RDO-194 Install/Swap Simple !

This is a write up for the guy or gal that was like me when I got my first set of really nice speakers and really did not know what to do to upgrade them. New Capacitors ? New resistors ? Wiring ? Binding posts ? Where do I start. The good folks here a Club Polk walked me thru many a trial as I restored a few sets of SDA speakers and I wanted to share how simple a swap from an SL-2000 tweeter to a RDO-194 tweeter upgrade can be. I was told that this can be one of the best starting points and I agree. I had The RDO tweeters installed in these speakers before however I toasted all four in a millisecond with bad pre amp I installed before checking it on the workbench, totally my fault.. so I ordered four more. You would not believe how helpful and professional the folk at Polk Audio Tech. support can be unless you call them ! The number is: 1-800-377-7655. To order the RDO tweeter of your choice press the button for Technical support. I spoke with Gary he was great and I would like to thank him here and now...Thanks Gary, I love them. 20170331_145341_zpsnuog3nlf.jpg
The box they came in.
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Plenty of shipping material inside.
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All four in separate boxes.
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Once again, boxed up well.
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Hey, there is the prize !
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Back side. Notice something is not there ?
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What terminal is the positive ? Look closely..Its marked red.
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The other side..negative is silver, no paint or marking.
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I take a red marker and mark the positive all over back and front .
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See, I also etch a mark with a small screwdriver on each side. +
20170331_145858_zpsdfmnjo4j.jpg And negative.
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Here they are ready to install. I replaced the stock jumpers today as well. You can see those in the image.
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Image of the old SL-2000 tweeters
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Screws out.
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Recall when I said something was missing ? Its not missing, it is on your old tweeters !
That gasket on the old SL-2000, take it off and put it on your new tweeters ! Don't forget that one ! I re use the old gasket as long as it is still in good condition. F1Nut recommends re use, good enough for him, good enough for me.
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New tweets installed...
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The old tweeters fit great in the new boxes for storage or mailing.
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I use this hand made tool to make sure both tweeters work..Very Low Volume...You can make one too...Use a paper towel roll..L0L!

So now, go order yourself a set ! Tell them you are a Club Polk member (if you are) and get a di$count . Feel free to ask me any questions you may have. As I am still a NooB I cant answer em all, but if I don't know you can bet there is someone here who can !
















Comments

  • kevinkokevinko Posts: 157
    VSAT88 wrote: »
    I spoke with Gary he was great and I would like to thank him here and now...

    I dealt with Gary recently and he was excellent.
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    "designed by John Crisco" Thanks John Crisco and "lots of talented help" as well as you Kenneth (for the history, always good to know that). These RDO-0194's sound fine in the system !
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    lightman1 wrote: »
    How many speaker companies still support their 40 year old design? And encourage owners to better that design?
    Just one.

    They are awesome !
  • DabutcherDabutcher Posts: 2,099
    Five years ago when I replaced my eight on the SDA's as my first upgrade. They were $50 x 8 = $400 with free shipping from Polk for being a forum member. All eight of the old tweeters still worked. So I put them in those nice boxes and sold them on eBay for around $25 each. So that upgrade only set me back $150. Peace. D
    MIT Magnum MH-750, Monster HTS 5100MKII, Mitsubishi rear projection 73, PS4, PSW505 , Sunfire Signature Grand 425 x 4,Parasound hca 120, RTi12, FXiA6, CSiA6, SDA SRS 1.2, Pioneer Elite SC63 , Pioneer Elite BDP-05



    “Why did you get married if you wanted big speakers?”
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 8,201
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • agfrostagfrost Posts: 2,269
    Nightfall wrote: »
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)

    My mistake has been in hyphen placement: I've been typing RD0-198. Hopefully Polk police don't come by to pick up my collection as punishment!
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Marantz DV-9500 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
  • Toolfan66Toolfan66 Posts: 14,248
    My OCD is kicking in, I can't stand the look of the SHCS and Wood Screws mixed is killing me!!!

    What is going on with that? You need Tweeter brackets..
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,670
    Agreed
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    edited April 2017
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    My OCD is kicking in, I can't stand the look of the SHCS and Wood Screws mixed is killing me!!!

    What is going on with that? You need Tweeter brackets..

    They are SDA-SRS 2 speakers and there is a solid cabinet support behind there so putting in the SHCS and hurricane nut was impossible. I hated that too. Only the top of the bottom tweeter is that way. Perhaps Tweeter brackets would work ? I really don't see how. However If so, where do I get those ? Thats why I like to post here, I get to learn cool stuff.
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    edited April 2017
    Nightfall wrote: »
    The tweeter part number is actually: RD-0194 designed by John Crisco who also designed the RD-0198 and the iSonic and Polk's HD tuner (with lots of talented help). Just for historical accuracy.

    See you guys, it's RD-0194 (zero) not RDO-194 (letter O). o:)

    I am dyslexic it seems, even though @KennethSwauger let me know the correct number I am still typing it wrong....so, I try again here...RD-0194

    BTW, came back here to see if someone can answer about those tweeter brackets..
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 8,201
    The brackets are made by Larry, ask him if he has any he could sell or post a WTB thread.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • Great, thank you for sharing this information. I have a beginner question - can you hear a difference using the new tweeters?
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    Yes, to my ear they are softer for lack of a better word. They do not hurt my ears like the others did in these speakers. The sibiliance toned almost completely down. I try and use them on all my vintage Polks.
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,233
    edited July 2018
    VSAT88 wrote: »
    Yes, to my ear they are softer for lack of a better word. They do not hurt my ears like the others did in these speakers. The sibiliance** toned almost completely down. I try and use them on all my vintage Polks.
    I wish swapping the ‘0194s for 690s* were so brainless for precisely the same** reason**.
    * RTi A series tweeter

    Tony

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: 1 Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3*
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
    *Bi-amped by years end
  • HzTweakerHzTweaker Posts: 534
    Welcome to Club Polk @ItGos211 . There are plenty of knowledgeable folks on this forum that can help you on your path to upgrading your 10Bs.
    2ch rig:
    Speakers: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods
    Preamplifier: Parasound P5
    Amplifier: Vincent SP-331
    CDP: Denon 1520
    Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB
    Benched: Parasound A23
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,233
    Do the those bezels come off (easy)?
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: 1 Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3*
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
    *Bi-amped by years end
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    The bezel is part of the tweet and I don't think you would want to take it off
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    Do the those bezels come off (easy)?

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,670
    The bezel will come off easily by removing the 4 screws around the dome.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Just got my SDA 1C and thinking about replacing the tweeters. Do you have to solder?
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    Nope. Not if you get the RD 0194's
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,303
    edited August 26
    VSAT88 wrote: »
    Nope. Not if you get the RD 0194's

    RDO-194 or not there is no soldering unless you have very early monitor speakers then yes.

    SDA1c nope fast on's or quick connects choose your verbage pull off push on. Look for the red and that will be positive side Black to red(positive) white to negative
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