What did you do to your stereo rig today?

18687899192152

Comments

  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,883
    edited April 2020
    @daddyjt: wow! 5 stars! LOVE ❤️ the minimalist rack frame😊 etc!

    Janet would not like the “gym bleacher” look: protrudes too far into a major flow of foot traffic but that appears EASY to change.

    I must download your build pics before they get too tough to locate. Perhaps copy/paste to a separate thread adding more details. BTW: your shelf sizes & vertical spacing DOES work😊

    Side note: sub - make & model?

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged” Mids - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Sig -> LFE & CC; 4 Audio Pro Evidence -> “Corners”
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 15,952
    The fact that you kept those sides open helps with your sound stage and imaging. nice job Mark! That fits the room and gear nicely.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~~ I had found excellence until I heard an ANK DAC ~ ~ The best way to enjoy digital music reproduction is to never listen to good analogue reproduction ~
  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 1,819
    treitz3 wrote: »
    The fact that you kept those sides open helps with your sound stage and imaging. nice job Mark! That fits the room and gear nicely.

    Tom

    Thanks Tom - I appreciate the kind words. Even though it is for the HT setup, I do use the room for what little multi-channel music listening I do. Getting the center up as high as it is made a big difference too, vs elevating the front of it.
    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 1,819
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    @daddyjt: wow! 5 stars! LOVE ❤️ the minimalist rack frame😊 etc!

    Janet would not like the “gym bleacher” look: protrudes too far into a major flow of foot traffic but that appears EASY to change.

    I must download your build pics before they get too tough to locate. Perhaps copy/paste to a separate thread adding more details. BTW: your shelf sizes & vertical spacing DOES work😊

    Side note: sub - make & model?

    Tony

    Yea, my wife roller her eyes, but she knows better than to ask, lol.

    Sub is a Velodyne DD18. It is flat-out ridiculous - I actually have two, but one is WAY more than enough in that room!
    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,883
    edited April 2020
    To chime w/treitz3 @daddyjt: the wide open design allows easy mega air circulation😊
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged” Mids - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Sig -> LFE & CC; 4 Audio Pro Evidence -> “Corners”
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 4,475
    And with a little of modification you could use a mechanics creeper to slide behind it for wiring!
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
  • BlueBirdMusic
    BlueBirdMusic Registered User Posts: 1,811
    ^^^^^
    @audioluvr that is really clever and funny.

    @daddyjt you should tell your wife you are ordering one.
    Harry / Marietta GA
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,674
    Currently debating a preamp upgrade, either stay with the RLD-1 or try a few others and compare as this stock unit is 21 years old and still performs admirably. This is the only component in the current chain that hasn't been messed with and is also the oldest.

    So I removed the lid and looked around to get myself into trouble. I figured I would try a small DIY project and replace one of the main outputs solid wire leads as well as the CD input.

    Perhaps when it was new, the solid leads were what was best for the performance of this preamp. By solid leads, I'm referring to these.

    60b9se99hfft.jpg

    Best part of this hobby is to experiment so I had some 15.5 ga Cardas Litz laying around and while not the ideal gauge for this application, I had to give it a try.

    The stock leads are about 22-24ga so the 15.5 won't stay but will for this week.

    I have some Jupiter solid silver 23 ga, Mundorf silver /gold 23ga, and also more Cardas 23.5 ga on order to try as well.

    The 15.5 won't go through the hole in the board but I have a good bond for now, sorry, no pics.

    I let everything warm back up and was PLEASANTLY surprised at the increased detail. Initial observations are the vocals seem to further seperate from the instruments with a darker background in between.

    This needs more time before I can make a ruling, as well as the current time of day which won't allow me to crank it up.

    Will keep you posted.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 3,160
    edited April 2020
    These diamond points for a dremel type tool work great for me for drilling holes in PCB. Just pick the right one for the wire you are using by measuring with a caliper or micrometer. I would think that the 15.5 litz should be best and there is no worry of skin effect.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

    k6adz6y0ycdb.png
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • GlennDog
    GlennDog Posts: 2,646
    These diamond points for a dremel type tool work great for me for drilling holes in PCB. Just pick the right one for the wire you are using by measuring with a caliper or micrometer. I would think that the 15.5 litz should be best and there is no worry of skin effect.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

    k6adz6y0ycdb.png

    I really hate to say it, but that’s my next Made in Wuhan purchase
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
    Source PSA PWT into NSD Supremo
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Center Salk HT2C
    Pre Cary SLP-05
    Wires WW & MIT
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 16,412
    Today my stereo rig play the L200 Polk's Legends. I have been running them for 2 days now and I'm digging them to a point.
    My 2 channel rig right now is a Rotel RX1052 in silver, a Sony DVPNS-9000ES SACD player, Pananmax 5100 Surge, Rocket 33 speaker wire single ended, Makenzie RCA Stereo cables for the SACD to the Rotel which are audioquest for those who don't know those model numbers.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,674
    These diamond points for a dremel type tool work great for me for drilling holes in PCB. Just pick the right one for the wire you are using by measuring with a caliper or micrometer. I would think that the 15.5 litz should be best and there is no worry of skin effect.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

    k6adz6y0ycdb.png

    Thanks for the link! This is surely an option, as I don't need to enlarge the hole too much more. :*

    Will have to try the others first though.
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 1,841
    GlennDog wrote: »
    These diamond points for a dremel type tool work great for me for drilling holes in PCB. Just pick the right one for the wire you are using by measuring with a caliper or micrometer. I would think that the 15.5 litz should be best and there is no worry of skin effect.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

    k6adz6y0ycdb.png

    I really hate to say it, but that’s my next Made in Wuhan purchase

    Then don't do it. Make it a priority to buy American. Wuhan has given you plenty of time to do the research.
    FWIW I used a very small drill on a dremel when I had to enlarge a hole on a circuit board.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 3,160
    There needs to be some sort of law passed by Congress to make it easier to distinguish and search for Made in USA vs Made in China products. Maybe even point of origin prefixes for the SKUs or something, I don't know.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,504
    There needs to be some sort of law passed by Congress to make it easier to distinguish and search for Made in USA vs Made in China products. Maybe even point of origin prefixes for the SKUs or something, I don't know.

    why don't we just stop doing business with any U.S business that deals with China ;)
    see how far that will get you.
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: L.K.S MH-DA004, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables by: Argento Organic Reference, Triode Wire Labs, Swiss Cables
    Wireworld Spaceport
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 3,160
    That's a thought too of course. My point is that in order for those so inclined to try to buy american to do so easily (because people are lazy), there needs to be some facilitation involved, so that people don't have to spend hours doing research. In your case, there would have to be a law passed that it was up front in some way, how much of a companies business was associated with China. I guess you are saying that you wouldn't even buy a made in america product from harbor Freight, even if you could possibly find one?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,504
    edited April 2020
    what I was saying was tongue and cheek, where do you draw the line? this is a worldwide economy, you say buy American, great but what if that American company uses electronics made in china or the Korean company that the American company buys from uses Chinese parts in their products. see how it would be impossible to find 100% "American".

    here's one for you, let's say you were looking to buy a pair of speakers from Salk and they have a speaker, model a and model b, both the same exact speaker.
    model a is made in the u.s. and model b is made in china, the only other difference is model a is $2500 more, which would you buy?

    Sorry for derailing the thread, my last thoughts on the subject. o:)

    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: L.K.S MH-DA004, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables by: Argento Organic Reference, Triode Wire Labs, Swiss Cables
    Wireworld Spaceport
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 3,160
    Very true. This topic definitely deserves its own thread (which will get taken down by Alma :) in short order). I did recently buy a MADE IN AMERICA gas can for $20 instead of the other one for $10 o:)
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 3,160
    gmcman wrote: »
    These diamond points for a dremel type tool work great for me for drilling holes in PCB. Just pick the right one for the wire you are using by measuring with a caliper or micrometer. I would think that the 15.5 litz should be best and there is no worry of skin effect.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

    k6adz6y0ycdb.png

    Thanks for the link! This is surely an option, as I don't need to enlarge the hole too much more. :*

    Will have to try the others first though.

    Yes since it is all about the joy of experimentation you might as well! These diamond points were just something that I already had on hand for enlarging some cracks in my exterior stucco, prior to injecting two part epoxy, so since fiberglass is very abrasive and should really be drilled or ground with carbide or diamond tools or the like rather than high speed steel I figured I might as well use them. The pointed ones worked very well for drilling brand new holes and especially for rectangular shaped holes for cable ties to secure the capacitors in my crossover mods for my 7B's.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 21,738
    My Leaf blower is made in Arkansas by way of Sweden
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 3,160
    edited April 2020
    Nice! Make and model? Any sound improvement? What do you use.....bananas or spades or bare wire?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 11,447
    Very nice @butterbean, rock on! Good for you for being open minded and willing to experiment. A lot of people never venture beyond that regular 12-14ga wire unfortunately.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 11,447
    edited May 2020
    I don't have a ton of experience with speaker cable, but this was a pretty interesting experience for me: https://theaudiobeatnik.com/review-acoustic-zen-sartori-speakers-bring-music-to-life/

    I went from a $120 pair to a $~900 pair.
  • Thorton
    Thorton Posts: 1,324
    8g7xyqs55fjn.jpg
    Added a subwoofer to the pontoon boat. Definitely helps out the low end and driving capabilities of the 6-1/2 inch speakers. Actually sounds pretty good right out of the box. Can’t wait to hear the difference when I have it in the water in about 1-1/2 weeks.
    _____________________________________________________________________________________________
    Ethernet Filter: GigaFOILv4 with Keces P3 LPS
    Source: Roon via ethernet to DAC interface
    DAC: Bricasti M1SE
    Pre/Pro: Marantz AV8805
    Tube Preamp Buffer: Tortuga TPB.V1
    Amp1: Nord One NC1200DM Signature, Amp2: W4S MC-5, AMP3: W4S MMC-7
    Front: Salk SoundScape 8's, Center: Salk SoundScape C7
    Surround: Polk FXIA6, Surround Back: Polk RTIA9, Atmos: Polk 70-RT
    Subs: 2 - Rythmik F25's
    IC & Speaker Cables: Acoustic Zen, Wireworld, Signal Cable
    Power Cables: Acoustic Zen, Wireworld, PS Audio
    Room Treatments: GIK Acoustics
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 4,475
    butterbean wrote: »
    I can only imagine what high end wire does!

    What I like about good cables is you don't have to have the volume very high to hear micro-details.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,674
    edited May 2020
    I removed the recent trial of Cardas litz 15.5 ga wire from the CD input and one of the outputs of my RLD-1 preamp, and swapped in some Mundorf silver/gold 24ga solid wire.

    I let it play overnight and it may need more time, but I did expect this wire to possibly be brighter. While I can easily tell it's "brighter", just not in a fatiguing way. The overall clarity from maybe 1kHz on up, is noticeably improved and the extensions and sparkle are evident but not overwhelming to the point it sounds like a treble knob was turned.

    The only drawback as of now is the slight absence of lower midrange weight and soul. I really do like it, the cymbals, snare, both have that slight airy extension. Also the electric guitar sounds much more accurate. The overall upper frequencies are very clean, detailed, and smooth. Maybe it needs more time, but I feel the smaller gauge of the wire are likely attributing to the lower frequencies being affected, not sure though, but had to try it.

    Parts Connexion has the 18ga and I may need to try that as well.

    I have a few more wires to use and next up is 21ga Cardas Litz. The 15.5 is too large at the moment to use without modifying the PCB slightly.
  • Dr_Wu
    Dr_Wu Posts: 254
    I've been enjoying new for me WW Silver Eclipse speaker cables. This past week, thanks to our old friend Skip, I was able to add High Fidelity's Reveal interconnect. Another big step toward the ideal sound I've been chasing.

    The CRS+4.1TLs continue to amaze. I was starting to doubt that they were capable of the clarity I want. No more. Now, I'm thinking that a touch of silver in their internal wiring might pay big dividends.