Simple sda 2b tl upgrade question

2

Comments

  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,420
    I've blown 2 RDO 194's listening to Steve Miller Band on songs with heavy distorted guitar riffs. I don't think the 194's are built as well as the 198's because I rarely hear of anyone here having issues with them.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    I think you should examine why you blew a new tweeter before doing anything else.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,420
    I don't know Jesse. I had my amps tested for DC current but other than that not sure what else could have caused it. Haven't had an issue since with the replacements.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    edited July 2019
    audioluvr wrote: »
    I don't know Jesse. I had my amps tested for DC current but other than that not sure what else could have caused it. Haven't had an issue since with the replacements.

    It seems I was writing my comment while you were posting yours as mine was directed at the other guy with a blown tweeter. Anyway, I can't imagine the build quality between the 194 and 198 is different, but what do I know.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    1. Can speaker poping take out a tweeter when turning the preamp on and off?

    2. I just purchased a gimpod board and on his site he lists a 2.7 resistor but the closest i see in the mra-12 section is 2,3,and 2.7k will any of those work?
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    Are you following this:

    ON: source/preamp/amp; OFF: amp/preamp/source.
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    edited July 2019
    No... no i'm not. I had been told in the past to turn the amp on first then the pre amp otherwise it could pop a tube. Is this incorrect?

    turn off has been pre then amp
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    You still want to follow above. If you're running a tube pre, when turning it on then let the tubes fully stabilize
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    Ok thanks, I will follow your advice.

    Any advice on the resistors?
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    Mills
    Replace in both speakers
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    edited July 2019
    Self- Delete: answered my question with a little searching
  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    Yesterday I was getting confused with buying the resistors because I didn't know the difference between Mills & the other version of Mills. I emailed Sonic Craft about it and they gave me a reply I thought I would post that reply, just in case if anybody else got confused.

    "All our Mills are true "NOS" Mills (made in the USA). Mills was purchased by Vishay Americas. They moved production to Mexico. The product was unusable to "us" the first couple of years. Vishay noticed that we were a top 3 purchaser from Mills. They wondered why we had not placed an order (3+ years into their ownership). They asked, and I told them...

    They said they would do what it took to earn our business. The parts that we have purchased from them are 99.8% as good sonically, and over a 100% in every other category:"
  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,226
    +2^. Especially now that PA / Merger has went 100% into action.
  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    I'm about to install my new crossover using gimpod board and I noticed they noticed something. The negative and positive on the P1 input is reverse from the P1 in put on the original board. Do I need to rewire the harness coming from my speaker to match this or is this the way it should be?

    6h7amklbj0hg.jpg
    4hv51f1lmo66.jpg
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    I believe that is a misprint on the board, but let's ask @westmassguy to check it out.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Tony's @gimpod boards are correct. Some OEM boards were apparently misprinted.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Old and New. The date on the OEM board is 4/11/90. Maybe the earlier boards were misprinted.


    euce9l8q47tn.jpg




    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    hmmm weird, maybe its because I have a transitional 2b. IE early crossover printing?
  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    So ya i followed the wires. Definently a miss print on the original board.
  • windstriker
    windstriker Posts: 136
    edited July 2019
    Update finished the crossover and ive started burning them in. So far so good.

    Question i read on another post somewhere that transitional 2bs cant take the dreadnaught mod. Is this true? If so y? I wasnt planing on doing it but since ive come this far i thought i might eventualy do it.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    You would need to connect the large blade post to the negative binding post.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    edited January 2020
    Dear all, its been a couple of year since i own a pair of 10A and SDA 2B. I have done the recapped on my 10A previously and it sounds really great. Currently i am planning to do the SDA 2B TL mod. Would like to get any advice from all, and hopefully i am in the correct thread... :smile:

    Below are the parts i plan to purchase:
    A pair of Gimpod boards
    For High pass:
    2 x 2.7 Ohm Vishay Mills MRA-12
    2 x Gen I Sonicap 12 uF 200VDC
    2 x Gen I Sonicap 5.8 uF 200VDC
    2 x 0.22 Ohm Vishay Mills MRA-12
    For Low pass:
    2 x Clarity PX 20uf
    2 x Clarity PX 40uf

    I really wanted to go with all Sonicap, but is way over my budget.... :'(

    Any other recommendation for other Low pass cap or should i stick with Dayton cap just like my 10A crossover recapped?
    Anyway, i have attached some picts on my 10A(recapped) and 2Bs

    My 10A crossover recapped.
    oeiep0lijn07.jpg
    8b9dras1yp9d.jpg
    dyggor7xg4we.jpg
    nrxxgyhbr37f.jpg

    Left 2Bs speaker. Notice the outboard driver is 6511 and inboard driver is 6503. Are they correct?
    0bkr8ivqvjuj.jpg
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    wo90h3fkka13.jpg
    day2pi6vx8rs.jpg
    fli3evn8cead.jpg


    Right 2Bs speaker. Notice the outboard driver is 6511 and inboard driver is 6503. Are they correct?
    65hah6eljq56.jpg
    fz86qkclg72g.jpg
    9haitzdd2cdg.jpg
    lvshd77zm5mj.jpg
    ajgtwdexa1tw.jpg



  • Are you plan on doing any other mods? Hnut dynamat blackhole ect ect?
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    @keck you should start your own thread. The outer dimensional drivers are MW6511s, 4 ohm.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Are you plan on doing any other mods? Hnut dynamat blackhole ect ect?

    Hi, just plan on doing crossover mod to tl
    @keck you should start your own thread. The outer dimensional drivers are MW6511s, 4 ohm.

    Thanks West, i will start another thread for discussion 😄
  • tonyp063
    tonyp063 Posts: 1,044
    Heat dissipation.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    Cheap insurance for a few pennies more.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,136
    Less heat induced noise
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
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    Crown D150 amp
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