all do.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 22,123
    edited November 2022
    The 130uf caps you will need to put on a board in another location and run wire to there respected location if you go film caps. They will be too large and too many to fit as it is now. You will have very few options for that location. Yes they all matter IMHO
  • Thanks.

    Pulled the left crossover, removed the polyswitch and got a 0.2 ohm reading.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 608
    edited November 2022
    Crossover back in, time to give it a listen to see how it balances out with the right speaker.

    Dang pit, you ain’t a kidding on the size of replacement film caps. Looking at the dimensions of various manufacturer’s caps.
    Wonder if a couple may fit between the board & the plate?
    That may help a bit.

    Don’t know if I’m quite ready to remote mount at this time. Thought of it makes my grey stuff hurt 😬
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Yes that is it. They can also be blue

    Poly on the left was blue.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 26,677
    I won't be able to find a picture, but I did a repair for a guy and I removed the inductors on the mounting plates, drilled holes and secured the 130uf to the aluminum mounting plates for the inductors for the Sda srs. Solen 130uf will fit, one per side
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 26,677
    Nvm, found a pic.. You can kind of tell what's up in the photo

    5q4gu2bgtd79.jpg
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • ^ Nice, thank you.

    Your picture answered one of my questions… wasn’t finding a 92uf cap and was wondering if a 91 was ok 👍
    Other question…. Did you put the 130’s between the plate & pc board?
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 26,677
    Yes you can see them in the pic, they are strapped to the inductor mounts
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.