Polk Signature Series Official Discussion

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Comments

  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    S30 is the better speaker for center channel if you have the room.

    A set of MC60 would work well for ATMOS speakers

    Yes you can wall mount the S20 with the bracket. What makes stands better is you can move the speaker for best placement.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    We are renovating so we will have a new wall to hang the TV on and can place TV and speakers anywhere on it but are you suggesting stands to pull speakers out further or just that stands have much more flexibility for placement ?

    If I do wall mounts do speakers need to come out from wall a minimum for example 4 or 6 inches?

    S10s fine for rear surrround speakers?
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    jdavid wrote: »
    Thanks.

    What is your view of the difference in performance on wall mounting with a bracket v stands on the front left and right speakers? If mounted with brackets do speakers need to be a minimum distance out from back wall whether S15 or 20?
    ( Plan is to have them and S30 all at same tweeter height at ear level on assumption that is best?) How about the Wali dual side bracket for large speakers holding up to 55 pounds or what ever professional installer suggests?

    In the room I described what are your thoughts on having two Polk MC 60 for Atmos in ceiling speakers- do you think room ( 8 x15 with 7 and 1/2 foot ceiling) just too small?

    Good stands really do sound better. I remember moving from metal plants stands to wooden stands to good solid steel stands filled with sand. I was using the Polk rt7 which are large monitors. I was amazed at the difference in bass tightness and overall separation: I really couldn’t believe stands alone could make that difference.

    However, I completely understand the SAF and just general living constraints. If you have to mount them get the 20s and these: https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Universal-Clamping-Bookshelf-Mounting/dp/B01N2TM8BQ/ref=asc_df_B01N2TM8BQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o12&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13620429792448683996&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026867&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-319814671128&psc=1
    The point of the power port is that you can get away with closer wall placement.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    Assume these have been used by people for S20 although they say for full clamp contact minimum width 9 inches and 20s are 8.5 ?

    If I use stands what do you suggest?

    Appreciate your advice!
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    edited October 2019
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    Very helpful.

    I am sure we can have contractor build a shelf on the new wall for the front and left speakers —-would you say that both stands and the wall mounts you suggest are better than a shelf for getting the best sound?
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    jdavid wrote: »
    Very helpful.

    I am sure we can have contractor build a shelf on the new wall for the front and left speakers —-would you say that both stands and the wall mounts you suggest are better than a shelf for getting the best sound?

    Ideally you want all sides exposed for the widest and deepest soundstage. But for the last 9 years I have had my main bookies on builtins flanking the sides of the tv. not ideal but still very enjoyable. Sometimes ya gotta make due!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    Thanks. Well I may be able to have an open shelf built if so where do you rank that compared to mounting - not as good I assume? So therefor first stands, second mounting and out from wall, and last a flat shelf underneath??

    I will see what spouse says on stands .........
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    edited October 2019
    @rooftop59 covered it.

    I find surrounds wall mounted to be ok. Main speakers I find best to have the front L/C/R on an even line at least a foot away from the wall.

    But the there is the WAF/SAF. Get away with as much as you can, just don't push it or you might wind up with cubes.

    If your only going with one set of ATMOS in-ceiling speakers mount them closer to the listening position .
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    Very interesting comment—-Could I really do two sets - four ceiling Atmos speakers in my room 8 by 15 with 7 and 1/2 foot ceiling? (Was considering Denon 3600H - will check if that would handle that). But would four ceiling Atmos work well?
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    Denon will do it!
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    Yes the 3600H will power 9 speakers but that is a lot of speakers for an AVR. 7 speakers is pushing it for that AVR. An amp would be needed like Outlaw Audio 5000, Monolith 5 or Emotiva XPA5. Now the might blow up the budget. Drive the fronts and surrounds with the amp and use the AVR for ATMOS. Also the room @ 8X15 might get a little crammed with speakers.

    Here is how I would set it up. Remember this is just my opinion.

    S20 on stands S30 center. S15 wall mounted for surrounds 1 set of MC60 mounted 1/2 way between the front speakers and listening position.

    You sub choice is good but the speedwoofer is made more for music than movies. An HSU VTF-2 or SVS PB1000/2000 would be a lot better and dig deeper, a lot deeper.


    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • patstock11
    patstock11 Posts: 14
    edited October 2019
    Been lurking in this site for a while. I currently have 2 s55s up front, s30 center, 2 s15s for surrounds. And recently upgraded to an svs pb1000 for my 5.1 modest home theater in my man cave. Simple question, it's all hooked up to a Yamaha v379 avr, and at this point I feel like this unit is the weak point in my setup. The system sounds good with Blu rays but I do have to crank it up. And watching TV it lacks a ton. Am I crazy, would I notice significant improvements with a better avr (higher wattage)? If I wanted to upgrade my receiver I'm basically looking for recommendations in the $500-750 range....is that too little? Some help would really be appreciated ...
  • patstock11
    patstock11 Posts: 14
    edited October 2019
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    Yes I agree get the Denon, if you can swing it the 4000 series rocks. Marantz 60XX would work too.

    That little Yamaha @ 16lb just doesn't have the power supply.

    Get some good power on them there speakers. And please put a small piece of foam under the front of the S30, tilt it up a tad. Then save up for a 2nd PB1000 :)
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    In a room of my size , 8x15, would two rsl10s be better than one svs pb 1000 or one hsu vtf-2 for home theatre, realizing the expense difference . The wireless function and small size of rsl are attractive. I realize the price comparison is unfair but would find a bigger Svs or hsu too large physically.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    edited October 2019
    Thing about the rsl10s is they don't dig as deep as an HSU or SVS ported sub. The RSL10 are more of a musical sub for playing above 30hz. A VTF2 will dig deep down to 16hz. For movies that is what you want deep bass.

    A VTF2 @ $600 to the door is real hard to beat. Up the budget to $900 for a VTF3 and thank me later.

    I'd take the HSU subs over the SVS till the PB3000
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Anyone have experience with refurbs from Amazon? Through world wide stereo....looking at a Denon 4500
  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    I’ve bought from W W Stereo, and was very satisfied.
  • rpf65 wrote: »
    I’ve bought from W W Stereo, and was very satisfied.
    Thanks alot :)
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    Thanks. Will have to deal with WAF on subs . Just so I know what is out there is there anything smaller than vtf2 ( or smaller than PB 1000) you like for HT better than rsl 10s that is deeper than the rsl?
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    edited October 2019
    jdavid wrote: »
    Thanks. Will have to deal with WAF on subs . Just so I know what is out there is there anything smaller than vtf2 ( or smaller than PB 1000) you like for HT better than rsl 10s that is deeper than the rsl?

    The SVS SB2000 will get you awfully close extension wise assuming you have some room gain which most do, it just won’t get you nearly as much output/slam that a big ported sub will. Now of course, I’m that room I think you will be pretty amazed at the SB2000...

    Is a cylinder an option? Less floor space but it does stand out lol. The PC2000 is probably the closest to the vtf2 and might even rival the output/extension of the vtf3.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,926
    mrloren wrote: »
    Thing about the rsl10s is they don't dig as deep as an HSU or SVS ported sub. The RSL10 are more of a musical sub for playing above 30hz. A VTF2 will dig deep down to 16hz. For movies that is what you want deep bass.

    A VTF2 @ $600 to the door is real hard to beat. Up the budget to $900 for a VTF3 and thank me later.

    I'd take the HSU subs over the SVS till the PB3000

    hmm... still haven't ever seen my subwoofer dig. Must have the wrong kind.
    Not punchy either -- well, maybe, if it's been drinking...

    :#
  • Welp, been a nice run with my S20s and S30, but after the finish on them started bubbling and Polk never responded to any of my emails, I got rid of them and upgraded to QAcoustics 3020i and 3090ci.
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    Interesting . Could pc2000 be placed in a corner and could it be in any any corner or just in corner front with front speakers?
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    And could it even be in a corner behind a couch used for seating while viewing so it is on opposite corner from front speakers?
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    jdavid wrote: »
    And could it even be in a corner behind a couch used for seating while viewing so it is on opposite corner from front speakers?

    For HT LFE that’s fine, in fact perhaps even preferable since you’ll get more impact that way. However, you will want to keep the crossover pretty low otherwise it will be very noticeable with music. 80hz at the highest but preferable 50-60 which you could do with the s20s.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • jdavid
    jdavid Posts: 46
    And I assume that the PC2000 is not too much for my 8x 15 room ( which does have an opening on one side, an open archway to living room) with sig 30 center and 20 left and right, and 10 or 15 surrounds, and possible ceiling MC60 atmos (but not sure if room too small).
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    jdavid wrote: »
    And I assume that the PC2000 is not too much for my 8x 15 room ( which does have an opening on one side, an open archway to living room) with sig 30 center and 20 left and right, and 10 or 15 surrounds, and possible ceiling MC60 atmos (but not sure if room too small).

    SVS has really good CS. Call them and ask; they won't oversell you.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer