RDO-194 Install/Swap Simple !
VSAT88
Posts: 1,269
This is a write up for the guy or gal that was like me when I got my first set of really nice speakers and really did not know what to do to upgrade them. New Capacitors ? New resistors ? Wiring ? Binding posts ? Where do I start. The good folks here a Club Polk walked me thru many a trial as I restored a few sets of SDA speakers and I wanted to share how simple a swap from an SL-2000 tweeter to a RDO-194 tweeter upgrade can be. I was told that this can be one of the best starting points and I agree. I had The RDO tweeters installed in these speakers before however I toasted all four in a millisecond with bad pre amp I installed before checking it on the workbench, totally my fault.. so I ordered four more. You would not believe how helpful and professional the folk at Polk Audio Tech. support can be unless you call them ! The number is: 1-800-377-7655. To order the RDO tweeter of your choice press the button for Technical support. I spoke with Gary he was great and I would like to thank him here and now...Thanks Gary, I love them. 
The box they came in.
Plenty of shipping material inside.
All four in separate boxes.
Once again, boxed up well.
Hey, there is the prize !
Back side. Notice something is not there ?
What terminal is the positive ? Look closely..Its marked red.
The other side..negative is silver, no paint or marking.
I take a red marker and mark the positive all over back and front .
See, I also etch a mark with a small screwdriver on each side. +
And negative.
Here they are ready to install. I replaced the stock jumpers today as well. You can see those in the image.
Image of the old SL-2000 tweeters
Screws out.
Recall when I said something was missing ? Its not missing, it is on your old tweeters !
That gasket on the old SL-2000, take it off and put it on your new tweeters ! Don't forget that one ! I re use the old gasket as long as it is still in good condition. F1Nut recommends re use, good enough for him, good enough for me.
New tweets installed...
The old tweeters fit great in the new boxes for storage or mailing.
I use this hand made tool to make sure both tweeters work..Very Low Volume...You can make one too...Use a paper towel roll..L0L!
So now, go order yourself a set ! Tell them you are a Club Polk member (if you are) and get a di$count . Feel free to ask me any questions you may have. As I am still a NooB I cant answer em all, but if I don't know you can bet there is someone here who can !
The box they came in.
Plenty of shipping material inside.
All four in separate boxes.
Once again, boxed up well.
Hey, there is the prize !
Back side. Notice something is not there ?
What terminal is the positive ? Look closely..Its marked red.
The other side..negative is silver, no paint or marking.
I take a red marker and mark the positive all over back and front .
See, I also etch a mark with a small screwdriver on each side. +
And negative.
Here they are ready to install. I replaced the stock jumpers today as well. You can see those in the image.
Image of the old SL-2000 tweeters
Screws out.
Recall when I said something was missing ? Its not missing, it is on your old tweeters !
That gasket on the old SL-2000, take it off and put it on your new tweeters ! Don't forget that one ! I re use the old gasket as long as it is still in good condition. F1Nut recommends re use, good enough for him, good enough for me.
New tweets installed...
The old tweeters fit great in the new boxes for storage or mailing.
I use this hand made tool to make sure both tweeters work..Very Low Volume...You can make one too...Use a paper towel roll..L0L!
So now, go order yourself a set ! Tell them you are a Club Polk member (if you are) and get a di$count . Feel free to ask me any questions you may have. As I am still a NooB I cant answer em all, but if I don't know you can bet there is someone here who can !
Comments
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How many speaker companies still support their 40 year old design? And encourage owners to better that design?
Just one. -
I spoke with Gary he was great and I would like to thank him here and now...
I dealt with Gary recently and he was excellent. -
The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.
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"designed by John Crisco" Thanks John Crisco and "lots of talented help" as well as you Kenneth (for the history, always good to know that). These RDO-0194's sound fine in the system !
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How many speaker companies still support their 40 year old design? And encourage owners to better that design?
Just one.
They are awesome ! -
Five years ago when I replaced my eight on the SDA's as my first upgrade. They were $50 x 8 = $400 with free shipping from Polk for being a forum member. All eight of the old tweeters still worked. So I put them in those nice boxes and sold them on eBay for around $25 each. So that upgrade only set me back $150. Peace. DMIT Magnum MH-750, Monster HTS 5100MKII, Sony 77" Class - A80CJ Series - 4K UHD OLED,PS4, Def Tech 15” sub,LSIM 706c, Sunfire Signature Grand 425 x 4,Parasound hca 120, LSiM 702 x 4, Oppo 103D, SDA SRS 1.2, Pioneer Elite SC63 , Pioneer Elite BDP-05 “Why did you get married if you wanted big speakers?”
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KennethSwauger wrote: »The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.
See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O).
afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
KennethSwauger wrote: »The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.
See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O).
My mistake has been in hyphen placement: I've been typing RD0-198. Hopefully Polk police don't come by to pick up my collection as punishment!Jay
SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
My OCD is kicking in, I can't stand the look of the SHCS and Wood Screws mixed is killing me!!!
What is going on with that? You need Tweeter brackets..Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
AgreedPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
My OCD is kicking in, I can't stand the look of the SHCS and Wood Screws mixed is killing me!!!
What is going on with that? You need Tweeter brackets..
They are SDA-SRS 2 speakers and there is a solid cabinet support behind there so putting in the SHCS and hurricane nut was impossible. I hated that too. Only the top of the bottom tweeter is that way. Perhaps Tweeter brackets would work ? I really don't see how. However If so, where do I get those ? Thats why I like to post here, I get to learn cool stuff. -
KennethSwauger wrote: »The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.
See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O).
I am dyslexic it seems, even though @KennethSwauger let me know the correct number I am still typing it wrong....so, I try again here...RD-0194
BTW, came back here to see if someone can answer about those tweeter brackets.. -
The brackets are made by Larry, ask him if he has any he could sell or post a WTB thread.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Thanks @Nightfall .
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Great, thank you for sharing this information. I have a beginner question - can you hear a difference using the new tweeters?
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Yes, to my ear they are softer for lack of a better word. They do not hurt my ears like the others did in these speakers. The sibiliance toned almost completely down. I try and use them on all my vintage Polks.
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I wish swapping the ‘0194s for 690s* were so brainless for precisely the same** reason**.Yes, to my ear they are softer for lack of a better word. They do not hurt my ears like the others did in these speakers. The sibiliance** toned almost completely down. I try and use them on all my vintage Polks.
* RTi A series tweeter
Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
I replaced the SL-2000's in my Monitor 10B's tonight and notice an immediate improvement with the RD-0194's. I'm sure they will sound even better once properly broken in. Cheers!
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Welcome to Club Polk @ItGos211 . There are plenty of knowledgeable folks on this forum that can help you on your path to upgrading your 10Bs.2ch rig: Speakers: Magnepan LRS w/Magna Riser stands Preamplifier: Parasound P5 Amplifier: Parasound A23 CDP: Pioneer DV-563A Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp)
Standby: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods -
Do the those bezels come off (easy)?Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
The bezel is part of the tweet and I don't think you would want to take it offDo the those bezels come off (easy)?
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The bezel will come off easily by removing the 4 screws around the dome.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Just got my SDA 1C and thinking about replacing the tweeters. Do you have to solder?
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Nope. Not if you get the RD 0194's
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Nope. Not if you get the RD 0194's
RDO-194 or not there is no soldering unless you have very early monitor speakers then yes.
SDA1c nope fast on's or quick connects choose your verbage pull off push on. Look for the red and that will be positive side Black to red(positive) white to negative -
Hello All, I just came into a pair of near mint 10Bs. I glued the magnets before transporting them and now I would like to perform the tweeter and crossover upgrades, but I would prefer not to spend a ton on audiophile capacitors. The RD-0194 tweeters are still available from Polk, so I will order a pair of those. I need some direction on the caps and resistors. What do you all recommend? I've been reading a lot of old threads and just recently joined the forum.
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I am about to try some oil run capacitors but I am strange and like to experiment. Try typing Club Polk then your monitor series number in a Google search and there should be 100's of recommendations. Sonicap being favored.
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Can't go wrong with Clarity PX. Good entry level caps that won't break the bank. Mills 10-12 watt resistors to replace the sandcast 5 watt originals. If there's a Polyswitch, you'll want to replace it with a .5 ohm resistor as wellHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »Can't go wrong with Clarity PX. Good entry level caps that won't break the bank. Mills 10-12 watt resistors to replace the sandcast 5 watt originals. If there's a Polyswitch, you'll want to replace it with a .5 ohm resistor as well
I have also used those Clarity caps , the PX and I really like those. In fact I am using them in my SDA speakers... -
@VT88, @westmassguy:
What do you “like” about the CC PX* caps. Please be specific. I realize I ask a tough question. Use comparisons if that helps.
* no secret we have better choices at much higher $s
I used 68uf as DC blocking caps in my LCR* ** and my only comparison are the Polk originals. My objective was neutrality. I believed 68uf has zero affect above 1-1.5Khz.
*my sig may answer some questions
** I plan to use same in my surrounds when I get to it
Thanks TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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