What speakers are these?
Comments
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Pull those crossovers from the cabinet & spray them down with some CRC QD Electronics Cleaner. Won't harm a thing.
I've done it a number of times when I've picked up gear with bad smoke odors & such. I've pulled boards out of pieces as well as sprayed down the entire interior when board removal was too difficult. They come out sparkling & any odor is gone. Just be sure to let it evaporate fully before firing up.
ok I'll google. it. They actually don't really smell, and his home didn't smell like a cat was still there. The seller was moving so I think most of those factors are long gone.
I was going to do the air can and rubbing alchohol on a q tip but I'll try your method if it is gtg. -
Pull those crossovers from the cabinet & spray them down with some CRC QD Electronics Cleaner. Won't harm a thing.
I've done it a number of times when I've picked up gear with bad smoke odors & such. I've pulled boards out of pieces as well as sprayed down the entire interior when board removal was too difficult. They come out sparkling & any odor is gone. Just be sure to let it evaporate fully before firing up.
great suggestion Dave I had forgot all about that. I too have used it on fan motors and other electronics. works darn good! -
mhardy6647 wrote: »
Not sure if anyone's mentioned it yet but, were I you, I'd proceed with caution in terms of any cleaning/maintenance of that PR. The passing years haven't been kind to those old flat laced PRs (IMO/IME). They tend to delaminate (again IME). That one in your photo looks quite good at this late date, but it may not be all that robust if'n you were to start scrubbin' on it or somethin'.
Just thought that was worth mentioning. Apologies if it was mentioned in earlier chatter here & I missed it.
FWIW, here's a photo of my erstwhile LF-14 subwoofer taken a few years back illustrating the deterioration of the PR.
DSC_1150 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
Thank you for this. I was just going to use distilled water and wipe up around the surrounds. I only gently pushed on the driver when I was buying them to determine if the basket or coil was shot. -
@DaveHo This one?
https://walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3443&adid=22222222227009475209&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42535874672&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-81197605832&wl5=9003491&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16817418&wl13=3443&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiArK_fBRABEiwA0gOOcwrcnpTCb0DxqYUzqHzV7Ahfl1zbTTtIBj0qzirFQKPGD1SRdIyoUxoCyd4QAvD_BwE
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Yep, that's the one!
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@DaveHo awesome, there is a Walmart around the corner from my job. I'll grab a can @ lunch. Is there a repository on this forum with an exploded view of speaker so I know how to take the crossover out? I'll google it for now. You guys are getting me excited about this.
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All of the XO sits on top, one 3 pin connector, disconnect the tweet, and 2 brass thumb nuts.
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All of the XO sits on top, one 3 pin connector, disconnect the tweet, and 2 brass thumb nuts.
Not quite, the B/C revisions also have the filter for the other driver behind the binding post cup, couple of caps and coils. Only the original RTA-12 had everything on top.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I don't see a need to clean the internal portion of the crossover. I was thinking the top would be easier to clean with the CRC QD spray. I'd probably still hit it with compressed air & a chip brush to get the worst off first.
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Just found out what a 'chip brush'... Guess it is better than an old toothbrush.
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I don't see a need to clean the internal portion of the crossover. I was thinking the top would be easier to clean with the CRC QD spray. I'd probably still hit it with compressed air & a chip brush to get the worst off first.
The two red coils on the top have some kind of protective tape on them. Is it ok for the CRC to get on them also or should I avoid spraying them altogther? -
Quick question related to all of this. How do I tell the right from left speaker?
on the back of one of the tweeters the label is yellow while the other is white. Also
with the yellow labeled SL2000 the HFOUT from the board is a white wire that goes left contact on the SL200 and the HF GND OUT black wire goes to the right.
The white labeled SL2000 is vice versa with the connectors. I did look at the posted schematic but I only know a little of what I'm looking for. The speakers no longer have right/left tags on the rears and I don't see anything on the boars that indicate 'R' or 'L' -
Quick question related to all of this. How do I tell the right from left speaker?
on the back of one of the tweeters the label is yellow while the other is white. Also
with the yellow labeled SL2000 the HFOUT from the board is a white wire that goes left contact on the SL200 and the HF GND OUT black wire goes to the right.
The white labeled SL2000 is vice versa with the connectors. I did look at the posted schematic but I only know a little of what I'm looking for. The speakers no longer have right/left tags on the rears and I don't see anything on the boars that indicate 'R' or 'L'
Usually black is positive and white is negative. On the tweeter there should be a + carved by one of the terminals to indicate positive.Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member -
codycatalist wrote: »Quick question related to all of this. How do I tell the right from left speaker?
on the back of one of the tweeters the label is yellow while the other is white. Also
with the yellow labeled SL2000 the HFOUT from the board is a white wire that goes left contact on the SL200 and the HF GND OUT black wire goes to the right.
The white labeled SL2000 is vice versa with the connectors. I did look at the posted schematic but I only know a little of what I'm looking for. The speakers no longer have right/left tags on the rears and I don't see anything on the boars that indicate 'R' or 'L'
Usually black is positive and white is negative. On the tweeter there should be a + carved by one of the terminals to indicate positive.
@codycatalist Thank you, that part I've got. I'm trying to determine which speaker is designated as a Right Speaker and Left, as RTA speakers are supposed setup a particular way. -
Tweeters on the 12 are wired opposite as the phase gets reversed in the xo. So white to positive and black is negetive
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My apologies, I misread the post. They will sound best in their correct positions, if possible just switch their positions and see which configuration sounds best and roll with it.
I don't remember if the XOs have the designation, I believe they do not.Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member -
Are the serial number indicators still on the back? Not the L or R stickers but if the serial numbers are on there is should indicate which is L and R by having that letter before the serial number.Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member -
codycatalist wrote: »Are the serial number indicators still on the back? Not the L or R stickers but if the serial numbers are on there is should indicate which is L and R by having that letter before the serial number.
@codycatalist there are still some level of print on the serial # indicators. I didn't think to look there as a lot Polks I've seen that required this attention had a 'left' and 'right' sticker on the back (google searching). Great idea. I'll take a peek later tonight after prepping the bird! -
codycatalist wrote: »Are the serial number indicators still on the back? Not the L or R stickers but if the serial numbers are on there is should indicate which is L and R by having that letter before the serial number.
@codycatalist there are still some level of print on the serial # indicators. I didn't think to look there as a lot Polks I've seen that required this attention had a 'left' and 'right' sticker on the back (google searching). Great idea. I'll take a peek later tonight after prepping the bird!
Yeah report back, hopefully that helps you out. Happy Thanksgiving!Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member -
@codycatalist Happy Thanksgiving, and you are correct, the R and L designation comes up in the serial #
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The odd thing is the serial # start as 12c?but the crossover board says 12bj
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The odd thing is the serial # start as 12c?but the crossover board says 12bj
IIRC the board for the 12b and 12c is the same. -
I believe about the only difference, is the B had a fuse, and the C had a polyswitchHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »I believe about the only difference, is the B had a fuse, and the C had a polyswitch
Only thing i seen on the schematics the other day so i believe you are correct. -
All the boards I've seen on 12c have different value caps from a 12b as well as different tweeters. But I think they use the same board.
I still think you may have a 12c since you dont have the peerless tweeters.
I think the 12b got a mid model revision where they removed or added the poly for the fuse and I dont think that was the difference from a b to c. -
All the boards I've seen on 12c have different value caps from a 12b as well as different tweeters. But I think they use the same board.
I still think you may have a 12c since you dont have the peerless tweeters.
I think the 12b got a mid model revision where they removed or added the poly for the fuse and I dont think that was the difference from a b to c.
Did you read the schematics?
What cap value was different? -
All the boards I've seen on 12c have different value caps from a 12b as well as different tweeters. But I think they use the same board.
I still think you may have a 12c since you dont have the peerless tweeters.
I think the 12b got a mid model revision where they removed or added the poly for the fuse and I dont think that was the difference from a b to c.
Did you read the schematics?
What cap value was different?
Those schematics are both for 12b. 1 with revision where the poly switch was removed. Not 12c. Try and find a schematic for the 12c not a revised 12b or 12a.
I may be wrong but this is how I understand it to be. -
This is a 12c crossover. Has a resistor and differant caps than a 12b. 12b do not have a resistor on the top board. The resistor for 12b in in the cab. The schematics you are talking about show no extra resistor. That is what leads me to believe both those schematics are for 12b with and without revisions aka poly switch vs fuse. Also still have never seen an oem 12b come with any tweeter other than the peerless with a hole in the dome. 5514 and or 7514.
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Notice the first two pics above (last post) with a different crossover also have a non peerless tweeter. 3rd pic is a 12b with peerless. This photo below is my 12b crossover with the oem peerless.
I'm almost certain he has the more sought after 12c.
And this is a 12b serial number. Notice the b in place of his c.
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