What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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  • Tony MTony M Posts: 9,827
    :)B)

    udadnqixb21g.png
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,601
    edited January 21
    Interesting youtube video.....Does Polyfill Make a Box Bigger? - Tested and Revealed

    In the motorhead world: there’s no replacement for displacement.

    I’m a bit disappointed Polyfill seems to make less of a difference than I was lead to believe. YMMV w/the driver higher Qts versus lower Qts. Could help some w/BSC for a mid-woofer or fudge if the closure is a slightly undersized.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 7,014
    hochpt21 wrote: »
    Man cave, huh.... did the wife pick that color? ;):p

    Lol, no I did. Got the color code off a former member a few years back who had it for his room. It’s more burnt orange than it looks. ;)

    I like the energy.

    ai7fhlhz2vde.jpeg

    What Taylor is that? Nice room by the way...maybe someday when my kids are grown and I’m as old as @tonyb i might get one 😂
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Musical Fidelity A308; Marantz SA 14S1; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology SM450; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor350; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology promonitor 800; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • hochpt21hochpt21 Posts: 5,338
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    hochpt21 wrote: »
    Man cave, huh.... did the wife pick that color? ;):p

    Lol, no I did. Got the color code off a former member a few years back who had it for his room. It’s more burnt orange than it looks. ;)

    I like the energy.

    ai7fhlhz2vde.jpeg

    What Taylor is that? Nice room by the way...maybe someday when my kids are grown and I’m as old as @tonyb i might get one 😂

    It’s an entry level...Taylor 110. Circa 2013. It certainly sounds good enough for my plinking around. Haven’t played much the last 10 years or so.

    Thank you for the compliments on the room. If I made one smart decision in my life...when we bought this house 8 years ago, I negotiated with the wife. She got the master closet to herself and I got the 4th bedroom for whatever I wanted.
    __________________________________________________
    2 Channel
    Turntable - VPI Scout 1.1/Ortofon 2M Blue
    Amplification - Parks Audio Budgie, Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 Deluxe
    Speakers - GoldenEar Triton 2
    __________________________________________________
    7.1 Home Theater
    Denon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Polk CS350ls, LS90's, FXi3's, RC60i; SVS PC Ultra; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"
    __________________________________________________
    Man Cave
    Turntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado Gold
    Integrated Amplifier - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II
    CD: Cambridge Audio
    Speakers - LSiM 703; SDA 2A; Epos Epic 2
    __________________________________________________
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 4,425
    hochpt21 wrote: »
    Thank you for the compliments on the room. If I made one smart decision in my life...when we bought this house 8 years ago, I negotiated with the wife. She got the master closet to herself and I got the 4th bedroom for whatever I wanted.

    I can relate. When we moved into our current house I got the 4th bedroom as my music room. Up until about a month ago it had bed in it, but it’s finally gone. Closet space stinks in this house, so I’ve got clothes hanging in three different closets, but it’s worth it.

    The room looks really nice. Though I can’t play, I wouldn’t mind a cheap guitar or two for decoration. They add to the room IMO.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,794
    edited January 22
    jdjohn wrote: »
    I posted a pic of this Phase Linear 400 power amp from my dad's collection a couple of months ago.

    It didn't pass the dim-bulb-test on one channel, so I started researching whether it was worth fixing. These Bob Carver designed amps have a following of enthusiasts, and White Oak Audio https://www.whiteoakaudio.com/ actually has a few different upgrade kits for the PL400 and PL700 amps which improve upon the original design.

    Having no money invested in this unit, I decided to buy a kit and re-do the main board as well as upgrade the power supply caps.


    I'm just about ready to do the final R&R on this, so wish me luck! I'll have to remove and re-install the outputs as part of the graduated start-up process. I'll be testing each of the output transistors (all 16 of them) as I remove them and prepare to reinstall, so it is entirely possible that some will be bad. Here's one side of the outputs (there are 8 more on the other side):


    Good luck! Those prices on the website seem pretty reasonable too. I'm going to be attempting my first electronics repair, which will be my Martin Logan Dynamo Subwoofer. It blows the fuse and I hope it is just something with the power supply board but may extend to the amplifier board...who knows. If I can fix it I will have one for each channel.

    Could you explain the dim bulb test? Thanks!
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,212
    edited January 22
    You use a old incandescent light bulb to test and if done correctly it glows the bulb instead of smoking the gear.
    Poor mans variac.

    https://antiqueradio.org/dimbulb.htm
  • jdjohnjdjohn Posts: 1,878
    Yes, and we had a little discussion about here: https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/2528821#Comment_2528821
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,794
    edited January 22
    Thanks! Reading up now. I think the trick will be to come up with the proper wattage bulb that will indicate to me that their is a short still, without blowing the fuse. I have my known good ML Dynamo to determine minimum wattage that allows the thing to start playing, but that might not be the right one for testing the other one that I have attempted a repair on, to determine if there is still a problem without going through fuses.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 1,586
    OK cool. Looking forward to your further impressions. Not to be a wiseguy but there's no "backwave" at the sides either. I think it's more a matter of having the BH5 in the vicinity of the drivers because every surface of the back of the cone becomes a point source for a sound wave, in other words there are sound waves radiating out in all directions and bouncing all over the place within the cabinets and that can cause interference with the proper primary motion of the cones. I think the other key is amount of BH5 relative to total cabinet volume, along with keeping the area around the passive free of it. Just my 2c.

    Thank you sir for giving me the kick in the a$$ to take them apart one more time for the install of side pieces of bh5. The side strips are in now and yes it was a worthwhile and significant overall improvement. Also while I had things apart I cleaned and treated all the speaker connectors. They were tarnished quite a bit but they're shiny now.

  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 3,146
    So on the I'd plate it will state either watt usage or amps (x120v). If it says it uses 480w of power then you need to use a 500w bulb.
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,794
    audioluvr wrote: »
    So on the I'd plate it will state either watt usage or amps (x120v). If it says it uses 480w of power then you need to use a 500w bulb.

    The lower the wattage bulb you use the more protective it is and 500W is way way up there. The subwoofer doesn't normally draw anywhere near that maximum rating, especially when powered up into standby mode. Respectfully I do not think that would be what I would want to use for troubleshooting a short circuit that is blowing fuses.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 3,146
    If it's blowing input fuses it's short circuiting. Period. The dim bulb test is for a device that has none.
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,794
    edited January 22
    Regardless, 500W is too much because that bulb has a much lower resistance than a 50W bulb, for example. In a voltage divider, the higher resistance has the greater voltage drop. It may turn out to be more useful for when I get the circuit repaired to the point where it no longer blows fuses, but there is still something wrong. But I'm sure that 500W wouldn't provide very much protection.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 27,276
    edited January 22
    The DBT puts the bulb's filament in series with the AC input to the component under "test". [EDIT] What you want to do is limit current flowing through the component under test* with the resistance of the bulb filament. The filament takes up the load.
    If the bulb's wattage is too low, it will light brightly even if your radio has no problems, and your radio won't play at all. We'll demonstrate this in an example below.

    Your radio should play normally without fully lighting a bulb that is roughly 1.5 to 2 times the radio's stated wattage.
    source: https://antiqueradio.org/dimbulb.htm
    (this goes on to give some real-world examples for relative low current draw tube radios)

    Remember that the most common use for DBTs is old vacuum tube equipment. Heating the tube filaments (and running the vacuum tubes) means those components draw a fair amount of juice even at idle. Solid state amplifiers (or receivers) draw very little current (more to the point, they consume very little power) at idle.

    __________________
    * if there were a short circuit in the component, the current flow would be dangerously high, and pop the fuse, or worse -- under these conditions, the bulb lights up bright(ly) and, in essence, 'protects' the component under tese from damage.


  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 14,320
    mhardy6647 wrote: »
    Solid state amplifiers (or receivers) draw very little current (more to the point, they consume very little power) at idle.

    Unless it is Class A.

    Lumin X1 file player
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,794
    Thanks. So is it of basically little to no use for repair of a solid state amplifier that is blowing fuses? Can I use the dim bulb tester on my working amp and find the lowest wattage value that allows the good one to work and then use that on the one I am repairing? Will it be possible to determine that something is wrong still , ie. there is some limited short circuit that makes the bulb burn much more brightly than it did with the fully functional amp, and at the same time keep from blowing fuse after fuse after fuse, which can get expensive?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, most mods comp. (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 3,146
    Put my Belles 350A Reference back in rotation following it's mod.
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 3,146
    edited January 26
    kcz4t5u9pkoc.jpg

    Had a loud buzzing and clicking sound coming out both channels of my Belles that I had to troubleshoot. Apparently these amps are very sensitive to electronic interference. I isolated some interference from the Bluetooth dongle for my Cambridge Audio 851N. Luckily I don't use it. Then I found out it HATES my left bank power outlet. Using it would produce an obnoxious low frequency buzz/ hum. The right bank thankfully was much better, producing only a low hum only heard when I got within a Foot or two from the speaker.

    The upper mids and highs on this are sublime!
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 3,030
    edited January 26
    Ground loop?? If I use my HTR as a source to my amp, say for usb thumbdrive playback i have to disconnect the hdmi from the TV. It creates a annoying hum.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 3,146
    Nothing else is plugged in. My amp is plugged into one circuit (the right bank) all by itself and the pre and streamer on the other (the left bank that the amp doesn't like) Never had any issues with the B&K's.
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 3,030
    edited January 26
    What speakers are those? Just curious.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 3,146
    SDA 1C's
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 27,276
    BlueFox wrote: »
    mhardy6647 wrote: »
    Solid state amplifiers (or receivers) draw very little current (more to the point, they consume very little power) at idle.

    Unless it is Class A.

    That is absolutely true: Class A (power) amplifiers are running essentially "flat out" at all times, whether tubed or solid state.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 3,146
    edited January 31
    Doing some serious A/B'ing between my B&K M200's and my Belles 350a Reference... Again.
    Update. Rolland at Hi-Tech Audio told me to use a 2 prong adapter on my power cable for my Belles. Much better!
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 3,030
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Doing some serious A/B'ing between my B&K M200's and my Belles 350a Reference... Again.
    Update. Rolland at Hi-Tech Audio told me to use a 2 prong adapter on my power cable for my Belles. Much better!

    Oh those B&K must sound terrible against the Belles. You should probably just sell the M200s to me. :D
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