The 1.2TL, Project Monolith
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Yes there's a spray you apply to the metal which turns black.
It is difficult to adhere though
Like black paint?Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
What larry showed above is it.
You have to seriously clean/degrease the metal. You apply it like a paint and when the laser hits it the product turns black to whatever you are etching. You then clean the substrate and all that will remain will be your etched design.- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Ah...Snaps, as the kids say.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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I will try and do a short video next time we run the machine.. -
How dare you come in here dropping eye candy like that without a proper build thread.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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I will try and do a short video next time we run the machine..
Outstanding! Do you have mirrors mounted behind speakers to show them off?Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Burn in Lumin u2 - audioquest diamond usb- A-usb-B. and
LHY as6 switch in the mail,exciting stuff -
"The!" best pair I've ever heard.
@lightman1 This is a very generous comment considering they only had around 100 hours of burn-in. Trey informed me of this just before your listening session. These are currently in the process of another upgrade; when done, I will post the pics.
The room acoustic treatments are so close to being perfect right now, and the Monoliths are truly like a fine wine, getting better with age—they will have to be clawed away from my dead body. Thanks again to everyone for helping get my Polk dream this far.
I’ll try to keep the Aussie vocabulary to a minimum so I don't confuse the sensitive folk."
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They'll get over it. Aussie away I say. Looking forward to the updates Sean.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Cheered back at ya.
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You can tell when the dad is left with the kids at home and mom is out for the evening.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
"The!" best pair I've ever heard.
@lightman1 This is a very generous comment considering they only had around 100 hours of burn-in. Trey informed me of this just before your listening session. These are currently in the process of another upgrade; when done, I will post the pics.
The room acoustic treatments are so close to being perfect right now, and the Monoliths are truly like a fine wine, getting better with age—they will have to be clawed away from my dead body. Thanks again to everyone for helping get my Polk dream this far.
I’ll try to keep the Aussie vocabulary to a minimum so I don't confuse the sensitive folk."
Shorty 1.2TL's on the horizon?
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
"The!" best pair I've ever heard.@lightman1 This is a very generous comment considering they only had around 100 hours of burn-in.
xschop:....."Shorty 1.2TL's on the horizon?"
@xschop."Not yet. I have left it in the hands of a good friend and his fabricator. It will be a while away, but it will be worth it. To me, anyway!
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Master Po would be proud.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
It’s confirmed. I’m on the
Lumin u2x and lhyas8 pro +
Wife: what’s the little box ? That’s the x to the Lumin 2 i answered 😜 -
What kind of footers are you using on the Lumin?
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Just for now , I am using sorbothane as my ocd won’t let me install an unlevelled pair (Lumin and its power supply), I only have 4 Oreo isoacoustic feet. I’m happy I don’t suffer ocd from writing , I find that’s more cbf for me.
The three shelf glass television rack has 3 layers of extreme dynomat topped with dynaliner.
I know the Sunfire theatre sig is supporting the Lumin but it’s not used or on in stereo mode.
When I buy the dac in the near future,the theatre setup will be phased out and the stereo begins..
It’s done 40 hours burn-in and the difference between the u2 and u2x is to say that ,they are nowhere near the same ball park❤️
The Lhy and Lumin are heavily mechanically dampening and are also sfp connected so won’t suffer from vibes between them . I do believe they also don’t need a clock cable, correct me if I’m wrong.
Kiss theory
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No, those are both clock inputs. The Lhy and the Lumin both have internal clocks. If you were to get a better clock, then you would use the cables to connect from that Master clock into both the Lhy and the Lumin. That way both units would be synced and clocked in the same time reference.
They would both have to have the same Hz as well, otherwise you would have to run separate clocks for each one. The majority of clock inputs operate at 10MHz, but you would have to check and see what each inputs Hz rating is to be 100% sure.
Adding an external master clock defeats the KISS theory, because it adds more components and cables, but the case for sound makes a Master clock invaluable to the KISS theory because it lessens the amount of jitter, noise and unwanted artifacts when it synchronizes both units to the exact same time domain and it also tells each unit exactly when to send the sample rate for perfect synchonization of both units. This results in a much cleaner sound.
There is a lot more to it, and I hope I explained this good enough for folks to understand, but this should give you an idea of why just adding a cable between them won't do anything. Both units would still be using their internal clocks.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
On another note, Audio Sensibilities makes a great umbilcal cable for inbetween the PS and the Lumin. It costs less than the Westminster and offers an estimated 95% of what the Westminster offers. It was a good uptick in sound quality for me.
Just food for thought as you transition from HT to 2 channel audio.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Yes,The LHY is better than -112 dBc/Hz at a 1Hz offset and the Lumin u2x is also exceptional at clocking.
Using SPF between the two then adding a clock or clock cable breaks their galvanic connection and defeats the purpose of fibre connection completely.
I must say the SPF connection has the luminu u2x giving breathtaking realism ,depth and 3d holographic image from first start up. Voices are just floating there with such texture in a way I have never heard in this tone before......I want more.......
The Mola Mola tambaquie is a pre and dac ,it also has no 10 MHz clock or any sort of off the shelf DAC chip !
(Digital Processing): A custom DSP chip takes all incoming digital audio data, upsamples it to 32-bit / 3.125MHz, and converts it into a high-frequency, noise-shaped PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signal.
Board 2 (Hardware Conversion): Two custom-built mono DAC stages process the signal using a discrete 32-stage analogue FIR filter coupled with a 4th-order I/V converter to output clean analog audio.
This bespoke architecture is what gives the Tambaqui DAC its signature performance, offering near-theoretical limit performance with an incredibly high 130dB signal-to-noise ratio.
I want it now Mommy. :'( -
Actually, I stand corrected. (Sorry, I am not familiar with your switch) It appears as if your AS8 Pro switch has both an external clock input AND output. So, you could connect the switch to the Lumin. You would want to weigh in on which clock is better and which one has a lower noise factor. This is usually measured three ways, but most manufacturers unfortunately only list one at that certain frequency.
You always want to use the better clock, and just getting an external clock just to have one may not be an improvement, It could actually make it worse. My Mutec REF 10 SE 120 has the lowest of all the internal clocks in my rig, so I use it. It has a -120 dBc at a 1 Hz offset from the 10 MHz carrier, but again, that's just one parameter that needs to be paid attention too.
At your reported rating of -112 dBc/Hz at a 1Hz offset, the internal clock appears to be pretty good - BUT you would need to compare that to the performance of the internal clock in the Lumin to figure out which one is better. If the Lumin's internal clock is better than the switch, I wouldn't even bother with hooking up the cable.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Using SPF between the two then adding a clock or clock cable breaks their galvonic connection and defeats the purpose of fibre connection completely.
It does not, if all channels on a Master clock are galvanically isolated and completely separate as well. Just an FYI. You just can't use the same PS for the switch and the clock, as that will loop it all in together and defeat the fiber isolation. FWIW.
Tom
~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
On another note, Audio Sensibilities makes a great umbilcal cable for inbetween the PS and the Lumin. It costs less than the Westminster and offers an estimated 95% of what the Westminster offers. It was a good uptick in sound quality for me.
Just food for thought as you transition from HT to 2 channel audio.
Tom
Where do we stop .lol. The noise floor in the room is so black ,non-exinstent.
I have 20 amp transparent mm2x power cables for everything already for the future.,these are fed from a shunyata venom 8 power board which is straight out of a Thor ps10 power conditioner which has its own dedicated 20 amp line and faraday shield, this is for the 4 digital devices.
I had the electrical coy (synergy )out here at one stage a few years back as I was getting 269 v into my home,(led's weren't lasting long). This was apparently due to allot of solar systems in the area and needed tweaking at the transformer.
They ignored me until I said my taps are tingling, bang, here within 20 minutes! tested it over a 2 week period.
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Using SPF between the two then adding a clock or clock cable breaks their galvonic connection and defeats the purpose of fibre connection completely.
It does not, if all channels on a Master clock are galvanically isolated and completely separate as well. Just an FYI. You just can't use the same PS for the switch and the clock, as that will loop it all in together and defeat the fiber isolation. FWIW.
Tom
The LhY as8 pro+ has a specific audio isolated zone which uses SFP fibre internally for complete galvanic isolation .Going fibre to the Lumin is galvanic connection #2 in their connection.
The Mola's internal asynchronous upsampling makes it essentially immune to source clock jitter.
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Cool deal. Sounds to me like LHY has been paying attention to John Swenson. I have the same thing in my switch, albeit a different type of "moat" that does not convert to fiber, and then convert back. That can add noise (not much, but still measurable). The second moat in my system is using Wi-fi to get the packets of information back to the listening room. The third moat is that everything on the streaming portion of the rig is plugged into a power conditioner that also offers galvanic isolation from the incoming A/C. The end result is a VERY clean signal and ultra low noise. My noise floor is very close to yours as well. That is awesome!
It appears as if we are doing the same thing, albeit in different ways to go about it. What you have done let's me know what level you are playing on, and the types of sounds you are experiencing. Very nice.Where do we stop
I don't think guys like you and I ever do. LOL. I like to keep pushing the envelope. Sounds to me like you are in the same boat. Nothing wrong with that at all! Heck, to me, that's half the fun.
Tom
~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Cool deal. Sounds to me like LHY has been paying attention to John Swenson. I have the same thing in my switch, albeit a different type of "moat" that does not convert to fiber, and then convert back. That can add noise (not much, but still measurable). The second moat in my system is using Wi-fi to get the packets of information back to the listening room. The third moat is that everything on the streaming portion of the rig is plugged into a power conditioner that also offers galvanic isolation from the incoming A/C. The end result is a VERY clean signal and ultra low noise. My noise floor is very close to yours as well. That is awesome!
It appears as if we are doing the same thing, albeit in different ways to go about it. What you have done let's me know what level you are playing on, and the types of sounds you are experiencing. Very nice.Where do we stop
I don't think guys like you and I ever do. LOL. I like to keep pushing the envelope. Sounds to me like you are in the same boat. Nothing wrong with that at all! Heck, to me, that's half the fun.
Tom
Agreed, The emotional connection that vibrations bring to our lives is undeniably a drug.
I can't wait to convert my ve HSV Holden wagon in the next 5 years into power amplifiers.Just might happen sooner as it's given me over 4 years of grief..... Love reading your posts 
And by the way,"This is yours and Vr3's fault !" -
Actually, I stand corrected. (Sorry, I am not familiar with your switch) It appears as if your AS8 Pro switch has both an external clock input AND output. So, you could connect the switch to the Lumin. You would want to weigh in on which clock is better and which one has a lower noise factor. This is usually measured three ways, but most manufacturers unfortunately only list one at that certain frequency.
You always want to use the better clock, and just getting an external clock just to have one may not be an improvement, It could actually make it worse. My Mutec REF 10 SE 120 has the lowest of all the internal clocks in my rig, so I use it. It has a -120 dBc at a 1 Hz offset from the 10 MHz carrier, but again, that's just one parameter that needs to be paid attention too.
At your reported rating of -112 dBc/Hz at a 1Hz offset, the internal clock appears to be pretty good - BUT you would need to compare that to the performance of the internal clock in the Lumin to figure out which one is better. If the Lumin's internal clock is better than the switch, I wouldn't even bother with hooking up the cable.
Tom
I could slave the lhy clock to the lumin clock if I wanted to ,this is what I would do If I wasn't using fibre. -
All this audio goodness has me inspired.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
SDA SRS 1.2 TL Monolith: Front and Rear Baffle Brace Upgrade.
Now that I'm finally moving towards some serious gear, the Monoliths have started absolutely hammering it out down under.
They are running much faster and deeper now, but I reckon they will benefit immensely from some extra bracing.
This is an area we should fair dinkum concentrate on for one of the next updates. I want to focus right between the MW drivers and ensure it has some form of asymmetrical bracing.
My plan is to make sure these big boys are completely sorted by the time the final pieces of the puzzle—the power amps—are incorporated.
I'd appreciate any top ideas, internal photos, or past experiences to support this next no-limits build.
From here on, as per usual, all metal fabrication will be handed over to Xschops' department to keep production in the USA.
I'd love to go full Magico on an enclosure , but I don't think xschops CNC machine is big enough.
Cheers! -
Not sure about how the tweeter rows are braced on yours. You can probably leave those factory or update. However, orientate your steel semi-rings (red) horizontally and use 1" dia. solid oak dowels (yellow) front to back. This will fix any baffle flex and not take up much air volume. I'd even swap out the rectangular brace/s between the Passive and X-over plate...
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
