What speakers are these?

24

Comments

  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    JayMX wrote: »
    @CH46E, I would bet his were original with the SL2000's. The versions that had Peerless (that I’ve seen) (RTA12A's?) had them mounted vertically and they didn’t have the black MDF mounting “bracket” or the metal HF deflector below the tweeter. The bracket is the same as on my C's and is built to fit the SL2000. I believe the Peerless are physically a little smaller. The RD0-194's should drop in.
    I've had the oem and the SL2000 and they both fit perfectly in the housing.

    I dont think the 194s are a drop in for the 12b without a crossover tweak. I've never seen a 12b come with anything other than the peerless. I could be wrong though. Just never seen it. nij4vhgotqep.jpg

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    CH46E wrote: »
    I've never seen a 12b come with anything other than the peerless. I could be wrong though. Just never seen it.

    I'll take pictures...

    Unless you bought yours new, I suspect the peerless 12Bs you have were modified. Any 12B Google image I've seen always shows the SL2K, and 12/12A with the peerless.
  • JayMX
    JayMX Posts: 446
    @CH46E interesting. I hadn’t ever seen Peerless mounted in them like that. Mine had been replaced before I purchased them. The RD0-194’s sound great in them and the crossovers are bone stock. Someday I’ll give them the SoniCap treatment, but there are a lot more capacitors in these than in a pair of Monitor 10's... great speakers. Enjoy!
    Current Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), SDA CRS+ (194’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL, R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩
    Pairs that have passed through: Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 5b (SL2000) (4x pair), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10b (5x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, RTA 11T, RTA12c (194's), SDA CRS, SDA 2 (2x pair), SDA 2a, SDA 2b, SDA 1b, SDA 1c, SDA SRS 2 (2x pair), SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s) (2x pair)...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,440
    JayMX wrote: »
    @CH46E, I would bet his were original with the SL2000's. The versions that had Peerless (that I’ve seen) (RTA12A's?) had them mounted vertically and they didn’t have the black MDF mounting “bracket” or the metal HF deflector below the tweeter. The bracket is the same as on my C's and is built to fit the SL2000. I believe the Peerless are physically a little smaller. The RD0-194's should drop in.

    Correct on the tweeters size. The 194's are the correct replacement tweeter. The crossovers for the peerless are different.
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Interesting, I would have expected the older mws with the peerless. Also,what's with the tape measure on the floor? :*
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Interesting, I would have expected the older mws with the peerless. Also,what's with the tape measure on the floor? :*

    One of two things, I figure.
    thing 1) to illustrate minimum separation for good stereo.
    or
    thing 2) to illustrate the precision nature of the loudspeaker design and construction processes.*

    ______________
    * Hey, Lou? You got any calipers or dividers or anythin' we can put in this photoshoot? Naah, Sam... but, I got some nails and, oh! here's a tape measure!


    ;)
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited November 2018
    Congrats.

    I've used "409" to clean a ton of stereo stuff.

    Maybe I've used Lysol Lavender cleaner a lot too. It's antibacterial. ;)

    I've also used "AWESOME CLEANER" from The Dollar Tree store. 1.00 a bottle or 1.00 for a bigger refill bottle.
    cd4bx8yywawe.png

    BUT...sometimes the sticky feel is still slightly there no matter how much I clean them.

    But hey, considering their age and all, I've lived with such speakers and don't worry as long as the stink of cigarettes is gone.

    409 dissolves nicotine instantly.

    I've never had to clean a cross-over so I'll let some more experienced people give you advice on how to do those.

    Again, Congrats. B)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,440
    edited November 2018
    Be very careful with totally awesome cleaner. Yes straight it will clean nicotine very very good better than 409 but it's a very aggressive cleaner.
    Post edited by pitdogg2 on
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited November 2018
    I didn't know it was that powerful. I'll have to read the ingredients closer today.

    I just went and read the bottle but it didn't show any active ingredients / content. It did show strong warnings so you're right. It must be very powerful.
    Post edited by Tony M on
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,440
    edited November 2018
    Orange Oil Blend
    Ethoxylated Alcohol
    Disodium Salt
    Tetra Sodium EDTA > is a chelating agents that’s made from formaldehyde and sodium cyanide.
    Hydroxy Sodium> A.K.A Lye



    On electronics you cannot rinse off so you need a good cleaner that goes away (evaporates). If it sits there and possibly creeps into something important bad things could start to happen. I love the cleaner it's a little harsh on my nostrils but when it says to dilute do so. I used it on some drivers and it ate the surrounds off.

    lesson learned
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    The two big caveats with cleaners for hifi components IME/IMO

    Painted on glass labeling (e.g., tuning scales) and silkscreened(?) front panel labeling.

    Don't ask me how I know this ;)
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    edited November 2018
    Don't fret about what EDTA may be made from!!! That is NOT what it is, nor what it would degrade to.

    EDTA is widely used as a chelating agent (sequestering divalent cations such as Ca+2, Mg+2, Mn+2, etc.), including use in food products. I believe that it a so-called GRAS (generally regarded as safe) chemical compound.


  • maingey
    maingey Posts: 631
    probably only use cleaner for side and not drivers. Just a damn lint free cloth.
    can I use a qtip with rubbing alchohol for the crossover? That'll evaporate.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,440
    edited November 2018
    91% alcohol will be fine and original windex is tried and proven for the woofers lint free cloth and spray on the cloth and keep it wet use two hands to support the woofer.
    I always push in a little with my free hand helps with the surround. you may have to turn the cloth often as sometimes there is a little more gunk than you realize
    Post edited by pitdogg2 on
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    maingey wrote: »
    probably only use cleaner for side and not drivers. Just a damn lint free cloth.
    can I use a qtip with rubbing alchohol for the crossover? That'll evaporate.

    Yea, those damn lint free cloths are great.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • maingey
    maingey Posts: 631
    Tony M wrote: »
    maingey wrote: »
    probably only use cleaner for side and not drivers. Just a damn lint free cloth.
    can I use a qtip with rubbing alchohol for the crossover? That'll evaporate.

    Yea, those damn lint free cloths are great.

    I did not realize I typed that magically word in there. My bad.
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited November 2018
    maingey wrote: »
    Tony M wrote: »
    maingey wrote: »
    probably only use cleaner for side and not drivers. Just a damn lint free cloth.
    can I use a qtip with rubbing alchohol for the crossover? That'll evaporate.

    Yea, those damn lint free cloths are great.

    I did not realize I typed that magically word in there. My bad.

    I know. I should've put a :D at the end of my sentence. :)

    It's damp outside here in NC. today. ;):)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,058
    I had a "lint-free cloth" once. It was invisible.
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    I put some spot remover on my dog.
    Now he's gone.
    Steven Wright
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    Steven Wright...

    I loved his comedy acts!!! :DB)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    @maingey have you hooked them up yet???
  • maingey
    maingey Posts: 631
    CH46E wrote: »
    @maingey have you hooked them up yet???

    I would love to but I've gotta clean them before I get them into the house, and I work long hours - so I've had about 5 minutes with them.
  • maingey
    maingey Posts: 631
    JayMX wrote: »
    @CH46E, I would bet his were original with the SL2000's. The versions that had Peerless (that I’ve seen) (RTA12A's?) had them mounted vertically and they didn’t have the black MDF mounting “bracket” or the metal HF deflector below the tweeter. The bracket is the same as on my C's and is built to fit the SL2000. I believe the Peerless are physically a little smaller. The RD0-194's should drop in.

    You are correct, sir!

    ur28a2uanu7g.jpg
  • maingey
    maingey Posts: 631
    ...and this is what I mean by needing a cleaning before I bring them into the house:

    u0iokdea2psk.jpg

    0zgbgtdh4ocg.jpg
    5q4o6mn42qfq.jpg
    w31unvc78zsb.jpg
    xbwqnof3z7ho.jpg

  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,515
    Pull those crossovers from the cabinet & spray them down with some CRC QD Electronics Cleaner. Won't harm a thing.

    I've done it a number of times when I've picked up gear with bad smoke odors & such. I've pulled boards out of pieces as well as sprayed down the entire interior when board removal was too difficult. They come out sparkling & any odor is gone. Just be sure to let it evaporate fully before firing up.
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    8ideg2wl122e.png

    Not sure if anyone's mentioned it yet but, were I you, I'd proceed with caution in terms of any cleaning/maintenance of that PR. The passing years haven't been kind to those old flat laced PRs (IMO/IME). They tend to delaminate (again IME). That one in your photo looks quite good at this late date, but it may not be all that robust if'n you were to start scrubbin' on it or somethin'.

    Just thought that was worth mentioning. Apologies if it was mentioned in earlier chatter here & I missed it.

    FWIW, here's a photo of my erstwhile LF-14 subwoofer taken a few years back illustrating the deterioration of the PR.

    10729919005_c06dcb86a5_b.jpgDSC_1150 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr