RDO-194 Install/Swap Simple !

This is a write up for the guy or gal that was like me when I got my first set of really nice speakers and really did not know what to do to upgrade them. New Capacitors ? New resistors ? Wiring ? Binding posts ? Where do I start. The good folks here a Club Polk walked me thru many a trial as I restored a few sets of SDA speakers and I wanted to share how simple a swap from an SL-2000 tweeter to a RDO-194 tweeter upgrade can be. I was told that this can be one of the best starting points and I agree. I had The RDO tweeters installed in these speakers before however I toasted all four in a millisecond with bad pre amp I installed before checking it on the workbench, totally my fault.. so I ordered four more. You would not believe how helpful and professional the folk at Polk Audio Tech. support can be unless you call them ! The number is: 1-800-377-7655. To order the RDO tweeter of your choice press the button for Technical support. I spoke with Gary he was great and I would like to thank him here and now...Thanks Gary, I love them. 20170331_145341_zpsnuog3nlf.jpg
The box they came in.
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Plenty of shipping material inside.
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All four in separate boxes.
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Once again, boxed up well.
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Hey, there is the prize !
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Back side. Notice something is not there ?
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What terminal is the positive ? Look closely..Its marked red.
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The other side..negative is silver, no paint or marking.
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I take a red marker and mark the positive all over back and front .
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See, I also etch a mark with a small screwdriver on each side. +
20170331_145858_zpsdfmnjo4j.jpg And negative.
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Here they are ready to install. I replaced the stock jumpers today as well. You can see those in the image.
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Image of the old SL-2000 tweeters
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Screws out.
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Recall when I said something was missing ? Its not missing, it is on your old tweeters !
That gasket on the old SL-2000, take it off and put it on your new tweeters ! Don't forget that one ! I re use the old gasket as long as it is still in good condition. F1Nut recommends re use, good enough for him, good enough for me.
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New tweets installed...
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The old tweeters fit great in the new boxes for storage or mailing.
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I use this hand made tool to make sure both tweeters work..Very Low Volume...You can make one too...Use a paper towel roll..L0L!

So now, go order yourself a set ! Tell them you are a Club Polk member (if you are) and get a di$count . Feel free to ask me any questions you may have. As I am still a NooB I cant answer em all, but if I don't know you can bet there is someone here who can !
















Comments

  • kevinkokevinko Posts: 157
    VSAT88 wrote: »
    I spoke with Gary he was great and I would like to thank him here and now...

    I dealt with Gary recently and he was excellent.
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 707
    "designed by John Crisco" Thanks John Crisco and "lots of talented help" as well as you Kenneth (for the history, always good to know that). These RDO-0194's sound fine in the system !
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 707
    lightman1 wrote: »
    How many speaker companies still support their 40 year old design? And encourage owners to better that design?
    Just one.

    They are awesome !
  • DabutcherDabutcher Posts: 2,005
    Five years ago when I replaced my eight on the SDA's as my first upgrade. They were $50 x 8 = $400 with free shipping from Polk for being a forum member. All eight of the old tweeters still worked. So I put them in those nice boxes and sold them on eBay for around $25 each. So that upgrade only set me back $150. Peace. D
    MIT Magnum MH-750, Monster HTS 5100MKII, Mitsubishi rear projection 73, PS4, PSW505 , Sunfire Signature Grand 425 x 4,Parasound hca 120, RTi12, FXiA6, CSiA6, SDA SRS 1.2, Pioneer Elite SC63 , Pioneer Elite BDP-05



    “Why did you get married if you wanted big speakers?”
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 7,563
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
  • agfrostagfrost Posts: 2,256
    Nightfall wrote: »
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)

    My mistake has been in hyphen placement: I've been typing RD0-198. Hopefully Polk police don't come by to pick up my collection as punishment!
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Marantz DV-9500 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
  • Toolfan66Toolfan66 Posts: 14,161
    My OCD is kicking in, I can't stand the look of the SHCS and Wood Screws mixed is killing me!!!

    What is going on with that? You need Tweeter brackets..
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,940
    Agreed
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 707
    edited April 2017
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    My OCD is kicking in, I can't stand the look of the SHCS and Wood Screws mixed is killing me!!!

    What is going on with that? You need Tweeter brackets..

    They are SDA-SRS 2 speakers and there is a solid cabinet support behind there so putting in the SHCS and hurricane nut was impossible. I hated that too. Only the top of the bottom tweeter is that way. Perhaps Tweeter brackets would work ? I really don't see how. However If so, where do I get those ? Thats why I like to post here, I get to learn cool stuff.
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 707
    edited April 2017
    Nightfall wrote: »
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)

    I am dyslexic it seems, even though @KennethSwauger let me know the correct number I am still typing it wrong....so, I try again here...RD-0194

    BTW, came back here to see if someone can answer about those tweeter brackets..
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 7,563
    The brackets are made by Larry, ask him if he has any he could sell or post a WTB thread.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 707
    Thanks @Nightfall .
  • Great, thank you for sharing this information. I have a beginner question - can you hear a difference using the new tweeters?
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 707
    Yes, to my ear they are softer for lack of a better word. They do not hurt my ears like the others did in these speakers. The sibiliance toned almost completely down. I try and use them on all my vintage Polks.
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,224
    edited July 2018
    VSAT88 wrote: »
    Yes, to my ear they are softer for lack of a better word. They do not hurt my ears like the others did in these speakers. The sibiliance** toned almost completely down. I try and use them on all my vintage Polks.
    I wish swapping the ‘0194s for 690s* were so brainless for precisely the same** reason**.
    * RTi A series tweeter

    Tony

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7. Woofers, Rotel 98X amp; M & T, P'sound HCA-1000
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: 1 Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3*
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
    *Bi-amped by years end
  • HzTweakerHzTweaker Posts: 534
    Welcome to Club Polk @ItGos211 . There are plenty of knowledgeable folks on this forum that can help you on your path to upgrading your 10Bs.
    2ch rig:
    Speakers: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods
    Preamplifier: Parasound P5
    Amplifier: Vincent SP-331
    CDP: Denon 1520
    Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB
    Benched: Parasound A23
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,224
    Do the those bezels come off (easy)?
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7. Woofers, Rotel 98X amp; M & T, P'sound HCA-1000
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: 1 Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3*
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
    *Bi-amped by years end
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 707
    The bezel is part of the tweet and I don't think you would want to take it off
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    Do the those bezels come off (easy)?

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,940
    The bezel will come off easily by removing the 4 screws around the dome.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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