RDO-194 Install/Swap Simple !

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VSAT88
VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
in Vintage Speakers
This is a write up for the guy or gal that was like me when I got my first set of really nice speakers and really did not know what to do to upgrade them. New Capacitors ? New resistors ? Wiring ? Binding posts ? Where do I start. The good folks here a Club Polk walked me thru many a trial as I restored a few sets of SDA speakers and I wanted to share how simple a swap from an SL-2000 tweeter to a RDO-194 tweeter upgrade can be. I was told that this can be one of the best starting points and I agree. I had The RDO tweeters installed in these speakers before however I toasted all four in a millisecond with bad pre amp I installed before checking it on the workbench, totally my fault.. so I ordered four more. You would not believe how helpful and professional the folk at Polk Audio Tech. support can be unless you call them ! The number is: 1-800-377-7655. To order the RDO tweeter of your choice press the button for Technical support. I spoke with Gary he was great and I would like to thank him here and now...Thanks Gary, I love them. 20170331_145341_zpsnuog3nlf.jpg
The box they came in.
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Plenty of shipping material inside.
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All four in separate boxes.
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Once again, boxed up well.
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Hey, there is the prize !
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Back side. Notice something is not there ?
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What terminal is the positive ? Look closely..Its marked red.
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The other side..negative is silver, no paint or marking.
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I take a red marker and mark the positive all over back and front .
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See, I also etch a mark with a small screwdriver on each side. +
20170331_145858_zpsdfmnjo4j.jpg And negative.
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Here they are ready to install. I replaced the stock jumpers today as well. You can see those in the image.
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Image of the old SL-2000 tweeters
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Screws out.
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Recall when I said something was missing ? Its not missing, it is on your old tweeters !
That gasket on the old SL-2000, take it off and put it on your new tweeters ! Don't forget that one ! I re use the old gasket as long as it is still in good condition. F1Nut recommends re use, good enough for him, good enough for me.
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New tweets installed...
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The old tweeters fit great in the new boxes for storage or mailing.
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I use this hand made tool to make sure both tweeters work..Very Low Volume...You can make one too...Use a paper towel roll..L0L!

So now, go order yourself a set ! Tell them you are a Club Polk member (if you are) and get a di$count . Feel free to ask me any questions you may have. As I am still a NooB I cant answer em all, but if I don't know you can bet there is someone here who can !
















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  • kevinko
    kevinko Posts: 165
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    VSAT88 wrote: »
    I spoke with Gary he was great and I would like to thank him here and now...

    I dealt with Gary recently and he was excellent.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,598
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    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
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    "designed by John Crisco" Thanks John Crisco and "lots of talented help" as well as you Kenneth (for the history, always good to know that). These RDO-0194's sound fine in the system !
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
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    lightman1 wrote: »
    How many speaker companies still support their 40 year old design? And encourage owners to better that design?
    Just one.

    They are awesome !
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  • Dabutcher
    Dabutcher Posts: 2,637
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    Five years ago when I replaced my eight on the SDA's as my first upgrade. They were $50 x 8 = $400 with free shipping from Polk for being a forum member. All eight of the old tweeters still worked. So I put them in those nice boxes and sold them on eBay for around $25 each. So that upgrade only set me back $150. Peace. D
    MIT Magnum MH-750, Monster HTS 5100MKII, Sony 77" Class - A80CJ Series - 4K UHD OLED,PS4, Def Tech 15” sub,LSIM 706c, Sunfire Signature Grand 425 x 4,Parasound hca 120, LSiM 702 x 4, Oppo 103D, SDA SRS 1.2, Pioneer Elite SC63 , Pioneer Elite BDP-05 “Why did you get married if you wanted big speakers?”
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  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,083
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    KennethSwauger wrote: »
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
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  • agfrost
    agfrost Posts: 2,497
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    Nightfall wrote: »
    KennethSwauger wrote: »
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)

    My mistake has been in hyphen placement: I've been typing RD0-198. Hopefully Polk police don't come by to pick up my collection as punishment!
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * McCormack DNA 0.5 amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Mitsubishi LT-30 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
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    Agreed
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
    edited April 2017
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    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    My OCD is kicking in, I can't stand the look of the SHCS and Wood Screws mixed is killing me!!!

    What is going on with that? You need Tweeter brackets..

    They are SDA-SRS 2 speakers and there is a solid cabinet support behind there so putting in the SHCS and hurricane nut was impossible. I hated that too. Only the top of the bottom tweeter is that way. Perhaps Tweeter brackets would work ? I really don't see how. However If so, where do I get those ? Thats why I like to post here, I get to learn cool stuff.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
    edited April 2017
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    Nightfall wrote: »
    KennethSwauger wrote: »
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)

    I am dyslexic it seems, even though @KennethSwauger let me know the correct number I am still typing it wrong....so, I try again here...RD-0194

    BTW, came back here to see if someone can answer about those tweeter brackets..
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  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,083
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    The brackets are made by Larry, ask him if he has any he could sell or post a WTB thread.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
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    Thanks @Nightfall .
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  • 70sMusicMan
    70sMusicMan Posts: 7
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    Great, thank you for sharing this information. I have a beginner question - can you hear a difference using the new tweeters?
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
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    Yes, to my ear they are softer for lack of a better word. They do not hurt my ears like the others did in these speakers. The sibiliance toned almost completely down. I try and use them on all my vintage Polks.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 2,021
    edited July 2018
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    VSAT88 wrote: »
    Yes, to my ear they are softer for lack of a better word. They do not hurt my ears like the others did in these speakers. The sibiliance** toned almost completely down. I try and use them on all my vintage Polks.
    I wish swapping the ‘0194s for 690s* were so brainless for precisely the same** reason**.
    * RTi A series tweeter

    Tony

    Samsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    *all connected w/Premiere ICs
    5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”

    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • ItGos211
    ItGos211 Posts: 1
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    I replaced the SL-2000's in my Monitor 10B's tonight and notice an immediate improvement with the RD-0194's. I'm sure they will sound even better once properly broken in. Cheers!
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  • HzTweaker
    HzTweaker Posts: 1,136
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    Welcome to Club Polk @ItGos211 . There are plenty of knowledgeable folks on this forum that can help you on your path to upgrading your 10Bs.
    2ch rig: Speakers: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods Preamplifier: Parasound P5 DAC: Fiio K13 Amplifier: Parasound A23 CDP: Pioneer DV-563A Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp)

    Standby: Magnepan LRS w/Magna Riser stands
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 2,021
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    Do the those bezels come off (easy)?
    Samsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    *all connected w/Premiere ICs
    5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”

    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
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    The bezel is part of the tweet and I don't think you would want to take it off
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    Do the those bezels come off (easy)?

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
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    The bezel will come off easily by removing the 4 screws around the dome.
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  • Dragon2020
    Dragon2020 Posts: 1
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    Just got my SDA 1C and thinking about replacing the tweeters. Do you have to solder?
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
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    Nope. Not if you get the RD 0194's
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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    edited August 2019
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    This content has been removed.
  • MCM
    MCM Posts: 1
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    Hello All, I just came into a pair of near mint 10Bs. I glued the magnets before transporting them and now I would like to perform the tweeter and crossover upgrades, but I would prefer not to spend a ton on audiophile capacitors. The RD-0194 tweeters are still available from Polk, so I will order a pair of those. I need some direction on the caps and resistors. What do you all recommend? I've been reading a lot of old threads and just recently joined the forum.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
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    I am about to try some oil run capacitors but I am strange and like to experiment. Try typing Club Polk then your monitor series number in a Google search and there should be 100's of recommendations. Sonicap being favored.
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    Can't go wrong with Clarity PX. Good entry level caps that won't break the bank. Mills 10-12 watt resistors to replace the sandcast 5 watt originals. If there's a Polyswitch, you'll want to replace it with a .5 ohm resistor as well
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
    edited July 2020
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    westmassguy wrote: »
    Can't go wrong with Clarity PX. Good entry level caps that won't break the bank. Mills 10-12 watt resistors to replace the sandcast 5 watt originals. If there's a Polyswitch, you'll want to replace it with a .5 ohm resistor as well

    I have also used those Clarity caps , the PX and I really like those. In fact I am using them in my SDA speakers...
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 2,021
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    @VT88, @westmassguy:
    What do you “like” about the CC PX* caps. Please be specific. I realize I ask a tough question. Use comparisons if that helps.
    * no secret we have better choices at much higher $s

    I used 68uf as DC blocking caps in my LCR* ** and my only comparison are the Polk originals. My objective was neutrality. I believed 68uf has zero affect above 1-1.5Khz.
    *my sig may answer some questions
    ** I plan to use same in my surrounds when I get to it

    Thanks Tony
    Samsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    *all connected w/Premiere ICs
    5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”

    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,383
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    Thick solid leads. Last forever. The sound I got was better than original and the price was nice. Besides the fact that you know you put in a very nice quality product yourself !
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