SDA SRS new to me

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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,189
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    No bout a doubt it, those are thinner than any of my gaskets. What are they compressed to, like 1/64"? As long as they make a seal you should be still good to go.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    Hey skip, can you get a good pic of that 6503 spider?
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
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    skipshot12 wrote: »
    According to the original owner no driver's were ever taken out.

    Pulled one MW... this is the only ruler I have to show thickness. It's @ the 32nd scale.
    Here's what the gasket looks like.

    Maybe it's just compressed?

    de6dphzj6127.jpg

    hrhgux7yze3i.jpg

    Dude, it's supposed to be paper thin. Geesh!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,279
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    That's what my gaskets look like and I bought my SDA's new in 1987
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    F1 & invalid, excellent on it's supposed to be that thin...
    That means I don't have to reseal all my drivers.

    Sweet.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    xschop wrote: »
    Hey skip, can you get a good pic of that 6503 spider?

    Will do...
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    Gardenstater wrote: »
    No bout a doubt it, those are thinner than any of my gaskets. What are they compressed to, like 1/64"? As long as they make a seal you should be still good to go.

    They are way thin.
    Wanted to get y'alls take on it to make sure they're still good to seal.

    I didn't think to do the passive push in pressure test after I finished the left speaker to make sure it's still a good seal.
    If I were a little more experienced at doing this I would have made sure that each driver went back in it's original position and oriented exactly as they came out.

    I'm probably overthinking this but, I want to make sure I do this right the first time.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,189
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    skipshot12 wrote: »
    F1 & invalid, excellent on it's supposed to be that thin...
    That means I don't have to reseal all my drivers.

    Sweet.

    Yep I'd say you should be fine so long as it passes the leakdown test where you push and hold the passive in and time how long it takes for the MWs to return to home position. If it is too fast then you have a leak.

    You might keep those drivers in the same positions and orientations from which they came.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    Pic of the spider...

    02a1n9b250qx.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    skipshot12 wrote: »
    Pic of the spider...

    02a1n9b250qx.jpg

    Thank you. Looking at the 6511 spider in comparison, does it look the same as the 6503? Or does the 6503 have thicker threads in the weave?
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,189
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    Those convolutions look pretty deep compared to my 6500s. My NOS 1999 MW6500 has a much tighter weave than my earlier 79-83 ones do.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    Was serious question. It's the last bit of info needed in all my notes to see how Polk made the vintage drivers. The 6503 pic looks like it's the thinner weave, but wanted to confirm. Thanks Skip
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    You're welcome.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    Wife just texted me that she’s hearing music drop out while she’s listening to her music…
    Thinking it’s the breakers dropping the tweeters?

    Couldn’t have come at a better time.
    Just finished the last passive.
    Now on to the crossovers.

    Fingers crossed that’s the issue.
    Hoping it’s not the Oppo.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
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    No breakers, they are polyswitches.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    👍
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    Dang, just as all was going well...
    Found an odd noise in one of my passives when I went to install it. There was this very slight scratching noise when I went to pick it up.
    Started moving the driver to find the noise was coming from the spider and cone area. Looking very closely while, moving it in and out, I could see about 2/3 of the spider sliding up and down where it glues to the cone. Old hard glue has separated from the cone but still attached to the other 1/3.

    Did some searching and it looks like those that have trekked before recommend a glue called Allene's Original Tacky.

    Think I'll pull the other passive and take a look just to be sure.

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,585
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    That is the correct glue.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    ^ Excellent.
    Glued this morning. Will check to see if I did an ok job.
    I’m always so hesitant I’m not doing it right, we’ll see.

    I actually thought of trying jb weld.
    Then got to thinking about weight and the metallics 😳
    Found Alene’s @ wall-blast and went with tried & true.

    Pulled the other passive and all is well.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    The trick is to push the PR or MW cone forwards while adding a bead of glue, then slowly relax back to position ensuring the torn spider edge/lip is fully coated front-to-back.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    Since I had my passives out to glue the spider to the cone….
    Thought about sealing the end caps.
    Decided to try rubber fender washers under the flats.
    With the lock washers it’s a little work getting the nut started but, if you get the rubber fender washer as far down on the threads as possible it helps.

    My thinking is it seals on the wood and also around the threads making a nice air-tight seal.
    Also the ability to take apart later is nice.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,585
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    Armacell....under a flat washer
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
    edited October 2022
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    Glueing of the spider went well.
    Moving in and out there's no more scratching sounds. The spider is not moving from the cone at all. Looks like an even glue job all the way around.

    Could really notice how the spiders have relaxed after all these years in the same position.
    Turned both 180 degrees for the reinstall.

    Will have to pull the passive in a few months to make sure she holds.
    I definitely push the speakers hard so it'll be a good test of the repair.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Armacell....under a flat washer

    That's a good idea.
    Bet it's much easier than the rubber fender.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,585
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    skipshot12 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Armacell....under a flat washer

    That's a good idea.
    Bet it's much easier than the rubber fender.

    Worked very well for me. Hot drill bit made a smaller hole that would stretch over the bolt. Used the adhesive side to adhere to the washer.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    Off topic question y’all….
    Can I start a new discussion/thread from my phone?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,585
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    yep that RED + sign that is in the way....PUSH IT.
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    yep that RED + sign that is in the way....PUSH IT.

    Tanks
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,439
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    yep that obnoxious RED + sign that is in the way....PUSH IT.

    Fixed it
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,005
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    Now that my mechanical work is done on the speakers it’s time to look into the crossovers, and I have a question.

    1st question is the polyswitch.
    What’s the difference in removing and jumpering vs removing and adding a resistor?

    Any difference in sound between the two?

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